My Spyder X driver is different (and dated from 2006!) but it works, weirdly. I'm on Win 10 Pro x64 build 1903.However my Spyder 5 driver doesn't show up, and Autocal V11 still works, so go figure. [EDIT: see jmonier's post below, and let us know your OS version)]I would suggest to:Uninstall the Spyder X driverDisconnect the Spyder XUninstall the Datacolor software (if not already done)RebootInstall the Datacolor softwareWhen asked, connect the Spyder XOnce the driver is loaded, check it's the same as mineUninstall the Datacolor softwareRebootTry the Autocal V12Hopefully this will install the correct driver and you'll be on your way.
Hi,I solved finally...using another laptop. The only differences between the laptops and the process are:The windows version. Both Windows 10 64 bit. Laptop working: version 1803. Laptop not working: 14xx.In the laptop working, I never installed the datacolor software. In the previous one I first installed the software and then trying uninstalling or disabling it and never worked.So, one of the 2 reasons is causing the problem. I am prone to think that installing datacolor sotware for spyderX, does something in the system preventing Autocal to detect the spyderX, even you unistall the software later.And because the driver is automatically installed by windows 10 when you connect the spyderX, my advice is: DO NOT INSTALL DATACOLOR SOFTWARE. You do not need it and may cause problems with Autocal detecting the spyderX.Thanks Manni for your help. Now, let's calibrate.Mario.
Hi Manni and everybody else, I just found and registered to this forum now also ..... I confirm that it's not necessary to install Datacolor to use the SpyderX only for Autocal, I'd say it's even adviseable not too ( avoid having to disable autostart of Datacolor's background task ).JJ.
I'm disappointed with my i1Pro2 ... With CalMAN, LightSpace and ChromaPure it works correctly, but with AutoCAL it doesn't!He tells me again and again "Can not detect the sensor. Check again."Does it happen to any more? What solution do you have?
Please read the basic section and the FAQ before posting a question, as explained in the first post.The i1pro2 needs to be initialized before each autocal (just as you need to in Calman, Lightspace and Chromapure). This is explained in the basic section, in the preparation post.
"Meter(s) connection and positioningTo connect the meters, make sure that the Spyder5 (recommended for gamma calibration) has its cover off (it splits in two and you have to take the cap off to reveal the lens, that has to face the projector). If you're using the i1pro2 (recommended for color calibration), make sure that it lies on its calibration plate when you select it, and immediately press the calibration button on the i1pro2 in order to start a white calibration. If you fail to do so, the software will report after a few seconds that it can't find the meter."He had followed her to the letter and I can't. The other programs do NOT need you to press the i1Pro2 key ...I am blocked!!!!!
Significant brightness differences between some iris steps is normal.Gamma should be flat after autocal, but the power isn't exact. You often have to select 2.3 or 2.5 to get 2.4. That's normal.You should reset all your user settings and select a target of 2.2 during the autocal. That way the log will show more clearly if the autocal goes well or not, at least according to the Spyder X / Autocal. If you select any other target, the post cal line in the log isn't flat so there is no way to know how close you are. It doesn't make a significant difference if you select 2.4 afterwards, even less if you use a 3D LUT on top. If any user settings are applied (gamma, color temp), they are ignored during the autocal but enabled during the log, so it can also cause some head scratching.Overall it doesn't look like you're doing too bad. Make sure you've cleared all your user settings. Do a reset to factory defaults if necessary to be sure. As long as you run a gamma autocal with spyder X and an color autocal with the i1pro at the filter/lamp/iris setting you are using for each calibration and your user settings are reset, you should be fairly close.
Previous runs with 2.2 show a flat line after autocal. I'll stick to 2.2 in future and change it afterwards instead. It seems that changing just the iris by 1 position makes an unexpectedly (to me) large difference.At -10, it produces much too high gamma (>2.5) and a colour temperature which seems to be aiming at a target of around 6000K. It is consistent but seems quite wrong so dE is frequently >4. Whereas at -9, gamma comes out pretty much on target (hovers around 2.42) and there is a consistent colour temp at around 6400k with an average dE ~0.5 and a max of <1 as measured by a quick verification chart in displaycal.