AVS Discussions
Projectors => Premium Projectors => Topic started by: AVSMike on November 04, 2020, 10:28:19 PM
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Panamorph is introducing two new DCR lenses. These are direct attach lenses. They fit close to the projector lens. This allows them to be smaller and cheaper, while still performing like the larger DCR lens. They work down to a 1.4 throw ratio.https://www.panamorph.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/DCR-J1-scaled.jpg (https://www.panamorph.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/DCR-J1-scaled.jpg)
The MSRP of these new lenses is $5,995.
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Panamorph is introducing two new DCR lenses. These are direct attach lenses. They fit close to the projector lens. This allows them to be smaller and cheaper, while still performing like the larger DCR lens. They work down to a 1.4 throw ratio.https://www.panamorph.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/DCR-J1-scaled.jpg (https://www.panamorph.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/DCR-J1-scaled.jpg)
The MSRP of these new lenses is $5,995.
So if I’m doing my math right
i have a 113” (9.14’) wide 2.4:1 screen and the lense is a few inches further away than 13’
that puts me right around 1.4 throw (I think)
would these work? The benefit is using all the PJ pixels instead of the using the zoom Meathod to fill the screen correct? Which in turn adds brightness
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Very clean attachment with these lenses !
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Additional info from Shawn Kelly of Panamorph, stolen from elsewhere -
" To remove the lens itself involves removing the two screws in front and pulling the J1/S1 out. This will leave a retaining ring in the lens opening that is part of the installation but doesn't interfere with usage even without the lens.
Throw distance is pretty much the entire range of the projector. At extreme vertical shift from the screen top the max image size will gradually decrease because the beam can get cut off but for the vast majority of installations it's full range as long as the projector is horizontally centered on the screen +/- a few inches.
These lenses are far easier to set up than the plate-based systems because they're designed for each specific projector model. However, it's worth repeating that they are optimized for 2.4:1 screens so older 2.35:1 screens will show most movies with a bit of left/right overspill.
Also FWIW, besides being optimized for 2.4:1 screens these lenses will have more limited compatibility with extreme vertical shift scenarios because they are actually recessed into the projector lens opening. We do not recommend use at low throw ratios where projector vertical placement is significantly (ie feet instead of inches) below or above the top of the screen. Horizontal centering should be within a few inches of the screen center as well. If more universal compatibility is desired that's what the full size Paladin DCR is for but within typical home theater installations the performance will be identical. "
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Installation goes like this (and a single Philips screwdriver is all that’s required) …
Unpack the lens. Remove the two screws that attach the lens mount to the retainer ring to remove the retainer ring (it comes loosely assembled).
Install the retaining ring into the projector opening with the studs level and toward the ceiling.
Make sure the projector lens is horizontally centered in the projector (and therefore that the projector is horizontally centered on the screen and pointing at the screen horizontal center).
Make sure the projector test pattern is confirmed to be square with the screen (ie no projector roll, pitch or yaw).
Make sure the projector lens is clean (a microfiber cloth is included).
Remove the rear DCR lens cover, install the DCR lens over the retaining ring and tighten the two screws just enough to secure the DCR lens while allowing the assembly to be rotated in the projector opening.
Remove the front film and make sure the DCR lens rotation is proper by making sure the test pattern is symmetric, then tighten the two assembly screws a bit more (don’t over tighten).
Show a 2.4:1 movie, put the projector in proper anamorphic mode (V-Stretch for Sony, Anamorphic C for JVC) and then fill the width of the screen with the movie.
Adjust the lens tilt and projector vertical shift to make sure the beam is getting through the lens to fill the screen.
There is only a slight variation in vertical image height with this adjustment but experimentation may lead to the best fit.
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So, someone that owns the DCR-C cannot just purchase/use this new mounting scheme?
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So, someone that owns the DCR-C cannot just purchase/use this new mounting scheme?
No - different size lens I believe. You could sell yours and buy the new one though.
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No - different size lens I believe. You could sell yours and buy the new one though.
Ha,ha,ha. ;D Of course I can sell my lens and buy a new one.:P Not gonna happen though.
The price of the DCR-C was the max I wanted to pay. Really glad I got in on that deal. 8)
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Will this work with a Sony VW285ES
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Will this work with a Sony VW285ES
No, but Panamorph has one made specifically for the Sony. DCR-S1. Looks about the same, but made to fit the Sony projector. Same price. If you would like pricing, give us a call. :)
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Additional info from Shawn Kelly of Panamorph, stolen from elsewhere -
" To remove the lens itself involves removing the two screws in front and pulling the J1/S1 out. This will leave a retaining ring in the lens opening that is part of the installation but doesn't interfere with usage even without the lens.
Throw distance is pretty much the entire range of the projector. At extreme vertical shift from the screen top the max image size will gradually decrease because the beam can get cut off but for the vast majority of installations it's full range as long as the projector is horizontally centered on the screen +/- a few inches.
These lenses are far easier to set up than the plate-based systems because they're designed for each specific projector model. However, it's worth repeating that they are optimized for 2.4:1 screens so older 2.35:1 screens will show most movies with a bit of left/right overspill.
Also FWIW, besides being optimized for 2.4:1 screens these lenses will have more limited compatibility with extreme vertical shift scenarios because they are actually recessed into the projector lens opening. We do not recommend use at low throw ratios where projector vertical placement is significantly (ie feet instead of inches) below or above the top of the screen. Horizontal centering should be within a few inches of the screen center as well. If more universal compatibility is desired that's what the full size Paladin DCR is for but within typical home theater installations the performance will be identical. "
How noticeable is the over spill on a 2:35:1 screen? Would the original DCR lens eliminate the over spill?
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How noticeable is the over spill on a 2:35:1 screen? Would the original DCR lens eliminate the over spill?
I've got a little overscan with my DCR lens. It's not really noticable at all, and I have on electric screen. If you have a fixed screen, the masking is quite a bit better.
You can barely see some overscan on the right edge of my screen in these shots. On darker shots you can't see it at all.
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I've got some questions regarding the DCR-J1 lens.
First, some background:
- I have a 2.40:1 133" 1.2 gain AT screen with ALR.
- Throw distance: 19.6' (projector around 9" behind the rear wall with a port glass in the wall).
- My JVC DLA-RS1000's projector lens is even with the top of the screen.
- Seating distance: 9'
- Room is light controlled with black ceiling, gray walls, and dark gray carpet.
Some questions:
1. I know, it's a subjective opinion, but I'm wondering how much will I benefit from the increased brightness provided by the DCR-J1 lens (given aforementioned background info above)?
2. How much will I benefit from the increased resolution (compared to zoom approach)?
From what I've read online, most people only talk about getting an anamorphic lens to increase brightness and seldomly also mention the benefits of increased resolution. From folks' (albeit subjective and dependent upon seating distance) opinion, is the increased resolution evident for 4K material? How about for 1080p material?
3. How much depth does the DCR-J1 add to the projector?
4. Can the projector zoom still be done with the DCR-J1 attached? Is there any reason to still use the projector zoom with the DCR-J1 attached?
5. How to deal with aspect ratios between 16:9 and 2.40:1?
6. Get a MadVR Envy Pro or a DCR-J1? Yeah, both would be nice, but probably not at the same time...
7. 16:9 resolution actually goes down with the DCR-J1 attached. Anyone bothered/affected by this lowered resolution?
EDIT: added question #7.
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I've got some questions regarding the DCR-J1 lens.
First, some background:
- I have a 2.40:1 133" 1.2 gain AT screen with ALR.
- Throw distance: 19.6' (projector around 9" behind the rear wall with a port glass in the wall).
- My JVC DLA-RS1000's projector lens is even with the top of the screen.
- Seating distance: 9'
- Room is light controlled with black ceiling, gray walls, and dark gray carpet.
Some questions:
1. I know, it's a subjective opinion, but I'm wondering how much will I benefit from the increased brightness provided by the DCR-J1 lens (given aforementioned background info above)?
2. How much will I benefit from the increased resolution (compared to zoom approach)?
From what I've read online, most people only talk about getting an anamorphic lens to increase brightness and seldomly also mention the benefits of increased resolution. From folks' (albeit subjective and dependent upon seating distance) opinion, is the increased resolution evident for 4K material? How about for 1080p material?
3. How much depth does the DCR-J1 add to the projector?
4. Can the projector zoom still be done with the DCR-J1 attached? Is there any reason to still use the projector zoom with the DCR-J1 attached?
5. How to deal with aspect ratios between 16:9 and 2.40:1?
6. Get a MadVR Envy Pro or a DCR-J1? Yeah, both would be nice, but probably not at the same time...
7. 16:9 resolution actually goes down with the DCR-J1 attached. Anyone bothered/affected by this lowered resolution?
EDIT: added question #7.
What AT screen is a true " 1.2 gain "? I do see an increase in pixel density with my DCR lens. That was more subtle though than the increase in brightness.
Dimensions and settings for aspect ratios are spelled out here pretty well - Panamorph 4K/8K Cinema Format Home Theater Projector Lenses (https://www.panamorph.com/)
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I doubt you would notice the loss of 16:9 resolution at all.
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What AT screen is a true " 1.2 gain "? I do see an increase in pixel density with my DCR lens. That was more subtle though than the increase in brightness.
Dimensions and settings for aspect ratios are spelled out here pretty well - Panamorph 4K/8K Cinema Format Home Theater Projector Lenses (https://www.panamorph.com/)
Screen Innovations Slate 1.2 ALR (at least the specs say it's got a 1.2 gain).
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I'll be mounting my JVC DLA-RS1000 this week (finally getting HT done after moving houses).
I'm considering mounting the projector so that its lens will be around 8" from the back of the rear wall (I'd like to have some space to account for front exhaust).
Just in case I decide to get the DCR-J1, I'd like to make sure that there is sufficient space between the projector and the rear wall and to be able to easily mount the lens without having to move the projector.
Some questions:
1. How much depth does the DCR-J1 add to the front of the JVC projector?
2. In addition to the depth of the lens assembly, I suppose I need a little more free space so that I can mount the lens onto the projector without having to move an already mounted projector. So, does anyone have any recommendations on how much space to leave between the projector lens and back of rear wall to easily mount the lens?
The projector is so heavy that I really don't want to move it once it's mounted!
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I'll be mounting my JVC DLA-RS1000 this week (finally getting HT done after moving houses).
I'm considering mounting the projector so that its lens will be around 8" from the back of the rear wall (I'd like to have some space to account for front exhaust).
Just in case I decide to get the DCR-J1, I'd like to make sure that there is sufficient space between the projector and the rear wall and to be able to easily mount the lens without having to move the projector.
Some questions:
1. How much depth does the DCR-J1 add to the front of the JVC projector?
2. In addition to the depth of the lens assembly, I suppose I need a little more free space so that I can mount the lens onto the projector without having to move an already mounted projector. So, does anyone have any recommendations on how much space to leave between the projector lens and back of rear wall to easily mount the lens?
The projector is so heavy that I really don't want to move it once it's mounted!
Is your projector in a hush box or somewhere that you can't just mount the lens to the front of the projector?
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The DCR-J1 just mounts to the front of the Projector, so the distance from the back isn't relevant. The 1.4x throw distance they recommend is from the front of the Projector's lens, not the DCR, so the added depth of the DCR-J1 doesn't need to be considered in this calculation.
I added the regular DCR to my NX7, which requires a plate to be attached to the projector's bottom area, and I was able to do this without removing the NX7 from the ceiling mount. The DCR-J1 is even simpler in this regard.
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My projector will be in a storage room behind the Home Theater. There is a hole between the two rooms. Here's a picture (projector not mounted yet):
(https://i.imgur.com/WO37qYZ.jpg)
I'll be putting a framed glass (with 6mm glass) from hometheatreglass.com to keep fan noise out of the HT room.
So, I was thinking of having 8" between the projector lens and the rear wall. Would 6" to 8" between the lens and the rear wall be sufficient room to be able to easily mount the lens without having to move the projector?
Edit: my screen width is 123" and the storage room is 19' from screen, so my throw is 1.9 or so. I shouldn't have to worry about barrel distortion at this distance. I'm more concerned about havingenough space to physically mount the lens into the projector since I really don't want to mess with moving the projector in the future, given how heavy it is.