JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[den110]

The clone is an EFI ES-2000,  but it's not a clone really, the spectro is an actual I1Pro2 only the label stuck on it is different.

Do you have a link to get one for a few hundred dollars?  So far a search revealed it costs over 1k.

[Jwb2]

Unintentionally raising my black floor:

Hello, I recently did a gamma 2.2 autocal (spyder x) and color autocal (ipro 2) on my JVC rs2000.  

Afterwards, I checked my results with chromapure/id3pro and it tracked gamma 2.2 perfectly with no adjustments needed.  Same with the color, no adjustments needed.

However, now I have to set my black level/brightness to -4 (which looks great after I adjust the brightness level). Has anyone else had this happen?  Just wondering if its normal that the gamma autocal can sometimes cause the black floor to be raised, or maybe I messed up somewhere along the way?  

Any thoughts/feedback would be appreciated!

[jj-34]

Do you have a link to get one for a few hundred dollars?  So far a search revealed it costs over 1k.

As far as I know they are no longer available new, only 2nd hand, there are a few on the US bay.
You may also look for the previous model ES-1000 same as the x-rite I1 Pro1  that is also supported by autocal ( See page 1).

[Manni]

Unintentionally raising my black floor:

Hello, I recently did a gamma 2.2 autocal (spyder x) and color autocal (ipro 2) on my JVC rs2000. 

Afterwards, I checked my results with chromapure/id3pro and it tracked gamma 2.2 perfectly with no adjustments needed.  Same with the color, no adjustments needed.

However, now I have to set my black level/brightness to -4 (which looks great after I adjust the brightness level). Has anyone else had this happen?  Just wondering if its normal that the gamma autocal can sometimes cause the black floor to be raised, or maybe I messed up somewhere along the way? 

Any thoughts/feedback would be appreciated!

Gamma calibration shouldn't have any impact on the black floor, as it doesn't touch black or white, only in between.

How do you set your black level? Do you barely see level 17? If you raise brightness to -3 or -2, do you see the difference when using hide / no hide?

Brightness at -4 doesn't sound wrong through. I usually need -2 or -3 to set black properly, and there is unit to unit variation, so I wouldn't worry about that.

[Jwb2]

Gamma calibration shouldn't have any impact on the black floor, as it doesn't touch black or white, only in between.

How do you set your black level? Do you barely see level 17? If you raise brightness to -3 or -2, do you see the difference when using hide / no hide?

Brightness at -4 doesn't sound wrong through. I usually need -2 or -3 to set black properly, and there is unit to unit variation, so I wouldn't worry about that.

Thank you Manni!  I was using the brightness pattern on my disney WOW disc.  But I am going to read up on how you do it with the hide function too.  

[SirMaster]

Doesn't need to be a clone even.

I got my i1Pro2 for $390 on eBay.  Was considered a "used" item.

It looked completely untouched and unused.  Not a scuff or speck of dust or anything on it.  Still had the silica gel pack in there and the sticker over the USB port.

[jj-34]

Thank you Manni!  I was using the brightness pattern on my disney WOW disc.  But I am going to read up on how you do it with the hide function too. 

Maybe a better way to do it is to use the inbuild masks set to their maximum extent, this gives you a real time reference area as opposed to the hide where it takes several seconds to switch thus loosing the reference.

[David Vaughn]

Doesn't need to be a clone even.

I got my i1Pro2 for $390 on eBay.  Was considered a "used" item.

It looked completely untouched and unused.  Not a scuff or speck of dust or anything on it.  Still had the silica gel pack in there and the sticker over the USB port.

That's a screaming deal!

[jj-34]

Doesn't need to be a clone even.

I got my i1Pro2 for $390 on eBay.  Was considered a "used" item.

It looked completely untouched and unused.  Not a scuff or speck of dust or anything on it.  Still had the silica gel pack in there and the sticker over the USB port.

Even better if you are the lucky one, got mine brand new too as a shop shutdown clearance.

[SirMaster]

I waited about 2 months for my i1 Pro 2 deal to come around on eBay.

Just set eBay product alerts for i1 Pro 2 and EFI ES-2000 and be patient.

[CyberPaul]

No, unfortunately it's more complicated than that, as explained in the links already provided.

You have to create a custom color profile using the spreadsheet to compensate for the errors of the Spyder. Please follow the links that I provided a few posts back in the thread (they should also be linked to in the index in post 2). For Calman, please follow https://www.portrait.com/calman-calibration-software/. Calman is paid for, but you only need a version that would allow you to load Chad's spreadsheet (or my modified version).

Alternatively, you could only correct white, there is no need for a spreadsheet to do that, and you could use a free software like HCFR to achieve this, but it's not beginner stuff. Please let's keep the discussions on Calman and HFCR off the thread, at least until I (or someone else) posts here a method to correct the spyder.

I plan to do this at some point as ChadB's method has some limitations, but I don't have the time at the moment (or the inclination as the i1pro2 does a perfect job).

I would highly recommend to spend a few hundred on an i1pro2 clone, it's so much easier (and more accurate) than the spreadsheet method. I love Calman, and I highly recommend it, but I wouldn't buy it just for that.

EDIT: Also, you need a known-good meter to correct the Spyder. Which meter do you own that is more accurate than the Spyder and can be used to correct it?

I would add that the biggest limitation of ChadB’s method is that it can’t be applied in combination with DTM, because that mode does not allow you selecting a custom color profile. it is still helpful with usual static mapping and SDR though.

[den110]

I waited about 2 months for my i1 Pro 2 deal to come around on eBay.

Just set eBay product alerts for i1 Pro 2 and EFI ES-2000 and be patient.

thanks.  Will try that   Figured the EFI ES-2000 would be cheaper since it doesn't include the calibration software - which I won't use anyway with autocal.

[dcchan2]

I would add that the biggest limitation of ChadB’s method is that it can’t be applied in combination with DTM, because that mode does not allow you selecting a custom color profile. it is still helpful with usual static mapping and SDR though.

DTM is supposed to share the same calibration as HDR10 (if you select the same filter configuration), but unfortunately it has its own greyscale tracking errors which can't be corrected even with a good meter.

[CyberPaul]

DTM is supposed to share the same calibration as HDR10 (if you select the same filter configuration), but unfortunately it has its own greyscale tracking errors which can't be corrected even with a good meter.

The problem is not the greyscale. ChadB’s method is based on creating a custom color profile (nothing related to greys or gamma) to compensate the inaccuracy of autocal made with spyder x or spyder 5. But unfortunately DTM does not allow to select it.

[dcchan2]

I get your point.  However, even with an accurate meter (which would not require correction using ChadB's method), there is still the grey scale tracking problem which manifests itself as a tinted white/grey at some points on the grey scale range; what's worse is it's un-correctable with the current design.

ChadB's method won't help with this issue even if you could select a custom colour profile for Frame Adapt HDR.