Added to the list. I agree it would be nice, but I wouldn't hold my breath. There are too many more important improvements on the list. But you never know, sometimes, easy stuff get added before more important changes...
Greetings,Manni, if you had your druthers, which meter would you use, the SpyderX or Spyder5 Pro? I have the Spyder5 Pro but haven't been exactly pleased with the gamma calibration results. I find that brightness takes a bit more of a hit than I would like afterward. I am leaning toward trying the SpyderX to see if the results are any different.Thanks!
I have the Spyder5 Pro but haven't been exactly pleased with the gamma calibration results. I find that brightness takes a bit more of a hit than I would like afterward.
Hi Ralph,Gamma calibration shouldn't take any hit on peak brightness, because the gamma autocal only makes adjustments between black and 100% white, but it doesn't touch either. The main difference between the Spyder 5 and the Spyder X is speed, but the results shouldn't be much different for gamma autocal otherwise, except maybe in the low end.If you have a brightness hit at 100% white, it's most likely because you did a color autocal, or a gamma+color autocal, and it's the color autocal that has cut the brightness to bring 100% white to what it thinks is D65. A Spyder X could do better or worse, it's a lottery based on each unit, not on the model.However, if your spyder 5 does overcorrect when doing a color autocal, a Spyder X might improve things. Or make them worse... Still, you could try and either return it if worse, or keep it just for gamma (it's much faster than the Spyder 5, and more importantly works facing the screen, which is a lot more convenient IMO).If you think you might have run a color autocal by mistake, you can simply restore your INIT file and run a gamma only autocal. This should restore your brightness (unless the loss is due to something else, for example a long calibration session in high lamp). Sometimes the next day that brightness is back.If you mean that the picture looks less bright but 100% white has not dropped, then it might simply be the correction of the gamma droop (as gamma in the high end was probably too low, making the picture brighter than it should at 50-95% white).If the picture is darker everywhere, and especially in the low end, you could try a lower gamma in SDR (it doesn't matter in HDR). You don't have to choose between 2.2 and 2.4, you can select 2.3 or any other value selecting custom and whichever value feels better. However, I know you are in a dedicated room, so I would highly suggest you keep 2.4. 2.2 would look washed out.By the way, we're talking actual gamma, not selected gamma. Often times, even after an autocal, you have to select 2.5 to get 2.4, or 2.3 to get 2.2, so it's worth checking or adjusting by eye, as the value selected isn't necessarily accurate, although it should look fairly flat after an autocal. You can also fine-tune using picture tone in the tri-band gamma adjustment, as it lowers/raises the whole curve with a single setting.Hope this helps!
Greetings,Thanks guys. Yeah, I am aware that a gamma cal really shouldn't impact peak brightness and while I generally find the results to be within tolerances, the image appeared flatter (for lack of a better term) than I was accustomed to. I was curious to get some input and appreciate your responses.I may give the SpyderX a shot just to see how it handles things in general.Regards,
Hi Manni,Thanks again for this great thread.I am pretty sure I know the answer to this question but just want to confirm.If I do a two part autocal - Gamma - Spyder5Pro and then Color - i1pro2 - I end up with two files.If I then subsequently reload the init file.If I want to get back to my calibrated settings then I just have to reload the second (color) file because it already has the gamma settings from the first file plus the color settings.Is that correct?Thanks again.Stephen
Can you post measurements with your i1d3 showing your gamma and rgb balance measurement after autocal, as well as the peak white before/after? Hard to make any further comments without the actual data.
Hi Manni,I own an i1pro2 and both spyder 5 and x. Which spyder would you use for gamma? In one of your posts you suggested the newer model (i.e. X), because it is quicker.My only doubt is about accuracy, especially on lower stimulus. Isn’t the meter facing the screen affecting the ability to read low levels of luminance? With what combination did you get best results?
I don't think I've seen this question addressed before.I'm ready to do a Gamma only Autocal on my NX7, using a Spyder5 Pro, and Version 11 of the JVC Software.At this point, I watch exclusively with the Panamorph DCR Lens in place, using Anamorphic Mode C for scope content, and Mode D for 16:9 content.When doing the Autocal, can/should it be done with the DCR Lens in place, or does it *need* to be removed to do a proper autocal? And if I can do it with the A-lens in place, should I be using Mode C or Mode D, or does it not matter?