JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[Sittler27]

My friend is going to ship me his i1pro2 (i1photo pro 2).  I'll reset with my init file my NX9 and then do gamma only autocal with my Spyder5Pro and then color only on all iris positions, etc. with the i1pro2.

I'll then remeasure with HCFR & my i1d3 to see how much it is off of the autocal'd i1pro2, so that I can then return my friend's unit and then over time I can adjust gains/offsets with HCFR+i1d3 but then I'll be informed at least of how much it would be off and in what gains/offsets.

Does this look like a good approach?  Just looking to avoid purchasing a $2000+ (Cdn) unit.

Side question:  I noticed on my NX9 that the iris seems to engage it's motor every couple iris positions (whereas my older RS620 didn't do it so close together of positions).
So, just want to confirm on the NX9 that the color only autocal can still be done at 0, -5, -10, -15?

[Manni]

My friend is going to ship me his i1pro2 (i1photo pro 2).  I'll reset with my init file my NX9 and then do gamma only autocal with my Spyder5Pro and then color only on all iris positions, etc. with the i1pro2.

I'll then remeasure with HCFR & my i1d3 to see how much it is off of the autocal'd i1pro2, so that I can then return my friend's unit and then over time I can adjust gains/offsets with HCFR+i1d3 but then I'll be informed at least of how much it would be off and in what gains/offsets.

Does this look like a good approach?  Just looking to avoid purchasing a $2000+ (Cdn) unit.

Side question:  I noticed on my NX9 that the iris seems to engage it's motor every couple iris positions (whereas my older RS620 didn't do it so close together of positions).
So, just want to confirm on the NX9 that the color only autocal can still be done at 0, -5, -10, -15?

Sounds good. You could also train the i1d3 to the ipro2 (if checking color and gamma) or with the i1pro2 directly (if checking gamut) to make sure that it's not the i1d3 that adds some errors.

The iris make a different noise at each step depending on which iris is being moved, as the NX9 has a dual iris. That's normal.

You can do 0, -5, -10, -15 or you can do 0, -4, -8, -12, depending on which step you are actually using.

There is a very big difference between some steps (for example -13 and -12) so it's always better to make sure that the step you are actually using is calibrated.

As you don't have an i1pro2 permanently, I would probably do the second one (0-4-8-12) rather than the first, as it uses steps that are more useful. I used to use -15, so that's why I came up with these steps, but 0-4-8-12 are supposed to be the actual steps. Never rechecked as I only do color for the settings I actually use (only one color per calibration) until I need to open the iris a bit (not often!).

[grendelrt]

Sounds good. You could also train the i1d3 to the ipro2 (if checking color and gamma) or with the i1pro2 directly (if checking gamut) to make sure that it's not the i1d3 that adds some errors.

The iris make a different noise at each step depending on which iris is being moved, as the NX9 has a dual iris. That's normal.

You can do 0, -5, -10, -15 or you can do 0, -4, -8, -12, depending on which step you are actually using.

There is a very big difference between some steps (for example -13 and -12) so it's always better to make sure that the step you are actually using is calibrated.

As you don't have an i1pro2 permanently, I would probably do the second one (0-4-8-12) rather than the first, as it uses steps that are more useful. I used to use -15, so that's why I came up with these steps, but 0-4-8-12 are supposed to be the actual steps. Never rechecked as I only do color for the settings I actually use (only one color per calibration) until I need to open the iris a bit (not often!).

Hey Manni, are you going to spend anytime or add a section with the Frame Adapt HDR? I would interested in hearing your impressions on various aspects of it. Such as which settings you found best, if you adjusted your iris + lamp settings with the frame adapt settings (ie High Adapt with iris closed down), and how you feel it stacks up to MadVR currently (I am also a MadVR user).

[Sittler27]

Sounds good. You could also train the i1d3 to the ipro2 (if checking color and gamma) or with the i1pro2 directly (if checking gamut) to make sure that it's not the i1d3 that adds some errors.

The iris make a different noise at each step depending on which iris is being moved, as the NX9 has a dual iris. That's normal.

You can do 0, -5, -10, -15 or you can do 0, -4, -8, -12, depending on which step you are actually using.

There is a very big difference between some steps (for example -13 and -12) so it's always better to make sure that the step you are actually using is calibrated.

As you don't have an i1pro2 permanently, I would probably do the second one (0-4-8-12) rather than the first, as it uses steps that are more useful. I used to use -15, so that's why I came up with these steps, but 0-4-8-12 are supposed to be the actual steps. Never rechecked as I only do color for the settings I actually use (only one color per calibration) until I need to open the iris a bit (not often!).

Thanks or this.  And yes, big steps on the iris:
-9 gets me 18ftL & -10 gets me 13.5ftL

[Sittler27]

When doing gamma autocal, does doing it with filter engaged on DCI also calibrate gamma on filter engaged on BT2020?  (i.e. is it the same filter or different filter necessitating a separate autocal)?

[Manni]

When doing gamma autocal, does doing it with filter engaged on DCI also calibrate gamma on filter engaged on BT2020?  (i.e. is it the same filter or different filter necessitating a separate autocal)?

Same filter, same gamma calibration (if lamp setting is the same)

[Manni]

Hey Manni, are you going to spend anytime or add a section with the Frame Adapt HDR? I would interested in hearing your impressions on various aspects of it. Such as which settings you found best, if you adjusted your iris + lamp settings with the frame adapt settings (ie High Adapt with iris closed down), and how you feel it stacks up to MadVR currently (I am also a MadVR user).

I'll try to look at it more closely next month, when I get my life back

In the meantime, I posted my first impressions here.

It's definitely an improvement over the old static TM in most cases, so it's great for non HTPC sources or people who don't use madVR or a Radiance.

But madVR produces significantly better and more consistent results (which isn't a surprise).

[Sittler27]

Same filter, same gamma calibration (if lamp setting is the same)

I can't seem to get the i1pro2 in the orange box in autocal.  It would seem I'd have to move it so far back it would be well behind the projector.  Does that sound right? 
This is with iris = 0 low lamp.

I have it facing the screen.
If I place it 1' away it's almost at the projector in the interactive orange box picture.
edit:  I just read this may be a bug.  I'll position it in my typical 2' from screen.

Second question:
While I did my gamma only with brightness/contrast at 0; should I be setting my brightness/contrast before doing the color only calibrations?

[Manni]

I can't seem to get the i1pro2 in the orange box in autocal.  It would seem I'd have to move it so far back it would be well behind the projector.  Does that sound right? 
This is with iris = 0 low lamp.

I have it facing the screen.
If I place it 1' away it's almost at the projector in the interactive orange box picture.
edit:  I just read this may be a bug.  I'll position it in my typical 2' from screen.

Second question:
While I did my gamma only with brightness/contrast at 0; should I be setting my brightness/contrast before doing the color only calibrations?

Just replied to this two pages back. It's also explained in step 9 of the general section in the basic preparation post.

[Sittler27]

Just replied to this two pages back. It's also explained in step 9 of the general section in the basic preparation post.

Got it, thanks.

Should I be setting my brightness/contrast before doing the color only calibration off screen or should I leave those at 0 like I did with the gamma only?

[jmonier]

I haven't seen anything about zeroing the Spyder X before use so I thought I'd mention it here.  Unlike the Spyder 5 it requires that this be done.  The zeroing run is done with the cap in place.  I've found that it gives very wrong readings below about 30% or so if this is not done.  This might even account for the bad color Autocals.

I haven't yet tried it with Autocal but I would presume that it is done by having the cap in place at startup similar to the i1Pro2.  (Of course, that assumes that JVC has implemented it correctly.)

UPDATE!!!:

I've investigated further and found that the zeroing capability is strictly a function of the Argyll drivers.  It still appears that the Spyder X is not as good at the lower levels as the Spyder 5 when the dark output is not zeroed, but the difference may not be that important.

In looking at the Spyder X vs. the Spyder 5 when not trained against the i1Pro, it appears that they have significantly different spectral characteristics (not really surprising).  I hope that JVC has taken that into consideration but, given the problems seen by Manni (and Kris Deering), it seems possible that they have not.

[Manni]

I haven't seen anything about zeroing the Spyder X before use so I thought I'd mention it here.  Unlike the Spyder 5 it requires that this be done.  The zeroing run is done with the cap in place.  I've found that it gives very wrong readings below about 30% or so if this is not done.  This might even account for the bad color Autocals.

I haven't yet tried it with Autocal but I would presume that it is done by having the cap in place at startup similar to the i1Pro2.  (Of course, that assumes that JVC has implemented it correctly.)

Thanks, that's really interesting, though in my experience it's the reading above 30% that get progressively worse and worse in the Autocal. I had no problem with readings below 30%.

Also you can't use the i1pro2 is you don't do the dark recal. While the Autocal has no problem using the Spyder X without doing a dark cal procedure. So I doubt it is implemented in the software.


I'll give it another try next month when I get my life back

[jmonier]

I discovered this while I was comparing Spyder X, Spyder 5 and i1DisplayPro, using HCFR, all trained by my I1Pro.  The Spyder 5 and i1DisplayPro tracked very well while the Spyder X looked really bad below 30-40%.  One thing that I didn't think of at the time was that, even though it looked bad, dE might not have been very bad.

[Manni]

Yes as I said in my brief report I'm waiting for the Spyder X to be supported in Calman because I just don't have it in me to do any test of the sort with Lightspace. Hopefully Calman support will arrive soon and I can take some measurements to compare the 5 pro, X pro and i1pro2. Otherwise I might give it a try with Lightspace, but it's really not ideal.

In any case, not before next month

[alamagar]

Hi all,
I am trying to make the first Autocal to my brand new RS2000. Not new to calibation, many years calibrating with HCFR and i1d3.
But now I am struggeling before start calibrating with Autocal. I just received the new SpyderX, installed the Autocal 12 v1 calibration software, deal with the network settings (working) but... the Autocal does not detect the spyderX.

Steps I followed:

• I download the spyderXpro_5.4_setup.exe from datacolor download website
• Installed it
• Autocal says spyderX not detected
• I noticed there is a datacolor icon in the lower bar and has the option to activate spyderX. I did it.
• Autocal says spyderX not detected
• Then I clicked on the exit option of the datacolor icon menu, as you recommend not to mix the software.
• Autocal says spyderX not detected
• I uninstall the spyderXpro_5.4, so not icon nor process should be running.
• Autocal says spyderX not detected
• I rebooted the laptop
• Autocal says spyderX not detected

Worth to say, that when I connect the spyderX to the USB port it is recognized by the system, it is displayed in the devices section of control pannel and I have the typical USB icon to extract the device. As well, I checked with the datacolor utility before unistalling it and it recognized the spyderX
By the way, I tried with HCFR 3.5.1.4 and I noticed the it neither recognizes the spyderX, but may be it shouldn't.

What I am doing wrong?
Can anyone help me?

Many thanks in advance.
Mario.