JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[jj-34]

The hide button is not the best way to do it as it takes several seconds to swith back and forth and allows your eyes to accomodate, instead use the mask facility, make it to the max on all 4 sides, this will give you the surrounding maximum black the projector can produce and real time compare to the remaining 0 IRE (black) image remaining in the center and with iris on manual 0 adjust your luminosity, this will definitively fix your black level, no need to go further it won't get blacker.

Attached is a 3840x2160 true black picture ( all digital zeroes )

[Philnick]

The hide button is not the best way to do it as it takes several seconds to swith back and forth and allows your eyes to accomodate, instead use the mask facility, make it to the max on all 4 sides, this will give you the surrounding maximum black the projector can produce and real time compare to the remaining 0 IRE (black) image remaining in the center and with iris on manual 0 adjust your luminosity, this will definitively fix your black level, no need to go further it won't get blacker.

Attached is a 3840x2160 true black picture ( all digital zeroes )

I've downloaded that image. Thank you for it. I gather (from the projector's manual) that I use my Installation Mode that's set for Aspect:Auto and turn on the Masking on that mode's menu so I can compare it to the darkness of the surrounding mask.

I then select the Frame Adapt Picture Mode and HDR Color Profile and on that screen I can access the Brightness control. (Should I do this in the BT.709 Color Profile first?)

Once I've chosen my preferred brightness setting for a Color Profile is that applied globally wherever that Color Profile is used?

But how do I get the image you sent me into the projector to display it?

PS Since Autocal doesn't touch either full black or full white, should I do something analogous to set the Contrast (white level) control?

[jj-34]

I've downloaded that image. Thank you for it. I gather (from the projector's manual) that I use my Installation Mode that's set for Aspect:Auto and turn on the Masking on that mode's menu so I can compare it to the darkness of the surrounding mask.

I then select the Frame Adapt Picture Mode and HDR Color Profile and on that screen I can access the Brightness control. (Should I do this in the BT.709 Color Profile first?)

Once I've chosen my preferred brightness setting for a Color Profile is that applied globally wherever that Color Profile is used?

But how do I get the image you sent me into the projector to display it?

PS Since Autocal doesn't touch either full black or full white, should I do something analogous to set the Contrast (white level) control?

Yes indeed, luminosity is "brightness" in english !

and it is set under the picture adjust main menu, I am not sure if it varies according to any other setting, projector black floor level is black floor level, I don't see whatever any SDR or HDR or Frame Adapt will change to that  ?
But I will have to power on my projector to check it, never thought about it before 

As per the picture I enclosed it is just that a picture in png format,  copy it to a thumb drive and stick it into your mediaserver and display it, what else ?

[Philnick]

Yes indeed, luminosity is "brightness" in english !

and it is set under the picture adjust main menu, I am not sure if it varies according to any other setting, projector black floor level is black floor level, I don't see whatever any SDR or HDR or Frame Adapt will change to that  ?
But I will have to power on my projector to check it, never thought about it before

As per the picture I enclosed it is just that a picture in png format,  copy it to a thumb drive and stick it into your mediaserver and display it, what else ?

It looks like the easiest way to get that png onto the screen would be to bring it up on the PC that's connected to my AVR by HDMI inside any graphics program - whether Paint or IrfanView - in "full screen" mode.

[dcchan2]

The Brightness control is unique to each Picture Mode, so you have to adjust that for every Picture Mode that you use.

The adjustment must be done with the black pattern displayed on the device you use to watch movies, so unless you use an HTPC there’s not much point in displaying it on a PC.  Also, you should use a black pattern video file, not a still image.  An SDR pattern is OK for that, as long as the projector is in the “correct” Picture Mode. 

[Philnick]

The Brightness control is unique to each Picture Mode, so you have to adjust that for every Picture Mode that you use.

The adjustment must be done with the black pattern displayed on the device you use to watch movies, so unless you use an HTPC there’s not much point in displaying it on a PC.

1)  It seems that under Picture Mode you have to select a color profile (BT.709, HDR, etc.) within which you set brightness, from my reading of the manual.  I assume those apply to any mode that uses that color profile.  Should I do this for BT.709 first, and then tweak it for HDR?  (I'm using an RS-1000, which doesn't have BT.2020.)

2)  I watch movies with an Oppo UDP-203 and a pair of 4K streamers, a 2019 nVidia Shield - the base model without a USB jack, and a 2019 Roku Ultra.  All are plugged into my AVR, a Yamaha Aventage RX-A3070, the HDMI output of which goes to the JVC.

How would you suggest I get a black pattern on screen?  Should I simply use the Spears & Munsil UHD disk's brightness adjustment screen, which has four vertical black bars on a black background, of which the left two bars are supposed to be invisible?  (I did some reading just now in the PDF from their site about how to use the disk.)

It sounds like this could be set optimally for only one of my sources, and would be sub-optimal for the other two.

Since I'm happy with my image right now - and I don't see the black letterbox or pillarbox bars when watching a film - maybe I should just skip this step and go straight to AutoCal?

[dcchan2]

1)  It seems that under Picture Mode you have to select a color profile (BT.709, HDR, etc.) within which you set brightness, from my reading of the manual.  I assume those apply to any mode that uses that color profile.  Should I do this for BT.709 first, and then tweak it for HDR?  (I'm using an RS-1000, which doesn't have BT.2020.)

If that's how the menu is structured then the Brightness setting must be associated with the profile (I don't have the NX-7 any longer).  The settings are independent so it makes no difference which one you adjust first.

2)  I watch movies with an Oppo UDP-203 and a pair of 4K streamers, a 2019 nVidia Shield - the base model without a USB jack, and a 2019 Roku Ultra.  All are plugged into my AVR, a Yamaha Aventage RX-A3070, the HDMI output of which goes to the JVC.

How would you suggest I get a black pattern on screen?  Should I simply use the Spears & Munsil UHD disk's brightness adjustment screen, which has four vertical black bars on a black background, of which the left two bars are supposed to be invisible?  (I did some reading just now in the PDF from their site about how to use the disk.)

It sounds like this could be set optimally for only one of my sources, and would be sub-optimal for the other two.

It may not be "sub-optimal".  In theory they all use the same range; it's only the PC that potentially can use a different range, especially when playing still images.

Since I'm happy with my image right now - and I don't see the black letterbox or pillarbox bars when watching a film - maybe I should just skip this step and go straight to AutoCal?

This discussion is quite off-topic, as the Brightness setting is ignored by AutoCal.

[Philnick]

. . .
This discussion is quite off-topic, as the Brightness setting is ignored by AutoCal.

The only reason I'm asking about this is that Post #6 here by Manni says to adjust the brightness before running AutoCal by putting a black pattern on screen and toggling Hide to see if there's any difference.

[jj-34]

The only reason I'm asking about this is that Post #6 here by Manni says to adjust the brightness before running AutoCal by putting a black pattern on screen and toggling Hide to see if there's any difference.

Can you point me to where Manni said that as it does not make sense to me as Autocal does not use user settings including Brightness and Contrast and that we are supposed to Reset them all before, I'd rather say check Brightness and Contrast AFTER running Autocal.

[Philnick]

Can you point me to where Manni said that as it does not make sense to me as Autocal does not use user settings including Brightness and Contrast and that we are supposed to Reset them all before, I'd rather say check Brightness and Contrast AFTER running Autocal.

It's "Reply #6" on page 2 of this thread.

[jj-34]

It's "Reply #6" on page 2 of this thread.

Well that's where he explains the hide procedure, but I haven't seen a mention that it should be done before autocal.I must be a bit tired tonight ...... or hungry or both  

[Philnick]

Since I'm not seeing an elevated black level - I don't see letterbox bars - I'll just skip this and go straight to AutoCal.

[Philnick]

As Manni suggested, I'll be using remote control software to run my laptop with its lid closed (and thus its screen off) from another room during the actual calibration passes.

I run UltraVNC on my laptop (which adds file transfer capability to generic VNC when controlled by UltraVNC on another machine), and I'll be controlling it with Android bVNC PRO on my 10.1" wifi tablet. (I have the same app on my Android phone.)

Team Viewer is built on VNC - UltraVNC is freeware and bVNC PRO is dirt cheap - typical one-time less than $10 pricing at Google Play.

To avoid the problem of changing IP addresses for the host, I also use No-IP, which has you run a small app that frequently updates your account at their website with your host machine's current IP address. You point your remote control app at the name you create for that host at their website, which gets forwarded to the current IP address automatically. They have free and inexpensive multi-host subscriptions. I pay $25/year, and use it not only for remote control but also for remote access to my media using BubbleUPnP Server (also free) to make my DLNA/UPnP servers accessible across the net with the free Foobar2000 and fooUPnP and with Android BubbleUPnP ($5 at the Google Play Store) - which can also act as a control point over wifi to "cast" media to your players and as a relay between LANs over the net.

[dcchan2]

Since I'm not seeing an elevated black level - I don't see letterbox bars - I'll just skip this and go straight to AutoCal.

That alone won't confirm that it was not set too low.

[Philnick]

That alone won't confirm that it was not set too low.

True, so I'll use the Spears & Munsil disk to set the Brightness for SDR and HDR before I run the Autocal, in the unlikely case it leads me to use different Iris settings than my current 0 for both, requiring two different color Autocals, though I think that's very unlikely, since I'm at a large size on a low gain screen and need all the light I can get, but better safe than sorry.