JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[estabanj]

I had previously posted about my light loss issue. It was the because the iris was getting stuck. If I fully closed and opened the iris the light levels cam back to what I initially had. It seemed to get stuck while using Auto Iris. I actually got to a point where I was 30 nits low before talking to Kris Deering so it can be a big deal.

I put a PSA about it on the other forum in the NX/RS thread.

Cheers Stephen

[avjedi]

Have been following this guide to calibrate my JVC RS2000 that has about 75 hours now.
I did my initial calibration at about 30 hours and I'm planning to do it again at about 100 hours
I've a question on the re-calibration procedure when calibrating again after every few 100 hours

Do I reset the table from original Init file each time I calibrate after every few 100 hours or I calibrate using the existing table settings?

[Manni]

Have been following this guide to calibrate my JVC RS2000 that has about 75 hours now.
I did my initial calibration at about 30 hours and I'm planning to do it again at about 100 hours
I've a question on the re-calibration procedure when calibrating again after every few 100 hours

Do I reset the table from original Init file each time I calibrate after every few 100 hours or I calibrate using the existing table settings?

Hi there,

No, you just redo the autocal for the calibration modes that need it.

The INIT file only needs to be used if you want to return the table to the state they were in before the first calibration, as there is no other way to do so.

Just make sure you reset your user settings (for example offsets/gains) before running the autocal to make sure the  calibration logs show the results of the new calibration, and not the results with your old manual adjustments applied on top. These settings are not taken into account during the calibration, but they are taken into account during the log. Of course if you don't do manual adjustments after the autocal, there is no need to reset them

[avjedi]

Hi there,

No, you just redo the autocal for the calibration modes that need it.

The INIT file only needs to be used if you want to return the table to the state they were in before the first calibration, as there is no other way to do so.

Just make sure you reset your user settings (for example offsets/gains) before running the autocal to make sure the  calibration logs show the results of the new calibration, and not the results with your old manual adjustments applied on top. These settings are not taken into account during the calibration, but they are taken into account during the log. Of course if you don't do manual adjustments after the autocal, there is no need to reset them

That's reliving to hear as reloading init file is very time consuming. I hope JVC fix it in next update
I appreciate your quick response.
Also what thread should I follow to get info on MadVR setup. I know we can't discuss in this thread.

[Manni]

That's reliving to hear as reloading init file is very time consuming. I hope JVC fix it in next update
I appreciate your quick response.
Also what thread should I follow to get info on MadVR setup. I know we can't discuss in this thread.

There are a few threads open on various forums, but the official madVR support thread is on doom9:

https://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=146228

It's well worth registering if you haven't, there are lots of knowledgeable people to help you there with anything madVR related.

Just don't ask support questions in the "improving madVR tonemapping for projectors" thread on the other forum, as that thread is there to help masdshi test some experimental beta versions with experienced users, so generic support questions are not welcome there (and usually not answered by the most experienced members in order to not clutter the thread).

Once you have madVR setup properly with the release version, feel free to install the latest beta and contribute to the beta thread by offering feedback if you can, but please refrain from asking support questions about experimental settings and options.

[TCramer]

I've read through the guide and JVC manual a couple times but have a few things I want to clarify.  I am setting up a NX5 for a friend this weekend and will be setting up a NX7 in a few weeks.  Both will be on FW 3.10 using Autocal 12.  I have a Spyder X and an i1 Pro Basic 2 for color.

• For Rec 709 calibration, it seems pretty straight forward.  If I do the approach of wanting to calibrate the entire iris range of 0 to -15 by doing (0, -5, -10, -15), does that apply to both gamma and color?  Or is that only necessary for color?
• Is it better to do gamma then color, or the other way around?
• Depending on 2, would it be ok to take all gamma measurements for both SDR/HDR, then come back and do all for color measurements?  Just trying to avoid meter changes.
• There will be no Lumagen or MadVR so the DTM used for both will be with the JVC onboard frame adapt.  Knowing this, what is the best method for HDR calibration on the NX5 knowing you can't do it in frame adapt picture mode?  What picture setting, color profile and gamma profile should be used?  A User mode, HDR color and HDR(PQ) gamma?
• Same question for the NX7, only I assume you'd want to use the BT2020 color profile?
• Is it true for HDR, you always want the iris set to 0?
• What do Auto 1 and Auto 2 for the iris actually do on the NX5 without a dynamic iris?

Thanks in advance and apologies if these answers are posted elsewhere. I wasn't sure how much the instructions were updated to account for version 12 and firmware 3.10.  It's been a while since I used autocal, way back to version 6 for an RS600.

[dcchan2]

1. The different aperture ranges are for colour calibration only.
2. I would do gamma first. There was a previous discussion on this.
3. No problems with that.
4,5. I would use a user mode, with the same profile that you use for HDR, and gamma 2.2
6. If the peak luminance is high enough, some would close down the iris a few clicks to get better contrast.
7. All recent JVCs, even the models with a single iris like the RS4x0 and the NX5, have dynamic iris. 

[TCramer]

1. The different aperture ranges are for colour calibration only.
2. I would do gamma first. There was a previous discussion on this.
3. No problems with that.
4,5. I would use a user mode, with the same profile that you use for HDR, and gamma 2.2
6. If the peak luminance is high enough, some would close down the iris a few clicks to get better contrast.
7. All recent JVCs, even the models with a single iris like the RS4x0 and the NX5, have dynamic iris.

I did the HDR autocal with a user mode, gamma of HDR(PQ) and HDR color profile.  When I go back and use Frame Adapt after the fact, the white balance is off and has a very bad yellow push, verified with ChromaPure.  

Ever seen this before?

[dcchan2]

Does the HDR10 mode have the same yellow push?

[TCramer]

Does the HDR10 mode have the same yellow push?

I'll double check tonight and confirm.  I reset the INIT file and will start from scratch.  I had only checked User and Frame Adapt last night.

[CyberPaul]

Have you set the lamp same as you calibrated?

[TCramer]

Does the HDR10 mode have the same yellow push?

It's the iris issue with HDR.  I totally forgot about that.  Turning the iris to manual and everything is fine, turn it to Auto 1 or 2 and on a non-full field test pattern it gets the yellow push.

[Manni]

It's the iris issue with HDR.  I totally forgot about that.  Turning the iris to manual and everything is fine, turn it to Auto 1 or 2 and on a non-full field test pattern it gets the yellow push.

Glad you found the reason. Whether you use it or not during playback, the DI should always be switched off when calibrating.

Given the yellowing issue on all models and the highlights clipping issues on rs1000/rs2000 when the DI is enabled, you might want to consider not using the DI if you care about picture accuracy and details in highlights, which arguably only matters if you have a peak white high enough to get enough headroom for highlights in the first place.

[TCramer]

Glad you found the reason. Whether you use it or not during playback, the DI should always be switched off when calibrating.

Given the yellowing issue on all models and the highlights clipping issues on rs1000/rs2000 when the DI is enabled, you might want to consider not using the DI if you care about picture accuracy and details in highlights, which arguably only matters if you have a peak white high enough to get enough headroom for highlights in the first place.

Are the iris issues confirmed only with HDR content?  I did not have the same yellowing issue with SDR.  Just wondering if it would be ok to keep it on for SDR and just off for HDR.

[SirMaster]

Are the iris issues confirmed only with HDR content?  I did not have the same yellowing issue with SDR.  Just wondering if it would be ok to keep it on for SDR and just off for HDR.

I’ve always seen yellowing and clipping with the iris on every NX5/7 RS1000/2000 that I’ve used/seen (which has been 5 samples) both in SDR and HDR. 

Only the NX9/RS3000 is immune.