JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[Manni]

Thanks, would it be necessary to now re adjust black level with my R. Masciola patterns to slightly resolve 17/68?

It's always a good idea to check for this after any calibration, but a color autocal will never change this. Only a gamma autocal might.

Never try to show 17/68 at all cost if it means raising your black floor.

[SirMaster]

Yeah, IMO it's best to find the brightness value that raises the whole black screen, then go back down by 1.

If you want more shadow detail at that point, fix it with a custom gamma curve or raise the dark gamma control by a click which will raise near-black without raising black. 

[Asharma]

Hi folks, I’m trying to understand these files that were saved when I did my gamma autocal in early April...

Ok, I see the single Init file that I saved in multiple locations, but the other 2 files would be what? The one with the later date is perhaps the gamma calibration I settled on the next day but I’m not sure what the other one is...thanks folks

[Asharma]

Hi folks...

If I do a color Autocal for HDR10 and then save and then switch to frame adapt, does the color Autocal apply to frame adapt? I’m assuming it will as I can’t use Autocal at all in frame adapt mode...

[David Vaughn]

A colleague of mine who works for a division of X-Rite was able to get me a i1 Pro 2 and I was able to do a gamma calibration with a Spyder 5 as well as a color calibration with the i1 Pro 2 last night. Unfortunately, I ran into an issue with the software. No matter what I tried, I could NOT get the i1 "into the box" in the software no matter where I placed it. I was able to get it close if the meter was about 18 inches from the screen (and not in the shadow, of course). I threw caution to the wind and went ahead with the calibration and everything turned out excellent (pretty much nailed D65 at both 100% and 50%) and the saturation points ended up where I expected them to be after using Calman in previous calibrations with a C5 meter. 

My question is, should I be concerned that the meter wasn't "in the box?" Thinking that the meter could have been faulty, I broke out my old i1 Pro and had the exact same result...I couldn't get the meter into the box no matter what I tried. Any tips?

[David Vaughn]

One other question. In Calman, would I want to profile the iOne Pro 2 to the C5 or the other way around? 

[Manni]

Hi Dave,

You should read the basic section...

No one manages (or tries) to get the i1pro2 in the box, and it doesn’t matter.

I set it at 1-2 feet with the other meters, and I ignore the box.

You want to profile the C5 to the i1pro2, but I ‘d probably profile the Spyder to it, or ar the very least try both. Unless that’s what you meant?

Anyway, i1pro2 always reference, spyder or C5 field/profiled meter.

[David Vaughn]

Hi Dave,

You should read the basic section...

No one manages (or tries) to get the i1pro2 in the box, and it doesn’t matter.

I set it at 1-2 feet with the other meters, and I ignore the box.

You want to profile the C5 to the i1pro2, but I ‘d probably profile the Spyder to it, or ar the very least try both. Unless that’s what you meant?

Anyway, i1pro2 always reference, spyder or C5 field/profiled meter.

Manni, I skimmed the Basic section but was in a rush  I know the software since I've owned JVCs exclusively for the past 13 years or so, but this is the first time I've used the i1.

In regard to profiling, can you explain the benefit? Is it to offset the errors of the "lesser" meter for more accuracy for color and gain the speed and accuracy for the lower light readings? I've never profiled a meter before, so it's new to me. 

[Manni]

Manni, I skimmed the Basic section but was in a rush I know the software since I've owned JVCs exclusively for the past 13 years or so, but this is the first time I've used the i1.

In regard to profiling, can you explain the benefit? Is it to offset the errors of the "lesser" meter for more accuracy for color and gain the speed and accuracy for the lower light readings? I've never profiled a meter before, so it's new to me.

The benefit of profiling is to get the best from both meters. The differences are explained in more details in the "Which meter to choose?" section.

The i1pro2 is more accurate from a color point of view, but it's very bad in low light (pretty much unreliable below 10 nits, so not only near black for gamma but also blue that can be quite dim even at 100%) and it's quite slow.

The Spyder 5 is more sentive in low light, faster, but it's much less accurate for color.

So you train the Spyder on the i1pro2 to "teach" it good colors, then you use the profiled Spyder which has the accuracy of the i1pro2 but keeps the added speed and better sensitivity in low lights.

Here is a video explaining the process in Calman:


There is no benefit to using a multiple pass with projectors as both meters can read the same spot at the centre of the screen, so just use the single pass, it's much faster.

[David Vaughn]

Manni, sorry to be a pain. So use the Spyder 5 instead of the Calman C5?

[Manni]

Manni, sorry to be a pain. So use the Spyder 5 instead of the Calman C5?

It's been a long time since I last used my Chroma 5, but my memory of it was that it was very slow and not that great in low light. So I would try with both and see which one gets me the best results.

[Asharma]

Hi folks, ok, now getting color temps closer to 6400...Dominic had mentioned perhaps there was an underlying problem with gamma, so I reran my gamma with my SpyderX about 12 inches from screen...it had been further back before...Had excellent results on the Autocal charts...I then ran color Autocal at iris 0 and again at iris -4 and saved both...here are the color results below...I “think” these are ok, but welcome any input as to what could easily be improved...1st pic is iris 0, 2nd pic iris -4

[dcchan2]

I did not say that. Please don’t misquote me. 

[Asharma]

Man o man, I am having no luck with people today...I apologize as I “thought” that is what you mentioned...clearly I was WRONG AGAIN! 

My challenge is I don’t know what I am talking about but am trying to learn much like many other people on the forums...and so if I think I understand what helpful people are telling me, I try to share that information for the benefit of others...my apologies...

Are you able to share what you meant and perhaps why I am seeing a difference after running a new gamma? 

Apologies once again

[jj-34]

I think that it is worth remembering that all those measures are NOT absolute values as probably not taken with a very high dollar laboratory calibrated sensor but are relative to the sensor accuracy that is used thus must be read with that in mind.