JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[jj-34]

Ah, bummer, the sensor is defective. I found and downloaded the i1 diagnostic program and when it starts to calibrate it fails every time. Too late to return too (bought used). If anyone has suggestions I will take apart. The unit is pretty pristine, maybe there is something simple awry from day one and it was never used.

I had this problem too the first time I used mine, the i1diagnostic failed because the usb port was not giving enough power, it went OK when I plugged it into a USB 3 port.
But yours may indeed be defective unfortunately

[dsm1212]

What doe the i1 pro2 working sensor look like when you do the calibration if you look at it? Mine does a faint greenish blink. Barely visible, I have to turn lights off or cup my hand around it to see it. It does not seem like enough light to take a calibration read to me. My guess is the bulb(s) have failed.

[dpeter9]

I performed my first autocal on my NX7 using a Spyder X and these were my results. Should I be concerned that the color temp is not closer to 6500k?

[dsm1212]

What doe the i1 pro2 working sensor look like when you do the calibration if you look at it? Mine does a faint greenish blink. Barely visible, I have to turn lights off or cup my hand around it to see it. It does not seem like enough light to take a calibration read to me. My guess is the bulb(s) have failed.

X-rite wants $750 for a general repair which is crazy. Any other options out there? Otherwise I will disassemble and investigate myself since it is worthless :-).

[jj-34]

Are you sure the USB cable is OK ?

[jj-34]

Here is a short video of the calibration light when DisplayCal does the i1Pro2 self calibration, notice the green stray light  on my desk top :



There's one more thing you can do is remove the black and round protection cap and check that the small lens is clean, be careful it is rather stiff to remove.
( General maintenance : pages 34 and 35 of the x-rite i1 Pro user guide )

[dsm1212]

Thanks so much for the video. Mine does seem a little different. There is no light through the lens. With the cover off there is light all around it. With that cover on the light is barely visible. Lens looks clean. There is a clear lens in the cap that comes off too. That was a bit dirty but removing and/or cleaning it didn’t help. The light here could be ok. Maybe is an issue with the sensor itself. I do see kits online for replacing the lights but I don’t know it seems lit all around. My phone doesn’t seem to create a video that the forum can accept. I’ll see if I can convert one.

[jj-34]

My video is only a direct url link to the place where it is stored as an mp4, indeed the forum itself does not accept MP4s.

If there's light all around but not thru the lens that could mean that something has been displaced.

[dsm1212]

My video is only a direct url link to the place where it is stored as an mp4, indeed the forum itself does not accept MP4s.

If there's light all around but not thru the lens that could mean that something has been displaced.

Ah, ok try these. They are MOV's from iphone, hopefully they work:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6cys6nrjz346x2h/Video%20Dec%2028%2C%207%2012%2001%20PM.mov?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k8ckzm7e3l2s7d1/Video%20Dec%2028%2C%207%2012%2022%20PM.mov?dl=0

steve

[jj-34]

From your first video I notice that your limiting aperture cover is not seated correctly, it is turned almost 120° clockwise, the small arrow on its rim should be facing the closed ring position on the body like my attached picture.
Not sure that will make a difference, but who knows.
Also there seems to be plenty of light.

[dcchan2]

Does the cradle have a matching serial number as the meter itself?  Did you place the meter on the exposed white tile while starting autocal, and when calibrating it?

[randman]

This isn’t directly related to calibration, but I thought the calibrators in this forum are the likeliest  to have qualitative data: My projector is behind the back wall. I was thinking of getting glass (home theater glass.com) to put in the hole between the projector and the back wall. This will keep fan noise out and home theater sound in. Folks who use them really like them. My questions: does the glass have impacts that can be seen with the naked eye, or any potential impacts that can be fixed via calibration, or any changes in the way calibration is done?

[Ultimathor]

I've just run a couple of Autocals on my JVC N5 and I want to make sure that I did it the right way. 

I use a Calibrite Colorchecker Display Pro for both gamma and colour using the customs DLLs. And I use SirMaster's Qalif Spectro .edr files for low and high lamp without filter. 

I use madVR to from HTPC (Nvidia 3060TI) through Vertex2 to watch the following content:
- Movies 4K HDR: User 2, BT.2020, Gamma 2.4, 6500K, High Lamp, Aperture 0 Manual
- Movies 4K SDR and 1080p SDR: User 1, Rec.709, Gamma 2.4, 6500K, Low Lamp, Aperture 0 or -1 Manual
- Sports 1080p: Natural, Rec.709, Gamma 2.2, 6500K, Low Lamp, Aperture 0 Manual

As I understand, it should only be necessary to do two calibrations. One for High Lamp BT.2020 and one for Low Lamp Rec.709. Each calibration includes gamma and colour run separately on the CCDP with and without the diffuser cap. 

I have reset all the manual changes done in a previous unsuccessful calibration by a pro calibrator as I didn't like the result. 

I first ran a Autocal calibration of User1, Rec.709, Gamma 2.4, 6500K, Low Lamp, Aperture 0. When I watched some content afterwards it was quite dark. This was the case even if I changed the gamma on the N5 to 2.2. I then reran the calibration using Gamma 2.2 and now the content much brighter even with gamma set at 2.4. I had thought from reading the beginning of this thread, that one calibration would be sufficient for all gamma choices and all Picture Modes. Is that not correct?

Or could it be related to the fact, that in the calibration page in madVR settings, I've selected that the display is calibrated to gamma power curve 2.2? 

I don't use that many different combinations, so I wouldn't mind running a calibration for each one. However, I'd prefer to do it the right way. 

What is the best way handle this. Feel free to point to a previous answer. 

Thanks :-)

[JvcNativeLCOS]

Before I go buy a laptop for autocal. Can someone tell me if jvc autocal works with windows 11?  So I know if I should shop for a laptop with windows 10/11

[randman]

This isn’t directly related to calibration, but I thought the calibrators in this forum are the likeliest  to have qualitative data: My projector is behind the back wall. I was thinking of getting glass (home theater glass.com) to put in the hole between the projector and the back wall. This will keep fan noise out and home theater sound in. Folks who use them really like them. My questions: does the glass have impacts that can be seen with the naked eye, or any potential impacts that can be fixed via calibration, or any changes in the way calibration is done?

I have glass in front of my projector (which is in a room behind the back wall). I do not see any degradation of the image quality. Before I decided to install the glass, I looked up a number of threads in the other forum, and from what I've seen, everyone who has added glass  has seen no degradation in image quality. Whether or not a meter can tell the difference, I don't know. But with just the naked eye, I haven't noticed any difference. It's wonderful not hearing the projector fan noise anymore. I never used to run my JVC in high lamp mode. Now, even high lamp mode is not audible.

EDIT: it's also made audio calibration easier. I no longer have to power off my projector when doing audio calibration.