JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[Manni]

When ensuring 16 doesn't flash and 17 does, is this as per what I see from my viewing position - or when I'm up close to the screen?
It's literally -2 Brightness from my viewing position (knowing up close 16 will flash if I walked up to screen to view).  If I go to -3 from my viewing position I can barely see 17 flash.

Regarding the color calibration - I did i1dpro off screen - I did JVC autocal with Spyder5Pro facing lens before.  I set my screen type because I used the Spyder5Pro.  Does the fact I used the i1dpro+HCFR to fine tune after mean I should NOT be setting the screen type?

16 should NEVER flash, whether you have your nose up to the screen or from your sitting position. Better crush 17 than raise black (16). You should use the i1pro off screen with the autocal to do your color calibration. I think it should be supported. Then you only need to use the Discus trained to the i1pro to verify with Calman. This should give you better results.

[Manni]

Ok, that's what I'll do too.

Just to be clear:  I use a Spyder5Pro facing projector for JVC autocal of gamma+color, then I fine tune with HCFR+i1DPro off screen.  I had thought that the i1DPro doesn't work with JVC autocal (otherwise, I'd use that for it and then the fine-tuning off screen).

Finally - all of this calibration is a bit premature as I only have 73 hrs on the bulb (just getting practiced up for doing it a bit later once bulb burns in).  On that last point, how many bulb hrs exactly should I be doing the real calibration after?

As I said above, the i1pro should work fine for color autocal. Just check the notes as you need to use the button to make the dark reading so it's a bit tricky with only two hands.

I do an autocal every 200 hours, so it's never too early to do one and practice. Once you're happy with the results, just do a quick check every 100-200 hours or so, and if it needs more than just setting 100% white to D65, redo an autocal. I have checked at 500 hours and it hasn't drifted at all since my last autocal at 300 hours, so after a while it settles a bit.

[Manni]

I completely re-did my autocal

This looks very good, well done! Enjoy your calibrated PJ

[Sittler27]

16 should NEVER flash, whether you have your nose up to the screen or from your sitting position. Better crush 17 than raise black (16). You should use the i1pro off screen with the autocal to do your color calibration. I think it should be supported. Then you only need to use the Discus trained to the i1pro to verify with Calman. This should give you better results.

Ok, got it on the Brightness setting.

I didn't think the xRite i1Display Pro is supported by autocal - only the i1D2...isn't that right?
If it is supported, are you saying using it to do jvc autocal gamma & color calibrations off screen is the preferred way to run autocal rather than Spyder5Pro facing lens?

[Sittler27]

Ok, got it on the Brightness setting.

I didn't think the xRite i1Display Pro is supported by autocal - only the i1D2...isn't that right?
If it is supported, are you saying using it to do jvc autocal gamma & color calibrations off screen is the preferred way to run autocal rather than Spyder5Pro facing lens?

Just tried running autocal with my i1DPro connected and it says can't find meter. So I'm presuming then it's not supported, hence my use of the Spyder5Pro off lens for gamma+color and then fine tuning with HCFR+i1DPro off screen.

Given that approach, should I or shouldn't I be using screen type adjust in the projector's menu?

[Manni]

You were calling it an i1dpro which I misread for an i1pro

It is an i1display pro or i1d3 for short, not i1dpro...

Nothing to do with the i1pro, 1pro2 or EFI2000 which *are* supported by the autocal.

You only need to use the screen offset if you use the spyder to do a color autocal facing the lens. If you only use it to do a gamma autocal, you don't need the screen offset.

You might also want to try various screen offsets and see if one gives you better results.

Best is to get an i1pro/i1pro2.

[Sittler27]

You were calling it an i1dpro which I misread for an i1pro

It is an i1display pro or i1d3 for short, not i1dpro...

Nothing to do with the i1pro, 1pro2 or EFI2000 which *are* supported by the autocal.

You only need to use the screen offset if you use the spyder to do a color autocal facing the lens. If you only use it to do a gamma autocal, you don't need the screen offset.

You might also want to try various screen offsets and see if one gives you better results.

Best is to get an i1pro/i1pro2.

Would an i1pro2 be considered more accurate than my i1D3?

So if I understand correctly, an i1pro2 would allow me to use autocal gamma+color with accuracy to a point that thereafter I shouldn't really need to adjust much with HCFR after the autocal?

Just trying to also eliminate some steps in my current calibration workflow as I usually end up spending quite a bit of time fiddling with the greyscale on all the modes with patterns up and HCFR after autocal is done using my Spyder5Pro.

[Manni]

No an i1pro2 isn’t necessarily more accurate than an i1d3, but it is supported by the Autocal.

You can’t use it it for gamma, only for color.

You use the Spyder for gamma.

But yes having both means that you don’t have to use another software.

Please look at the post “which meter to use”

[Sittler27]

No an i1pro2 isn’t necessarily more accurate than an i1d3, but it is supported by the Autocal.

You can’t use it it for gamma, only for color.

You use the Spyder for gamma.

But yes having both means that you don’t have to use another software.

Please look at the post “which meter to use”

Ok, so if I stick with my current approach of using Spyder5Pro (gamma only) and then using HCFR+i1displaypro to fine tune the greyscale, do I or do I not need to input my screen type?

Also, I understand as not doing color with Spyder5Pro and autocal, I should just leave the CMS alone?

[Manni]

Never touch the CMS unless you know what you’re doing and are not targetting the gamut at 100%.

I don’t think you need to use the screen offset if you don’t do a color calibration with the spyder, but that’s not the way I use the software. It should be pretty obvious which is better (screen offset or no screen offset).

[Sittler27]

So, I did a proper autocal gamma + color with iris @ 0 and then color only for -5, -10 with my Spyder5Pro.

I then started to fine tune greyscale with HCFR+i1D3 off screen.  I turned off screen adjustment.
Gamma @ 2.4 with Picture Tone +3.  Brightness -3; contrast +1

HCFR showed dE below 1 all the way to 60 IRE where it then climbs to over 8dE at 100 IRE due to blue being too low.

It still took me a green gain adjustment of -5 and a blue offset adjustment of +5 to get 70-100IRE down to below 4dE.
This is all in my custom SDR709 mode.

Does that sounds right? 

I'm outputting from madvr a power gamma of 2.4.

[Manni]

So, I did a proper autocal gamma + color with iris @ 0 and then color only for -5, -10 with my Spyder5Pro.

I then started to fine tune greyscale with HCFR+i1D3 off screen.  I turned off screen adjustment.
Gamma @ 2.4 with Picture Tone +3.  Brightness -3; contrast +1

HCFR showed dE below 1 all the way to 60 IRE where it then climbs to over 8dE at 100 IRE due to blue being too low.

It still took me a green gain adjustment of -5 and a blue offset adjustment of +5 to get 70-100IRE down to below 4dE.
This is all in my custom SDR709 mode.

Does that sounds right?

I'm outputting from madvr a power gamma of 2.4.

If you did use the Spyder for color, you need to select the correct screen offset.

Please post, as requested, logs of the Autocal so we can see what the autocal thinks it's done, a verif with Calman before any changes so we can see the difference, and then a verification with Calman after your adjustments.

I suggest you use a target of 2.2 before your final adjustments so it's easier to see if the gamma autocal is correct or not.

Whether you use madVR or not is irrelevant. The autocal should deliver with 5dE of your target after fine-tuning the RGB balance. You can always get things closer if you use the 12-band gamma controls in the Autocal (using HCFR and the i1d3), but that takes more time. I use a madVR 3D LUT to do this automatically in 10mn (a Lightning LUT in Calman, which works fine if the Autocal gets things close enough).

Then if you tell madVR which target (gamut, gamma) you have actually reached on the PJ, the results should be accurate.

[Sittler27]

If you did use the Spyder for color, you need to select the correct screen offset.

Please post, as requested, logs of the Autocal so we can see what the autocal thinks it's done, a verif with Calman before any changes so we can see the difference, and then a verification with Calman after your adjustments.

I suggest you use a target of 2.2 before your final adjustments so it's easier to see if the gamma autocal is correct or not.

Whether you use madVR or not is irrelevant. The autocal should deliver with 5dE of your target after fine-tuning the RGB balance. You can always get things closer if you use the 12-band gamma controls in the Autocal (using HCFR and the i1d3), but that takes more time. I use a madVR 3D LUT to do this automatically in 10mn (a Lightning LUT in Calman, which works fine if the Autocal gets things close enough).

Then if you tell madVR which target (gamut, gamma) you have actually reached on the PJ, the results should be ac

When you say log of the autocal, do you mean the cbd files it generates upon completion?
Also, I don't own Calman.  Only HCFR and also DisplayCAL (which I use for 3DLUT later on - is this CALman?)

Anyways, also worth noting that in Natural mode, using the same 6500 setting and offset/gain adjustments I made for my custom SDR709 mode, I get a pretty good tracking on greyscale through out with dE under 1 actually.
So what could be causing the difference between Natural and custom SDR709 modes if all settings are basically the same between them?

Finally, on another note:  I get 15.5ftL at iris -10 and it jumps to 20.5ftL at iris -9  is that normal?

[Manni]

No, I mean screenshots of the logs that the autocal provides after calibration (see the basic guide, I post many of them). You can select gamut, gamma and RGB balance. That's what we need to see (ideally with a target of 2.2) to see if the results are good (according to the Spyder).

Sorry I thought you had Calman. HCFR for post-cal measurements and DisplayCAL for 3D LUT generation are fine.

Jumping from 15.5 to 20.5 looks like a lot for just one click, but I guess it's possible. There are some steps that are much bigger than others in the range. Make sure that both are calibrated to D65 though, because if you need large adjustments, that might be the reason (one is calibrated, the other isn't).

If you want to compare natural and custom, you have to autocal them both, unless they both use exactly the same settings (gamut, gamma, color temp, filter, iris, filter, lamp mode). Any of these can cause differences.

[Sittler27]

If I run an autocal with BT2020 (filter on), does it mean using a mode with the DCI-P3 filter would also be autocal'd since it is also a filter?