JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[dcchan2]

Presumably you meant to say Spyder X? It can be very confusing to the reader.

"6) At least in my set-up, the Spyder 5 facing the screen has no issue reading the points near black for a 33 point gamma autocal,"

[Manni]

Presumably you meant to say Spyder X? It can be very confusing to the reader.

"6) At least in my set-up, the Spyder 5 facing the screen has no issue reading the points near black for a 33 point gamma autocal,"

Yes thanks, I’ll correct the typo. It was late...

[mikiela]

Hi Manni,

Thanks for putting this information together...much appreciated!

Given that you are measuring from about 2 feet out, what approximate angle is the meter at?  I tried searching for spot size per distance for both the SpyderX and i1Pro but couldn't find any specs.

Mike

[Manni]

Hi Manni,

Thanks for putting this information together...much appreciated!

Given that you are measuring from about 2 feet out, what approximate angle is the meter at?  I tried searching for spot size per distance for both the SpyderX and i1Pro but couldn't find any specs.

Mike

Don’t worry about this. Use full size patterns, get the meter to read the center of the scren (using 1% window patterns to position maximizing brightness) and you don’t need to match FOV.

[CyberPaul]

You are confusing undersaturation of gamut primaries and RGB balance at 100% white. Not related to my post. Your rec-709 gamut is undersaturated for green (and/or red), it's a common issue with some JVCs. This can't be corrected and has nothing to do with the JVC Autocal. Using the filter with rec-709 can help, but again it has nothing to do do with what I was talking about.

Maybe I'm confusing, you are definitely more expert than me, but what if the Autocal tries to compensate green and red not perfectly saturated, pushing pointlessly towards R and G direction? Are you 100% sure that white can't be impacted by this? After all saturation is the intensity of a hue: increasing intensity can warp the gamut a little like (too-short-blanket-problem). It is not the first time that trying to push beyond limits is producing worse results. Why don't you experience the same phenomenon when you calibrate DCI space with filter on?

[CyberPaul]

I've added a note in the first step of my recent report here to explain why some might have come to the conclusion that there is more than one gamma range for the same filter/lamp mode combination.

Very helpful confirmation, thanks!
Since I've a scope screen and I'm using 5 lens memory positions for the several aspect ratios, with different iris aperture, I usually calibrate gamma at intermediate position between minimum and maximum aperture I'm using (-5 in my case).This can be an additional suggestion for people that is not using just one aperture, like me.

[TCramer]

Reporting back on my issues from a few days back.  I reset the init file and started from scratch.  I made sure to place all meters about 18" from the screen keeping a very consistent upward angle.  Long story short, I think it's looking much better but still leaves me with a few questions.  I've only done low lamp so far.  This will be a 120" wide 16:9 Seymour XD screen, so I'm pushing it for brightness on low lamp.  I'll get to high with the filter later - today I did HDR with no filter.

I've attached some screenshots showing the results.

• SDR autocal white balance and color before/after
• SDR white balance before/after
• HDR autocal white balance and color before/after (results in FA mode)
• HDR white balance before/after
• HDR saturations after autocal
• Brightness change after autocal

With these results, I guess here are my questions.

• SDR - red and green are slightly oversaturated after auto-cal.  Am I better to leave be, or try to manually correct?
• SDR - white balance is warm throughout the range.  Should I try to correct 100% by dropping red Gain and then adjust the rest with the Gamma tool?  Or is that more likely to mess it up and lose more brightness?
• HDR - White balance is leaps better than before.  Again, should I just let it be or try to tweak the gain/offset to get closer to D65 or just let it be?
• HDR - autocal did improve the saturations significantly but green still tracks way off line.  Is that normal for the JVCs?  As I understand, this cannot be correct for Frame Adapt.
• Are the brightness drops posted about as expected?

Thanks for the help thus far all.

[dcchan2]

You seem to be using the BT.2020 targets for reference, which you will not achieve.  You should use the P3 targets instead, although you have to use "P3 in BT.2020".

As for white balance, I would just use the RGB gain controls to align 80%, and run another sweep to see if everything is close.  Note that the RGB gains affect all input levels proportionately; e.g., if R is higher than G by 5% across the board, that can be corrected with the R gain control and it’s not necessary to use the 12-pt gamma controls. 

If you plan to use the gamma tool then use 100% to align RGB; however, I don't think it's worthwhile.

[Manni]

As Dominic said, you need to read P3 within BT2020 when checking saturations on a BT2020 calibration, as you won't reach more than 70-75% of BT2020 with these, and that's with the filter. That's normal and not a problem as most of the content doesn't go beyond P3, it just uses BT2020 as a container.

[mikiela]

I ran Autocal following most of the recomendations given earlier.  I set up the i1Pro at about 2 feet using the 1% window as a guide.  The shadow of the meter was approximately 6" below the bottom of the window and mostly in line with the main viewing position.  I forgot to reinstall the original init file.  In any case, it was not the "original" init file as the projector was precalibrated before I received it and that file is no longer available.  I ran the color only calibration followed by the gamma cal with the SpyderX.  I then used LightSpace with my CR-100 which had been previously profiled with a borrowed CR-250.  I had to set the green to -1 to hit the white point.  I did an SDR calibration and posted the results in my build thread.

Although my test material looked great, I did find a bit of red push in the first few bars coming out of black when looking at the Lumagen test patterns.  This was observed even before the LUTs were installed...so not a result of the LS cal.

The 1D LUT which shows a red dip near black.  My LS calibration did not change the red push.

[dcchan2]

You need to watch the autocal screen as it reads the gamma patches and make sure none of them read 0 (which is likely what caused the red push).  Open the iris fully and if necessary, zoom in the lens to reduce the image size, or switch to Normal (20-pt) if you were using Quality (33-pt).

[mikiela]

You need to watch the autocal screen as it reads the gamma patches and make sure none of them read 0 (which is likely what caused the red push).  Open the iris fully and if necessary, zoom in the lens to reduce the image size, or switch to Normal (20-pt) if you were using Quality (33-pt).

I am 18'6" back from a 144" diagonal 2.40 screen and used the 33pt with iris open.  I will try zooming as you suggest.

Thanks!

[CyberPaul]

The screen is actually quite big and the distance even more. It would be interesting to compare your results with an autocal made using Spyder 5 if you had it. Someone believes that Spyder X can be inaccurate at low lights because facing the screen... Doesn't mean necessarily that it returns 0.

[mikiela]

The screen is actually quite big and the distance even more. It would be interesting to compare your results with an autocal made using Spyder 5 if you had it. Someone believes that Spyder X can be inaccurate at low lights because facing the screen... Doesn't mean necessarily that it returns 0.

I also had the SpyderX at 2'.  I am going to move it back to 1' and try it again.  If that doesn't work, I will zoom it in as suggested by dcchan2.

[dcchan2]

When facing the screen the distance does not make a difference, unlike when facing the projector.