JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[TCramer]

Alright, I reset the Init file and all settings.  Here are the numbers for a 100% full field white pattern.  

I also did the pre-cal measurements and green is definitely tracking really high, blue slightly low and red really low.  That just seems odd to be so far off out of the box.  The below image is with bt.709, gamma 2.2.  HDR results are similar.

Thoughts?  

[Manni]

Alright, I reset the Init file and all settings.  Here are the numbers for a 100% full field white pattern. 

I also did the pre-cal measurements and green is definitely tracking really high, blue slightly low and red really low.  That just seems odd to be so far off out of the box.  The below image is with bt.709, gamma 2.2.  HDR results are similar.

Thoughts? 

JVC lamps tend to be red deficient, so a push on green is to be expected before calibration. Your lumens seem normal, it looks like you would hit the specs of 1800 lumens if you were to measure High Bright in high lamp, as I suggested.

Though full field is recommended after an autocal (to match the Autocal), it usually drops your brightness a bit. The numbers should be a bit higher with a 25-50% size pattern.

[TCramer]

JVC lamps tend to be red deficient, so a push on green is to be expected before calibration. Your lumens seem normal, it looks like you would hit the specs of 1800 lumens if you were to measure High Bright in high lamp, as I suggested.

Though full field is recommended after an autocal (to match the Autocal), it usually drops your brightness a bit. The numbers should be a bit higher with a 25-50% size pattern.

Doh, sorry I missed the high bright setting. Thanks for taking a look, I really appreciate it. 

This time I'll grab some measurements post auto-cal just to make sure it's not too far off, but I feel much better knowing it seems normal.

[mikiela]

My initial D65 measurement showed that it was spread out.  I did an autocal using a SpyderX and it corrected the D65 measurements as expected.  However, I do recall a drop in overall nits.  I don't have the meter for doing a proper white point with Autocal.  I use a CR-100 (profiled to a CR-250) and LightSpace for doing my calibrations.  I am wondering if just doing the gamma correction with Autocal is giving me the best starting point?  Does Autocal adjust RGB to give maximum gains as a starting point?  Is there a workaround to set the white point without the i1pro2?

[Manni]

My initial D65 measurement showed that it was spread out.  I did an autocal using a SpyderX and it corrected the D65 measurements as expected.  However, I do recall a drop in overall nits.  I don't have the meter for doing a proper white point with Autocal.  I use a CR-100 (profiled to a CR-250) and LightSpace for doing my calibrations.  I am wondering if just doing the gamma correction with Autocal is giving me the best starting point?  Does Autocal adjust RGB to give maximum gains as a starting point?  Is there a workaround to set the white point without the i1pro2?

If you're only using the Spyder then don't do a color autocal, that's probably what caused your brightness drop. Only use the Spyder for gamma.

You can use the spreadsheet method to correct the Spyder using your CR-250, but that's quite involved and currently only documented for CM and HCFR, not for Lightspace. 

I would restore the INIT file, do a gamma only Autocal with the Spyder, and then adjust with the CR100 trained to the CR250 in Lightspace. You shouldn't get such a brightness drop that way.

[dcchan2]

My initial D65 measurement showed that it was spread out.  I did an autocal using a SpyderX and it corrected the D65 measurements as expected.  However, I do recall a drop in overall nits.  I don't have the meter for doing a proper white point with Autocal.  I use a CR-100 (profiled to a CR-250) and LightSpace for doing my calibrations.  I am wondering if just doing the gamma correction with Autocal is giving me the best starting point?  Does Autocal adjust RGB to give maximum gains as a starting point?  Is there a workaround to set the white point without the i1pro2?

There’s a “sanity check” that you can easily perform to see if you’re losing brightness from autocal:

- switch to a User Mode and set the colour profile to Off, which in turn will switch the Color Temp to High Bright
- set HCFR (or whatever calibration program you use) to use RGB Instead of xyY
- measure the peak white luminance
- let's say you get R/G/B=165/185/175; note the lowest reading (165 in this example)
- switch the Color Temp to D65 (6500K), and re-measure the peak white luminance.  Hopefully all three readings are close to one another.
If the D65 reading is close to the lowest HighBright reading, then Autocal is not causing you to lose brightness. Ideally, after colour Autocal it should give you 165/165/165.  If it’s too far off, you can use HighBright and adjust the RGB gains to give you D65.

[jj-34]

Manni, I've re-read your basic section about the meters, you do mention the 2 I1 Pro2 driver versions : 2006 and 2009 but no hint as to which one is best.
Got news about that or is just a no question ?

[Manni]

All I can say is that I'm using the April 2009 driver (see attached) and there is no need to press the button in the JVC Autocal. I just select the i1pro2 in the software once I've place the meter on the calibration plate, and wait 10-15s. The JVC does the init, displays the pattern and moves to the next screen. This is with Windows 10 Pro x66 (build 1909).

The same driver also works great with Calman (which support the button) and Lightspace (which doesn't support the button).

I wish they all supported the button to do a white calibration, it would make the process a lot easier when the meter isn't next to your laptop/PC.

YYMV

[jj-34]

I have the same versions than you ( Win and X-rite) so maybe my memories are a bit dated.
I'll soon know if I get the environment to do another autocal one of these days ...

[TCramer]

I finally had a chance to run some calibrations and I said I'd report back what I saw, so here it is for SDR.  In short, it almost seemed to have over-corrected a touch and was running warm after auto-cal, but I was able to decently level things out to be very close to D65 down until about 40% where it started tracking a bit warm and I simply was unable to level things out. 

Picture 1:  Before/after autocal greyscale
Picture 2:  After additional manual greyscale calibration
Picture 3:  Color gamut before/after autocal
Picture 4: Color gamut after additional color calibration

General question - am I better with my additional manual calibration or just leaving it where it was after autocal?  Here is how I had to change the white balance correction values to balance things out as much as possible.

Gain Red: -8
Gain Green: -3
Gain Blue: 0
Offset Red: -3
Offset Green: 1
Offset Blue 0

For CMS, I had to change Green, Red and Blue a touch, but nothing more than 4 clicks.  Seems ok to me?

I have a few more questions on HDR I'll post when i get to it.

[SirMaster]

I finally had a chance to run some calibrations and I said I'd report back what I saw, so here it is for SDR.  In short, it almost seemed to have over-corrected a touch and was running warm after auto-cal, but I was able to decently level things out to be very close to D65 down until about 40% where it started tracking a bit warm and I simply was unable to level things out. 

Picture 1:  Before/after autocal greyscale
Picture 2:  After additional manual greyscale calibration
Picture 3:  Color gamut before/after autocal
Picture 4: Color gamut after additional color calibration

General question - am I better with my additional manual calibration or just leaving it where it was after autocal?  Here is how I had to change the white balance correction values to balance things out as much as possible.

Gain Red: -8
Gain Green: -3
Gain Blue: 0
Offset Red: -3
Offset Green: 1
Offset Blue 0

For CMS, I had to change Green, Red and Blue a touch, but nothing more than 4 clicks.  Seems ok to me?

I have a few more questions on HDR I'll post when i get to it.

I wouldn't touch the RGB offsets.  Specifically increasing them to positive numbers which usually negatively affects your native contrast ratio to some extent.

After autocal, dial in your 100% white with RGB Gains and then use the gamma editor in autocal to dial in your white balance in 12 points across the greyscale.  You can get it pretty much perfect with that.

Also I would measure and check your gamma curve as well.  Modifying the RGB offsets will affect your gamma too.
If you calibrate your greyscale with the gamma editor you can calibrate both white balance and gamma at the same time.

Also also, when measuring your gamut like you have shown, you need to make sure you are also measuring saturation tracking through the gamut, not just the primaries.  If you adjusted your CMS just to align the primaries you *may* have screwed up your saturation tracking for colors within the gamut.

[SirMaster]

Will do.  I'll load the Init and start from scratch and see what we got.  Thanks Manni!

For what it's worth I did a used RS1000 with about 120 hours about a month back and things turned out beautifully, that's my baseline for concern with this new unit.

I autocal'd that RS1000 before you got it

[TCramer]

I autocal'd that RS1000 before you got it

That RS1000 has been setup for some time and they are very happy with it!  This is a new NX-7.

[TCramer]

I wouldn't touch the RGB offsets.  Specifically increasing them to positive numbers which usually negatively affects your native contrast ratio to some extent.

After autocal, dial in your 100% white with RGB Gains and then use the gamma editor in autocal to dial in your white balance in 12 points across the greyscale.  You can get it pretty much perfect with that.

Also I would measure and check your gamma curve as well.  Modifying the RGB offsets will affect your gamma too.
If you calibrate your greyscale with the gamma editor you can calibrate both white balance and gamma at the same time.

Also also, when measuring your gamut like you have shown, you need to make sure you are also measuring saturation tracking through the gamut, not just the primaries.  If you adjusted your CMS just to align the primaries you *may* have screwed up your saturation tracking for colors within the gamut.

The after gamma tracks to 2.4 very well, so it didn't seem to impact that.  I'll have to experiment with the gamma editor method you mention as I've only run the auto-cal color/gamma so far.  

I'll double check the tracking for non-primaries as well - ChromePure makes that quite easy.  They were looking pretty good from what I recall.

[SirMaster]

The after gamma tracks to 2.4 very well, so it didn't seem to impact that.  I'll have to experiment with the gamma editor method you mention as I've only run the auto-cal color/gamma so far. 

I'll double check the tracking for non-primaries as well - ChromePure makes that quite easy.  They were looking pretty good from what I recall.

To get started with the gamma editor, set your JVC to Custom1 and the correction value to Import.

Now when you select Custom1 in the gamma editor in autocal, you will have a real-time adjustment of 12 points.

The points I believe (by memory) are 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 95.

So in your pattern generator or pattern source, bring up the appropriate matching white level pattern for the point you are working on, and then you can adjust each RGB color individually in autocal for that point and also move all 3 points together to manipulate the gamma.  The points in between will be smoothed between the points you are modifying.

The benefit is you have many more points than 2 to adjust, and you can raise and lower them without worry of messing with your black floor and contrast ratio.