JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[natewalck]

I figure its most appropiate to post about Autocal stuff here vs the other thread, so I'll repost my HDR calibration for Gamma and now the calibration for Color as well (using the i1Pro).

If these look off, let me know what I should try in order to fix it. I'm hoping its close now

Here is Gamma using the SpyderX:

JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

And then the Color Charts after calibration using the i1Pro:

JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[natewalck]

Thanks for all your work on this Manni! I wanted to ask for a few questions for clarification and perhaps some suggestions for the guide, especially for calibration noobs like myself


1. For the sensor placement, do you center it perfectly on the screen an point it directly at its own shadow? Or do you angle it up slightly? (If so, how much is sufficient and how do you know when it is not correct?) See attached photo for how I interpreted the directions (wrongly, I believe, as I had it off to the left pointing towards the center of the screen at a 45 degree angle.).

2. For calibration, I saw SirMaster had mentioned he calibrated using the following picture modes:

User1 (HDR color profile, D6500 color temp, 2.2 gamma, low bulb)
User2 (HDR color profile, D6500 color temp, 2.2 gamma, high bulb)
User3 (rec709 color profile, D6500 color temp, 2.2 gamma, low bulb)
User4 (rec709 color profile, D6500 color temp, 2.2 gamma, high bulb)


If one does Gamma (SpyderX) + Color (i1Pro) on each of these 4 modes (8 total calibrations), does that cover all the existing factory modes as well? If so, is it worth specifically telling people to create these profiles in the basic guide, assuming that advanced users will know if they need it or not. Knowing the minimum viable picture mode settings to use for calibration at the outset would greatly simplify things in my view (I had to poke around to figure out what others used).

This is fantastic work and I'd never have even considered doing calibration myself if you hadn't spent the immense amount of time and love on this documentation.

JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[SirMaster]

Thanks for all your work on this Manni! I wanted to ask for a few questions for clarification and perhaps some suggestions for the guide, especially for calibration noobs like myself


1. For the sensor placement, do you center it perfectly on the screen an point it directly at its own shadow? Or do you angle it up slightly? (If so, how much is sufficient and how do you know when it is not correct?) See attached photo for how I interpreted the directions (wrongly, I believe, as I had it off to the left pointing towards the center of the screen at a 45 degree angle.).

2. For calibration, I saw SirMaster had mentioned he calibrated using the following picture modes:

User1 (HDR color profile, D6500 color temp, 2.2 gamma, low bulb)
User2 (HDR color profile, D6500 color temp, 2.2 gamma, high bulb)
User3 (rec709 color profile, D6500 color temp, 2.2 gamma, low bulb)
User4 (rec709 color profile, D6500 color temp, 2.2 gamma, high bulb)


If one does Gamma (SpyderX) + Color (i1Pro) on each of these 4 modes (8 total calibrations), does that cover all the existing factory modes as well? If so, is it worth specifically telling people to create these profiles in the basic guide, assuming that advanced users will know if they need it or not. Knowing the minimum viable picture mode settings to use for calibration at the outset would greatly simplify things in my view (I had to poke around to figure out what others used).

This is fantastic work and I'd never have even considered doing calibration myself if you hadn't spent the immense amount of time and love on this documentation.

JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

it looks like you should move the meter at least a little farther away and angle it up a bit more. 

You don’t want it reading it’s shadow. 

Also I don’t have anything like those 4 user modes for calibration. 

In fact, 2 of those modes would lead to a redundant calibration since the “HDR” color profile means the wide color filter is off (if you are using an NX7/9). 

If you wanted to calibrate an NX7/9 more throughly you would perpahs run 4 autocal like you wrote, but you would use BT.2020 color profile rather than HDR profile as this would engage the filter. 


However, you should only calibrate the modes you actually use which might be low bulb for SDR and high bulb for HDR. 


So your SDR calibration might look like: User1, D6500, rec709, 2.2 gamma, low bulb. 


And your HDR calibration might like like: User2, D6500, BT.2020, 2.2 gamma, high bulb. 

You might also use a different bulb mode for each calibration, or you might use HDR color profile in place of BT.2020 (if you don’t want to use the wide color profile, or have an NX5)

You might also close down your manual iris to something other than position 0. 

But you likely only need 2 autocal runs each with the projector in a user mode that encompasses your settings for SDR and then the other for HDR settings that will be used with Frame Adapt HDR mode. 

Thought it also sounds like JVC is going for to somehow support a more direct Frame Adapt HDR autocal calibration with the new firmware update and autocal update mid to late November. So this information could change. 

[natewalck]

it looks like you should move the meter at least a little farther away and angle it up a bit more.

You don’t want it reading it’s shadow.

Also I don’t have anything like those 4 user modes for calibration.

In fact, 2 of those modes would lead to a redundant calibration since the “HDR” color profile means the wide color filter is off (if you are using an NX7/9).

If you wanted to calibrate an NX7/9 more throughly you would perpahs run 4 autocal like you wrote, but you would use BT.2020 color profile rather than HDR profile as this would engage the filter.


However, you should only calibrate the modes you actually use which might be low bulb for SDR and high bulb for HDR.


So your SDR calibration might look like: User1, D6500, rec709, 2.2 gamma, low bulb.


And your HDR calibration might like like: User2, D6500, BT.2020, 2.2 gamma, high bulb.

You might also use a different bulb mode for each calibration, or you might use HDR color profile in place of BT.2020 (if you don’t want to use the wide color profile, or have an NX5)

You might also close down your manual iris to something other than position 0.

But you likely only need 2 autocal runs each with the projector in a user mode that encompasses your settings for SDR and then the other for HDR settings that will be used with Frame Adapt HDR mode.

Thought it also sounds like JVC is going for to somehow support a more direct Frame Adapt HDR autocal calibration with the new firmware update and autocal update mid to late November. So this information could change.

Thanks for the notes. I got the user mode stuff from this post: https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=1850.msg11565#msg11565

I'm on a NX5/RS1000, Silver Ticket 120" 1.1 gain, light controlled room (blacked out basement, only flaw is lighter carpet)

As for Low vs High lamp, I noticed on high lamp post-calibration that dark scenes in 1917 were super washed out/gray instead of black, but switching to low lamp, they had much much better contrast and deeper blacks. Will I lose a ton of color in low lamp post-calibration? I was planning on calibrating low lamp as well.

Also note, in that picture, it is off center (to the left) and then pointed towards the center of the screen at a 45 degree angle. I'll redo calibration with it dead center, but angled up a little bit instead.

Thanks again!

[Sittler27]

I have an i1DisplayPro meter (EODIS3) and I've heard that by using the "fakesensor" dll found here:
https://github.com/scyomantion/FakeSensor

that you can have this meter work with JVC autocal software.

I've tried to follow the instructions at that link after downloading the files for it, but some are not accurate and I get lost.

For example, while I can find and backup dccmtr.dll in the JVC folder, I can't find the same name dll from this project to replace it with.  Instead, there are files of the same name but without .dll suffix.

Any help or more exact instructions would be great!

[jj-34]

I have an i1DisplayPro meter (EODIS3) and I've heard that by using the "fakesensor" dll found here:
https://github.com/scyomantion/FakeSensor

that you can have this meter work with JVC autocal software.

I've tried to follow the instructions at that link after downloading the files for it, but some are not accurate and I get lost.

For example, while I can find and backup dccmtr.dll in the JVC folder, I can't find the same name dll from this project to replace it with.  Instead, there are files of the same name but without .dll suffix.

Any help or more exact instructions would be great!

You must download the FakeSensor-Win32-v0.1.1.zip package, unzip it into the JVC folder and read the Readme.md that gives the installation instructions.
But you also have to download and install the ArgyllCMS package.
This version of the hack allows to use all the sensors supported by ArgyllCMS but is a bit more complicated to install than the first version that was for the i1 Display Pro only but it was self-contained and straight forward. 

[Sittler27]

You must download the FakeSensor-Win32-v0.1.1.zip package, unzip it into the JVC folder and read the Readme.md that gives the installation instructions.
But you also have to download and install the ArgyllCMS package.
This version of the hack allows to use all the sensors supported by ArgyllCMS but is a bit more complicated to install than the first version that was for the i1 Display Pro only but it was self-contained and straight forward.

Ok, had tried that but will try again.
However, I believe I have another issue now:  my i1displaypro (EODIS3) is no longer recognized in Windows.  Device Manager shows "device descriptor request failed" error beside it in the USB section.
I also get this same error across several Windows laptops and one macos one (doesn't recognize USB device).

This is after reinstalling i1profiler several times and within that program trying to reset device.  can never recognize the eodis3 anymore.
It's several years old, and whiel it worked for a while, I had cracked the case screwing it on too tight to a tripod a year back or so.

Do you think I should just replace it with another?

[jj-34]

Ok, had tried that but will try again.
However, I believe I have another issue now:  my i1displaypro (EODIS3) is no longer recognized in Windows.  Device Manager shows "device descriptor request failed" error beside it in the USB section.


Do you think I should just replace it with another?

I am afraid that is a definitive statement .... probably time to direct it to the dust bin 

[dcchan2]

This version of the hack allows to use all the sensors supported by ArgyllCMS but is a bit more complicated to install than the first version that was for the i1 Display Pro only but it was self-contained and straight forward.

The first version requires the x-rite software so that has to be installed. For this same reason, it only works with the retail version of i1D3, not the OEM version. 

[bmoney]

My auto cal says error in detecting model. I am using spyder5 how do I fix this. 

Thanks 

[dcchan2]

My auto cal says error in detecting model. I am using spyder5 how do I fix this.

Thanks

Which projector do you have? Are you using v11?

[bmoney]

I can connect the CPU to the PJ

But when I hit calibrate I get that error measage

Yes software 11 v 1.2
Rs600

[SirMaster]

I can connect the CPU to the PJ

But when I hit calibrate I get that error measage

Yes software 11 v 1.2
Rs600

You need autocal 7 v1.0 for RS600.

[bmoney]

You need autocal 7 v1.0 for RS600.

tried that. Same message came up

[AVSMike]

New autocal manual from JVC.