JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[David Vaughn]

OK...I got my RS2000 set up. Very good sample of the product. No bright corners as my X750R had and I'm impressed with the auto tone mapping on HDR from Vudu, Amazon, & Netflix. For UHD BD, I still plan on using SDR2020--I've had very good luck with this since not all discs contain the proper metadata and it's more plug-and-play for my wife.

Manni, one quick question. On your Maestro, what sync delay are you using? Also, do you have a screenshot of your "Macros" page anywhere? I'm using the Vertex, but I believe the screens are similar, right?

Thanks!

David

[Manni]

OK...I got my RS2000 set up. Very good sample of the product. No bright corners as my X750R had and I'm impressed with the auto tone mapping on HDR from Vudu, Amazon, & Netflix. For UHD BD, I still plan on using SDR2020--I've had very good luck with this since not all discs contain the proper metadata and it's more plug-and-play for my wife.

Manni, one quick question. On your Maestro, what sync delay are you using? Also, do you have a screenshot of your "Macros" page anywhere? I'm using the Vertex, but I believe the screens are similar, right?

Thanks!

David

Hi David,

Glad to hear you're happy with your unit

Yes the Vertex and Maestro settings should be fairly similar.
I attach my Maestro settings and the corresponding JVC modes:
User1 is SDR Rec-709 (for bluray/dvd)
User2 is SDR BT2020 (with filter, not used currently, except for tests)
User3 is SDR DCI-P3 (that's the calibration that the SDR BT2020 mode selects when madVR sends the BT2020 flag)
User4 is my HDR10 calibration with filter that uses the JVC static auto-tonemapping (with a manual default when there is no HDR metadata)
User5 is my 3D calibration
User6 is max bright to measure brightness / bulb aging (never calibrated with autocal) in high lamp / native gamut.
I use Natural for my Humax HDTV satellite box (720p50) as I use an SDR Rec-709 calibration with CMD low (for sports).
I have a HDR10 calibration without the filter in the HDR10 factory profile, that I select manually for tests.
I don't use the Maestro custom macro mode as if I send HDR10 content from a player in passthrough, it's usually to test or for streaming, so I'm in auto mode and my User4 calibration is selected for all HDR content irrespective of the HDR metadata.
I use exclusively madVR and its dynamic tonemapping in DCI-P3 for all critical HDR content (UHD Bluray).

I've asked HDR Fury to support MaxFALL, as it might make it possible to improve the custom algo, but I've not looked into the custom macro since I got the rs2000 as its automatic mode is fine for most streaming and madVR's dynamic tonemapping does far better with UHD Bluray content.

Hope this helps!

[David Vaughn]

Thanks Mani. I'm afraid that 5 seconds is much too short if I'm using the Vertex to switch, isn't it? Also, is there any negative to send on every sync?

[Manni]

Thanks Mani. I'm afraid that 5 seconds is much too short if I'm using the Vertex to switch, isn't it? Also, is there any negative to send on every sync?

Hi Dave,

I don’t think the Vertex adds much time to the switching, it’s mostly the projector. I would bring it down gradually, until you start missing some changes, then bringing back up a few secs. That’s how I ended up with the current 5secs (a huge improvement from the rs500).

Always switch between the two calibrations with the longest switch time when testing/deciding for this settings: one with the filter, one without, and one with the closest iris position, one with the most open one. HDMI sync time is also determined by the calibration settings (added time to swap filter in or out, added time to change fixed iris setting). For example, it takes a lot longer to switch between my sdr rec-709 (low lamp, no filter, iris -12) and my SDR BT2020 calibration (low lamp, filter, iris open) than it does switching between My SDR BT2020 and DCI-P3 calibration (same lamp, filter and iris settings).

I replaced the Vertex with the the Maestro before I got the RS2000, and my sync times didn’t change significantly (around 15-20 secs). It’s only when I got the rs2000 that I reduced the sync time in the Maestro down to 5secs. So worth checking even with the Vertex.

In theory there is no downside to not sync on each change, because the Maestro/Vertex is supposed to detect if the needed calibration is the same as the one already selected or not. For example, going from the menus to the movie usually doesn’t require a calibration change, even if it’s a new stream. So I suggest setting the sync time first with “send in every sync” enabled, then try to disable and see if you miss any change. If you don’t you can then try to reduce the Sync time a bit further.

The first change can be missed when the option is disabled, also it depends on the source and which mode you’re switching from/to.

if you don’t feel like you’re getting unnecessary black screens, leave it enabled. Otherwise, try disabling it.

[dsm1212]

I have an RS1000 and was about to buy a spyder5pro, but it seems they are discontinued. I called JVC and he said they have been telling people to buy the replacement model spyderX. He said it would work. I'm a tad skeptical about everything :-). Has anyone here tried a spyderX?

steve

[Manni]

I have an RS1000 and was about to buy a spyder5pro, but it seems they are discontinued. I called JVC and he said they have been telling people to buy the replacement model spyderX. He said it would work. I'm a tad skeptical about everything :-). Has anyone here tried a spyderX?

steve

The latest official word is that JVC is working on supporting the Spyder X. If someone tells you anything different, ask them to name their source and report back.

If the Spyder X was already supported, they would have added it to the list of supported meters.

Unless you can buy from a seller that accepts unconditional returns, I wouldn’t take the risk.

I haven’t seen anyone try and confirm it works.

[dsm1212]

The latest official word is that JVC is working on supporting the Spyder X. If someone tells you anything different, ask them to name their source and report back.

If the Spyder X was already supported, they would have added it to the list of supported meters.

Unless you can buy from a seller that accepts unconditional returns, I wouldn’t take the risk.

I haven’t seen anyone try and confirm it works.

Yeah, I feel the same way. It was the JVC support guy at 800-252-5722. He "seemed" to know exactly what I was asking and said "another customer" confirmed it worked. But my thought is he might be confusing 5Elite vs 5Pro since I still see 5Elite available in a few places. I'm in no rush so I'll wait a bit. I'm probably going to take my PJ down so I can paint the ceiling anyhow and would prefer to calibrate after I move it back in place.

[David Vaughn]

Hi Dave,

I don’t think the Vertex adds much time to the switching, it’s mostly the projector. I would bring it down gradually, until you start missing some changes, then bringing back up a few secs. That’s how I ended up with the current 5secs (a huge improvement from the rs500).

Always switch between the two calibrations with the longest switch time when testing/deciding for this settings: one with the filter, one without, and one with the closest iris position, one with the most open one. HDMI sync time is also determined by the calibration settings (added time to swap filter in or out, added time to change fixed iris setting). For example, it takes a lot longer to switch between my sdr rec-709 (low lamp, no filter, iris -12) and my SDR BT2020 calibration (low lamp, filter, iris open) than it does switching between My SDR BT2020 and DCI-P3 calibration (same lamp, filter and iris settings).

I replaced the Vertex with the the Maestro before I got the RS2000, and my sync times didn’t change significantly (around 15-20 secs). It’s only when I got the rs2000 that I reduced the sync time in the Maestro down to 5secs. So worth checking even with the Vertex.

In theory there is no downside to not sync on each change, because the Maestro/Vertex is supposed to detect if the needed calibration is the same as the one already selected or not. For example, going from the menus to the movie usually doesn’t require a calibration change, even if it’s a new stream. So I suggest setting the sync time first with “send in every sync” enabled, then try to disable and see if you miss any change. If you don’t you can then try to reduce the Sync time a bit further.

The first change can be missed when the option is disabled, also it depends on the source and which mode you’re switching from/to.

if you don’t feel like you’re getting unnecessary black screens, leave it enabled. Otherwise, try disabling it.

Thanks Manni...you're the best! BTW...our trip got postponed until some time in 2020, so that beer (or two) I owe you will have to wait a bit

[pbiancardi]

I apologize in advance if these are beginner questions, I have been reading and trying but its a lot of info lol.

My setup is JVC RS2000 with an Oppo UDP-203 and Lumagen Pro.

I have done the auto calibration with just the Spyder 5 so far but I have the i1 Pro 2 coming to do a more accurate color calibration.

Right now what is confusing me is that the Spears and Munsil HDR test disc has the blue filter pattern for both 709 and 2020, if I check this pattern it is spot on for 709 but way off for 2020 (with the projector filter enabled).  I have to go -20 on the color setting of the projector to make the 2020 pass the blue filter test (it also looks correct this way)?  I have the Oppo feeding the Lumagen "source direct" and the Lumagen feeding the JVC SDR2020.

I am wondering if I did something wrong on the auto calibration.  I did one calibration for SDR 709 (709 color, 2.4 gamma, 6500k) and one calibration for SDR 2020 (2020 color, 2.4 gamma, 6500k) is this correct?

I will rerun everything once I get the i1 Pro in (using Spyder for gamma only) but I am not clear if I should be doing the calibration twice or if one run through (regardless of color and gamma settings) just automatically does everything?  In addition should I be messing with the brightness, contrast, color and tint once the auto calibration is done or should those all be zero'ed out and the auto calibration theoretically sets all perfectly?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Edit one more thing - Is there any point to getting Calman or Chromapure to do a 3d LUT on the Lumagen in addition to the JVC calibration?

[Manni]

I apologize in advance if these are beginner questions, I have been reading and trying but its a lot of info lol.

My setup is JVC RS2000 with an Oppo UDP-203 and Lumagen Pro.

I have done the auto calibration with just the Spyder 5 so far but I have the i1 Pro 2 coming to do a more accurate color calibration.

Right now what is confusing me is that the Spears and Munsil HDR test disc has the blue filter pattern for both 709 and 2020, if I check this pattern it is spot on for 709 but way off for 2020 (with the projector filter enabled).  I have to go -20 on the color setting of the projector to make the 2020 pass the blue filter test (it also looks correct this way)?  I have the Oppo feeding the Lumagen "source direct" and the Lumagen feeding the JVC SDR2020.

I am wondering if I did something wrong on the auto calibration.  I did one calibration for SDR 709 (709 color, 2.4 gamma, 6500k) and one calibration for SDR 2020 (2020 color, 2.4 gamma, 6500k) is this correct?

I will rerun everything once I get the i1 Pro in (using Spyder for gamma only) but I am not clear if I should be doing the calibration twice or if one run through (regardless of color and gamma settings) just automatically does everything?  In addition should I be messing with the brightness, contrast, color and tint once the auto calibration is done or should those all be zero'ed out and the auto calibration theoretically sets all perfectly?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Edit one more thing - Is there any point to getting Calman or Chromapure to do a 3d LUT on the Lumagen in addition to the JVC calibration?

Hi there,

First of all, there is a bug in the Oppo 203 tonemapping, it outputs rec-709 even when it should output BT2020, so please confirm that you are not using the Oppo tonemapping but are passing through HDR and letting the PJ to tonemap.

As you suggest that you're using BT2020 and Gamma 2.4 / D65, it looks like you're using an SDR BT2020 calibration, that won't give the correct results with the Oppo. You need to passthrough HDR (so use a BT2020 PQ gamma D65 calibration ) or use an SDR rec-709 D65 calibration.

I've never used the S&M UHD patterns for checking a calibration as I use Calman, so I can't help with that.

You can't run a single calibration with an i1pro2 and a Spyder (if you want to make the best of each). You have to run a color only autocal with the i1pro2, and a gamma only autocal with the Spyder.

You could check the calibration with HCFR or displaycal, as they support both meters. Once you have confirmed that you are doing the autocal correctly, you can assess how far you are from reference and decide if investing in Calman or Chromapure is worth it or not. If your PJ is close to reference after an autocal and if saturations track well, it won't be necessary for most people. It really depends how picky you are, and what your results are. Look at my postcal results, you can see the difference with/without a 3D LUT.

I stopped using Chromapure ages ago, so I wouldn't recommend it. I would suggest to look into Calman or Lightspace to generate a 3D LUT for the Radiance Pro.

Hope this helps!

[pbiancardi]

Hi there,

First of all, there is a bug in the Oppo 203 tonemapping, it outputs rec-709 even when it should output BT2020, so please confirm that you are not using the Oppo tonemapping but are passing through HDR and letting the PJ to tonemap.

The Oppo is outputting "source direct" so for UHD its sending the HDR signal (which I understand avoids the 2020 "bug") to the Lumagen Pro which is doing dynamic tonemapping and sending SDR 2020 to the projector. 

And by multiple runs I mean do I need to calibrate color and gamma once for 709 and then again for 2020 or does one run take care of both?

[Manni]

The Oppo is outputting "source direct" so for UHD its sending the HDR signal (which I understand avoids the 2020 "bug") to the Lumagen Pro which is doing dynamic tonemapping and sending SDR 2020 to the projector.

And by multiple runs I mean do I need to calibrate color and gamma once for 709 and then again for 2020 or does one run take care of both?

Sounds good re the Oppo outputting HDR and the Lumagen doing the tonemapping to SDR BT2020. In that case I don't know what's wrong with your SDR BT2020 calibration. Maybe someone else will have an idea. I haven't used a Lumagen in a long time (since I got rid of my mini-3D) and have never used a Lumagen Pro, so can't help there.

If you change lamp mode or filter mode between 709 and bt2020, they are independant calibrations. So yes, you need to run one gamma (spyder) and one color (i1pro2) for each, assuming you don't want to be able to change the iris setting, otherwise you need to run a color calibration for each iris range that you want supported for each calibration (709 and 2020).

You might want to re-read the basic section, it's all in there.

[SirMaster]

I just ordered an i1 Pro 2 and will get it next week Friday! 

I have a lot to learn. So far I have got pretty good results with spyder5 for both gamma and color with autocal, but I am ready to take it to the next level. 

[Jbarteli]

Any news on the support for the Spider X? Should I buy the spider 5 or the new X?

[Manni]

Any news on the support for the Spider X? Should I buy the spider 5 or the new X?

The answer is the same. If you can wait, wait. If you can find a spyder 5 and need to calibrate, get one while you still can. There is no official news about spyder X supoort. It will come, but no idea when.