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JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

Thanks guys, not sure what it is either.  I do use the i1 Pro2 for color and Spyder X for Gamma only then ChromaPure for checking the results.

I don't know, I tried a few times and it was all over the board.  Part of it is that for HDR/2020 it is setting the color temp to 6200K for 100% and as low as 6000K for 50% so I need to manually drop red and green gain to allow blue to catch up.

Manni

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Thanks guys, not sure what it is either.  I do use the i1 Pro2 for color and Spyder X for Gamma only then ChromaPure for checking the results.

I don't know, I tried a few times and it was all over the board.  Part of it is that for HDR/2020 it is setting the color temp to 6200K for 100% and as low as 6000K for 50% so I need to manually drop red and green gain to allow blue to catch up.
Don't overcorrect when you get such poor color autocal results. This isn't normal. You need to restore the INIT file and do a manual white point calibration until you figure out why you're getting such poor results with your i1pro2 in your HDR/2020 calibration. You are most likely losing a lot of brightness with this flawed color autocal, for no benefit.

Make sure that the i1pro2 is properly placed (facing the screen, 1-2 feet away from it, looking up towards the center of the screen so as not to read its own shadow or any black around the pattern if using windows). Make sure that you use full screen patterns (that's what the Autocal uses and if you use any other pattern size you are overcorrecting, hence losing brightness, I'll add a point 7 in my previous post to clarify this).

My DCI-P3 calibration uses the exact same settings as my HDR10/BT2020 calibration (filter, low lamp, iris open), so I don't need to calibrate it separately, it would simply replace my DCI-P3 calibration. The only difference is that I use the BT2020 color profile instead of the DCI-P3-F color profile, but I don't see how this could make a difference with 6500K gains settings. I'll measure my HDR10/BT2020 calibration when I find the time and I'll let you know if it's any different than my DCI-P3, but I doubt it, unless there is a bug in the software.

I can't comment on Chromapure, I owned it a few years ago but it was very poorly maintained so I got rid of it and never looked back.

I suggest you try HCFR or DisplayCAL to make sure that your readings with the i1pro2 are correct.

Also in the log after the color autocal (you can run a log only just to check this), does the log report 6500K as per the i1pro2, or anything else? Please reset your color temp settings before running the autocal to make sure that the log reports what the Autocal sees. If the log reports something far from 6500K as per the i1pro2, there is something wrong in the i1pro2 or its positioning.
« Last Edit: April 20, 2020, 07:53:47 AM by Manni »

jj-34

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You need to restore the INIT file and do a manual white point calibration until you figure out why you're getting such poor results with your i1pro2 in your HDR/2020 calibration.

Manni, I am not sure what you mean here by a manual white point calibration in autocal.
Can you explain a bit more ?

Manni

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Manni, I am not sure what you mean here by a manual white point calibration in autocal.
Can you explain a bit more ?
Not in Autocal, your color autocal is clearly not working.
So you need to restore the INIT file to reset the wrong autocal calibration and do a manual white point with chromapure instead. You should reclaim a significant amount of brightness that way.
Once you've sorted out why your color autocal isn't working (remember that you can run measurements with Chromapure after a color autocal attempt but before saving it to the PJ), you can use it.
In the meantime, only use gamma only with the Spyder, at least in your HDR/BT2020 calibration, if the i1pro2 works as expected in the others (not sure why that would be the case if you don't move it between calibration, which you shouldn't have to do).
« Last Edit: April 20, 2020, 08:25:20 AM by Manni »

jj-34

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The white point question from me : jj-34 not TCramer , but I still do not know how to do this manual white point calibration, OK I got it it's not in autocal, so is it with another calibration program like HCFR , and do I have to play with the projector's manual settings to obtain this 6500 white point ?
Doesn't that defeat the following autocal where we are supposed to reset all the manual settings ?
I am very confused now .... :-X
A few nights before I finally had a chance to do a few autocal runs and here is what I got ( still only trying to get hands on experience ! )
A full Natural SDR run with my I1d3 : BT 709, low lamp no filter

https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2020/04/18//O8PzJb-2020-04-16-23-09-11-Full-Natural-SDR-with-i1D3.jpg
JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9


The same in User1 but with the i1Pro2 color only :

https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2020/04/18//P8PzJb-2020-04-16-23-39-10-User1-SDR-with-i1pro2.jpg
JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9
 

This one in HDR10 with the i1D3 again but color only and BT2020 and still low lamp :

https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2020/04/18//O8PzJb-2020-04-16-23-15-03-Full-HDR10-HDR-with-i1D3.jpg
JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9


And last the same in User2 with i1Pro2 : Color only, BT2020 filter and low lamp :

https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2020/04/18//P8PzJb-2020-04-16-23-56-09-Color-User2-BT2020-with-i1pro2.jpg
JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

« Last Edit: April 20, 2020, 08:46:07 AM by jj-34 »

Manni

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If you don't use a third-party software (HCFR, Calman, DisplayCAL, Ligthtspace, Chromapure) with a known good meter to fine-tune an autocal, and if the software doesn't force you to do more than a few clicks to correct the white point, what I said about a manual white point calibration doesn't apply to you. It also only apply to the i1pro2, given that one shouldn't be doing a color autocal with an uncorrected Spyder.

jj-34

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If you don't use a third-party software (HCFR, Calman, DisplayCAL, Ligthtspace, Chromapure) with a known good meter to fine-tune an autocal, and if the software doesn't force you to do more than a few clicks to correct the white point, what I said about a manual white point calibration doesn't apply to you. It also only apply to the i1pro2, given that one shouldn't be doing a color autocal with an uncorrected Spyder.
Maybe our posts crossed each other, but have you seen my post above with the autocal logs both with an i1D3 full gamma and  color plus subsequent color only with my i1Pro2 ?

Don't overcorrect when you get such poor color autocal results. This isn't normal. You need to restore the INIT file and do a manual white point calibration until you figure out why you're getting such poor results with your i1pro2 in your HDR/2020 calibration. You are most likely losing a lot of brightness with this flawed color autocal, for no benefit.

Make sure that the i1pro2 is properly placed (facing the screen, 1-2 feet away from it, looking up towards the center of the screen so as not to read its own shadow or any black around the pattern if using windows). Make sure that you use full screen patterns (that's what the Autocal uses and if you use any other pattern size you are overcorrecting, hence losing brightness, I'll add a point 7 in my previous post to clarify this).

My DCI-P3 calibration uses the exact same settings as my HDR10/BT2020 calibration (filter, low lamp, iris open), so I don't need to calibrate it separately, it would simply replace my DCI-P3 calibration. The only difference is that I use the BT2020 color profile instead of the DCI-P3-F color profile, but I don't see how this could make a difference with 6500K gains settings. I'll measure my HDR10/BT2020 calibration when I find the time and I'll let you know if it's any different than my DCI-P3, but I doubt it, unless there is a bug in the software.

I can't comment on Chromapure, I owned it a few years ago but it was very poorly maintained so I got rid of it and never looked back.

I suggest you try HCFR or DisplayCAL to make sure that your readings with the i1pro2 are correct.

Also in the log after the color autocal (you can run a log only just to check this), does the log report 6500K as per the i1pro2, or anything else? Please reset your color temp settings before running the autocal to make sure that the log reports what the Autocal sees. If the log reports something far from 6500K as per the i1pro2, there is something wrong in the i1pro2 or its positioning.

Appreciate the response - I'll restore the init file one more time and give it another shot at some point this week when I get a chance.  I'll grab a few shots of the before/after autocal and report back.

Manni

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Maybe our posts crossed each other, but have you seen my post above with the autocal logs both with an i1D3 full gamma and  color plus subsequent color only with my i1Pro2 ?
No, I saw your post but I don’t see your point, or how it’s connected to the discussion, and as you’re only posting screenshots I can’t read your mind :)

When doing a color only Autocal, only RGBW are taken. All other measurements are informative only and irrelevant to the calibration results. The i1pro2 greyscale measurements are all over the place during the log, which is often the case, but the white measurements seem to be very close between the i1d3 and the i1pro2.

Did I miss something?

jj-34

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No, I saw your post but I don’t see your point, or how it’s connected to the discussion, and as you’re only posting screenshots I can’t read your mind :)

When doing a color only Autocal, only RGBW are taken. All other measurements are informative only and irrelevant to the calibration results. The i1pro2 greyscale measurements are all over the place during the log, which is often the case, but the white measurements seem to be very close between the i1d3 and the i1pro2.

Did I miss something?
Well I am relieved that you can't read my mind, and you're probably not missing anything 8)

What bothered me was how to manually adjust the white balance on the projector, I know how to do it on my monitor using its built in "hardware" menu measured with DisplayCal and the sensor (i1d3 or i1pro2), but that's it.

 About the logs, yes I know that all the gamma charts are the ones done with the i1d3, I only added them to each summary to have a global view,  but I am not knowledgeable enough to understand all those figures, are they good enough or can be improved ? 
In the i1pro2 color chart, the D65 points seem to be scattered a lot contrary to the same with the i1d3 (hdr too), is that something to be concerned ?    

Manni

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Well I am relieved that you can't read my mind, and you're probably not missing anything 8)

What bothered me was how to manually adjust the white balance on the projector, I know how to do it on my monitor using its built in "hardware" menu measured with DisplayCal and the sensor (i1d3 or i1pro2), but that's it.

 About the logs, yes I know that all the gamma charts are the ones done with the i1d3, I only added them to each summary to have a global view,  but I am not knowledgeable enough to understand all those figures, are they good enough or can be improved ? 
In the i1pro2 color chart, the D65 points seem to be scattered a lot contrary to the same with the i1d3 (hdr too), is that something to be concerned ?   
To set 100% white to D65, simply adjust the gains in your color temp preset. Look at the JVC manual if these instructions are unclear. But you don’t really need to do anything because there is no way to know if the i1pro2 is more accurate than the i1d3. Just do color and gamma with your i1d3 and forget about the i1pro2. You don’t need it.

As I said in my reply, the i1pro2 measurements below white are often all over the place. This is irrelevant as the i1pro2 should only be used for color, hence should only ever measure RGBW.

Your results seem good, I would leave it there and enjoy my projector. You have no idea how lucky you are to not be knowledgeable enough to understand all these numbers :)

Watch more films, and do a log only every 200 hours with your i1d3 to see if anything needs to be corrected.
« Last Edit: April 20, 2020, 10:15:39 AM by Manni »

jj-34

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Manni, guess what I only realized now that what you mentioned as grey scale are in fact all those grey points within or nearby the red D65 circle ..... Tells you what a lucky man I am ... ::)

Now next mission ( if I accept it, and I will) is to use HCFR and get my hands on, but for this I need another evening night with nothing on TV worth watching, the misses gone reading in her bedroom and the HC area for me alone .... Ha Ha !
Should not be too long as with the confinment, the TV programs are getting worse and worse. 

If you need more than a few clicks on two gains to set 100% white to D65 after a color calibration with the i1pro2 (it doesn't matter which calibration, 709, P3 or BT2020), something is wrong. -6/-7 for R+G gains on my rec-709 calibration is a lot, and I can't really explain it. -2 on B for my DCI-P3 calibration is more typical of what I would expect.
I observed that without filter the 709 coverage is not perfect and I'm afraid that the autocal procedure might overcorrect green and red. From the results I get, I see that green is not perfectly achieved and same for the red (much less amount of inaccuracy though). Since the autocal software is just measuring the vertex (i.e. saturation 100%) this can potentially lead to overcorrection beyond projector possibilities. Actually you said that with DCI-P3 with filter you didn't have this problem... The fact that without filter 709 coverage is not perfect made me use color filter even for 709. The color accuracy is visibly better and in addition I have a flawless transition between SDR and HDR :)
I suggest to try to activate the filter and check the results.

Manni

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I observed that without filter the 709 coverage is not perfect and I'm afraid that the autocal procedure might overcorrect green and red. From the results I get, I see that green is not perfectly achieved and same for the red (much less amount of inaccuracy though). Since the autocal software is just measuring the vertex (i.e. saturation 100%) this can potentially lead to overcorrection beyond projector possibilities. Actually you said that with DCI-P3 with filter you didn't have this problem... The fact that without filter 709 coverage is not perfect made me use color filter even for 709. The color accuracy is visibly better and in addition I have a flawless transition between SDR and HDR :)
I suggest to try to activate the filter and check the results.
You are confusing undersaturation of gamut primaries and RGB balance at 100% white. Not related to my post. Your rec-709 gamut is undersaturated for green (and/or red), it's a common issue with some JVCs. This can't be corrected and has nothing to do with the JVC Autocal. Using the filter with rec-709 can help, but again it has nothing to do do with what I was talking about.

Manni

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I've added a note in the first step of my recent report here to explain why some might have come to the conclusion that there is more than one gamma range for the same filter/lamp mode combination.

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