While waiting for the next batch of NX7's to arrive, I've decided to replace my screen. Can you help me decide? Currently I have a 108" diagonal 16x9 screen. Throw Distance is 15-feet. I'd like to project CIH on a 2.35:1 screen. My choices are a 133" or a 115" diagonal Draper screen. The 115" is actually less square feet than my current 108". The 133 is 25% more area than the 108. Here's my question: will I be able to achieve a sharp image is I use the Zoom method on the 133" screen. A 25% increase in size seems like a lot, though I'm currently showing a nice bright image at 108" on my DLA-x790r. My concern is loosing sharpness if I jump to 133".Also, I'm considering 2 screen materials from Draper's TecVision line: an ALR grey with 0.9 gain, and an ALR grey with 1.3 gain. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance!
Why a grey screen? I've always felt a grey screen was a crutch for a low-contrast DLP and not needed with a high-contrast projector. Are you going to have the projector properly calibrated?Good Question. The NX7 has less native contrast than my current x790r. I thought a grey screen, 0.9 gain, would help restore some of the lost contrast. At one time I had a Stewart Firehawk (grey) screen and absolutely loved the "pop" it provided. My thought was to try to get closer to the look of the Firehawk, but without the premium Stewart price. Does this make sense or should I go for a white screen with 1.3 gain? In some ways, choosing a screen is harder than choosing a projector. Most of us keep our screen longer than our projector. Yes, once the projector reaches 100+ hours, it will be calibrated by an ISF certified calibrator. I still like using JVC Auto Calibration, but only for Gamma droop.
Grey screens don't give you more contrast if your room has light control. They may make blacks darker, but they also make whites and colors equally darker. I'd get a StudioTek 130 G4 - at least get samples. We can send you some if you want.
RS2000/NX7I am having a very annoying problem, that seems to be caused by low frequency sounds at louder playback levels. While I am watching movies and a exciting LFE moment happens the video cuts out on my projector and I have a blank screen while the projector re-syncs. Most of the time the sound continues, but sometimes it kicks out as well. It really is worse than it sounds because it happens at the most dynamic scenes. I have tried the the different HDMI ports on both the receiver (Denon 6700h) and NX-7 and really did not notice a difference. It will happen regardless of source...oppo 103D, ATV 4K, or Panny 420. I have replaced the Monoprice 4k60hz with RuiPro fiber 4k60hz cable running from the receiver to the ceiling mounted projector and that did not solve the problem. Any ideas on what to check next? I was convinced it was the disc skipping from the subwoofer vibrations but that does not seem to be the case. To make matters worse...it doesn't happen when I turn the volume down . Sometimes it will happen at less than 80db if the LFE is low enough.
Currently, I have a 106" (16:9) Elite Screens CineGrey 5D, which is great for ALR (ambient light rejection). I'm moving houses soon, and the new home will have a dedicated, light-controlled room in the basement, so I no longer need ALR. I'm looking to get a 16:9 135" screen. The width of the new HT room is narrow (around 11.25'), and the room's length will be around 21'. I'm interested in an acoustically transparent screen so I can take full advantage of the width of the room, and also so that the center channel can be raised up since I'd like a 2nd row of seating (tiered up 8" or so). First row will probably be around 9' to 10' from screen.I was looking at Stewart's web site, and it says that the StudioTek 130 G4 "can be perforated"?:https://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/en/materials/studiotek-130-g4Anyone have experience on the perforated version of this screen? Wondering how much it adds to the cost.Alternatively, anyone have other suggestions for acoustically transparent screens?
Is it possible that low frequency sounds at loud playback levels is putting a strain on your power source, whether on the surge protector or the circuit itself? Can you try plugging in your subwoofer (or amp) to a differenct circuit than the projector?