JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[rob-houston]

Probably a good reason to save it to a dedicated thumb drive. After losing all my wine cellar inventory information to a computer crash and a corrupt backup, I save it on 4 dedicated thumb drives now!

I have 4 drives that I rotate every month backing up my data on 2 computers and 1 USB drive. Unfortunately my credit union of 30 years relocated the Houston office and I lost my offsite storage!

I learned to save early and often decades ago.

That's why I got a UPS for my Compaq Portable in 1984/85 because of power outages brought about when a new section of homes where being built. I got bit one time. Fortunately I had flow charts and notes and only had to re-key the code!

[Nooj]

With an adapter ring that I made with 3D printer, it allows to put a 77mm filter on the JVC.

I continue my tests, but the perfect shade for this projector is the filter shade "Lee 248 Half minus green". But it exists only in gelatin. Otherwise a CC15M filter is the closest. But in glass I find only CC10M and CC20M. I will see with a manufacturer of glass if it is possible to make the same shade as the filter Lee 248 but in glass. would be ideal.

On a N5 a CC15M filter should be enough, I just tested on a RS2000 and it's not enough, I need a CC20M that I haven't received yet. But I tested with a Tiffen FLD which is quite dark and it allows me to have 51 nits on 103 inches (screen 0.9) with the RGB gains almost at the maximum I get 6500k, so native contrast of the panels and there is no more color drift related to the auto iris. the blacks are very black !!!!

[JvcNativeLCOS]

Quick question. Tried reading through the pages of questions/answers but there’s a lot to read. 

#1- When calibrating for SDR gamma…can I select “apply to all” and expect this to take care of the gamma in HDR as well? (Even if sdr and hdr have low/high lamp modes respectively)

#2- my jvc is version 3.5, if I’m about to auto calibrate, should I update to version 3.52?  Read something it fixed things in auto cal (or made things run better)

Thanks for all the help. This page has been very helpful. Especially since this will be my first attempt at calibration.

[nathan_h]

#1 No.  Different lamps modes are separate.
#2 Sort of.  Seems like it is accurate without the update.

[JvcNativeLCOS]

#1 No.  Different lamps modes are separate.
#2 Sort of.  Seems like it is accurate without the update.

Thanks

i have the spiderX meter. Now just looking for the i1basic pro 2 meter. I see amazon has it but says “usually delivers within 5 months”
is there a certain revision I should be looking for?  I know E is the latest (how do I check which revision)

[JvcNativeLCOS]

Thanks

i have the spiderX meter. Now just looking for the i1basic pro 2 meter. I see amazon has it but says “usually delivers within 5 months”
is there a certain revision I should be looking for?  I know E is the latest (how do I check which revision)

Nevermind. Found the answer I was looking for. The Rev E is basically the i1 pro 2. 

[PhotoKevin]

Newby here.  Which sensor is the preferred one?  The Spyder or the Eye One?

I have been using a dedicated i1 with a NEC monitor for Photoshop work.  It is several years old and has specific firmware so I think I need a new one for the JVC.  Is one better?  Looks like the Spyder is needed for some features.

Kevin

PS reading the first part of this thread but still, which is the preferred sensor.  Based on what I have read so far, each is better for different things.

[PhotoKevin]

Looks like I desperately need to calibrate the new RS1000.  Out of the box, it does not throw as good of a picture on 1080P content as the PJ it replaces.  Yes, it does stay reliably on which the old one did not but, the picture is not as good at the calibrated Vango with an old Lumagen Mini.  

I am thinking a cheap laptop but am still not sure which sensor.  I am used to the xrite as there is a dedicated version with my NEC monitor I use for Photoshop work.

Any thoughts?


Kevin

[Murray]

Im about to start my first ever autocal on my NX9 and Im very nervous! I havent really ever followed this thread as it looks a bit daunting......I bought the SpyderXpro and have just watched this youtube video and thought it very good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taD0-TmORus&ab_channel=TheCasualCinephile
I feel as if I can follow his instructions, what do you guys on here think of the video?

I know many of the experts always say the spyder is no good for colour but around 20 mins on the video he mentions that JVC and Chris from JVC actually recommend the Spyder. Chris says that after autocal the result will be actually better than the default from the projector, using the Spyder. Again what are your thoughts:-X

[PhotoKevin]

My Spyder will be here this week.  I am going to try it.  I watched a video on the web that not only used a Spyder X Pro but then did measurements with a higher end colorimeter and the results were close.  Not perfect but very close for color.  With the deal that I just got on a Spyder (about $100 US) I thought I would try.

I am going to follow the instructions for saving the original set up file to the T and back it us everywhere.

I think one of the problems with the Spyder is that they can vary.  Tom Huffman of Chromapure sells some Spyder Xs that have be measured against a better colorimeter.  Then puts in that compensation in his software.  I was ready to pull the trigger on Tom's software and a different sensor from him but with a $100 Spyder, I thought I would give it a try.

Kevin

[PhotoKevin]

Well, I used autocal and the Spyder X Pro.  The result is good.  Could it be better?  Probably but for $100 it was well worth it.  I did have issues trying to direct connect the new Dell Laptop to the projector.  (I think it was settings in Windows)  Connected the projector to my network and used wifi from the computer and had no problems.  It does look good.  One problem noted is that the differences in the quality of the feeds on this projector are more noticeable than on my Vango.

Looking forward to 4K sources.  I need to upgrade my Pre/Pro but I am happy.  I may get better software and/or a better sensor in the future but this is pretty darned good.

Kevin

[Murray]

Im very new to using autocal on my NX9 and so far only used the Spyder X Pro for gamma and colour. I have a EFI ES-2000 Spectrophotometer that I have since bought for colour only but its on its way from the UK.

My question is, I did the calibration for HDR with the filter set to wide and saved, then I did another with the filter set to normal for HDR and saved. Does this mean that if I switch between normal and wide they my NX9 will always display both as calibrated or is it only the last one I saved?

[dsm1212]

I've calibrated gamma with spyderx several times but I picked up an i1pro2 (rev E) and I cannot get past the darn "Cannot detect the sensor". I'm hitting the "measure" button after clicking the sensor in the app. I've tried different timing, holding the button, etc. The lights on the i1pro2 do blink a couple times. I've tried both the 2006 and 2009 drivers. I tried two different computers including one that I'm sure can drive a lot of power on the USB ports. I'm at a loss. Maybe my sensor is bad? It looks unused. Is there some other free software I could try just to make sure the sensor is ok?

steve

[JohnG]

Im about to start my first ever autocal on my NX9 and Im very nervous! I havent really ever followed this thread as it looks a bit daunting......I bought the SpyderXpro and have just watched this youtube video and thought it very good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taD0-TmORus&ab_channel=TheCasualCinephile
I feel as if I can follow his instructions, what do you guys on here think of the video?

I know many of the experts always say the spyder is no good for colour but around 20 mins on the video he mentions that JVC and Chris from JVC actually recommend the Spyder. Chris says that after autocal the result will be actually better than the default from the projector, using the Spyder. Again what are your thoughts:-X

That YouTube tutorial is perfect for those of us with the NX series (and possibly more), using the Spyder X.  He shows that the Spyder X sensor faces the screen, not the projector like the previous generation of Spyder did.  There are a few things left out, such as the impact of the "Environment" measurements and adjustments, but he's covered the bases pretty well. I also watched the discussion with Chris from JVC.  The YouTube tutorial tracks properly with Chris' comments except for one thing: Chris commented that he always runs his projector in High Lamp mode, even for SD content.  That's the first time I've heard that recommendation. Most JVC owners seem to run SD content with the lamp in Low Power Mode.  Anyone have further thoughts on this topic?  I'd also appreciate any comments about the Environment adjustments that are part of the JVC Auto-Cal software.  I'm running an NX-7.  It's my 3rd JVC and 6th HT Projector.  Since most of us don't perform a calibration more than once or twice a year, that YouTube tutorial should be bookmarked.  It's a great "refresher" and helped me perform a new auto-cal individually for SD and HD content.  The picture is improved (Lamp at 375 hours).

[dsm1212]

I've calibrated gamma with spyderx several times but I picked up an i1pro2 (rev E) and I cannot get past the darn "Cannot detect the sensor". I'm hitting the "measure" button after clicking the sensor in the app. I've tried different timing, holding the button, etc. The lights on the i1pro2 do blink a couple times. I've tried both the 2006 and 2009 drivers. I tried two different computers including one that I'm sure can drive a lot of power on the USB ports. I'm at a loss. Maybe my sensor is bad? It looks unused. Is there some other free software I could try just to make sure the sensor is ok?

steve

Ah, bummer, the sensor is defective. I found and downloaded the i1 diagnostic program and when it starts to calibrate it fails every time. Too late to return too (bought used). If anyone has suggestions I will take apart. The unit is pretty pristine, maybe there is something simple awry from day one and it was never used.