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JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

See the post immediately above yours.
Is there any particular reason after an Autocal that I would get a red push? Inaccurate meter? Meter positioning? Do u know if it happens often? BTW, on page 15 now of this thread...Slowly making my way thru it, not that I’m retaining it all but to see if others had similar issues.
« Last Edit: May 02, 2020, 11:09:58 AM by Asharma »

I’m not sure why you would trust your eyes more than the meter.

I’m not sure why you would trust your eyes more than the meter.
Good point man, good point...just “feels/looks” like I have a pink tinge that I’ve been calling red push...I’ll try modifying the red gain tonight by a couple tics and see how I “feel”...

Hi Ashrama, have you check the convergence. An (Un)alignement of the red matrice may be. Let your projector warm 1/2 hour before check the convergence (and also before do an autocal).
KR
Francis

Mis-convergence should not cause an overall red tint.  If misaligned, you may see some red fringing close up, but then the adjacent pixels will have a cyan cast due to the red deficiency.  From a distance, the two will balance each other and not pose a red tint to the meter or to the viewer.

Mis-convergence should not cause an overall red tint.  If misaligned, you may see some red fringing close up, but then the adjacent pixels will have a cyan cast due to the red deficiency.  From a distance, the two will balance each other and not pose a red tint to the meter or to the viewer.
Are there any sort of test patterns I could use to verify pinkish tinge Is or isn’t present...? I have the Ron Masciola patterns...Also I did receive a new screen this week and noticed the base coating was not as white as the previous same material so just wondering if that could be influencing my “feeling”...

Hi Ashrama, have you check the convergence. An (Un)alignement of the red matrice may be. Let your projector warm 1/2 hour before check the convergence (and also before do an autocal).
KR
Francis
Thank you, yes convergence seems to be fine...I do typically wait an hour before running an Autocal

Did an autocal on Thursday night and last night tightened things up with Calman with a C6 meter trained to an i1Pro2. I think things turned out pretty well. I forgot to do an "after" CEI, but I did do a color checker which turned out good. 
Blu-ray Reviewer / Technical Writer
Former writer for Sound & Vision Magazine

Are there any sort of test patterns I could use to verify pinkish tinge Is or isn’t present...? I have the Ron Masciola patterns...Also I did receive a new screen this week and noticed the base coating was not as white as the previous same material so just wondering if that could be influencing my “feeling”...
You can use any greyscale patterns.  You will also need some software to do the measurements. 

Any tint in the screen should have been corrected by Autocal since the meter measures off the screen. 

Just want to confirm if color calibration works similar to gamma calibration in regards to Picture modes...That is to say if I run color calibration for hdr10, the results will be applied to frame adapt HDR when in that mode...just confirming there is no need to setup a separate User1,2,3,4,5,6 picture mode for a color calibration if I want to have the color calibration applied to the default Frame Adapt picture mode...thanks

The pre-cal is slightly too blue, and the post cal is slightly too red.  Each on its own is negligible but apparently you were able to sense the 240K total difference.
Note that the post cal result is closer to the curve as well, meaning it’s more accurate (closer to D65) even though both are about 100K away from 6500K.
If you prefer less red, reduce the Red gain slightly and run another log, to get closer to the D65 target point (not just the 6500K reading).
Doing a bit of visual testing...I reduced red gain by 3 and it “feels/looks” better to my eyes...have not run a log yet...there are some scenes I feel I could back it off a few more ticks and be fine but -3 may be a good compromise for me...I’ll run a log and check the results against pre adjustment...

Edit: I can visually see during some of the pure white screen scenes in Lucy, there is a bit too much red in the pure white...when red gain is backed off a few tics it becomes more blue...with red gain at 0, definitely a faint pink color infecting the pure white...
« Last Edit: May 02, 2020, 08:11:23 PM by Asharma »

Did an autocal on Thursday night and last night tightened things up with Calman with a C6 meter trained to an i1Pro2. I think things turned out pretty well. I forgot to do an "after" CEI, but I did do a color checker which turned out good.
Just curious - do you see any 'real-world' differences following the Autocal, especially with reference to color?

I have done Gamma Autocal on mine, and it was pretty close to begin with.  So after, no obvious visible change.

I don't have the proper meter for a Color Autocal, and find myself wondering if it would be worth investing the funds to get one.  I have a fairly good eye for color balance, temperature, etc., from many years of semi-professional wildlife photography, and what I'm seeing looks spot on.  But that said, I'm also aware of how our visual system can 'adapt' and sometimes 'trick' our perceptions.  Hence the question.

It tightened things up a bit, but I wouldn't say it was a massive improvement. 
Blu-ray Reviewer / Technical Writer
Former writer for Sound & Vision Magazine

Hi folks,

What piece of software would be the next logical step beyond Autocal to really visually see adjustments etc...Calman, HCFR or something else? Is the Spyder X and I1Pro2 supported? Which would have an easier learning curve? Thanks

Jwb2

Hi folks,

What piece of software would be the next logical step beyond Autocal to really visually see adjustments etc...Calman, HCFR or something else? Is the Spyder X and I1Pro2 supported? Which would have an easier learning curve? Thanks
I use chromapure and id3pro to double check my autocal results.  I hardly ever have to make much of an adjustment in chromapure post auto cal, so not sure if Id say it makes much of a visually significant difference.

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