The contrast slider adjustment has been explained to you by two different posters. You use the manual iris to cut the light output. If you still can't get there, you should use an ND filter. Yet you keep asking for an explanation for this when it has been given to you. At some point it just becomes trolling and people are going to stop replying to you.
Two people have told you not to use the contrast slider adjustment for light output adjustment. Both of them have told you why you should not use this adjustment and that you should use the manual iris. I myself have also posted this and yet you continue. Consider this warning number two to stop or you will be gone.
I have no idea what test pattern that is. Where does it say that bar is 235? I also have no idea if you're sending full 0-255 or limited 16-235. I also have no idea what other settings you have enabled. All I know is, if your chain is set up properly, you shouldn't need to set the Contrast setting that low. As Andreas points out, generally speaking, you don't need to make adjustments to either Contrast or Brightness to clip and crush at the correct digital levels and if you do generally it's only 1 point off, not 7.
all is 16-235 all true the chain normal setup, im telling you its clipping perfect at bar 235, do i need to pull up another pattern to show you.?Maybe you could adjust your contrast -7 and ilustrate what you see on the clipping pattern as ill guess it will be the same, and still my iris is -15 and 18fl so to match a 15fl for comparisons sake ill need to lower contrast, only visual and measureble difference is that i lower on off contrast by lowering lightoutput and slightly compressing the bit resolution in the projector, exactely like you do when you adjust green and blue gain down to balance your colors.Ill like to understand why your projector clips 235 when you lower your contrast, thats highly unusual.A few clicks on the remote and the contrast is back to 0 and its all as you guys like it, so whats the actual problem.?I have 5 projectors up so sometimes compromises is needet to make proper comparisons with identical lightoutput.
Yes, sorry, I misspoke. But the point I was making still holds true in that you're lowering your light output thus creating an issue trying to take an accurate contrast measurement.
I cannot find in this thread where anybody tried to claim accurate contrast measurements. Can you please provide me alink?
I was thinking the same thing. Somebody might need to see an eye doctor. So who needs to see an eye doctor?
I Used to be an owner of an 885es/ 760es and had issues with 3 of them. Sony was good too exchange them and I only had to add $4K to get a 995es / 870es Unfortunately that had problems as well. Optical block issue. The whole guts of the system. I would have to say Sony had great service and the projectors did throw a great picture unfortunately I just ended up with 4 duds. I ended up with a full refund but still its a damn shame. Apparently the 270es 570es 760es & the 870es have all the same internals bar 760es and 870es. Their difference was Laser and 870es having the lens. With the 760es and 870es with the amount they charge they should of had a much higher end optical block, processor etc. Just under the 5000es.