JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

Shawn1 · « **Reply #1200 on:** October 10, 2020, 02:21:10 PM »

Hi all! New to the game. Nx7,spyderx did gamma and color. The bt2020 is really grey and washed out. I’ve playing with this all week. Really need help. I have followed all the step by step instructions but no go. I want to reset the projector to factory but it looks
Like there is only 1 .ini file is this normal. Help please.

Philnick · « **Reply #1201 on:** October 10, 2020, 03:09:55 PM »

Quote from: Shawn1 on October 10, 2020, 02:21:10 PM

Hi all! New to the game. Nx7,spyderx did gamma and color. The bt2020 is really grey and washed out. I’ve playing with this all week. Really need help. I have followed all the step by step instructions but no go. I want to reset the projector to factory but it looks
Like there is only 1 .ini file is this normal. Help please.

There should only be the one ini file. Have Autocal load it into the JVC and that'll undo the calibrations you did. (Copy the ini file to a safe place, like your Dropbox, as it's the only way to get back to the factory calibration if you need to.)

Then have the Spyder do just a gamma calibration and look on eBay for an i1Pro 2, an i1Pro Rev. E, or an EFI ES-2000, They are all the same device. You should be able to find one for $300 or so. (I got an EFI that way a week or so ago.) Make sure the listing says it comes with the calibration plate, which has a white tile under a slider, You have to sit the probe on that to do a quick self calibration before each use.

if you go to the X-Rite web site you can download the manual, which has a diagram showing what its accessories look like, and the i1Diagnostics program that will install the driver Autocal needs to use it.

Use that probe with Autocal to calibrate the color. Look back a few pages on this thread for a link for a $10 tripod cell phone selfie mount if the probe you get doesn't have a tripod mount.

Shawn1 · « **Reply #1202 on:** October 10, 2020, 05:37:06 PM »

Thank you. I’m in Canada and hard to find X-Rite cheap. There is a place that sells X-Rite I’ve attached a photo. Please
Let me know if these will work?

Shawn

Philnick · « **Reply #1203 on:** October 10, 2020, 06:20:55 PM »

Quote from: Shawn1 on October 10, 2020, 05:37:06 PM

Thank you. I’m in Canada and hard to find X-Rite cheap. There is a place that sells X-Rite I’ve attached a photo. Please
Let me know if these will work?

Shawn

Nope. Those are completely different items.

You have to search for i1Pro 2, i1Pro Rev. E, and EFI ES-2000, as separate searches, to find all the choices available.

As they are discontinued, you most likely will only be able to find them used, which means eBay. (New, this is an over$1,000 item. Used, you can find them for $300 or so.)

Don't you have access to eBay in Canada?

Philnick · « **Reply #1204 on:** October 11, 2020, 12:16:55 PM »

Found a better way to A/B calibrated and uncalibrated, as long as you've only calibrated in one lamp setting (High or Low).

Instead of doing "the iris slide" in HDR10 mode with Manual Iris to get out of the calibrated range, which doesn't toggle the gamma calibration and gives you a watered-down image compared to Frame Adapt (because you don't have the projector's tone mapping in HDR10 mode):

Stay in Frame Adapt mode, with your favorite settings.
Click on Frame Adapt to get to the screen to configure Frame Adapt, and
Move down to and toggle the Lamp Level between High and Low. (The left and right arrow keys will let you do this easily, and you don't even have to reverse direction as each tap, in either direction, will toggle it to the other setting.)

If you've only calibrated in one lamp level setting, this will toggle both the gamma and the color calibrations on and off. Yes, there's a bit of a brightness difference between the two lamp settings - but not as much as I had expected. With my RS1000 (N5/NX5) I normally run in (and calibrated for) Lamp High, since I use a large 0.93 low gain screen at maximum zoom, but toggling to Lamp Low was only a little different in terms of average brightness. The difference in contrast and color was much greater, and this gives me an easy way to demo the benefits of calibration for a guest.

dcchan2 · « **Reply #1205 on:** October 11, 2020, 12:34:29 PM »

Quote from: Philnick on October 11, 2020, 12:16:55 PM

h your favorite settings.
If you've only calibrated in one lamp level setting, this will toggle both the gamma and the color calibrations on and off. Yes, there's a bit of a brightness difference between the two lamp settings - but not as much as I had expected. With my RS1000 (N5/NX5) I normally run in (and calibrated for) Lamp High, since I use a large 0.93 low gain screen at maximum zoom, but toggling to Lamp Low was only a little different in terms of average brightness. The difference in contrast and color was much greater, and this gives me an easy way to demo the benefits of calibration for a guest.

When A/B testing speakers, one fundamental requirement is to equalize the SPLs of the speakers being compared, as the loudness has a profound influence on the assessment of other sound characteristics.
Similar consideration applies when comparing projected pictures - a difference of 40% in brightness (between high and low lamp) will have a major influence on the assessment of the “picture quality”. Not only that, even when both are in their default factory settings, there are significant differences between high and low lamp (gamut, colour temp, etc), so you would be seeing many other differences in your way of comparison, not attributable to the Before/After calibration.
EDIT: Another major consideration is the image stability when toggling the lamp power. JVC recommends waiting for 30 minutes after power up before calibration. IIRC, if you change the lamp power while running autocal, a message pops up on screen saying you should wait for 30 minutes again. That’s another reason toggling lamp power does not provide an accurate comparison, even if both lamp settings have been calibrated.

Shawn1 · « **Reply #1206 on:** October 11, 2020, 03:25:15 PM »

Omg. A little confusing but I’ll work through it. All your insight is super helpful. I really appreciate it. Wondering if you could walk me through a step by step?

Shawn

DarkTemplar · « **Reply #1207 on:** October 13, 2020, 03:23:37 PM »

I'm in a living-room setup, so white walls.
I have a NX7, projecting to a Stewart GrayHawk RS G4, Gain 0.9, width 3,0m (118"), Aspect Ratio 2,4:1.
Now I got a 350€ i1pro2 off ebay and an new Spyder X Pro to get the job done right - they should arrive this week.

After days of reading, I read all the guides and manuals, I still have some questions, I hope you can help me with that:

a) I'm using the lens zoom to zoom to the 2,4:1 picture for movies and leave it to 16:9 for series. When doing the calibration, should I use my 2,4:1 preset, or leave it to 16:9?

b) Manni stated that he set the iris to -12 for REC-709 calibration. Why is it -12? From what I understand is that he's aiming for a certain fl / lux in SDR-Mode. Which fl / lux value should I be aiming for? Will the spyder or ipro / JVC Calibrationsoftware gibe this fl/lux value or do I need a meter for this?

c) Is the Spyder X Pro facing the screen for doing Gamma?

d) There seems to be not many users who did the environment setting. As I'm in a living room, this seems to be a good idea. Is this done AFTER Gamma + Color or before?

e) It has been stated to do gamma first, then color and vice versa. Which is the best / correct way to do them?

Philnick · « **Reply #1208 on:** October 13, 2020, 04:51:38 PM »

The Spyder X, like the i1Pro 2, reads off the screen, not the lens.

Lens zoom and cropping have no direct effect on calibration.

The calibration is only directly affected by:

1) Lamp power (low versus high),

2) Maximum iris opening (set in Manual and calibrated that way - you can turn on Dynamic Iris afterwards)

and

3) Use or not of the Wide Gamut Color filter

Use of different lens magnification and cropping for different aspect ratios might lead you to vary one of the above, in which case a separate calibration would be needed, but if you leave the three numbered factors fixed, you only need to do one gamma+color calibration.

It is customary to calibrate gamma first.

Be sure to copy the first calibration backup file, which will have the letters "ini" in the filename, into a very safe place, as it is the only way to restore the projector to factory calibration, by having Autocal reload that file into the projector. The menu option in the projector to restore defaults does not restore the calibration tables, just the menu settings.

As I have no windows, grey carpet, and matte black walls and ceiling in the front half of my room, I didn't use the environment routine - someone else will have to advise you about that - and about fl / lux, which I know nothing about.

RamsX · « **Reply #1209 on:** October 14, 2020, 05:12:41 PM »

Quote from: DarkTemplar on October 13, 2020, 03:23:37 PM

I'm in a living-room setup, so white walls.
I have a NX7, projecting to a Stewart GrayHawk RS G4, Gain 0.9, width 3,0m (118"), Aspect Ratio 2,4:1.
Now I got a 350€ i1pro2 off ebay and an new Spyder X Pro to get the job done right - they should arrive this week.

After days of reading, I read all the guides and manuals, I still have some questions, I hope you can help me with that:

b) Manni stated that he set the iris to -12 for REC-709 calibration. Why is it -12? From what I understand is that he's aiming for a certain fl / lux in SDR-Mode. Which fl / lux value should I be aiming for? Will the spyder or ipro / JVC Calibrationsoftware gibe this fl/lux value or do I need a meter for this?

Many projector owners with bat-caves prefer peak white of 60 NITS for movie watching.
Well, I don't 😊
I have good light control, but my room is not a bat-cave and I also like to watch movies, series and sports with some ambient light, so for SDR/Rec.709 I use iris fully open in low lamp. And for HDR my iris is also fully open but in high lamp (and filter OFF).
I like it bright👀

Disclaimer: I have the JVC X7900, but waiting for a N7.

danbez · « **Reply #1210 on:** October 14, 2020, 08:29:32 PM »

Should I reset all constrast/brightness/etc settings before I run a new Gamma/Color calibration? I assume they wouldn't be valid after the calibration anyway.

Thanks

DarkTemplar · « **Reply #1211 on:** October 15, 2020, 02:10:50 AM »

Its somewhere in the Guide that you should. I am gonna Screenshot All Setting and reset them.

jj-34 · « **Reply #1212 on:** October 16, 2020, 04:37:18 AM »

Autocal by itself will not use any manual user settings while running the calibration process, but will add them to its new base when doing the second Logs only run, thus the Logs will not show the actual projector settings and may be misleading.
You can run an actual autocal having removed the manual settings, screen copy the logs, then do a new Logs only run after re-installing your manual settings and compare the two Logs outputs.

DarkTemplar · « **Reply #1213 on:** October 16, 2020, 07:43:31 AM »

I did my first autocal. Can some give some thoughts on what I'm seeing? Gamma seems clear to my, the colors not so much.

Gamma, natural, no filter, low lamp, no iris: