JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[Manni]

Hi Jeremy,

Yes, that sounds about right.

[jbn008]

Hi Jeremy,

Yes, that sounds about right.

Thank you Manni

[JonnyVee]

Hi Manni,

What is the best way to test a Spyder for accuracy? You have it listed but no hyperlink yet.

I’m a new x790 owner and using a good portion of your information to teach myself. I don’t have i1Pro2, but do have a i1 Display Pro and Calman Enthusiast. 

Thank you!

[denist]

Hi Guys,

I have the X5900(AKA X590) With the Spyder Elite and the i1Pro UVCUT Spectro REV D. I have done the GAMMA with the Spyder and when i do the Color i am facing issue only once did it complete the colour correctly. All future Colour calibration attempt fails with the colour going haywire. It completes the greyscale test and colour test. the it completes the colour calabration. When it starts the LOG and send to projector the RED colour becomes ORANGE and everything this is off. I ahve not done a re instate as it never asks me to. I am wondering should i put the i1Pro in the plate before pressing the i1 Pro Icon in JVC Autocal. Can this be the issue i am facing??

Many thanks in advanced.

Denis

[Manni]

Hi Manni,

What is the best way to test a Spyder for accuracy? You have it listed but no hyperlink yet.

I’m a new x790 owner and using a good portion of your information to teach myself. I don’t have i1Pro2, but do have a i1 Display Pro and Calman Enthusiast.

Thank you!

Hi Jonny,

The best way to test a Spyder for accuracy is to use your i1d3 with Calman to look at 100% white and a gamut chart before the autocal, run a color only autocal, set your screen type in the JVC to take the screen into account (you don't have to do this when using an i1pro2 reading off the screen), and see again with the i1d3/Calman if the Spyder made things worse or better.

If worse, you know that it's better not to use it for color but only for gamma, and if better see how far it is after the autocal. A good Spyder will only require a few clicks at most on a couple of channels after a color autocal. The more correction it needs, the worse the Spyder is.

You can't really see how accurate they are when measuring off the screen, as the errors might be very different from when reading off the PJ lens, and it's the accuracy when reading off the lens that matters with the Spyder, not when reading off the screen.

And looking at the accuracy when reading off the lens is also difficult because it depends on how accurate your reference meter with its diffuser. My i1pro2 isn't very accurate with its diffuser when reading off the lens, so I wouldn't use it to decide if a Spyder is accurate or not.

So do a precal read, run a color autocal, set the screen type, do a post-cal read and see how far you are is my advice.

If you are very far, you can always restore the last state as it's saved by the Autocal after you save the results.

EDIT: you can also measure witht i1d3/Calman after the autocal *before* saving the results, so if it's better you save, otherwise you can cancel before saving.

One important thing: when using another software, always use full patterns to match the pattern size used by the autocal. In fact if you don't use the full size of the panel the Autocal patterns are a bit larger because it seems the software use the full size of the panels, even when your source sends a 16/9 signal to the Autocal during calibration. This can cause some discrepancy when comparing measurements, but it should only affect luminance, not color.

[Manni]

Hi Guys,

I have the X5900(AKA X590) With the Spyder Elite and the i1Pro UVCUT Spectro REV D. I have done the GAMMA with the Spyder and when i do the Color i am facing issue only once did it complete the colour correctly. All future Colour calibration attempt fails with the colour going haywire. It completes the greyscale test and colour test. the it completes the colour calabration. When it starts the LOG and send to projector the RED colour becomes ORANGE and everything this is off. I ahve not done a re instate as it never asks me to. I am wondering should i put the i1Pro in the plate before pressing the i1 Pro Icon in JVC Autocal. Can this be the issue i am facing??

Many thanks in advanced.

Denis

Hi Denist,

I have no advice specific to the i1pro UV Cut as it's not officially supported, maybe someone using it will comment.
However, yes you do have to put it on the plate when you first connect.

It goes like this:

1) Put the i1pro on its matching calibration tile.
2) Select the i1pro on the screen
3) After 1-2 secs, the pattern on the screen will briefly flash. That's when the i1pro is detected and connected.
4) Immediately press the button on the i1pro to do a white calibration.
5) The software should now show the aiming window. Simply ignore it as it seems to be entirely pointless for the i1pro
6) Set the i1pro on a tripod about two-three feet from the screen, facing the screen, aiming towards the center of the screen, making sure that it's not reading its own shadow (or any other meter shadow) but the centre of the screen.


Good luck!

[denist]

Hi Manni,

Thanks and yes the issue was that i never put it on the plate for each CAL. And thanks for the tip to push the button when the screen flashes as i have never done this.

At least i can confirm the i1pro UVCUT Rev D works with Autocal V10.

[JonnyVee]

Hi Jonny,

The best way to test a Spyder for accuracy is to use your i1d3 with Calman to look at 100% white and a gamut chart before the autocal, run a color only autocal, set your screen type in the JVC to take the screen into account (you don't have to do this when using an i1pro2 reading off the screen), and see again with the i1d3/Calman if the Spyder made things worse or better.

If worse, you know that it's better not to use it for color but only for gamma, and if better see how far it is after the autocal. A good Spyder will only require a few clicks at most on a couple of channels after a color autocal. The more correction it needs, the worse the Spyder is.

You can't really see how accurate they are when measuring off the screen, as the errors might be very different from when reading off the PJ lens, and it's the accuracy when reading off the lens that matters with the Spyder, not when reading off the screen.

And looking at the accuracy when reading off the lens is also difficult because it depends on how accurate your reference meter with its diffuser. My i1pro2 isn't very accurate with its diffuser when reading off the lens, so I wouldn't use it to decide if a Spyder is accurate or not.

So do a precal read, run a color autocal, set the screen type, do a post-cal read and see how far you are is my advice.

If you are very far, you can always restore the last state as it's saved by the Autocal after you save the results.

EDIT: you can also measure witht i1d3/Calman after the autocal *before* saving the results, so if it's better you save, otherwise you can cancel before saving.

One important thing: when using another software, always use full patterns to match the pattern size used by the autocal. In fact if you don't use the full size of the panel the Autocal patterns are a bit larger because it seems the software use the full size of the panels, even when your source sends a 16/9 signal to the Autocal during calibration. This can cause some discrepancy when comparing measurements, but it should only affect luminance, not color.

Thank you!

[JonnyVee]

Hi Manni - One more question. As you mentioned, Autocal requires me to set the screen type via Screen Adjuestment mode. However, I have a Silver Ticket white screen, which is not listed by JVC.

Are there known mode #s that correlate to Silver Ticket screens? Specifically, white matte 1.1 gain?

[Manni]

Hi Manni - One more question. As you mentioned, Autocal requires me to set the screen type via Screen Adjuestment mode. However, I have a Silver Ticket white screen, which is not listed by JVC.

Are there known mode #s that correlate to Silver Ticket screens? Specifically, white matte 1.1 gain?

I don't know the screen type that would match the Silver Ticket screen, that would be a question for JVC (though Mike Garrett or Craig Peer might know this, worth PMing either of them if they don't comment back here).

As you have Calman and an i1d3, you could try the following in the meantime, after you've run a color autocal:

- Get a 100% white patch on screen (full pattern)
- Set your i1d3 to read off the screen
- Cycle through the screen types and see if there is one that improves the reading rather than make it worse.
- Select the one that minimizes the errors, then run a full greyscale and gamut read with that screen type and check if the results are better across the board, or it it makes it worse in places.

What you want is a screen type that minimize the amount of RGB gains corrections you'll have to apply, especially in HDR, in order to keep as much brightness as possible.

There is nothing magic about each screen type, they just apply internal offsets to counter-balance the color shift induced by each screen. My Carada BW is fairly color neutral, the screen type is 006, it does nothing that I can see .

[AVSCraig]

Hi Manni - One more question. As you mentioned, Autocal requires me to set the screen type via Screen Adjuestment mode. However, I have a Silver Ticket white screen, which is not listed by JVC.

Are there known mode #s that correlate to Silver Ticket screens? Specifically, white matte 1.1 gain?

I don't see it here - https://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/projector/screen/

Maybe someone can compare a Stewart Cima Neve sample with the Silver Ticket screen. 

[JonnyVee]

After some testing i chose the Da-lite Matte white (#7) as a match for the Silver Ticket. Not my final selection, as I redid my SDR-709 autocal low lamp passes yesterday and will redo Calman tomorrow night.

The Spyder 5 elite I used is quite accurate from a color perspective. Just a single -1 click for both red and blue hue.

@Manni - Thank for your instructions. Very very helpful. A few questions on my workflow ...

I have a user mode for SDR-709 and one for SDR-DCI P3.

For SDR-709 user mode (user1-picture mode, Standard-color profile, 6500k- color temp, Normal (2.2)- gamma, and low lamp) I did both gamma and color 33-point autocal calibrations @ iris 0, 4, 8, and 12. I’ll then be repeating with high lamp mode under User 1 as well.

• I’m assuming doing autocals this way, my SDR-709 user mode will allow me to change iris and/or lamp settings and have all combinations calibrated ... correct assumption?
  
• When I run autocal at each iris position, do I still need to run both gamma and color at 4, 8, and 12 after doing both at iris 0? ... or do I just need to run one of them after running both at iris 0?
• When i rerun User 1/SDR-709 profile in high lamp at each iris, do I need to run both color and gamma at each iris?

When I run my SDR-DCI P3 (user mode 2, color profile - HDR, Custom 1 - color temp, User 1- gamma @ 2.2, low lamp) ... I’ll doing the same testing workflow. (1) Autocal gamma and color @0, 4, 8, & 12, and (2) run a high lamp set.

[Manni]

Hi JonnyVee,

Glad you found the instructions useful, and great to hear that your Spyder is a keeper! One click on red and blue is very good.

Re your question, you only need to run gamma 33 steps once for each lamp / filter combination.

Running it more than once simply replaces the last one.

To maximise low lights readings, I recommend running the gamma autocal with the iris fully open. You should then be able to run each following color autocal without having to move the meter.

So for you, it would go like this:

Rec-709 (User 1)
0. Set the meter so it's to the right side of the box
1. Run Gamma + color autocal low lamp iris 0.
2. Run Color only autocal low lamp iris -4,-8, -12 (no need to move the meter)
3. Set lamp to high, move the meter back during the next step otherwise the patterns will be too bright
4. Run Gamma + color autocal high lamp iris 0
5. Run Color only autocal high lamp iris -4, -8, 12  (no need to move the meter from previous position)

DCI-P3 (User 2)
Do exactly the same as above, as the filter is engaged so it's different slots for the calibrations with low/high lamp.

Once you've done this, you'll be able to change freely between iris, filter and lamp positions for these two calibrations.

Good luck!

[riddle]

Hi JonnyVee,

Glad you found the instructions useful, and great to hear that your Spyder is a keeper! One click on red and blue is very good.

Re your question, you only need to run gamma 33 steps once for each lamp / filter combination.

Running it more than once simply replaces the last one.

To maximise low lights readings, I recommend running the gamma autocal with the iris fully open. You should then be able to run each following color autocal without having to move the meter.

So for you, it would go like this:

Rec-709 (User 1)
0. Set the meter so it's to the right side of the box
1. Run Gamma + color autocal low lamp iris 0.
2. Run Color only autocal low lamp iris -4,-8, -12 (no need to move the meter)
3. Set lamp to high, move the meter back during the next step otherwise the patterns will be too bright
4. Run Gamma + color autocal high lamp iris 0
5. Run Color only autocal high lamp iris -4, -8, 12  (no need to move the meter from previous position)

DCI-P3 (User 2)
Do exactly the same as above, as the filter is engaged so it's different slots for the calibrations with low/high lamp.

Once you've done this, you'll be able to change freely between iris, filter and lamp positions for these two calibrations.

Good luck!

Hi, I'm a little confused now "Color only autocal" is directed to the screen right? Or front to projector?

And thats "Color only autocal low lamp iris -4,-8, -12" its on some specific saved setings?

http://www.heimkino-vorfuehrung.de/HDR-Tuning/Workshop_zur_JVC-AutoKalibrierung.pdf


Thanks

[JonnyVee]

Hi, I'm a little confused now "Color only autocal" is directed to the screen right? Or front to projector?

And thats "Color only autocal low lamp iris -4,-8, -12" its on some specific saved setings?

http://www.heimkino-vorfuehrung.de/HDR-Tuning/Workshop_zur_JVC-AutoKalibrierung.pdf


Thanks

1. You do the color only autocal with the Spyder facing the screen.
2. Once done the color/gamma at 0 iris. You go back to the settings screen from the main page of the autocal software. Under calibration type, unclick “color + gamma” and then click “color” .
3. Go back to the main screen and click back into the calibration screen. Once in the picture mode settings menu, adjust iris to 4 (then iris 8 and 12 on the 3rd and fourth passes). You don’t need to use the remote to adjust iris. All other settings stay the same.

i also have a X-rite i1 Display Pro and Calman. Once done autocal, I’ll use this to adjust gamma, white balance and color.

** Note. I’m using v10 Autocal and have an x790.