See the post immediately above yours.
I’m not sure why you would trust your eyes more than the meter.
Mis-convergence should not cause an overall red tint. If misaligned, you may see some red fringing close up, but then the adjacent pixels will have a cyan cast due to the red deficiency. From a distance, the two will balance each other and not pose a red tint to the meter or to the viewer.
Hi Ashrama, have you check the convergence. An (Un)alignement of the red matrice may be. Let your projector warm 1/2 hour before check the convergence (and also before do an autocal).KRFrancis
Are there any sort of test patterns I could use to verify pinkish tinge Is or isn’t present...? I have the Ron Masciola patterns...Also I did receive a new screen this week and noticed the base coating was not as white as the previous same material so just wondering if that could be influencing my “feeling”...
The pre-cal is slightly too blue, and the post cal is slightly too red. Each on its own is negligible but apparently you were able to sense the 240K total difference.Note that the post cal result is closer to the curve as well, meaning it’s more accurate (closer to D65) even though both are about 100K away from 6500K.If you prefer less red, reduce the Red gain slightly and run another log, to get closer to the D65 target point (not just the 6500K reading).
Did an autocal on Thursday night and last night tightened things up with Calman with a C6 meter trained to an i1Pro2. I think things turned out pretty well. I forgot to do an "after" CEI, but I did do a color checker which turned out good.
Hi folks,What piece of software would be the next logical step beyond Autocal to really visually see adjustments etc...Calman, HCFR or something else? Is the Spyder X and I1Pro2 supported? Which would have an easier learning curve? Thanks