JVC DLA-RS1000/N5 & RS2000/NX7 Owners Thread

[JohnG]

The projector is on my garage circuit and everything else (receiver and subwoofers) are on the living room circuit.
I was really hoping that was it, but I will have to keep testing.
Thanks again,

Have you tried putting the projector on the same circuit as everything else?  Moving plugs to different outlets is a good troubleshooting practice.  Do you have a line-conditioner?  You could also plug the projector into that.  While it is possible that the problem is a reaction to vibrations to the projector mount, I'd look for other solutions first.  Few, if ever, have posted of a similar problem as yours.  That leads me back to power supplies.  Good Luck.

[dutchboy]

Thanks JohnG,

I have not tried the projector on the same circuit as everything else.  Honestly I never even considered it might be power related.  That is about the only thing I have not tried or replaced.  Crutchfield replaced my panny, and RUIPRO replaced my cable so I am fairly confidant those aren't the problem.  I had dual 8ft copper grounding rods replaced and connected to my box...I was running out of ideas.  
I don't use a line-conditioner, I have always heard that we have very reliable electrical service in my city.  Is there a way I can check the quality?  I can see the nuclear power plant from my town lol
I'll try running the cord from the pj back into my living-room and see if that fixes it.

[jkasanic]

Thanks JohnG,

I have not tried the projector on the same circuit as everything else.  Honestly I never even considered it might be power related.  That is about the only thing I have not tried or replaced.  Crutchfield replaced my panny, and RUIPRO replaced my cable so I am fairly confidant those aren't the problem.  I had dual 8ft copper grounding rods replaced and connected to my box...I was running out of ideas. 
I don't use a line-conditioner, I have always heard that we have very reliable electrical service in my city.  Is there a way I can check the quality?  I can see the nuclear power plant from my town lol
I'll try running the cord from the pj back into my living-room and see if that fixes it.

You said it varies with dB so what happens when you mute your AVR? Does it go away completely? In general, is it repeatable? If so, I’d try eliminating variables. For example, can you move your disc player near the projector to swap HDMI runs between projector and AVR?

[randman]

You said it varies with dB so what happens when you mute your AVR? Does it go away completely? In general, is it repeatable? If so, I’d try eliminating variables. For example, can you move your disc player near the projector to swap HDMI runs between projector and AVR?

Also, another experiment would be to unplug the subwoofer. I would expect that you also won't have the problem if the subwoofer is unplugged. Then maybe try plugging the subwoofer to another circuit altogether (if available) and see if the behavior changes?

In my HT, I have two dedicated 20 amp circuit (20 amp circuits support up to 2400 watts while 15 amp circuits support up to 1800 watts):

1. One circuit is for the projector, a subwoofer, and a Buttkicker amp for Clark Tactile Transducers (4). In a worse case scenario (highly unlikely), they can use up to 2020 watts.

2. My second circuit powers everything else (processor, a second subwoofer, two 5x200 amplifiers, processor, etc.). In the worse case, if all equipment connected to this circuit were to max their power usage (based on manufacturer's specs), they would use 2,686 watts, which is more than the 2400 watts the circuit supports. But that's theoretical worse case scenario, and I have never run into this issue. Maybe if I listen at reference level with really heavy bass material, I may come close to the 2400 watt max.

Now, if you have 15 amp circuits, they only support 1800 watts each, and if the circuit is shared with other things (like stuff in the living room, etc.), then it may be possible to exceed the 1800 watts. However, if your circuit breaker isn't tripping, then maybe not, but it's possible transient subwoofer peaks aren't long enough to trigger the circuit breaker? Or maybe your surge proctector or power conditioner can't handle the load?


The only things I can think of is power issue, or vibration from the subwoofer. Or,  maybe an issue with the subwoofer that's causing it to suck a lot of power beyond manufacturer specs? I have an SVS SB-3000 subwoofer, and the maximum theoretical power it can use is 800 watts, so it's still well below what the circuit can handle, but if you start adding up everything that is plugged into the circuit (or line conditioner?) it can add up...

EDIT: one more thought: maybe some sort of loose cable connection that is affected by vibrations? 

[dutchboy]

Thanks so much for your patience guys,
I know how frustrating it can be dealing with people who do not completely understand things and cling to wrong assumptions early on like I did.  
On "opening night" (after I got my new projector, screen and receiver connected) I had friends over to watch "Lucy" and at the most exciting part we felt the floor rumble and the screen went blank and had to re-sync.  My friend said "The disk just skipped" and I just got stuck on that.  I have been unable to correctly diagnose the problem with very advanced troubleshooting over the phone.

After reading all of the posts this morning I got to work with more testing.  The easiest repeatable way for me to cause the problem was Dolby "Amaze".  I have it on disc and can stream it through youtube ATV or Panny app.  At the 37 second mark "Powerful Bass" it would knock out the video at -10MV for the panny and oppo player, -0 for ATV youtube app and Panny player youtube app.
With the disc in I muted the receiver and it played fine (no sound)
I shut off front subs and it played fine, turned them on and turned back sub off and it played fine at -10MV
Then played it with 3 subs and it kicked out.
I unplugged the rear sub from the outlet in the living room and ran it to a different circuit with a extension cord to kitchen.  Played the track at -10MV no problem then went full blown reference at -0 and it played no problem.  Interestingly it peaked at 105dbc on my checkmate spl meter .  Everything looked, sounded and felt like I dreamed it would.

I have outlets all the way around my living room but they all go to the same 15A circuit in my basement.  I suppose I should at least have the outlet on the back wall (with the dual sub) ran to its own circuit?

I just never considered the power because I did not trip the breaker.  I guess I must be getting close enough to cause problems...or do I still need to do more testing?

I have 1/3rd basement 2/3rd crawl.  The area under the living room is finished in basement but the back wall is in the crawl and not far from the electrical box, so that really seems like the easiest one to work with.  My garage is on the other side of screen wall.

Thanks again randman, JohnG, and jkasanic.

before this I had a ground loop hum that a real pain to figure out...I should be gtg now though

JVC DLA-RS1000/N5 & RS2000/NX7 Owners Thread

JVC DLA-RS1000/N5 & RS2000/NX7 Owners Thread

[AVSCraig]

Wow - that was a tough one to figure out. I had an electrician run 2 circuits to my theater initially, and the outlets in the bonus room we are using luckily were on their own circuit to begin with. You just can't have too much power. 

[JohnG]

Thanks so much for your patience guys,
I know how frustrating it can be dealing with people who do not completely understand things and cling to wrong assumptions early on like I did. 
On "opening night" (after I got my new projector, screen and receiver connected) I had friends over to watch "Lucy" and at the most exciting part we felt the floor rumble and the screen went blank and had to re-sync.  My friend said "The disk just skipped" and I just got stuck on that.  I have been unable to correctly diagnose the problem with very advanced troubleshooting over the phone.

After reading all of the posts this morning I got to work with more testing.  The easiest repeatable way for me to cause the problem was Dolby "Amaze".  I have it on disc and can stream it through youtube ATV or Panny app.  At the 37 second mark "Powerful Bass" it would knock out the video at -10MV for the panny and oppo player, -0 for ATV youtube app and Panny player youtube app.
With the disc in I muted the receiver and it played fine (no sound)
I shut off front subs and it played fine, turned them on and turned back sub off and it played fine at -10MV
Then played it with 3 subs and it kicked out.
I unplugged the rear sub from the outlet in the living room and ran it to a different circuit with a extension cord to kitchen.  Played the track at -10MV no problem then went full blown reference at -0 and it played no problem.  Interestingly it peaked at 105dbc on my checkmate spl meter .  Everything looked, sounded and felt like I dreamed it would.

I have outlets all the way around my living room but they all go to the same 15A circuit in my basement.  I suppose I should at least have the outlet on the back wall (with the dual sub) ran to its own circuit?

I just never considered the power because I did not trip the breaker.  I guess I must be getting close enough to cause problems...or do I still need to do more testing?

I have 1/3rd basement 2/3rd crawl.  The area under the living room is finished in basement but the back wall is in the crawl and not far from the electrical box, so that really seems like the easiest one to work with.  My garage is on the other side of screen wall.

Thanks again randman, JohnG, and jkasanic.

before this I had a ground loop hum that a real pain to figure out...I should be gtg now though

JVC DLA-RS1000/N5 & RS2000/NX7 Owners Thread

JVC DLA-RS1000/N5 & RS2000/NX7 Owners Thread

Nice setup.  You've got me thinking and the fact that all subs and no problems occur when you changed AC outlets certainly points to a power problem.  One thing you could/should do is put your Projector on a line conditionr/UPS back-up.  IMHO, every projector should be plugged into a UPS back-up.  That allows the projector to complete its shut down cycle properly if you loose power.  Sudden power loss with no 'cool down' is a surefire way to shorten a Projectors life span, particularly the bulb.   Another thought: is the circuit you've got the Projector plugged into (your garage circuit if I recall correctly), using a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interupt).  It's not logical that this would cause a power fluctuation in your Projector, but it's worth looking at.  You've made good steps at troubleshooting.  That all worked properly when you plugged gear into different outputs seems to indicate that it's a power line problem. Keep hunting it down.

[randman]

Then played it with 3 subs and it kicked out.
I unplugged the rear sub from the outlet in the living room and ran it to a different circuit with a extension cord to kitchen.  Played the track at -10MV no problem then went full blown reference at -0 and it played no problem.  Interestingly it peaked at 105dbc on my checkmate spl meter .  Everything looked, sounded and felt like I dreamed it would.

I have outlets all the way around my living room but they all go to the same 15A circuit in my basement.  I suppose I should at least have the outlet on the back wall (with the dual sub) ran to its own circuit?

I just never considered the power because I did not trip the breaker.  I guess I must be getting close enough to cause problems...or do I still need to do more testing?

I have 1/3rd basement 2/3rd crawl.  The area under the living room is finished in basement but the back wall is in the crawl and not far from the electrical box, so that really seems like the easiest one to work with.  My garage is on the other side of screen wall.

Thanks again randman, JohnG, and jkasanic.

before this I had a ground loop hum that a real pain to figure out...I should be gtg now though

Ahh. I can see how 3 subs can be a power issue. Yeah, maybe the high transient power use due to the subs was short enough not to trip the circuit. A while ago, some of my home theater equipment was on the same circuit as a microwave, and occasionally, using the microwave (to make popcorn for the movie) and home theater at the same time would trip the circuit. That’s when I decided to put two dedicated 20 amp circuits in my HT room. I also got this so I can use my UPS with my projector:

https://www.panamax.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/miw_powerkit_pro_datasheet.pdf

Glad you’venarrowed down your problem. 

[AVSCraig]

Ahh. I can see how 3 subs can be a power issue. Yeah, maybe the high transient power use due to the subs was short enough not to trip the circuit. A while ago, some of my home theater equipment was on the same circuit as a microwave, and occasionally, using the microwave (to make popcorn for the movie) and home theater at the same time would trip the circuit. That’s when I decided to put two dedicated 20 amp circuits in my HT room. I also got this so I can use my UPS with my projector:

https://www.panamax.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/miw_powerkit_pro_datasheet.pdf

Glad you’venarrowed down your problem.

I have six subs on the same circuit. Lucky for me, nothing else is on that circuit except a popcorn machine - which always gets used before the movie starts ! 

[Paul Heroy]

One thing you could/should do is put your Projector on a line conditionr/UPS back-up.  IMHO, every projector should be plugged into a UPS back-up.

100% agreed with that, and I'd add any sensitive electronics or things you want always on (like a DVR, networking gear, or server) should also be on a UPS. I go through periods where my power has no issues for months then one week it's firing up my UPSs briefly, several times a day.

I have six subs on the same circuit. Lucky for me, nothing else is on that circuit except a popcorn machine - which always gets used before the movie starts !

Yeah, but is that single circuit a 15 amp or 20 amp one?

[dutchboy]

Thanks for the advice and compliments guys.  
I knew there were so many people with so much more "firepower" (subwoofers and amplifiers)  in suspended rooms that were not having this problem.  Now I know why.  
If I had any idea when I started with this hobby where I was going to end up, I would have had the electrician wire accordingly years ago (or at least sometime before now:)).  I just keep wanting "a little more".

Good advice on the UPS and thanks for the link to the example also.  It really is kind of funny that I drew the line for additional spending at a UPS lol.  I looked at them years ago and decided it wasn't worth it, I probably should have revisited that decision a while back since so much has changed.

After I get this power thing solved, it should be smooth sailing for a while now.

Regards,

[AVSCraig]

100% agreed with that, and I'd add any sensitive electronics or things you want always on (like a DVR, networking gear, or server) should also be on a UPS. I go through periods where my power has no issues for months then one week it's firing up my UPSs briefly, several times a day.

Yeah, but is that single circuit a 15 amp or 20 amp one?

One of the SB4000's is on one of the dedicated 20 amp theater circuits come to think of it. Every circuit in our house is 20 amp. They over-built the house - it was built by a custom builder for himself. All 20 amp circuits, all 2 x 6 construction, all walls fully insulated ( interior too ), all solid core doors! 

[JohnG]

One of the SB4000's is on one of the dedicated 20 amp theater circuits come to think of it. Every circuit in our house is 20 amp. They over-built the house - it was built by a custom builder for himself. All 20 amp circuits, all 2 x 6 construction, all walls fully insulated ( interior too ), all solid core doors!

ALL 20 Amp Circuits? WOW!  When putting my room together I told my electrical contractor that I wanted at least 15amp circuits. He looked at me and said "Only Hospitals use that kind of circuit...and it'll cost more".  He didn't have much interest in Home Theater.  One of my regrets is pushing through the remodel instead of taking all the sheet rock down, properly insulating with sound deadening material, put boxes in for in-wall speakers, perfectly position the surrounds and Atmos speakers, and put in high powered electrical circuits.  Of course, I only use 2 subs and have never had any trouble. Then again, I'm an old dude and no longer crank it up to Reference Level.

[AVSMike]

RS2000/NX7
I am having a very annoying problem, that seems to be caused by low frequency sounds at louder playback levels.  While I am watching movies and a exciting LFE moment happens the video cuts out on my projector and I have a blank screen while the projector re-syncs.  Most of the time the sound continues, but sometimes it kicks out as well.  It really is worse than it sounds because it happens at the most dynamic scenes. I have tried the the different HDMI ports on both the receiver (Denon 6700h) and NX-7 and really did not notice a difference.  It will happen regardless of source...oppo 103D, ATV 4K, or Panny 420.  I have replaced the Monoprice 4k60hz with RuiPro fiber 4k60hz cable running from the receiver to the ceiling mounted projector and that did not solve the problem. 
Any ideas on what to check next? 
I was convinced it was the disc skipping from the subwoofer vibrations but that does not seem to be the case. 
To make matters worse...it doesn't happen when I turn the volume down .  Sometimes it will happen at less than 80db if the LFE is low enough.

My guess is loose HDMI cable. Unplug and plug each end of each cable a half dozen times. This will remove any corrosion and give you good contact. Also make sure HDMI cables are seated securely.

Added
I see that it did end up being a power problem. Glad you solved it.

[AVSMike]

One of the SB4000's is on one of the dedicated 20 amp theater circuits come to think of it. Every circuit in our house is 20 amp. They over-built the house - it was built by a custom builder for himself. All 20 amp circuits, all 2 x 6 construction, all walls fully insulated ( interior too ), all solid core doors!

Sounds a lot like my house, 20 amp breakers, 2x6 walls with an extra 1" of insulation board on the outside and solid core doors. Hollow core doors are a pet peeve of mine.