RBE on the HT9060 should be reduced, not eliminated. It will resemble what a high quality single chip DLP unit with an 6x RGB/RGB color wheel can do. From what I've heard, with this new XPR technology and DMD, TI have locked the color flashing to 6x, even when you're using an LED light source.The only single chip DLP units I've personally seen that eliminated it completely were the first generation .95" 1080p DC3/DC4 DMD LED projectors that used the Osram RAPCUR LED controller combined with the Phlatlight PT-120 LEDs. These projectors include the Runco Q750i, Sim2 Mico60, Vivitek H9080FD and the TruVue Vango. This combination allowed for an equivalent color wheel speed of 18x. Have you had the opportunity to test out any Sony or JVC models in your theater? Near the street price of the HT9060, I'd recommend taking a look at the JVC DLA-RS1000. It should be close in lumens, resolution and color characteristics but with much better contrast performance over the BenQ. I've done my fair share of projector shootouts and home theater meetups between DLP and LCoS projectors over the last 10 years and there's never been a DLP unit that everyone preferred. If you haven't seen a JVC, you owe it to yourself to at least see one in your theater to see what all the fuss is about. If you can swing it, the RS2000 is a much better option with the increase in contrast and color saturation performance over the RS1000.
Is Woofer in this forum? Has he received the LK990 yet? If so I have some newer settings to try. They had to be totally redone because I updated the FW on the UB820, which added many traits from the UB9000 and totally changed the tone mapping. BTW, those comments “over there” are absolute lies and rubbish! Kinda funny that now you can feel like you can post anything there no matter how much BS it is because now nobody is going to stand up and fight the misinformation and lies. I answered every single one of the lying statements there previously yet the same offenders are still lying out their teeth when they know I’ve already covered it and replied and corrected them. I’m going to come here and do a straight question and answer based on the false statements there. It’s unbelievable how much is wrong. But I guess with no checks and balances that’s just what that place has turned into.
How exciting! It should be HEAPS better than MadVR!!BenQ LK990 First Impressions
Since when is this a contest with MadVR? That explains it all actually. This is about what makes the LK work best, and HDR to SDR ain’t it. So who’s the one taking this all personally Javs?
Its not about MadVR, but Woofer uses it now exclusively.Dylan was using it back when he looked at the LK, twice, and you said both times he did it wrong... I am curious why you think your way is THE way to make the LK work best?
On the LK970, the shortcoming is it doesn’t do HDR BT2020/P3 natively, so you first have to resort to extreme measures to realign the incoming native HDR signal to display properly (as Kris alludes to in his reply above). Then once it’s really close you then do an HDR PQ calibration to get it as right and close to spec as possible. (Mainly CMS and greyscale). If it looks too blown out and overcooked as some mentioned, and as I have seen before also, then you can easily back down some of the settings like contrast and color and dial it in to spec and/or as you like. That seems to be the step everyone is missing here on the LK970. Everyone just throws in my base settings and looks at it in their system and then thinks that’s the way it is in its final version, but nothing could be further from the truth. I have always said that those settings are only a baseline to start with so the HDR signal appears semi-normal, just as if you sent native HDR into an HDR projector for the first time that does support it natively. And then of course what you would do in that case is start a calibration process, which is what I am saying to do in this case as well after inputting my base settings to prepare the LK970 to receive a native HDR input. You all know how much better it can look once the calibration is done on any display, and that is all I am saying to do here and what seems to have been missed and not done by those who’ve tried. You also have to go back and forth over and over again, literally changing one or two clicks on settings and you can see it slowly starting to snap into place and wow you, getting rid of the have and milky greys that have been reported and that I’ve also seen myself many times, but had to keep working it to alleviate it. It takes many hours of patience initially but you get the hang of changing what setting does to what you see and measure, so it becomes easier the more times you do it. All I was ever saying was what was reported was wrong and if you keep at it then it will be eventually rectified. Too many gave up too early and then said it couldn’t be done, when in fact it could and has been by me and others. There is no PQ standard for projectors. If you calibrate to PQ, you can only calibrate to ONE MaxCLL and hope that covers everything, which it does not. When I asked about getting your settings from you the very first time, after you asked if I'd try them, the very next post from me was asking specifically if you had a calibration target that was associated with those settings. You never responded. You didn't start attacking the calibration stuff until after I just went ahead and tried the settings (which someone else provided) and showed that the results didn't look good. I even explained in the post the reason they wouldn't look good. Changing the contrast setting is only changing the white point and ruining the weak contrast performance even more. And if people can afford to buy a LK970 (which is all I'm referring to, because that is all I've tested) buying something like the Panasonic 820 should not be a stretch. They are going to have to buy a HD Fury box using your settings anyways, so may as well just put that money toward a Panasonic instead and get rid of the "tweaking" that would be required for every title since you're developing a single tone map anyways. What you are trying to achieve and what Panasonic is actually doing are the same thing, they are just doing it within actual standards so they don't have to hunt and peck for some setting that may make the image look right if you're lucky, and then have to start again with the next title. Adjusting color/tint/contrast/brightness on a title by title basis should be the LAST thing you should have to do based on what those settings actually do. The biggest issue I had with you Dave is your insistence on laying blame on all others but yourself when it came to evaluating these projectors. I got the 970 and asked specifically for your settings. You said you would get them. Then you didn't. Then someone else found some that you had posted before and you said those should work but that you may have newer ones, which you didn't provide. I asked about calibration and you didn't respond. Then later you backtracked all this and said I didn't calibrate, which I asked you about, and that those settings weren't right, but didn't provide the ones that supposedly were. Then you said you've posted settings a bunch of times, then you email Mike and say that your settings were only in some email. Every single time there is another excuse and what amounts to lies about what you have or have not posted. But in all those endless amounts of posts you never thought to just clear the air and ACTUALLY POST THE SETTINGS YOU THINK SHOULD BE USED. It took endless arguing to even get your calibration target out, and I chimed right in and said why calibrating to PQ makes zero sense in this case. Plus you can't adjust gamma on these projectors anyway, as I mentioned in the post above. Ultimately it doesn't matter now on my end. The LK970 is gone and I have zero desire to see a 990. DLP as a technology has to make some major advancements to get my personal interest and these projectors need to work out their massive shortcomings before I'm inclined to look at them again.Here is a simple question:Are the SDR and HDR modes and their associated firmware in HDR capable displays engineered differently in how they respond and react to each given signal that’s expected when each mode is chosen for a particular use case when receiving each’s expected signal when chosen? In the LKs’ case, this would be its SmartEco dimming and gamma manipulation, Brilliant Color, gamma mode, dynamic range, Automatic Power Control dimming, Color and phosphor wheel reaction, Full shutoff of laser, etc.They are not unless you are feeding in a signal that locks out certain controls. So if you are outputting SDR2020 or SDR709, you should have full access to the other settings. This is not the case with the 9060, but it worked fine with the 970.
With respect, you yourself kinda have made it a contest with MadVR by repeatedly stating that the best possible video performance is achieved only by using your settings. Where others are using MadVR to carry out the HDR processing because they consider that this delivers the best video performance. Other folks make use of a Lumagen PRO or a Panasonic Blu-Ray player similarly, although IMO these don't deliver as good performance as MadVR. You even state that "HDR to SDR ain’t it" which makes me wonder whether you really understand how HDR actually works. The fact of the matter is that the resultant image that is displayed when using an external device to carry out the HDR processing, including tone-mapping, is in fact HDR not SDR. There is no downconverting to SDR. Wherein, the reason why you set the output that is fed to the projector to SDR BT2020 is because the HDR processing has already been carried out; so the projected image is in fact HDR.And in fact there are very good scientific reasons why it is advantageous to carry out the HDR processing including tone-mapping earlier in the video chain, because this means that the video display device can be calibrated to flat 2.4 gamma and thereby circumvent any and all limitations with respect to whichever video display device regards calibrating HDR, which quite frankly is something nobody ideally should be having to do in the first place. Please can you kindly explain the reasons why you believe your settings and feeding an HDR video signal to the projector achieves superior video performance as compared with using MadVR, a Lumagen PRO, or a Pansonic Blu-Ray player to carry out the HDR video processing? Wherein, it should be noted that both MadVR and Lumagen PRO carry out frame-by-frame tone-mapping with HDR10 content akin to Dolby Vision, thereby fixing all the issues and problems associated with HDR10 encoded media. So why are your settings and method, which is restricted to using static metadata (which is sometimes corrupt, broken, or missing) and requires calibrating the projector for HDR, better exactly?
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