JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[jj-34]

Why do you install Win10 pro ?   it has network and policy intricacies that may be difficult to master if you haven't a fair good understanding of it, win10 Home is perfect for the general purpose home use of a PC including Autocal.
I am an old timer PC user since the very begining (even before it was called windows ... like IBM's DOS and OS/2) and for my home use and my family we all have W10 Home, the only thing I am missing is the remote desktop that I could use to help my daughter who is a long way away from home ....  

[chiayc]

Why do you install Win10 pro ?  it has network and policy intricacies that may be difficult to master if you haven't a fair good understanding of it, win10 Home is perfect for the general purpose home use of a PC including Autocal.
I am an old timer PC user since the very begining (even before it was called windows ... like IBM's DOS and OS/2) and for my home use and my family we all have W10 Home, the only thing I am missing is the remote desktop that I could use to help my daughter who is a long way away from home .... 

I have a license key provided by my office, apparently it cannot be used to activate W10 Home, and I have to install W10 Pro to use the key. By the way, after working for 1 more time last night, the problem returns, and no way I can get it to work again. Guess I just have to give up on it. I believe there is some glitches in JVC Autocal that prevent it from recognising SpyderX via USB-C.

[jj-34]

True, you most probably have an enterprise volume key that cannot be used to qualify for a home use W10 Home .
But You can use your W10 Home for a while without registering ( one month if I remeber well ) that gives you time to do some more testing.

I am just thinking about a problem with USB-C that could be your case, PC with USB-C connectors have a lower output power capacity, it may be interesting to try with an externaly powered USB hub, especially if you need a long USB cable, not a lost investment as it is recommended to use such a remote powered hub anyway. 

[chiayc]

True, you most probably have an enterprise volume key that cannot be used to qualify for a home use W10 Home .
But You can use your W10 Home for a while without registering ( one month if I remeber well ) that gives you time to do some more testing.

I am just thinking about a problem with USB-C that could be your case, PC with USB-C connectors have a lower output power capacity, it may be interesting to try with an externaly powered USB hub, especially if you need a long USB cable, not a lost investment as it is recommended to use such a remote powered hub anyway.

Thanks, any good powered hub that you can recommend? I notice most of the hubs are without power. Is 5V/1A powered hub good enough?

[jj-34]

No personal experience but a hub like this will do : USB 3 hub with PA (with Power Adapter).

I haven't found any direct USB-C powered hub so you may have to insert a USB-C to USB 3 adapter like this : USB-C to USB 3

[chiayc]

No personal experience but a hub like this will do : USB 3 hub with PA (with Power Adapter).

I haven't found any direct USB-C powered hub so you may have to insert a USB-C to USB 3 adapter like this : USB-C to USB 3

Tried with powered USB hub, still not working. I got 3rd success to connect to the sensor in the middle of trial, without changing any settings, but would not be able to repeat it. So it looks like it is a glitch in the software to recognise USB-C port, which is very unstable. I give up the intention for time being, until there is an update to the software. JJ, thanks for all the good advice.

[jj-34]

Too bad,  but I'd rather blame windows and its 2006 generic driver, as USB-C was not invented then, also if you do some net searching you'll see that USB-C support is rather poor.

[Philnick]

I just spent the past few days reading this entire thread.

I'm new to this board, and don't know how to search this thread to find the amazon link someone posted for the selfie holder with a tripod mount to use with the EFI ES-2000 that I recently ordered on eBay (getting it in a few days).

Someone posted the photo of that phone mount recently but without the amazon link!

NEVERMIND - I found it. It's: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KNBV21/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A11HC9SRN13WHM&psc=1

[Philnick]

Maybe I should introduce myself. I was led here from the forum at AFSforums about my RS1000. I've just finished reading this entire thread.

I installed my RS1000 last fall a few days after the 3.10 firmware came out, which I immediately installed.

I've never calibrated it or tweaked it at all except for creating a few installation modes for zoom settings - I use a painted wall with a 0.93 gain screen paint recipe called Cream & Sugar Ultra from HomeTheaterShack.com. I used that screen paint (and its predecessor recipe without the word ultra) happily for many years with an old 1080p Panasonic PT-AE2000 (since Blu-ray became the standard).

I completely rebuilt my basement bat cave last fall, and put my RS1000 15' 9" from the screen wall, with matte black ceiling and sidewalls up to my couch, halfway back from the screen. The floor is dark grey carpeting. The couch is a 6' wide dark brown cloth futon that seats four.

My projected 17:9 grid uses 11' 4" of wall between my front speakers and about 6' in height, starting an inch or so down from the ceiling, ending about two feet off the floor, leaving plenty of clearance over my center channel speaker.

The RS1000 is sitting on a black wire frame shelf pretty close to centered on the screen, so very little shift was needed. I have one installation mode for images 1.85:1 and wider, which uses Aspect:Zoom, and one for images 16:9 and 4:3, that uses Aspect:Auto. I don't have an anamorphic lens.

Since I'm projecting a fairly large image on a low gain screen, I've been running at high lamp with the iris at 0 and using the Auto DI in its factory default setting, both for SDR and HDR, and using Frame Adapt set to High for HDR.

I've always been happy with the image, but scheduled a calibration with ChadB for this past May when I would have had about 200 hours on the bulb. That got rescheduled to yesterday due to the pandemic - and then cancelled when JVC announced that its impending new firmware update with the Theater Optimizer would wipe out all calibration data a month and a half after my calibration. By the time they corrected that announcement, it was too late to reinstate my appointment!

So I'm going to try to do it myself. I have - but have never set up - a brand-new Spyder X, and will be getting a second-hand EFI ES-2000 in the next few days.

My intention is to use AutoCal 12 on my Win 10 Pro (version 1909) laptop with those meters, and to avoid light pollution during the calibration runs by using the MonitorOff freeware I found a while back to blank out the laptop's screen. How will I know that a calibration run is finished so I can turn the screen back on?

I've got about 260 hours on the RS-1000's bulb.

From the discussions here and at AVSforum I figure I only need to do one calibration of gamma and color, since I don't change anything but color space between SDR and HDR. My plan is to set it to HDR and run the Spyder X gamma first, copy the init file to my dropbox for safekeeping, and then do the EFI ES-2000 color run when I get it later this week.

By the way, since I do watch 3D films, using the JVC RF emitter, I'm a little confused by the disclaimer about 3D. Will those really be shown uncalibrated unless I get adventurous enough to try to do a manual calibration for 3D with other software, or will the calibration done for SDR also apply to them?

One hack that occurred to me would be to change the iris slightly - like using -1 for everything else but 0 for 3D - and do a second autocal for 3D with the lens of my 3D glasses over the Spyder and EFI ES-2000 sensors' windows!

[dcchan2]

My intention is to use AutoCal 12 on my Win 10 Pro (version 1909) laptop with those meters, and to avoid light pollution by using the MonitorOff freeware I found a while back to blank out the laptop's screen during the calibration runs. How will I know that a calibration pass is finished so I can turn the screen back on?

Run it once without blanking the screen, and time how long it takes.

One hack that occurred to me would be to change the iris slightly - like using -1 for everything else but 0 for 3D - and do a second autocal for 3D with the lens of my 3D glasses over the Spyder and EFI ES-2000 sensors' windows!

That won't work.  The attempted 3D calibration will simply overwrite the previous 2D calibration.
As others have mentioned, you cannot run autocal for 3D.  I would be interested to see how you do it.

[Philnick]

Run it once without blanking the screen, and time how long it takes.
That won't work.  The attempted 3D calibration will simply overwrite the previous 2D calibration.
As others have mentioned, you cannot run autocal for 3D.  I would be interested to see how you do it.

So I'll run a Log Only gamma to see how long that takes and a Log Only color to time that one. Got it!

Wouldn't using a different iris setting for 3D - and calibrating at that iris setting - lead to a second, independent, calibration? That's why I thought of using Iris -1 for 2D (both SDR and HDR), and Iris 0 for 3D.

If I do only one calibration for everything, using Iris 0, wouldn't watching 3D at Iris 0 use that calibration, or does showing 3D automatically use the factory calibration?

[dcchan2]

So I'll run a Log Only gamma to see how long that takes and a Log Only color to time that one. Got it!

There is no "Log Only gamma" or "Log Only color".  The one "Log Only" measures both, but does not do any actual calibration; I wouldn’t worry about “light contamination” from the laptop screen when running Log Only. 

Wouldn't using a different iris setting for calibration lead to a second, independent, calibration? That's why I thought of using Iris -1 for 2D (both SDR and HDR), and Iris 0 for 3D.

No, there are only 4 groups of iris settings for autocal; 0-3, 4-7, 8-11, 12-15. And the groups only differ in colour calibration, not gamma.

If I do only one calibration, using Iris 0, wouldn't watching 3D use that calibration, or does showing 3D automatically use the factory calibration?

AFAIK, the projector modulates the gamma in the 3D mode to compensate for the loss in brightness.  Autocal would refuse to run when the input is in 3D; I would guess the "base calibration" is applied to 3D as well, but do not know for certain.

[Philnick]

There is no "Log Only gamma" or "Log Only color".  The one "Log Only" measures both, but does not do any actual calibration.
No, there are only 4 groups of iris settings for autocal; 0-3, 4-7, 8-11, 12-15. And the groups only differ in colour calibration, not gamma.

AFAIK, the projector modulates the gamma in the 3D mode to compensate for the loss in brightness.  Autocal would refuse to run when the input is in 3D; I would guess the "base calibration" is applied to 3D as well, but do not know for certain.

Can I switch meters during the Log Only, since I would be doing so for the actual calibration? I could then time each of them so I would know when to wake up the screen during the real calibration.

If the projector works from the result of a normal calibration and tweaks it itself for 3D that would be fine by me. My concern was the implication that it would ignore the calibration entirely when showing 3D.

[dcchan2]

Can I switch meters during the Log Only, since I would be doing so for the actual calibration? I could then time each of them so I would know when to wake up the screen during the real calibration.

No, but you can run Log Only twice, once with each meter.

Log Only is 100% safe, so just run it yourself and things will get much clearer.

[Philnick]

I just reread the whole Basics section and one question popped out:

Post # 6 Recommended settings, says I can set the brightness by showing a black pattern and using the remote's Hide button to see if there's any visible change.

Where can I find a black pattern to do this?

Is one built into the RS1000?

I do have the Spears and Munsil disk, which I've never used. Is there one on that disk? (I also have the Avia DVD and the Digital Video Essentials Blu-ray that I used with my older generations of projectors and disk players. This isn't my first rodeo, but my first time dealing with HDR and calibration equipment more sophisticated than looking through a plastic filter. I've had a home theater since about 2002.)