JVC Autocal Software V12 calibration for 2019 RS1000/RS2000/RS3000/NX5/NX7/NX9

[Manni]

Color or gamma isn't related to screen or lens. It's the meter used that matters.

If you only have a Spyder, you should always be facing the lens, not the screen, both for gamma and color. Unless you know that your spyder is accurate, or unless you correct its errors using a reference meter, it's not recommended to use the spyder for color, but it's fine to use it for gamma.

If you only have an i1pro2, you should only be facing the screen, but it's really not recommended to do a gamma autocal with an i1pro2, it's not reliable below 30% white.

If you have both a spyder and an i1pro2, then you use the spyder facing the lens for gamma, and the i1pro2 facing the screen for color.

Never use the spyder facing the screen, never use the i1pro facing the lens (or for gamma).

[riddle]

Ok... and whit i1pro2 this will works in some progress with iris set mode (-4,-8, -12) ?

[den110]

Hi Manni

Great write up on using the Autocal software.  I am waiting on delivery of the NX7.  I noticed you recommended the i1Pro2 for color calibration. I was searching online for prices and noticed such a big difference in price from the Spyder5 and the i1Pro2 (over $1000).  Is that correct or am I looking at the wrong model?

[Manni]

Hi Manni

Great write up on using the Autocal software.  I am waiting on delivery of the NX7.  I noticed you recommended the i1Pro2 for color calibration. I was searching online for prices and noticed such a big difference in price from the Spyder5 and the i1Pro2 (over $1000).  Is that correct or am I looking at the wrong model?

Hi there,

No the i1pro2 is a semi-pro spectrometer and can be quite expensive, though you only need the basic model.

You might also give the spyder a try with color, and see if you’s happy with the results. It’s a bit of a lottery but spyder 5s are not that bad and many of us have pretty accurate ones that deliver fairly good results with color calibration.

[Manni]

Ok... and whit i1pro2 this will works in some progress with iris set mode (-4,-8, -12) ?

 Sorry I’m not sure I understand the question. Can you rephrase?

[riddle]

Sorry I’m not sure I understand the question. Can you rephrase?

Like you write this:

Rec-709 (User 1)
0. Set the meter so it's to the right side of the box
1. Run Gamma + color autocal low lamp iris 0.
2. Run Color only autocal low lamp iris -4,-8, -12 (no need to move the meter)
3. Set lamp to high, move the meter back during the next step otherwise the patterns will be too bright
4. Run Gamma + color autocal high lamp iris 0
5. Run Color only autocal high lamp iris -4, -8, 12  (no need to move the meter from previous position)

DCI-P3 (User 2)
Do exactly the same as above, as the filter is engaged so it's different slots for the calibrations with low/high lamp.

[den110]

Hi there,

No the i1pro2 is a semi-pro spectrometer and can be quite expensive, though you only need the basic model.

You might also give the spyder a try with color, and see if you’s happy with the results. It’s a bit of a lottery but spyder 5s are not that bad and many of us have pretty accurate ones that deliver fairly good results with color calibration.

Hi Manni,

Can you tell me exactly which i1pro2 you use for color calibrations?  Is it the one for over $1000?  I want to have both meters for accurate calibrations.  If possible provide a link - description and purchase for the exact i1pro2 model you have (the basic one?)

Dennis

[Manni]

This is the one I have, i1basic pro 2: https://www.xrite.com/categories/calibration-profiling/i1basic-pro-2

Yes, it's more than $1000, but well worth it in my opinion, even more so now that it's supported by the JVC Autocal.

I might upgrade my Discus one day for a faster colorimeter (Klein K10a most likely if I find a good opportunity) but the only reason I would want to upgrade the i1pro2 is the need to do a white calibration before using it and then regularly during a session. Otherwise accuracy is fine for my needs, and speed mostly irrelevant as I only use it to profile my Discus, or for a very quick color Autocal.

[jbn008]

Color or gamma isn't related to screen or lens. It's the meter used that matters.

If you only have a Spyder, you should always be facing the lens, not the screen, both for gamma and color. Unless you know that your spyder is accurate, or unless you correct its errors using a reference meter, it's not recommended to use the spyder for color, but it's fine to use it for gamma.

If you only have an i1pro2, you should only be facing the screen, but it's really not recommended to do a gamma autocal with an i1pro2, it's not reliable below 30% white.

If you have both a spyder and an i1pro2, then you use the spyder facing the lens for gamma, and the i1pro2 facing the screen for color.

Never use the spyder facing the screen, never use the i1pro facing the lens (or for gamma).

Manni-

I really appreciate the helpful thread. My calibrator is coming tomorrow and he’ll be using both meters (1 for gamma and 1 for color as recommended). I only want 2 modes: SDR 709 and SDR HDR (NX5). 

Do I need to run the autocal for gamma just once at: user 1 rec709/6500k/iris at -12 (or should it be 0)

And color twice
user 1 rec709/6500k/iris -12
user 2 HDR/6500k/iris 0

does this sound right?

thanks,
jeremy

[Manni]

Hi Jeremy,

Your calibrator should be familiar with this, otherwise please ask him to read the relevant posts.

It is recommended to calibrate gamma with the iris fully open, to limit the risks of getting zero values near black, especially when using the 33 point gamma.

Because you don't have a filter on the N5, you will only need to run gamma once for your two calibrations if you don't change the lamp mode for your SDR rec-709 and (I assume your meant BT2020, not SDR) HDR calibration. Otherwise, you'll need to run a gamma calibration for each.

So assuming you use the same lamp mode for both calibration (it doesn't matter if it's low or high as long as it's the same), you would run gamma at 0 with the Spyder, then color at 0 and -12 with the i1pro to cover only the settings you mentioned. I would sugest that he also runs color at -8 and -4, that way you will be able to adjust the iris as the lamp ages in SDR without throwing the calibration out (assuming same lamp mode). 

If you use low lamp for SDR and high lamp for HDR, then you would do gamma and color at zero for HDR in high lamp, and gamma at 0 and color at 0, -4, -8 and -12 for SDR in low lamp.

[jbn008]

Hi Jeremy,

Your calibrator should be familiar with this, otherwise please ask him to read the relevant posts.

It is recommended to calibrate gamma with the iris fully open, to limit the risks of getting zero values near black, especially when using the 33 point gamma.

Because you don't have a filter on the N5, you will only need to run gamma once for your two calibrations if you don't change the lamp mode for your SDR rec-709 and (I assume your meant BT2020, not SDR) HDR calibration. Otherwise, you'll need to run a gamma calibration for each.

So assuming you use the same lamp mode for both calibration (it doesn't matter if it's low or high as long as it's the same), you would run gamma at 0 with the Spyder, then color at 0 and -12 with the i1pro to cover only the settings you mentioned. I would sugest that he also runs color at -8 and -4, that way you will be able to adjust the iris as the lamp ages in SDR without throwing the calibration out (assuming same lamp mode).

If you use low lamp for SDR and high lamp for HDR, then you would do gamma and color at zero for HDR in high lamp, and gamma at 0 and color at 0, -4, -8 and -12 for SDR in low lamp.

great.  Thank you Manni!

[kingsingh23]

Once the calibration is done...and I click save....why in the menu of the projector everything is still at 0.

[Manni]

Once the calibration is done...and I click save....why in the menu of the projector everything is still at 0.

Please read the first post and the relevant posts/documentation, as this is explained in the basic section.

The Autocal doesn't change any of the user menu settings, it changes internal tables depending on the lamp, filter and iris settings. It is recommended to never use the CMS and to reset the RGB offset/gains before calibration, otherwise they will be applied during the post-calibration log, even if they are ignored during calibration, which will make it harder for you to assess if the calibration was successful or not.

Some adjustments might be needed after calibration, but is should only be minor if the meter used is accurate.

[jbn008]

Hi Jeremy,

Your calibrator should be familiar with this, otherwise please ask him to read the relevant posts.

It is recommended to calibrate gamma with the iris fully open, to limit the risks of getting zero values near black, especially when using the 33 point gamma.

Because you don't have a filter on the N5, you will only need to run gamma once for your two calibrations if you don't change the lamp mode for your SDR rec-709 and (I assume your meant BT2020, not SDR) HDR calibration. Otherwise, you'll need to run a gamma calibration for each.

So assuming you use the same lamp mode for both calibration (it doesn't matter if it's low or high as long as it's the same), you would run gamma at 0 with the Spyder, then color at 0 and -12 with the i1pro to cover only the settings you mentioned. I would sugest that he also runs color at -8 and -4, that way you will be able to adjust the iris as the lamp ages in SDR without throwing the calibration out (assuming same lamp mode).

If you use low lamp for SDR and high lamp for HDR, then you would do gamma and color at zero for HDR in high lamp, and gamma at 0 and color at 0, -4, -8 and -12 for SDR in low lamp.

I really appreciate the help.  Unfortunately, we ran the 33 step gamma with the manual iris clamped down to where we were getting 20fl on screen (instead of the zero you recommended).  I didn't see your post until we were finished.

The post results were pretty good (only had to bump up the picture tone to +2 to track at 2.4), but I was wondering if I need to rerun it again with the iris at zero.  Or should it be fine until I have it recalibrated when the bulb ages?

Thanks again

[Manni]

If you’re happy with the results, don’t touch it until you need to.