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JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

My Spyder X driver is different (and dated from 2006!) but it works, weirdly. I'm on Win 10 Pro x64 build 1903.

However my Spyder 5 driver doesn't show up, and Autocal V11 still works, so go figure. [EDIT: see jmonier's post below, and let us know your OS version)]

I would suggest to:

  • Uninstall the Spyder X driver
  • Disconnect the Spyder X
  • Uninstall the Datacolor software (if not already done)
  • Reboot
  • Install the Datacolor software
  • When asked, connect the Spyder X
  • Once the driver is loaded, check it's the same as mine
  • Uninstall the Datacolor software
  • Reboot
  • Try the Autocal V12

Hopefully this will install the correct driver and you'll be on your way.
Hi,
I solved finally...using another laptop. The only differences between the laptops and the process are:
  • The windows version. Both Windows 10 64 bit. Laptop working: version 1803. Laptop not working: 14xx.
  • In the laptop working, I never installed the datacolor software. In the previous one I first installed the software and then trying uninstalling or disabling it and never worked.

So, one of the 2 reasons is causing the problem. I am prone to think that installing datacolor sotware for spyderX, does something in the system preventing Autocal to detect the spyderX, even you unistall the software later.

And because the driver is automatically installed by windows 10 when you connect the spyderX, my advice is: DO NOT INSTALL DATACOLOR SOFTWARE. You do not need it and may cause problems with Autocal detecting the spyderX.

Thanks Manni for your help.
Now, let's calibrate.

Mario.

Manni

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Hi,
I solved finally...using another laptop. The only differences between the laptops and the process are:
  • The windows version. Both Windows 10 64 bit. Laptop working: version 1803. Laptop not working: 14xx.
  • In the laptop working, I never installed the datacolor software. In the previous one I first installed the software and then trying uninstalling or disabling it and never worked.

So, one of the 2 reasons is causing the problem. I am prone to think that installing datacolor sotware for spyderX, does something in the system preventing Autocal to detect the spyderX, even you unistall the software later.

And because the driver is automatically installed by windows 10 when you connect the spyderX, my advice is: DO NOT INSTALL DATACOLOR SOFTWARE. You do not need it and may cause problems with Autocal detecting the spyderX.

Thanks Manni for your help.
Now, let's calibrate.

Mario.
Hi Mario,

Glad to hear it's working now. :)

No that can't be the reason, because I did install/uninstall the Datacolor software, and that didn't prevent the Windows driver from being found/loaded.

I think it's more likely the fact that you were using a very old Windows build.

Anyway it's good to know that we don't need to install/uninstall the Datacolor software on windows 8/10 the way we did on Windows 7. I'll update the instructions when I find a minute, but I don't think they hurt.

jj-34

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Hi Manni and everybody else, I just found and registered to this forum now also ..... 8)

I confirm that it's not necessary to install Datacolor to use the SpyderX only for Autocal, I'd say it's even adviseable not too ( avoid having to disable autostart of Datacolor's background task ).

JJ.

Manni

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Hi Manni and everybody else, I just found and registered to this forum now also ..... 8)

I confirm that it's not necessary to install Datacolor to use the SpyderX only for Autocal, I'd say it's even adviseable not too ( avoid having to disable autostart of Datacolor's background task ).

JJ.
Hi JJ, welcome!

There is no need to disable the background task if you uninstall the software as recommended in the basic section (which I recommend you read first).

I'll update the instructions when I find the time, but they don't hurt if you follow them :)


I'm disappointed with my i1Pro2 ... With CalMAN, LightSpace and ChromaPure it works correctly, but with AutoCAL it doesn't!
He tells me again and again "Can not detect the sensor. Check again."
Does it happen to any more? What solution do you have?


« Last Edit: October 22, 2019, 08:51:32 AM by LeFric »

Manni

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I'm disappointed with my i1Pro2 ... With CalMAN, LightSpace and ChromaPure it works correctly, but with AutoCAL it doesn't!
He tells me again and again "Can not detect the sensor. Check again."
Does it happen to any more? What solution do you have?
Please read the basic section and the FAQ before posting a question, as explained in the first post.

The i1pro2 needs to be initialized before each autocal (just as you need to in Calman, Lightspace and Chromapure). This is explained in the basic section, in the preparation post.
« Last Edit: October 22, 2019, 09:27:38 AM by Manni »

Please read the basic section and the FAQ before posting a question, as explained in the first post.

The i1pro2 needs to be initialized before each autocal (just as you need to in Calman, Lightspace and Chromapure). This is explained in the basic section, in the preparation post.

"Meter(s) connection and positioning
  • To connect the meters, make sure that the Spyder5 (recommended for gamma calibration) has its cover off (it splits in two and you have to take the cap off to reveal the lens, that has to face the projector). If you're using the i1pro2 (recommended for color calibration), make sure that it lies on its calibration plate when you select it, and immediately press the calibration button on the i1pro2 in order to start a white calibration. If you fail to do so, the software will report after a few seconds that it can't find the meter."


He had followed her to the letter and I can't. The other programs do NOT need you to press the i1Pro2 key ...

I am blocked!!!!!
« Last Edit: October 22, 2019, 05:14:12 PM by LeFric »

Manni

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"Meter(s) connection and positioning
  • To connect the meters, make sure that the Spyder5 (recommended for gamma calibration) has its cover off (it splits in two and you have to take the cap off to reveal the lens, that has to face the projector). If you're using the i1pro2 (recommended for color calibration), make sure that it lies on its calibration plate when you select it, and immediately press the calibration button on the i1pro2 in order to start a white calibration. If you fail to do so, the software will report after a few seconds that it can't find the meter."


He had followed her to the letter and I can't. The other programs do NOT need you to press the i1Pro2 key ...

I am blocked!!!!!
It is true that only Calman supports the physical button on the i1pro2, but they all require you to initialize the i1pro2 by putting it on its plate and either pressing the button on the i1pro2 (Calman) or by pressing a button to initialize the meter (Lightspace, etc). It's exactly the same here, except that the Autocal supports the i1pro2 physical button like Calman, and doesn't provide clear instructions regarding what to do.

As soon as you select the i1pro2 in the JVC Autocal, you have to press the button on the ip1ro2 (while it's on its plate), and keep it pressed for a few seconds. It should then display the pattern and the meter positioning frame (which doesn't work with the i1pro2, simply place it around 2 ft from the screen, pointing up towards the centre).

If you wait too long before selecting the i1pro2 , or if you don't keep the button pressed long enough, the i1pro2 will NOT be detected by the JVVC Autocal.

If that doesn't happen I have no idea why.

Maybe someone else can explain it better than I do.

I tried again, same setup as before using a spyderx and i1pro with gamma 2.4, iris -10 and reset the various settings before starting

I've attached pics from the jvc app and then I ran a quick gamma check in HCFR which shows an actual gamma of 2.5 and it seems too much red.

Curiously the same quick gamma check for the DCI-P3 run also shows gamma 0.1 too high at approx 2.3 albeit that one has a much tighter RGB balance (makes me think I'm doing something wrong when verifying though I don't know what)
« Last Edit: October 22, 2019, 06:42:50 PM by 3ll3d00d »

I had a hunch about the light levels so I bumped the iris to -9 from -10 and did another cal, forgot to take pics of the jvc log unfortunately but HCFR now reports something much closer to target. I'm not sure if this is common behaviour but the steps on the iris do seem v large, -10 to -9 adds about 18nits in my case and the resulting calibration seems more stable too.


Manni

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Significant brightness differences between some iris steps is normal.
Gamma should be flat after autocal, but the power isn't exact. You often have to select 2.3 or 2.5 to get 2.4. That's normal.
You should reset all your user settings and select a target of 2.2 during the autocal. That way the log will show more clearly if the autocal goes well or not, at least according to the Spyder X / Autocal. If you select any other target, the post cal line in the log isn't flat so there is no way to know how close you are. It doesn't make a significant difference if you select 2.4 afterwards, even less if you use a 3D LUT on top. If any user settings are applied (gamma, color temp), they are ignored during the autocal but enabled during the log, so it can also cause some head scratching.
Overall it doesn't look like you're doing too bad. Make sure you've cleared all your user settings. Do a reset to factory defaults if necessary to be sure. 

As long as you run a gamma autocal with spyder X and an color autocal with the i1pro at the filter/lamp/iris setting you are using for each calibration and your user settings are reset, you should be fairly close.

I have an i1Pro2 (actually it's an OEM EFI ES-2000) but I follwed Manni's instructions to the T and the autocal software works.

One thing that's important is that you need to have the 2006 driver for the i1Pro2 installed, not the 2009 one. If you let Windows install the driver automatically then it installed the incorrect 2009 one.
« Last Edit: October 22, 2019, 09:05:31 PM by Dylan Seeger »
A/V Reviewer
Home Theater Review
My Equipment

Significant brightness differences between some iris steps is normal.
Gamma should be flat after autocal, but the power isn't exact. You often have to select 2.3 or 2.5 to get 2.4. That's normal.
You should reset all your user settings and select a target of 2.2 during the autocal. That way the log will show more clearly if the autocal goes well or not, at least according to the Spyder X / Autocal. If you select any other target, the post cal line in the log isn't flat so there is no way to know how close you are. It doesn't make a significant difference if you select 2.4 afterwards, even less if you use a 3D LUT on top. If any user settings are applied (gamma, color temp), they are ignored during the autocal but enabled during the log, so it can also cause some head scratching.
Overall it doesn't look like you're doing too bad. Make sure you've cleared all your user settings. Do a reset to factory defaults if necessary to be sure.

As long as you run a gamma autocal with spyder X and an color autocal with the i1pro at the filter/lamp/iris setting you are using for each calibration and your user settings are reset, you should be fairly close.
To be honest a dE greater than 4 using an i1pro is not a good result imho. The behavior is not that different than what is happening with spyder x: an error progressively increasing. Less impacting but still there. Still oversaturated red. I think the color patterns autocal is using are incorrect in some cases.
« Last Edit: October 23, 2019, 02:52:55 AM by CyberPaul »

Significant brightness differences between some iris steps is normal.
Gamma should be flat after autocal, but the power isn't exact. You often have to select 2.3 or 2.5 to get 2.4. That's normal.
You should reset all your user settings and select a target of 2.2 during the autocal. That way the log will show more clearly if the autocal goes well or not, at least according to the Spyder X / Autocal. If you select any other target, the post cal line in the log isn't flat so there is no way to know how close you are. It doesn't make a significant difference if you select 2.4 afterwards, even less if you use a 3D LUT on top. If any user settings are applied (gamma, color temp), they are ignored during the autocal but enabled during the log, so it can also cause some head scratching.
Overall it doesn't look like you're doing too bad. Make sure you've cleared all your user settings. Do a reset to factory defaults if necessary to be sure.

As long as you run a gamma autocal with spyder X and an color autocal with the i1pro at the filter/lamp/iris setting you are using for each calibration and your user settings are reset, you should be fairly close.
Previous runs with 2.2 show a flat line after autocal. I'll stick to 2.2 in future and change it afterwards instead. 

It seems that changing just the iris by 1 position makes an unexpectedly (to me) large difference.

At -10, it produces much too high gamma (>2.5) and a colour temperature which seems to be aiming at a target of around 6000K. It is consistent but seems quite wrong so dE is frequently >4.

Whereas at -9, gamma comes out pretty much on target (hovers around 2.42) and there is a consistent colour temp at around 6400k with an average dE ~0.5 and a max of <1 as measured by a quick verification chart in displaycal. 



Manni

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Previous runs with 2.2 show a flat line after autocal. I'll stick to 2.2 in future and change it afterwards instead.

It seems that changing just the iris by 1 position makes an unexpectedly (to me) large difference.

At -10, it produces much too high gamma (>2.5) and a colour temperature which seems to be aiming at a target of around 6000K. It is consistent but seems quite wrong so dE is frequently >4.

Whereas at -9, gamma comes out pretty much on target (hovers around 2.42) and there is a consistent colour temp at around 6400k with an average dE ~0.5 and a max of <1 as measured by a quick verification chart in displaycal.
Provided you select the iris setting before running the color only autocal with the i1pro and are not changing anything else (i.e. are not selecting a different picture mode or anything, just keep the settings used for the autocal and NOT changing the iris setting afterwards) this doesn't make much sense. Please do a reset to factory settings with the remote and try again. If this still happens, then I have no idea why. I'll try to reproduce here but I had zero issues with the i1pro and Autocal V12 here in my last brief calibration session. I calibrated iris open for HDR and -12 for SDR, with no issue. I'll post screenshots next month.

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