JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[Manni]

Many thanks for the clarifications Mani!!
I still have some doubts reading your answers:
1.- In one paragraph you say “it is better to calibrate the iris setting that you are actually using”. In another “This is also why it's recommended to run gamma autocal with the iris fully open at gamma 2.2”. It is not clear to me if set the iris to -4 (my iris setting for SDR) or to 0 to calibrate gamma. I am only doing gamma autocalibration as Color is biased using spyderX and prefer to calibrate it manually with my i1d3.

2. The backup file saved after each calibration is incremental or only contains the last calibration? I mean I have now the Init file and the file created after my calibration for SDR -4, low, no filter. If I make a new calibration 0,low, filter for HDR, the new backup file will contain both or just the last one?

1. If you only do a gamma calibration, you can try running it at -4 (your usual setting) and check if you get any 0 reading in the log. If you do, run the gamma autocal again with the iris at zero (fully open). Iris fully open is usually the safest/optimal setting for a gamma calibration, as it helps with low light readings, especially with a 33-step calibration. My advice to make sure your actual iris setting is calibrated was regarding color calibration, as it doesn't matter for gamma and some do many color calibrations to calibrate all the iris ranges. All this is explained in the basic section. Please re-read it if necessary.

2. This was discussed recently. I've added a link to this post to the FAQ.

[CyberPaul]

Because of the poor color calibration with my Spyder, I restored the INIT file and auto-calibrated gamma only (while waiting for a used i1 display pro).
After the calibration I compared color measures using ColorMunki and Spyder on a common field: HCFR.
With SpyderX I did measures using two calibration matrices: General and Standard Led
I also attached a picture of the gamut logged by Autocal software itself.
As you can see, General is pretty distant from ColorMunki (that I think is quite accurate). And the gamut read by Autocal is very similar to the results achieved with General. There is an evident problem with the green. Standard Led setting seems more similar to the ColorMunki though.
This test confirms IMHO the inaccuracy of SpyderX when used with the "General" matrix, apparently the one that Autocal is using.
On the other hand I measured the gamma and it is simply perfect! And the color uncalibrated is not that bad after 300h.

I bought a used i1pro 2! I tried performing an Autocalibration with very good results (PFA). As expected, the green was not bad as with SpyderX and apparently only a correction to the red has been applied. I checked the results with Calman using my i1d3 profiled and I can confirm the correct calibration. I think now we can say that SpyderX is not reading correctly the colors (especially green) and this is causing bad calibration. I still believe it is a matter of configuration, because I got acceptable results in HCFR with the right calibration matrix (standard led).

[CyberPaul]

Hi Manni,

Using my i1 pro 2 in Autocal I can't have the meter within the orange rectangle. Can you? Is that a problem? Since I can't get the VPR closer to the screen, as the message suggest, do you recommend to shrink the screen as much as I can? I noticed that results are good, even though Gray 12.5% is a little far from the reference, maybe because of the low luminance?
Also, the manual suggest a distance of 30cm/1 for the SpyderX. What about the i1 pro?

Thanks in advance

[JonnyVee]

Hi Manni,

I’m not asking this in the MadVR HDR to SD forum as its off topic there. However, I want to make sure I’m calibrating my JVC properly for HDR-SD content. Can you help confirm?

• When calibrating for JVC picture mode “Bt2020 (w/filter)” with Calman. What color space target do you use? “Bt.2020 SDR” or “D65, P3”? 
• When you’re calibrating for JVC picture mode “HDR (no filter)” with calman. What colorspace do you use - “D65,P3”?
• What gamma formula in Calman for both? Power 2.2.
• My PC is set to RGB full. Are you using luminance level “PC (0-255) in Calman.

Lastly, I calibrated Bt2020 w/filter JVC picture mode with D65,P3. I then chose “DCI-P3” in MadVR for “this display is calibrated to”. 


I know this is really basic stuff, but I don’t find HDR colorspace calibrating very straight forward. 

[Manni]

Hi Manni,

I’m not asking this in the MadVR HDR to SD forum as its off topic there. However, I want to make sure I’m calibrating my JVC properly for HDR-SD content. Can you help confirm?

• When calibrating for JVC picture mode “Bt2020 (w/filter)” with Calman. What color space target do you use? “Bt.2020 SDR” or “D65, P3”?
• When you’re calibrating for JVC picture mode “HDR (no filter)” with calman. What colorspace do you use - “D65,P3”?
• What gamma formula in Calman for both? Power 2.2.
• My PC is set to RGB full. Are you using luminance level “PC (0-255) in Calman.

Lastly, I calibrated Bt2020 w/filter JVC picture mode with D65,P3. I then chose “DCI-P3” in MadVR for “this display is calibrated to”.


I know this is really basic stuff, but I don’t find HDR colorspace calibrating very straight forward.

For madVR pixel shader tonemapping, you don't calibrate to HDR, you calibrate to SDR, so select a USER picture mode, not one of the HDR picture modes (BT2020, HDR) as these will use PQ, not power gamma by default, and you want to keep them that way.

Re levels, it depends on the OS version, driver version, GPU, bit depth, it's just impossible to tell you the right combination. Calman should be left to video levels (16-235) as this is what madVR expects. With my 1080ti in Win 10 x64 Pro build 1909 with latest nVidia in 8bits 4:4:4 I use GPU 0-255, madVR 16-235 and JVC 16-235 (standard). Gives the right video levels, but not for game or desktop use.

If you're not using a 3D LUT, it doesn't matter if you use BT2020 or P3, as long as saturations are tracking properly as far as the gamut go. Assuming you're not using a 3D LUT, I would select in the JVC and in Calman:

BT2020, P65, Gamma 2.4 and make sure in Calman that the PJ is tracking well with these targets. Your BT2020 cover will look under saturated, but as long as the saturations track, you'll be good to go. If you want your gamut graphs to look nicer, you can measure P3 within BT2020, there are some layouts that do that. This shows how P3 content measures within the BT2020 container.

In madVR's calibration tab, simply provide the settings you've used when calibrating/checking with Calman, in this case already "calibrated for" BT2020, D65, 2.4. The advantage of doing it this way is that you can use the same calibration with a consumer source, such as a Pana UB UHD player tonemapping to SDR BT2020.

If you use a 3D LUT when tonemapping HDR to SDR with madVR, it gets more complicated because you have to use a gamma target of 2.2 to create the 3D LUT. Also, it's recommended to use P3 rather than BT2020 to limit the risk of posterization. In that case, you need to create an SDR P3 USER mode with P3, D65, Gamma 2.2 (preferably, it can be anything) and a target gamma of 2.2 when generating the P3 3D LUT in Calman.

Either way, don't use the CMS for more than a few clicks, especially for saturation. It's not working, especially if you target 100% of your gamut. You have to find a gamut target that gives you the best average saturation tracking, but usually using the CMS will make things worse, not better. If you need any significant correction gamut wise, you need to use the JVC Autocal.

madVR calibration or Calman use is also off topic in this thread, so feel free to ask if you have any Autocal related questions, otherwise keep it simple for madVR, as suggested above.

There is a white paper on Spectracal/Portrait display's website on madVR calibration, I don't know how accurate or up to date it is but it's worth looking at it. You can also PM @LovingDVD on AVS, he's been through calibrating with Calman for madVR recently and he might be able to help. There are also a few tips in my mini-review linked in the second post. I'm sorry but I don't have the time at the moment to help more. I will try to create a thread for calibrating with madVR when it gets out of beta, but too many things are changing at the moment to do this without it being a  timesuck.

Good luck!

[CyberPaul]

Hi Manni,

Using my i1 pro 2 in Autocal I can't have the meter within the orange rectangle. Can you? Is that a problem? Since I can't get the VPR closer to the screen, as the message suggest, do you recommend to shrink the screen as much as I can? I noticed that results are good, even though Gray 12.5% is a little far from the reference, maybe because of the low luminance?
Also, the manual suggest a distance of 30cm/1 for the SpyderX. What about the i1 pro?

Thanks in advance

Hi Manni, can you please be so kind to respond to my question?

thanks.

[Set11]

Hi Manni,

Using my i1 pro 2 in Autocal I can't have the meter within the orange rectangle. Can you? Is that a problem? Since I can't get the VPR closer to the screen, as the message suggest, do you recommend to shrink the screen as much as I can? I noticed that results are good, even though Gray 12.5% is a little far from the reference, maybe because of the low luminance?
Also, the manual suggest a distance of 30cm/1 for the SpyderX. What about the i1 pro?

Thanks in advance

Not Manni (obviously), but I've asked him the same question before. His recommendation is to shrink the image down just like what you've done. 

[David Vaughn]

I had this exact problem last night as well. I got the gamma corrected (just about 500 hours on the projector and it was looking a bit flat), but when I went to calibrate the color with my old Eye 1 Pro, I couldn't get the meter inside of the box. Granted, colors look pretty good so I'm not stressing too much. I'll give it another go tonight and see if I can get it to work. 

[den110]

I bought a used i1pro 2! I tried performing an Autocalibration with very good results (PFA). As expected, the green was not bad as with SpyderX and apparently only a correction to the red has been applied. I checked the results with Calman using my i1d3 profiled and I can confirm the correct calibration. I think now we can say that SpyderX is not reading correctly the colors (especially green) and this is causing bad calibration. I still believe it is a matter of configuration, because I got acceptable results in HCFR with the right calibration matrix (standard led).

This is what I got doing a BT 709 calibration (gamma and color) with the SpyderX.  low lamp, -4.  Don't have another meter to check accuracy, but picture looks good.

[Jwb2]

Hello all,  Im using a ipro 2 for color calibration and a spyder x for gamma.  After calibrations for SDR 709 and HDR bt2020, everything looks great when I check the calibration results with my id3 pro/chromapure.

My issue is Im losing some brightness post calibration.  For example, for HDR pre calibration Im at 28FL.  Post HDR calibration, I drop down to 24FL.  Picture still looks great, but I wasnt sure if this loss of brightness was normal and to be expected or if I might have done something incorrect to cause it. 

I could never get the i pro 2 into the orange box during color calibration, so I left it about 2 ft from the screen.  Could this have caused my issue?  Or is it more likely that its the spyder X causing it?   

Any advice?  Thank you!

[alamagar]

This is what I got doing a BT 709 calibration (gamma and color) with the SpyderX.  low lamp, -4.  Don't have another meter to check accuracy, but picture looks good.

Hi,
I did recently the same with the SpyderX, -4, gamma and color autocal. Checking after with my i1d3, gamma was perfect but color was pretty bad with delta >5 in all colors. So I rolled back to my init state and made only gamma autocalibration. After that I did color calibration manually with the 1d3.

[Manni]

I had this exact problem last night as well. I got the gamma corrected (just about 500 hours on the projector and it was looking a bit flat), but when I went to calibrate the color with my old Eye 1 Pro, I couldn't get the meter inside of the box. Granted, colors look pretty good so I'm not stressing too much. I'll give it another go tonight and see if I can get it to work.

Super busy at the moment but I thought I'd take a minute as a few people asked about this recently.

I didn't reply about this because it's all in the basic section, preparation, meter(s) connection and positioning
The ipro never shows in the box, so don't waste time trying to make it fit.

• When positioning the meter, you want the meter icon on screen to be within the positioning box. For the Spyder 5, facing the PJ lens, this means that it should be to the right of the positioning box, in order to maximise dark readings. For the i1pro2 facing the screen, this means that it should be to the left of the positioning box. Personally, I wasn't able to achieve this with the i1pro2 so I suspect a bug. I therefore suggest you position the i1pro2 at your usual distance. For me, that's 2-3 feet from the screen when using full patterns (see pictures and advanced tips below).

@EVERYONE
Once more, if I don't answer a question, please look in the second post for a relevant link or in the FAQ, and re-read the relevant part in the basic section. The answer is usually there.

Of course, some don't mind replying to the same questions over and over again, and I thank them for their time.

But I'm more in the school of "teach someone to fish" than "give someone a fish"...

[CyberPaul]

Super busy at the moment but I thought I'd take a minute as a few people asked about this recently.

I didn't reply about this because it's all in the basic section, preparation, meter(s) connection and positioning
The ipro never shows in the box, so don't waste time trying to make it fit.

• When positioning the meter, you want the meter icon on screen to be within the positioning box. For the Spyder 5, facing the PJ lens, this means that it should be to the right of the positioning box, in order to maximise dark readings. For the i1pro2 facing the screen, this means that it should be to the left of the positioning box. Personally, I wasn't able to achieve this with the i1pro2 so I suspect a bug. I therefore suggest you position the i1pro2 at your usual distance. For me, that's 2-3 feet from the screen when using full patterns (see pictures and advanced tips below).

@EVERYONE
Once more, if I don't answer a question, please look in the second post for a relevant link or in the FAQ, and re-read the relevant part in the basic section. The answer is usually there.

Of course, some don't mind replying to the same questions over and over again, and I thank them for their time.

But I'm more in the school of "teach someone to fish" than "give someone a fish"...

I read that part of the FAQ but it sounded a little ambiguous to me.
When you say:

For the i1pro2 facing the screen, this means that it should be to the left of the positioning box. Personally, I wasn't able to achieve this with the i1pro2 so I suspect a bug. 

I took it literally, so I thought you were meaning you weren't able to have the i1pro2 to the left of the box. You meant instead that you weren't able to have it within the box... subtle but important difference
That's why I asked here. Thanks for clarifying.

[CyberPaul]

This is what I got doing a BT 709 calibration (gamma and color) with the SpyderX.  low lamp, -4.  Don't have another meter to check accuracy, but picture looks good.

As you can see, you are affected by the same inaccuracy on green. I'm pretty sure that your green is not that far from the reference. And trying to fix it, your Autocal is reducing the overall luminance (and making the green worse). Haven't you noticed a reduced luminance? Once I reset and calibrated color again using the i1 pro 2, I realized that the green was much better, as I was supposing. See my previous posts. I had the exact same behavior shown by you. And see what i1 pro 2 reported instead.

[randman]

What is the exact model number for the i1pro 2 that is needed? I was looking at X-rite’s web site and there are so many variations and I’m not sure which one is needed.