JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[jbn008]

I appreciate all the help Manni.  Quick question about the picture preset before running the autocal. 

For all gamma autocal, Should I use 2.2 (and then adjust to 2.4 after running the 33 step process) or just use 2.4 to start with?

With MadVR you mention using DCI colorspace over bt.2020 with gamma 2.2. I’m not familiar with LUT so should I still do this way?

MadVR Preset before autocal: 
DCI with 2.2 or bt.2020 with 2.4?

I’m sorry for all the questions, but those were the last couple I was confused on. 

Thanks again

[Manni]

I appreciate all the help Manni.  Quick question about the picture preset before running the autocal.

For all gamma autocal, Should I use 2.2 (and then adjust to 2.4 after running the 33 step process) or just use 2.4 to start with?

With MadVR you mention using DCI colorspace over bt.2020 with gamma 2.2. I’m not familiar with LUT so should I still do this way?

MadVR Preset before autocal:
DCI with 2.2 or bt.2020 with 2.4?

I’m sorry for all the questions, but those were the last couple I was confused on.

Thanks again

No worries.

As explained in the basic guide, when you run a gamma autocal, all the curves are corrected (2.2. 2.4, PQ, etc).

Because the log in the autocal always shows 2.2 as a reference (and not the selected target), it's easier to select 2.2 during calibration: if the log after cal is a straight line, you know the autocal went well, according to the Spyder. If you select any other gamma target and don't use a third party software to check your calibration, then it's much more difficult to know how it went. So the advice is to select 2.2 during the autocal, and select your actual target afterwards, or if you're confident the autocal is working well select your target for a possible minor improvement. I personally wouldn't do that if I wasn't checking the calibration afterwards.

Re the target for your madVR SDR calibration, forget about 2.2 / DCI if you don't plan to run a 3D LUT. BT2020 2.4 is fine, as you originally plan. Just don't run another gamma autocal for this calibration because it would replace your HDR one (same lamp mode, same filter mode). Just decide which calibration is more important to you, and run a single gamma for both (or for all if you don't have the filter / prefer not to use it for SDR / HDR wide gamut).

[jbn008]

Awesome. Thanks again

Since I should only run one autocal per lamp mode and filter, I was thinking of doing the two runs below...

1. HDR without color filter: HDR gamma curve st2084 to be used with JVCs DTM, which I use for gaming

2. HDR with color filter:  SDR gamma curve (2.2 at first) to be used with MadVR, which I use for movies. 

Sound correct?

[Manni]

Awesome. Thanks again

Since I should only run one autocal per lamp mode and filter, I was thinking of doing the two runs below...

1. HDR without color filter: HDR gamma curve st2084 to be used with JVCs DTM, which I use for gaming

2. HDR with color filter:  SDR gamma curve (2.2 at first) to be used with MadVR, which I use for movies.

Sound correct?

Yes, as long as you don’t plan to do a separate run for your rec-709 sdr calibration, as it would override / be replaced by 1. (Same filter, same lamp mode).

personally I would run a gamma autocal iris open for your rec-709 sdr calibration (that would also correct your gaming no filter HDR mode in low lamp) and a gamma autocal also iris open for the 2. above with the filter, because I’d optimize the movie calibrations. But the differences should be small.

Then I would run a color autocal at -7 for you SDR calibration, and two color autocal iris open, one for each HDR calibration above as they don’t use the same filter mode.

Unless you want to be able to change iris settings for a calibration, there is no need to do more.

[jbn008]

Thank you Manni!

[jbn008]

Last question and I promise I’ll leave you alone. Haha

You mentioned...
“Yes, as long as you don’t plan to do a separate run for your rec-709 sdr calibration, as it would override / be replaced by 1. (Same filter, same lamp mode).”

If I understand the above correctly, it doesn’t matter what gamma curve I preselect for autocal as long as the filter and lamp match?

In other words, preset HDR (no color filter) with st2084 curve would be the same as if I preselected rec709 with a SDR 2.2 gamma curve?

[Manni]

Last question and I promise I’ll leave you alone. Haha

You mentioned...
“Yes, as long as you don’t plan to do a separate run for your rec-709 sdr calibration, as it would override / be replaced by 1. (Same filter, same lamp mode).”

If I understand the above correctly, it doesn’t matter what gamma curve I preselect for autocal as long as the filter and lamp match?

In other words, preset HDR (no color filter) with st2084 curve would be the same as if I preselected rec709 with a SDR 2.2 gamma curve?

Yes, from a gamma autocal point of view your two calibrations share the same gamma slot. Autocal corrects all the gamma curves for a given lamp/filter combo every time you run it. This is why irrespective of the calibration, it’s recommended to use 2.2 so the log makes more sense. You then switch to whichever gamma target (power or PQ) afterwards.

You might need to (re)read the basic section, all this is explained there in detail.

[jbn008]

That makes sense.  Thank you

I’m embarrassed to say I’ve read your guide a couple of times, but I guess a few things went over my head.  

I feel I have a pretty good understanding now of what to do. I really appreciate your help. 

[TCramer]

I recently received a new NX7 I will be setting up for a friend.  I have it setup at 16' throw to a 120" wide 16:9 image size on a ST100 microperf screen.  For calibration, is used a Spyder X and i1 Basic Pro 2 (for both Autocal and Chromapure).  

My first concern as you can see in the attached, is how much green push there was.  The "before" was before autocal with about 15 hours on the bulb.  Then after autocal, it was still tracking a bit warm and with green push so I still had to make adjustments to the color balance and CMS to dial it in more.  Is this cause for concern?  

Secondly, I can't seem to get the brightness to a level I'd expect.  To get 20 FL for HDR, I need high bulb with -2 iris.  That seems a bit abnormal too?

[Manni]

I assume you've used the i1pro for color and the Spyder X for gamma with the JVC Autocal, both facing the screen?

This is a large-ish nominal gain screen at mid to long throw (not sure, I didn't punch in the numbers), but it does seem a bit dim. The lamp could be a dud. How does it measure before the JVC Autocal?

Also what are your gains settings after adjustment?

If you used the i1pro2 for color only and the Spyder X for gamma only, you should have little manual correction after autocal (usually only a couple of clicks one one or two channels). Make sure the screen type is disabled.

You need to look at the brightness before Autocal (if you don't have that, you need to restore the INIT file) and after autocal, before any gains adjustments, so we know where the loss comes from.

If you still think still it's abnormally dim (lumens-wise) after an INIT restore, measure high bright iris open in high lamp and ask your dealer if it's normal.

If brightness is fine pre-autocal, then something wrong is taking place with the autocal or when you adjust the gains.

[jbn008]

This might be a shot in the dark, but for your dim lamp levels do you happen to know if you have the HDMI level is et on auto?

The reason I ask is when I was measuring brightness I was getting lower brightness levels than normal. When I switched back to 16-234 (from auto) my brightness increased back to normal range for these units.

This was when I originally had my unit professionally calibrated and the meter used was a Klein K10. 

[TCramer]

I assume you've used the i1pro for color and the Spyder X for gamma with the JVC Autocal, both facing the screen?

This is a large-ish nominal gain screen at mid to long throw (not sure, I didn't punch in the numbers), but it does seem a bit dim. The lamp could be a dud. How does it measure before the JVC Autocal?

Also what are your gains settings after adjustment?

If you used the i1pro2 for color only and the Spyder X for gamma only, you should have little manual correction after autocal (usually only a couple of clicks one one or two channels). Make sure the screen type is disabled.

You need to look at the brightness before Autocal (if you don't have that, you need to restore the INIT file) and after autocal, before any gains adjustments, so we know where the loss comes from.

If you still think still it's abnormally dim (lumens-wise) after an INIT restore, measure high bright iris open in high lamp and ask your dealer if it's normal.

If brightness is fine pre-autocal, then something wrong is taking place with the autocal or when you adjust the gains.

Correct, i1Pro for color and Spyder X for gamma, positioned as you suggest in your notes.  Spyder about 12" from the screen and i1 about 2'-3'.  Screen type is disabled and 16' is certainly toward the front end of the throw range.  Honestly the extreme green push was more concerning to me than the brightness issue since these are supposedly so good OoB.  

Unfortunately I didn't write down the before numbers but I thought they were low as well.  Going from memory, I want to say the loss was roughly 10% or a touch more after calibration which I figured is normal.  I think high bulb, 0 iris before anything I was getting right at 300 Lux, which would be about 26 ftL.  Low bulb at 0 was maxing out just under 200 Lux or just over 17 FtL and after cal it is about 180, or just under 16 FtL.

I'm not near the unit right now but I had to adjust green/red gain down in the lower teens (blue was left at 0).  I also had to drop green/bias a few clicks, not as much though.  This was the case for both 6500 SDR and the HDR preset.

I did just get the free lamp from the promotion, so maybe I'll load the Init file and start fresh with that bulb to see where things are at.  If it seems better, I could contact the dealer or JVC about the original bulb.  

[TCramer]

This might be a shot in the dark, but for your dim lamp levels do you happen to know if you have the HDMI level is et on auto?

The reason I ask is when I was measuring brightness I was getting lower brightness levels than normal. When I switched back to 16-234 (from auto) my brightness increased back to normal range for these units.

This was when I originally had my unit professionally calibrated and the meter used was a Klein K10.

Yep this was on auto.  Maybe I'll try that too.

[Manni]

Correct, i1Pro for color and Spyder X for gamma, positioned as you suggest in your notes.  Spyder about 12" from the screen and i1 about 2'-3'.  Screen type is disabled and 16' is certainly toward the front end of the throw range.  Honestly the extreme green push was more concerning to me than the brightness issue since these are supposedly so good OoB. 

Unfortunately I didn't write down the before numbers but I thought they were low as well.  Going from memory, I want to say the loss was roughly 10% or a touch more after calibration which I figured is normal.  I think high bulb, 0 iris before anything I was getting right at 300 Lux, which would be about 26 ftL.  Low bulb at 0 was maxing out just under 200 Lux or just over 17 FtL and after cal it is about 180, or just under 16 FtL.

I'm not near the unit right now but I had to adjust green/red gain down in the lower teens (blue was left at 0).  I also had to drop green/bias a few clicks, not as much though.  This was the case for both 6500 SDR and the HDR preset.

I did just get the free lamp from the promotion, so maybe I'll load the Init file and start fresh with that bulb to see where things are at.  If it seems better, I could contact the dealer or JVC about the original bulb. 

10% drop for calibration sounds fine.

You need to measure high bright in high lamp (gains reset to 0) after the restore of the init file before giving any numbers to JVC. that's how peak brightness is measured as per the specs.

Sure if you have a spare bulb, try it. It's always good to try it right away in case it's a dud... You can always put it back. It's not frequent but it can happen.

I'd sort out the bulb brightness before discussing calibration. A significant adjustment for the gains after a JVC color autocal with the i1pro2 isn't to be expected, so something is fishy here.

Yes it's a good idea to force video levels (as long as you're not a gamer), that's what I do.

[TCramer]

10% drop for calibration sounds fine.

You need to measure high bright in high lamp (gains reset to 0) after the restore of the init file before giving any numbers to JVC. that's how peak brightness is measured as per the specs.

Sure if you have a spare bulb, try it. It's always good to try it right away in case it's a dud... You can always put it back. It's not frequent but it can happen.

I'd sort out the bulb brightness before discussing calibration. A significant adjustment for the gains after a JVC color autocal with the i1pro2 isn't to be expected, so something is fishy here.

Yes it's a good idea to force video levels (as long as you're not a gamer), that's what I do.

Will do.  I'll load the Init and start from scratch and see what we got.  Thanks Manni!

For what it's worth I did a used RS1000 with about 120 hours about a month back and things turned out beautifully, that's my baseline for concern with this new unit.