JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[bobof]

I'm not doubting you guys are measuring this difference, but I wonder why it is?  It doesn't make a ton of sense at first look.


I understand there is now a filter in both the green and red path.  I wonder if this is a single filter in an opportune place in the light splitting, or two separate filters.  If two separate filters, I wonder if they're both always being used - perhaps they don't need one of them in high lamp.  Do you hear any filter type sounds when switching lamp mode, or is it just the change in fan noise?  I don't think this is likely though.


Are these all calibrated D65 measures?
The lamp spectrum changes with high lamp, which I guess could have an effect; but it is a big difference.


And of course, when you switch the lamp mode you're in a different Autocal bank, perhaps there is some difference there...  I know you've not run autocal yet, but perhaps there is some difference in what they are loaded with to start with.


The only reason to try and figure this out is to see if it is possible to liberate a bit more light in low lamp with the filter on.

[Manni]

I'm not doubting you guys are measuring this difference, but I wonder why it is?  It doesn't make a ton of sense at first look.

I understand there is now a filter in both the green and red path.  I wonder if this is a single filter in an opportune place in the light splitting, or two separate filters.  If two separate filters, I wonder if they're both always being used - perhaps they don't need one of them in high lamp.  Do you hear any filter type sounds when switching lamp mode, or is it just the change in fan noise?  I don't think this is likely though.

Are these all calibrated D65 measures?
The lamp spectrum changes with high lamp, which I guess could have an effect; but it is a big difference.

And of course, when you switch the lamp mode you're in a different Autocal bank, perhaps there is some difference there...  I know you've not run autocal yet, but perhaps there is some difference in what they are loaded with to start with.

The only reason to try and figure this out is to see if it is possible to liberate a bit more light in low lamp with the filter on.

I agree 100% that it is not expected, which is why I initially thought that my low lamp numbers would apply to high lamp too.

It definitely works that way on the rs500 as far as I remember.

No there is no filter noise when moving between high/low in high lamp.

The calibration tables can make a difference, but that would be a big difference at 100%, which is unlikely.

I do take the time to reprofile the Discus eveytime I change lamp mode or filter mode, so I have five profiles: SDR Rec-709, BT2020-F (low lamp), BT2020-F (high lamp), HDR-NF (low lamp) and HDR-NF (high lamp).

The differences are not huge, but enough to impact the results. I redid all my measurements yesterday when I found this and it's 100% checked. All the brightness / contrast results I've taken with Calman (in the zips BT2020 and HDR open iris) are at D65 for every single mode, which is why it take a while to run them. I set D65 with the i1pro2, then checked the Discus profile to make sure the RGB/100% white reading is the same, re-ran the profile if necessary, and then took the contrast measurements with the Discus. I did this every single time I changed either the filter mode or the lamp mode.

I also made sure that the Discus had a dark cal within 5mn, especially for the measurements with the DI.

So I'm 99.99% confident of my measurements

[bobof]

So I'm 99.99% confident of my measurements

I didn't even mention measurement technique stuff as I'm sure you're sure...

If you were interested to work out if it is intrinsic to the filter + lamp spectrum in hi vs low, or a digital issue in the projector calibration tables, you could measure the projector in Profile Off mode with 100% white patch.  And while in profile off mode with your white patch displayed use JVCcontrol as per my post elsewhere, or some other means, to sneak the filter into the light path for the purpose of measurements.  It would give a valuable clue as to whether there is scope to get more P3 brightness in low lamp...

Edit: in each case you'd need to use the colour temp sliders to adjust 100% white to match D65 of course.

[Manni]

I've just posted some initial impressions. It's a draft (so forgive any typos) but it's roughly accurate.

Bobof, sorry but I've spent a lot of time calibrating and measuring, now that I'm happy with the performance I'm going to watch content. A lot of content! I'm super happy with the projector and it was very difficult for me not to watch again every single film I watched a clip from...

Later I'll get the meters out again, but for now, I'm patterned out

[bobof]

Bobof, sorry but I've spent a lot of time calibrating and measuring, now that I'm happy with the performance I'm going to watch content. A lot of content! I'm super happy with the projector and it was very difficult for me not to watch again every single film I watched a clip from...

I wasn't suggesting you should, just a way to figure out a bit more if you were interested.. .  Cheers!

[LovingDVD]

Wow Manni - Just finished getting caught up with your progress. What am amazing thread you are building and super organized. This is a fantastic resource. Thanks so much for putting this together! I'm really happy that you love the new unit and it is a significant upgrade over your RS500. Looking forward to reading more about your impressions as you continue to spend more time with the unit.

[Dylan Seeger]

Did a REC709/SDR calibration tonight:

JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

Greyscale needed a decent bit of help, but I could tell that right out of the box. I'll more than likely need to do another calibration in a month or so as I only have 25 hours on this bulb. I forgot to take a screenshot of the gamma curve, but that was pretty close to perfect out of the box. Brightness and contrast set to their default '0' setting clips and crushes properly at 235 and 16.

[Manni]

Looks good Dylan. Did you check if brightness = 0 raises the black floor on your unit too? The defaults in HDMI standard (16-235) do clip below 16 and above 235, but I needed -2 on brightness to not raise the black floor and kill on/off contrast. It would be good to know if mine is an odd one out or if it's more frequent.

[Dylan Seeger]

The way I have things set up is like this. I use LAV Video Decoder and under Options for it I set 'RGB Output Levels" as 'Untouched, As Input", then in madVR, I set it to 0-255 and then in nvidia control center for my RTX 2070 I have it set to Full 0-255 as well. This way the computer itself isn't altering anything. I also use the "disable GPU gamma ramps" under the calibration tab in madVR. All of these settings make it so only the projector will manipulate the image. My RS2000 correctly detects the incoming image when setting the HDMI Input Level to Auto. I used the AVS Test Pattern suite to confirm black crushes properly a 16 and white clips properly at 235 with both the Brightness and Contrast settings set to their default '0' position. I have the R. Masicola HDR test pattern suite and will use that when doing my HDR10 calibration in the coming days.

[Manni]

The fact the the levels clip where they should doesn’t mean that you aren’t raising the black floor. I explained this briefly in the recommended settings.  Display a black pattern (no ambient light of course) and press hide on the remote. Does the pattern get blacker? Sometimes it’s not possible to detect visually that the brightness setting raises the black floor, you need to measure. For example, with brightness at 0, I can see that the black floor is raised with the “hide” test. With -1, it’s not visible that clearly by eye, but if I meaure contrast still goes down.  Only -2 in my case doesn’t raise the black floor. This is not detectable using the pattern used to set levels. You need a black pattern (and ideally a meter able to read black accurately) to assess this.

[Dylan Seeger]

I will test this out later. I will place my lux meter as close to the lens as I can to get the most accurate reading.

[Mavromatis]

I received my Spyder5Pro today and decided to "LOG" the results.  The only adjustments I have made OOTB was 2 point adjustment using Calman for BT709 and that got me great deltas/results for Gamma and Color using the C6 HDR Meter for BT709.

I'm unfamiliar with the JVC calibration so perhaps you can help me out with the "LOG" results and if I should actually run the gamma+color calibration?  Or if I should use Calman and calibrate the HDR as it seems like the HDR is way off...

User 1 (BT709:

JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

HDR10 Results:

JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[Murray]

This maynot be the right place to post but I thought manni or someone else might help me... Ive asked this question on some of the madvr threads but cant seem to get an answer...

I have the new NX9, screen size is 145" diag curved Stewart ST130 micro perf. Im using the new dynamic madvr HDR to SDR version 49 which I just love. It is better than the new tone mapping on the NX9 and super bright I can run in low lamp.

My problem is I just dont know how to set the target nits in madvr, I have asked this question but most come back saying try this or that and see what looks best. I was told for my screen and its gain of 1.2 I should use 80 target on the NX9, but I know of others that use 200 with a Z1. I have tried 80 which I say looks great, but last night I tried 200, but I dont see anything really change, however i dont know what to look for being so new to HDR. Manni or someone else can you please advise me what to look for or what to set the target nits to.

Many thanks in advance and sorry if this is the wrong place to ask.

[Dylan Seeger]

Murray, you'll need a lux meter. You'll need to measure the actual peak white image brightness coming off of your screen. This is the number you'll want to use for the latest builds of madVR.

[Murray]

Murray, you'll need a lux meter. You'll need to measure the actual peak white image brightness coming off of your screen. This is the number you'll want to use for the latest builds of madVR. Oh not so easy:(