JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[Manni]

OK !  I just forgot to disable the Win's control of the driver's signature, once disabled I've been able to load the ArgyllCMS driver, and now via the device manager I have a choice of 2 drivers : i1 Pro and Eye-One Pro (Argyll)  ! 

Yes, that's always been the case, but it still means swapping drivers manually.

More interesting is Dominic's suggestion to use a different USB port for each driver.

I'll try that next time I have to install DisplayCAL, but I'm not sure if it will work with a USB HUB. 

If it does, great. It would be nice to be able to swap between Argyll and Windows drivers almost seamlessly.

[dcchan2]

In theory, it shouldn't make any difference which one you do first. In practice, I think color first would be better, but I haven't confirmed this and that's one of the things I'd like to rule out in my upcoming V11/V12 comparison.

Yes, gamma autocal is performed separately on the three primary colors, as can be seen during the autocal process. Otherwise, the accuracy of the spyder on white/grey would be an issue and it doesn't seem to be the case.

The three gamma curves often droop independently, resulting in different colour temperature readings for different input levels.  The log summary reports two readings (at 50% and 100%), and the picture shows a cluster of 8 readings which can be quite far apart if gamma autocal has not been run.

If colour autocal uses only the 100% point then it makes no difference whether it's run first (since gamma autocal uses the 100% point as reference).  However, if colour autocal uses some sort of weighted average of the 8 points, then doing gamma first would work better.

[Manni]

The three gamma curves often droop independently, resulting in different colour temperature readings for different input levels.  The log summary reports two readings (at 50% and 100%), and the picture shows a cluster of 8 readings which can be quite far apart if gamma autocal has not been run.

If colour autocal uses only the 100% point then it makes no difference whether it's run first (since gamma autocal uses the 100% point as reference).  However, if colour autocal uses some sort of weighted average of the 8 points, then doing gamma first would work better.

It would make more sense to do gamma first as that's what the autocal does when you do a gamma+color autocal. It might be why I've never noticed a difference, I've almost always done gamma first with the iris fully open, then the various color autocals with the different iris positions (as and if needed).

I guess this would need to be tested to be sure, but it's fairly low on my priority list given that gamma then color works very well.

[Manni]

@LeFric

Please post in English, even if you use google translate, or post your questions in a Spanish forum

I can only reply in English.

As you're using a Spyder 5 with V11 (not a Spyder X with V12), you need to move the meter AWAY from the lens, so CLOSER to the screen, but still facing the lens, and in the axis (NOT off-axis).

This is how you get the icon of the meter in the box, not by moving the Spyder off-axis. The software clearly shows you that the meter is TOO CLOSE to the lens, so simply back away.

Hopefully this will allow you to get better results.

Let us know (but in English)

[LeFric]

Mistake...

[Manni]

I have replied in my post just above yours.

[LeFric]

I have replied in my post just above yours.

Mistake... 

[Manni]

I am using JVC AutoCAL 8 (v1.20)

Which model are you calibrating? Is it a 4K 2019 model?

[den110]

Unfortunately on my laptop that I use to run Autocal and HCFR I only have one 3.0 usb port that gives enough current to drive the I1Pro2, if I use the other 2.0 port the I1Pro2 does not pass the calibration step.
But I will give it another try to see if I can install both drivers concurently.
By the way I am running Windows 10 Home 1909, nothing newer as far as I know.

I have a Lenovo Yoga laptop which only has one USB port.  I guess I can use a lightning to USB adapter on one of the lightning ports.  I am also running Win10 Home 1909.

[jj-34]

Once the two drivers are installed, using the device manager it only takes a few steps to switch, and one does not need to switch that often really.  

[LeFric]

¿Qué modelo estás calibrando? ¿Es un modelo 4K 2019?

Mistake... 

[Manni]

JVC DLA-Z1

Sorry no idea how this one works, this thread is only for V11/V12 and the 2019 4K models. You should ask in the Z1 thread if my suggestion to move the Spyder back while keeping it on axis doesn't help and if no one else here can see what the issue is. It's a laser model and I never calibrated one or used V8, so I can't help.

[dcchan2]

Has anyone run autocal using the HDR10 Picture Mode and verified the results using independent software (HCFR, CalMAN etc)?

I restored my Init file to investigate an issue with Auto Iris, which brought back the blue gamma droop (manifesting as an increasing colour temperature as input level drops; see first attachment).  After running gamma autocal the After log shows the issue fixed (see second attachment), but the HCFR grey scale shows no improvement at all with the blue gamma droop.

I ended up re-running gamma autocal using the Natural and Cinema Picture Modes, and then the gamma droop got fixed for HDR10, with and without filter.

I had a similar issue with the e-shift models - some calibration results did not "stick".

[Manni]

Hi Dominic,

No I didn't experience this, but I never calibrate HDR10, I only calibrate User1 (Rec-709, BT1886, D65, low lamp, no filter, iris -12) and User2 (DCI-P3, 2.2, D65, low lamp, filter, iris open). This usually gets HDR10 fine (BT2020, PQ, D65, filter on, iris open).

I do plan to run some tests to investigate why some complain about DTM mode not being calibrated after calibrating HDR10, this might be connected. In my experience, DTM seems to be calibrated fine, but again I don't autocal HDR10 but User2.

I run some tests when I find the time and will report back.

[jj-34]

Hi Dominic,

No I didn't experience this, but I never calibrate HDR10, I only calibrate User1 (Rec-709, BT1886, D65, low lamp, no filter, iris -12) and User2 (DCI-P3, 2.2, D65, low lamp, filter, iris open). This usually gets HDR10 fine (BT2020, PQ, D65, filter on, iris open).

I do plan to run some tests to investigate why some complain about DTM mode not being calibrated after calibrating HDR10, this might be connected. In my experience, DTM seems to be calibrated fine, but again I don't autocal HDR10 but User2.

I run some tests when I find the time and will report back.

Hi Manni, I take it your user1 calibration as above is for SDR viewing and your user2 for HDR ?

Any reason to not calibrate Natural or HDR10 modes instead ?