AVS Discussions
Home Theater Setups => Work in progress => Topic started by: AVSMike on April 12, 2024, 11:16:28 AM
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Currently looking at designing my new theater. Still a little way out, since I have not bought the house yet. The room is currently 30' long and 15'-4" wide with an 8'-2" ceiling. Only problem is the ceiling only has a 7' wide flat and then slopes down at a 45 degree angle. The room has a large window at one end and a curved freestanding staircase at the other end. My plan is to section off this room by building a baffle wall about four feet in front of the window and then build a rear wall around 8' in from the other end. That would give me 17'-6" x 15'-4" x 8'-2" room to work with.
Audio wise, I will reuse a lot of what I have.
Have decided to buy all new speakers and subs. Though I will reuse my dual sealed 24" sub.
The baffle wall, it will be built flat, all the way across the room. But I will build it with an access door 24" x 50" to get behind the baffle wall. Baffle wall will be flat. I am trying to plan for the future. A future where this baffle will need to be flat for a 130" TV or modular flat panel.
The new baffle wall will be very much like my current one, except I will have four 18" subs in the baffle wall, rather than two. Each of the subs will be in 4.0CF (interior volume) sealed enclosures. In my existing baffle wall I had a recess at the bottom for the three 18" woofers for my LCR's which were in separate enclosures. This time, the baffle wall will not have the recess, So it will extend fully to the floor. All speakers and subs in the baffle wall will be flush with the baffle wall. The four subs and the three LCR woofers will all be in 4.0CF sealed enclosures. I will reuse my current 120" diagonal 2.37 power masking screen. Have decided I can fit a 130" diagonal 2.40 power masking screen, so will use new screen.
I only plan to install three seats in the room. Performance of this room will be similar to my existing room, with the exception that audio should be better due to larger room. The projector will be mounted outside the room. For side surrounds, I am thinking I will use RBH 831 SW/R on wall speakers. That way I have flexibility to move them if/when going to a flat panel. Rear speakers will be a pair of existing RBH 661SE in Burled Walnut on stands. Atmos speakers will be six Volt 10's, are undecided at this time, but they will be enclosed speakers mounted to ceiling speaker brackets, aimed at the main listening position.
The system will start out as a 7.1.4 System will be 9.1.6 from the start, using 3 subs (two pairs of 18 and one pair of 24's), but wired for 9.1.6. I am wiring for wides and for a total of six atmos speakers. Since I am reusing much of the same gear, I know the electrical requirements and will go ahead and install this work. Will be pulling five 120 volt 20amp circuits and one 220 volt 30 amp circuit to an alcove right outside the room, where the rack will be placed.
Have added a picture of the existing space and a picture of my current baffle wall. just picture the baffle wall not having the recess at the bottom and two pairs of 18" subs in the wall.
Planned equipment list
JVC RS4200 (repurpose from exiting room or whatever I own at the time)
Lumagen 4242 (repurpose from existing room)
ISCO 1.25X DLP Cinema Lens (purchased)
Seymour Screen Excellence Trim L120
LCR RBH SI-839/R9 (purchased)
Three TD18H+ woofers actively paired with LCR to make them 3-way full range (repurpose from exiting room)
Two DBX PA2 for active crossovers for LCR (repurpose from exiting room)
Buckeye Hypex NC502MP 6-channel amp for active LCR's (purchased)
Wides RBH 821-SF/R (purchased)
Side surrounds RBH 831-SW/R (purchased)
Two LaVoce SAF184.03 actively paired with side surrounds to make them 3-way full range (purchased)
One DBX PA2 for active crossovers for side surrounds (purchased)
Rear surrounds RBH 66-SF (repurpose from exiting room)
Atmos Six Volt 10 sealed (two purchased to go with four repurpose from exiting room)
Dual 24" sealed sub ((repurpose from exiting room)
CVR 3302 amp for dual 24" sub (repurpose from exiting room)
Four UMII 18-22 subs for baffle wall (purchased)
Four DIY Sound Group 4.0CF sealed boxes (purchased)
CVR 1504 amp for UMII 18-22 subs (purchased)
Prepro Marantz AV10 or whatever replaces it
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I look forward to reading about you build Mike. Looks like it will be a good space.
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You must be moving to a new house. Sounds like a big project.
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Love build threads. Look forward to the journey!
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Laid out and cut out all of the box for electrical and speaker connection behind where the rack will go. I also pulled five 40' runs of 12/2 with ground and one 40' run of 10/2 with ground. Forgot to take pictures. Will do so tomorrow. Not sure how much I will get done tomorrow, have a funeral to go to. Do want to get all the circuits completed this weekend.
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Good luck with the build, such an exciting time! I'm envious of your plan to put the projector outside of the room - a huge benefit to lowering the noise floor of the room.
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I just calculated the coverage of the horns on my tweeters, to see what the variance would be per seat, if I just went with a flat baffle. With my current 8' viewing distance. I can get the tweeter to within plus/minus 2.3db in all seats, with main seat at a theoretical 0db difference. The viewing angle to right and left main would be 25 degrees. So within Dolby spec. This will be much simpler to build and would require very little modification, if I ever went to 130" TV or modular panel.
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Installed 850LF of 12 gauge speaker wire this weekend. Ran 16 runs. 27 total runs to be pulled. Also ran the power to the projector location and a 1" smurf tube to the baffle wall location for control. Lights and dimmers are coming tomorrow. Will test to make sure I like how they dim, before installing the lights.
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Did you just fish it all through? Or remove drywall?
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Did you just fish it all through? Or remove drywall?
Fishing it all and it wasn't easy.
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Good job Mike. I'm trying to fish just one 25' run of coax for an OTA antenna in my attic, with some existing cables & holes in place and it's a pain!
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yikes. yeah fishing is awful. glad its done though
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yikes. yeah fishing is awful. glad its done though
I wish mine was done. I have 11 more runs of speaker pulls to make. Running a 9.1.6 system with five subs and since my LCR's are 3-way active, it take 9 runs just for them.
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Good job Mike. I'm trying to fish just one 25' run of coax for an OTA antenna in my attic, with some existing cables & holes in place and it's a pain!
I hope I'm done going in the attic. It can be extremely hot in my attic during the summer. For some reason that's always when I have to run speaker wire up there!
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I wish mine was done. I have 11 more runs of speaker pulls to make. Running a 9.1.6 system with five subs and since my LCR's are 3-way active, it take 9 runs just for them.
Omg hahahaha
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Yep, attic was very warm last weekend here even with temps in the 70s! It's dropped this week but not for long so I have a small window before it goes from uncomfortable to just unbearable.
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Here is rough in for the rack. Still have one more box to cut in. Will have:
Twenty seven speaker/sub connections (Amazon has sent the wrong plate twice. That is why one is white.)
Five 20 amp circuits
One 220 volt 30 amp circuit (where blank plate is shown) Wire in place, will pull plug and breaker from my existing house.
One male 120 volt receptacle to get power to the projector. This way I can have surge protection at the rack for the projector.
One box for smurf tube to projector.
Still need to cut in one more box for Smurf tube to baffle wall for control sensor. Smurf tube is run, just behind the wall.
Received the lights and dimmers today. Using these lights. https://www.amazon.com/NICKLED-Recessed-Adjustable-Rotatable-Downlight/dp/B0CNCRFLR7/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1TFR60WEKUT9A&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.OTbMwrRJIpzS-bILY17hdChl8f83o8rC829HcIXVgKN_UAZA3Inp-xmwFP2-wo4a1TWuhHlHwn-HSsjIz09uNFeHLPAYzLi-SNErKFEPLebksRLsT1BvHLYvQlSqE_ulPRrYLBdLWRUBxSccHmx1DmaUDisGKYW7kEIM-GJ9bJ5DHkhYAGIOVL9CgOMMpsPjFJybgDZ3-VjeC6qLAg4JTmw-dgmlZWBfQT4Vi3rBuNhIHiSefYHaOOD6K0eOeTqPqitLQCbsapaHayvClB59LaBGxWgOBOfdkQVoyj8SX4g.w3AfN6aNTOlM_zjpAi6kWNXyhrLHYv7B_S4cbXyN2lA&dib_tag=se&keywords=4+Inch+Black+Gimbal+LED+Recessed+Light%2C+Adjustable+Rotatable+Downlight+Lighting+Fixture%2C12W+100W&qid=1713835684&s=hi&sprefix=4+inch+black+gimbal+led+recessed+light%2C+adjustable+rotatable+downlight+lighting+fixture%2C12w+100w%2Ctools%2C109&sr=1-2 (https://www.amazon.com/NICKLED-Recessed-Adjustable-Rotatable-Downlight/dp/B0CNCRFLR7/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1TFR60WEKUT9A&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.OTbMwrRJIpzS-bILY17hdChl8f83o8rC829HcIXVgKN_UAZA3Inp-xmwFP2-wo4a1TWuhHlHwn-HSsjIz09uNFeHLPAYzLi-SNErKFEPLebksRLsT1BvHLYvQlSqE_ulPRrYLBdLWRUBxSccHmx1DmaUDisGKYW7kEIM-GJ9bJ5DHkhYAGIOVL9CgOMMpsPjFJybgDZ3-VjeC6qLAg4JTmw-dgmlZWBfQT4Vi3rBuNhIHiSefYHaOOD6K0eOeTqPqitLQCbsapaHayvClB59LaBGxWgOBOfdkQVoyj8SX4g.w3AfN6aNTOlM_zjpAi6kWNXyhrLHYv7B_S4cbXyN2lA&dib_tag=se&keywords=4+Inch+Black+Gimbal+LED+Recessed+Light%2C+Adjustable+Rotatable+Downlight+Lighting+Fixture%2C12W+100W&qid=1713835684&s=hi&sprefix=4+inch+black+gimbal+led+recessed+light%2C+adjustable+rotatable+downlight+lighting+fixture%2C12w+100w%2Ctools%2C109&sr=1-2)
Dimming worked smooth, no flicker. Keeping it simple with eight small LED lights and three Lutron Caseta dimmers. Will control two of them by my Harmony Pro 2400 remote. Third dimmer is for the lights at the back of the room. Will be able to control from wall or the APP. May also set up all lights to be controlled by voice.
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I don't want a bar/counter in my room for acoustic reasons, but since I do have around six feet behind my sub that will be right behind the seats. I think I will have three or four bar stools right outside the room for when I need seating for more than three. Something like these.
https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/darby-home-co-greer-swivel-29-bar-stool-w005059717.html (https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/darby-home-co-greer-swivel-29-bar-stool-w005059717.html)
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Here is how I am going to mount my atmos speakers and all of the acoustic treatments. Will use 1/2 unistrut and a cover. This allows me to be able to reposition my speakers and sound treatments in my room. And provide a nice clean look. 1/2 strut is only 13/16" in height. Is a lot more discreet than full 1-5/8" height unistrut.
(https://i.imgur.com/f761TDt.png)
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Here is how I am going to mount my atmos speakers and all of the acoustic treatments. Will use 1/2 unistrut and a cover. This allows me to be able to reposition my speakers and sound treatments in my room. And provide a nice clean look. 1/2 strut is only 13/16" in height. Is a lot more discreet than full 1-5/8" height unistrut.
(https://i.imgur.com/f761TDt.png)
Mike,
Where did you get those covers from? I have my projector mounted on Unistrut and that would really clean up the install.
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Mike,
Where did you get those covers from? I have my projector mounted on Unistrut and that would really clean up the install.
This is one reason I posted this. I figured several others would be interested in this. I will be doing several interesting things with this build.
https://www.fastenersplus.com/products/plastic-channel-closure-strip-5-ft-black?utm_term=&utm_campaign=z%23+Shopping+-+Diamond+Blades+and+Accessories&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=3477180114&hsa_cam=20384453192&hsa_grp=152322219998&hsa_ad=666245164287&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=pla-2223333861487&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw_e2wBhAEEiwAyFFFo9LGb8lKq9EZHKyOwuEo1md7oLuhl7HeEE-nFWoN0qacfhk7BURYEhoCcV4QAvD_BwE (https://www.fastenersplus.com/products/plastic-channel-closure-strip-5-ft-black?utm_term=&utm_campaign=z%23+Shopping+-+Diamond+Blades+and+Accessories&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=3477180114&hsa_cam=20384453192&hsa_grp=152322219998&hsa_ad=666245164287&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=pla-2223333861487&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw_e2wBhAEEiwAyFFFo9LGb8lKq9EZHKyOwuEo1md7oLuhl7HeEE-nFWoN0qacfhk7BURYEhoCcV4QAvD_BwE)
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Installed the wood blocking for the projector today. This blocking was holding up several things,like:
Completing the smurf tube to the projector.
Completing the smurf tube to the baffle wall.
Completing all of the pulls of speaker wire.
I started pulling wire and the smurf tube, only to find out the spot in the attic that I needed to get to for the wood blocking was so small and tight, that all of the wire and tubing was going to block access. Getting in that one piece of blocking was not something i was looking forward to doing, but got it finished and got both pieces of smurf tube finished, along with the 17/27 pulls of speaker wire. Also cut the eight holes for the recessed lights.
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Lot's of work there.
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Today after work I installed the 1/2 unistrut for mounting the atmos speakers and pulled the six drops for the atmos speakers. The drops come through the unistrut.
(https://i.imgur.com/3KhlTRn.png)
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And here is a picture with the cap on the unistrut. Will be a nice clean install.
(https://i.imgur.com/oyPKqVC.png)
I also installed one light fixture, but did not take a picture. Will do a few more tomorrow and will take pictures. Once I get the new lights hooked up, I will take the old track lighting down.
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That’s def a slick meathod. Very nice and gives options
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Pulled the wire to all the lights and installed them. Currently all of the lights are on the old dimmer. Will be installing three new dimmers, but they go in the end wall that I can't build yet. Need to take down track lighting and pull the painters tape off the ceiling. I currently have 22 of the 27 speaker wire pulls made.
(https://i.imgur.com/r14FBOX.png)
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Wow. Making great progress. Nicely done
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All the speaker runs in the walls and ceiling are pulled. I have two runs going in the floor for the dual 24" sub and power going in the floor for the seats. Both will be in the same floor box. I now need to start terminating all of the speaker connections. Need to pull down the old track lights. This will probably be all I do until I take possession of the house.
(https://i.imgur.com/R3iQu0L.png)
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That will be a large step complete for sure
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I figure even with me doing all the work and reusing much of my equipment, this is still going to cost me 40/50k. Since I want to spread out the cost on this build over time, I am going to go ahead and buy some items. Going to order the side surround speakers for the new room and just use them in my existing room. Going from Volt 10 side surrounds to RBH 831-SW/R on wall speakers. Later I will be ordering a pair of RBH SV-831R speakers for the wides. The Volt 10 will be repurposed for Atmos in the new room. I have four Volt 10's. Will need to build two more.
Side surround: https://www.rbhsound.com/shop/831-sw-r-13797?page=2&category=14&order=name+asc#attr=296 (https://www.rbhsound.com/shop/831-sw-r-13797?page=2&category=14&order=name+asc#attr=296)
Wides: https: https://www.rbhsound.com/shop/sv-831r-black-13931?page=3&category=15&order=name+asc#attr=167 (https://www.rbhsound.com/shop/sv-831r-black-13931?page=3&category=15&order=name+asc#attr=167)
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Why not go volt10 all around? You can even bury the volt 10’s in wall if you wanted.
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In my current theater I was using sealed Volt 10 for side and rear surround and ported Volt 8 for the four atmos speakers. In the new room I will be using six sealed Volt 10's for the atmos. The new room is much larger, so I can use a larger speaker for side and rear surrounds. Volt 10's are not very good off axis and their response could be a little smoother.
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The RBH 831-SW/R side surrounds arrived yesterday. Here is a picture of one of them next to an RBH 661-SE in Burled Walnut. The 661-SE's will be used as the rear surrounds. The 661 looks small compared to the 831 and the 661 is nearly 2' tall.
(https://i.imgur.com/v4SDplJ.png)
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just ordered three RBH SI-831/R9 speakers for the baffle wall. The wider dispersion on these will do better than the horn loaded TPL-150H speaker in a flat baffle. I tested this yesterday. Sound wise on my angled baffle, it was hard to tell a difference, but off angle the RBH's did better.
https://www.rbhsound.com/shop/si-831-r9-13788?page=3&category=13&order=name+asc#attr=71 (https://www.rbhsound.com/shop/si-831-r9-13788?page=3&category=13&order=name+asc#attr=71)
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Very nice, Mike. The RBH 831s are wall mounted? That's a nice setup to have 831s across the front plus sides. What's the dispersion like on their AMT?
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Very nice, Mike. The RBH 831s are wall mounted? That's a nice setup to have 831s across the front plus sides. What's the dispersion like on their AMT?
120 degrees horizontal. Whereas the TPL150H tweeters are 80 degrees horizontal. Vertical is 30 degrees, which I like, since you get very little floor or ceiling bounce.
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My three RBH SI-831/R9 are scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. I also decided to try the large commercial ISCO 1.25x Optic Cinema DLP Widescreen attachment lens. This lens is massive and weighs around 20 pounds. Lens is also scheduled for delivery tomorrow. It is a horizontal expansion lens, but is supposed to provide the sharpest image of all the A-lens. My new room with have a longer throw with a throw ratio of 2.61. I should only get 5/16" of pincushion, which I can shoot off the screen. Been designing in my head, the mount for the lens. Should be pretty easy to make a mount that adjusts up and down and tilts. Plane on the lens sitting in the rear wall with the projector outside of the room.
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That ISCO lens sure wouldn't work with my 1.4 SW throw distance!
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That ISCO lens sure wouldn't work with my 1.4 SW throw distance!
Sure it would. This is the large commercial 18lb ISCO lens. Will work with a much shorter throw distance than the DCR. I believe it works down to a 1.25 throw. But that throw is based on the width of the 16:9 image, not the width of the scope image. The diameter of this lens is 192mm (7.56")
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Sure it would. This is the large commercial 18lb ISCO lens. Will work with a much shorter throw distance than the DCR. I believe it works down to a 1.25 throw. But that throw is based on the width of the 16:9 image, not the width of the scope image. The diameter of this lens is 192mm (7.56")
I'd probably need a curved screen - https://www.avsforum.com/threads/isco-1-25-minimum-throw.3219830/
Anyway, I'm happy with my DCR lens. No need to go down new rabbit holes in my theater.
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Lens arrived. Not much smaller than a dinner plate. (https://i.imgur.com/0iYpumD.jpeg)
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Ordered parts to build a stand mount, where I can adjust height and tilt.
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The three RBH SI-831/R9's arrived early evening yesterday. Shortly after arrival, we had a storm that knocked power out for several hours. These are designed to be mounted in a baffle wall. (https://i.imgur.com/CtNC8wL.jpeg)
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I guess I am moving to an RS4200. Sold my RS4100 today.
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Jelly! Sounds awesome.
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The 3" x 3" x 1/4" angle I ordered, came in yesterday. So I was able to build the stand for the ISCO 1.25x lens. I need to take it apart and paint the angle. Will do that today.
(https://i.imgur.com/oTMwqeM.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gDAQP5i.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/osxUyhM.jpeg)
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Lens stand finished.
(https://i.imgur.com/T3ODsZN.jpeg)
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Looks good, gotta be nice to have a shop where you can custom make all the pieces you make.
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Looks good, gotta be nice to have a shop where you can custom make all the pieces you make.
Sold the shop last summer. Made this at my house. Only tools required, a power miter box and a drill. :)
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RS4200 arrived today. :)
(https://i.imgur.com/hdhrAaY.jpeg)
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Jelly!!!
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Ordered two more Volt 10 sealed atmos flat packs. That gets me to the six that I need for atmos speakers.
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I would live to build someone diysoundgroup speakers. Those are so fun to build
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Ordered my wides today for my new room. RBH 821-SF/R.
https://www.rbhsound.com/shop/821-sf-r-31568?page=2&category=15&order=name+asc#attr=352
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Originally I planned on building or buying speaker stands for the wides and for the rear surrounds. But I am going to use a wall bracket and speaker plate. That way I don't have to worry about a speaker stand getting bumped. I will install two pieces of 3/4 unistrut on the wall like I did for the atmos speakers on the ceiling. Will install cover on the strut, to give it clean appearance. I will be able to move the speaker forward and back, if needed. Here is painted 3/4 unistrut with cover and the bracket and plate I will use.
(https://i.imgur.com/WWnlexY.png)(https://i.imgur.com/rdJhfj4.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/VLw7lkj.png)
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Picked up another DBX PA2 for crossover duty. Will use it to make the side surrounds full range. My LCR's are already full range capable. Long term goal, I will probably make all lower level speakers full range, by adding 18" subs actively to the wides and to the back surrounds.
(https://i.imgur.com/vdGSMXj.jpeg)
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Here is what the brackets for the wides and rear surrounds will look like. I placed the wall mount on top of a speaker that was sitting on a pedestal and then flipped the picture upside down. I will have two horizontal runs of 3/4 unistrut, so that position is adjustable.
(https://i.imgur.com/8xiStdk.jpeg)
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OF COURSE I looked at the pic before reading and was like wtf. why are they so high off the ground haha
nice!
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OF COURSE I looked at the pic before reading and was like wtf. why are they so high off the ground haha
nice!
The upside down couch didn't make you wonder what Mike's up to? ;D
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Here is what the brackets for the wides and rear surrounds will look like. I placed the wall mount on top of a speaker that was sitting on a pedestal and then flipped the picture upside down. I will have two horizontal runs of 3/4 unistrut, so that position is adjustable.
(https://i.imgur.com/8xiStdk.jpeg)
I got dizzy looking at this picture!
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The upside down couch didn't make you wonder what Mike's up to? ;D
Hahah. Eyes went right for the speaker.
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Just ordered the amp for the four 18" subs that will be in the baffle wall. A CVR DSP-1504. I decided to get this ordered, in case tariffs are added.
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Just ordered the amp for the four 18" subs that will be in the baffle wall. A CVR DSP-1504. I decided to get this ordered, in case tariffs are added.
Does that amp have built in EQ?
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Does that amp have built in EQ?
Yes it does.
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Awesome.
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Ordered five 4.0CF sealed flat pack subwoofer boxes. Will reuse two existing 4.0CF sealed boxes. Three will be for the lower 18" woofer (TD18H+) for my LCR's in the baffle wall and four of these boxes will be for the UMII 18-22 subs going in the baffle wall. Two of the boxes arrived last Thursday and I have put those together. Waiting on the other three.
I also ordered two 4 ohm LaVoce SAF184.03 Drivers to actively pair with the side surrounds (RBH 831-SW/R) speakers. Purchased another DBX PA2 for crossover duty for the side surrounds. These boxes need to be built custom. So will build the box for these, at some point.
Last I ordered a Buckeye Hypex NC502MP six channel amp. 500 watts per channel amp. This amp will be used to power my front three speakers RBH SI-831 R/9 speakers actively paired with the TD18H+ drivers. The wides, side surrounds and the rear speakers will be powered by an existing Buckeye Hypex NC252MP six channel amp.
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Very cool, Mike. Those Buckeye amps don't look great but who cares - they are state of the art Class D sound from all accounts. I was considering them vs VTV amps a few months ago. This was due to a failed 8 channel Marantz powering my surround & height channels. Decided to instead go with a Starke Sound Fiera 8 which frequently goes on sale for $999, and is plenty good enough for what I'm running in those channels.
I saw an article somewhere recently about testing done with bass and uncorrelated vs correlated - basically stereo / multi-channel vs mono, which showed that a sub for each channel truly does yield big benefits that can easily be heard by untrained listeners. Your room sounds gloriously uncorrelated!
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Very cool, Mike. Those Buckeye amps don't look great but who cares - they are state of the art Class D sound from all accounts. I was considering them vs VTV amps a few months ago. This was due to a failed 8 channel Marantz powering my surround & height channels. Decided to instead go with a Starke Sound Fiera 8 which frequently goes on sale for $999, and is plenty good enough for what I'm running in those channels.
I saw an article somewhere recently about testing done with bass and uncorrelated vs correlated - basically stereo / multi-channel vs mono, which showed that a sub for each channel truly does yield big benefits that can easily be heard by untrained listeners. Your room sounds gloriously uncorrelated!
Eventually I want to actively add 18's to my wides and rear speakers. Looking at pro woofers, because I want to cross them over at 200hz to 300hz. Then all nine lower level speakers will have the ability to be run full range.
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Received my Buckeye Hypex NC502MP 6-channel amp today. Will install this weekend.
https://www.buckeyeamp.com/shop/amplifiers/hypex/nc502mp/6_channel (https://www.buckeyeamp.com/shop/amplifiers/hypex/nc502mp/6_channel)
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Equipment list added to first post.
Planned equipment list
JVC RS4200 (repurpose from exiting room or whatever I own at the time)
Lumagen 4242 (repurpose from existing room)
ISCO 1.25X DLP Cinema Lens (purchased)
Seymour Screen Excellence Trim L120 (purchased)
LCR RBH SI-839/R9 (purchased)
Three TD18H+ woofers actively paired with LCR to make them 3-way full range (repurpose from exiting room)
Two DBX PA2 for active crossovers for LCR (repurpose from exiting room)
Buckeye Hypex NC502MP 6-channel amp for active LCR's (purchased)
Wides RBH 821-SF/R (purchased)
Side surrounds RBH 821-SW/R (purchased)
Two LaVoce SAF184.03 actively paired with side surrounds to make them 3-way full range (purchased)
One DBX PA2 for active crossovers for side surrounds (purchased)
Rear surrounds RBH 831-SW/R (purchased)
Atmos Six Volt 10 sealed (two purchased to go with four repurpose from exiting room)
Dual 24" sealed sub ((repurpose from exiting room)
CVR 3302 amp for dual 24" sub (repurpose from exiting room)
Four UMII 18-22 subs for baffle wall (purchased)
Four DIY Sound Group 4.0CF sealed boxes (purchased)
CVR 1504 amp for UMII 18-22 subs (purchased)
Prepro Marantz AV10 (purchased)
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Decided to not reuse my RBH 66-SF speakers for rear surrounds. Ordered and received today a pair of RBH 821-SW/R speakers. Will use them for side surrounds actively paired with LaVoce SAF184.03 18" drivers to give the side surrounds full range (20hz to 20k hz) performance. Will move the RBH 831-SW/R speakers to rear surrounds. I also ordered a Marantz AV10 today.
Have purchased all of the speakers and subs for my new room. Have the prepro and amps purchased. Only piece of equipment left to purchase is the Screen Excellence L-120 power masking screen.
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Ordered my new screen yesterday. A Seymour Screen Excellence L-120 with Neo fabric. Ordered 2.37 aspect ratio, when masks are fully open. Using IR control, so that I can use my universal remote to control the masking. I am not interested in auto masking, because I do not want the masking to be opening and closing on aspect ratio movies. I know you can lock it in position, but if I am not there to do that, then whoever is using my system will have a problem. Much simpler to just press the aspect ratio button on the remote. This is how I have my current screen an L-110 set up now. Been very happy with this setup. Bought that screen in 2020.
https://www.seymourscreenexcellence.com/trim.php (https://www.seymourscreenexcellence.com/trim.php)
I have now purchased all the equipment for the new room.
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I absolutely love having a remote-controlled masking system. It's RF instead of IR, so I can't control it with my URC remote, but it's one of those things you only have to adjust once per movie, so that's not a great deal.
In my old system, it was a manual process and nowhere near as convenient.
As good as the blacks are with JVC projectors, masking is still a noticeable improvement.
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I absolutely love having a remote-controlled masking system. It's RF instead of IR, so I can't control it with my URC remote, but it's one of those things you only have to adjust once per movie, so that's not a great deal.
In my old system, it was a manual process and nowhere near as convenient.
As good as the blacks are with JVC projectors, masking is still a noticeable improvement.
Have you ever looked into the Bond Hub? I used one of these for a customer with a Control4 system, it converts IR/RF to a wifi signal that I was able to get a driver for and integrate his fireplace and blinds into the C4 interface.
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Have you ever looked into the Bond Hub? I used one of these for a customer with a Control4 system, it converts IR/RF to a wifi signal that I was able to get a driver for and integrate his fireplace and blinds into the C4 interface.
Thanks for the tip! I'll have to look into that device.
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Marantz AV10 arrived today. Triple boxed. :)
(https://i.imgur.com/A7ptyIO.png)
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Woah. The elusive triple box lll