AVS Discussions
Projection Screens => 2.35:1 Screens / lenses => Topic started by: David Vaughn on December 16, 2019, 09:11:37 PM
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So I've been using a 88" diagonal Stewart Firehawk G1 screen since 2005, but I'm contemplating getting a 2.35:1 screen (110" diagonal Firehawk). This would make the screen the same height, but have about 33% more screen area for 2.35:1 movies. I really don't want to get an anamorphic lens, so I would use the "zoom" method on my JVC RS2000 projector. I'd have to move it back about a foot from its current location for this to work (thankfully I have the room) and as screen sizes go, it's still not that big but I'm sure I'll take a brightness hit. Then again, I usually run with the iris clamped down for SDR and open it wide up for HDR (all on low power). Thoughts?
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Hey Dave,
If movie watching is a main reason for your theater, then I would strongly advocate for a scope screen.
In my situation, movies constitute the vast majority of what I watch in there, and with probably 80% or so of movies being in scope, that is definitely the way to go. I get frustrated when major movies are 16:9 or 1.85:1, because of the unused screen real estate!
I got the NX7 a little over a month ago, and the picture quality using zoom was awesome. I have a 160" diagonal 2.35:1 SI Screen, with nominal gain of 1.3, 18' throw distance, and had plenty of brightness available. For HDR, it beat my RS400 without trying.
I have since added the DCR Lens, but I was more than happy with the NX7 by itself.
If somebody mainly watches sports and non-scope content, a scope screen wouldn't be the best choice, but for movie watching, it can't be beat (if you have the width for it, which you apparently do).
If I were buying a screen now, I would see if I could find similarly priced 2.40:1 screens, since the vast majority of movies (after 1972, I think) are that ratio, rather than 2.35:1, but my 2.35:1 is working just fine.
My $.02 worth!
Don
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Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately, to get the same height screen I don't think I can go with 2.40:1...I'll have to do some measurements in the morning to see if it will fit in my room configuration. It's only a couple inches wider, but I have to fit it between my L/R speakers which are wall mounted.
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I wouldn't sweat the 2.40:1 though. As I said, I have 2.35:1, and when I was zooming, I'd just zoom out a tad more to fill the screen top and bottom, with slight spillover on the screen frame on the side. Wasn't visible. So I had one preset for 2.35:1 and another for 2.40:1. Not a big deal, and even when leaving it at 2.35:1, the slight letterbox bars top and bottom were quite narrow and easy to ignore.
As you can tell, I'm all in on scope screens for movies, with the Constant Image Height approach. If one determines the optimal vertical dimension for watching 16:9 content in their room, and if the space is available to keep that height, and go scope for greater horizontal immersion, it's a win-win situation.
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So I've been using a 88" diagonal Stewart Firehawk G1 screen since 2005, but I'm contemplating getting a 2.35:1 screen (110" diagonal Firehawk). This would make the screen the same height, but have about 33% more screen area for 2.35:1 movies. I really don't want to get an anamorphic lens, so I would use the "zoom" method on my JVC RS2000 projector. I'd have to move it back about a foot from its current location for this to work (thankfully I have the room) and as screen sizes go, it's still not that big but I'm sure I'll take a brightness hit. Then again, I usually run with the iris clamped down for SDR and open it wide up for HDR (all on low power). Thoughts?
Yes, I would highly recommend you do this. You would not need to change your viewing distance since height is unchanged. It would greatly improve your emersion of scope movies.
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So I've been using a 88" diagonal Stewart Firehawk G1 screen since 2005, but I'm contemplating getting a 2.35:1 screen (110" diagonal Firehawk). This would make the screen the same height, but have about 33% more screen area for 2.35:1 movies. I really don't want to get an anamorphic lens, so I would use the "zoom" method on my JVC RS2000 projector. I'd have to move it back about a foot from its current location for this to work (thankfully I have the room) and as screen sizes go, it's still not that big but I'm sure I'll take a brightness hit. Then again, I usually run with the iris clamped down for SDR and open it wide up for HDR (all on low power). Thoughts?
I'd say go for it. 110" isn't huge, but it is a decent size and a good size upgrade from your current 88" screen. Come over and see my 128" scope screen if you want.
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I pulled the trigger today. Ordered a Wallsreen Deluxe Stewart Firehawk G5 43x101 (110" diagonal) 2.35:1. I should have it in a couple of weeks. I will say this...the shipping cost is crazy high, but given the package size, I"m not surprised. It's 115" long and weighs 60 pounds.
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You will love the larger size of your scope movies and you gave up zero size in 16:9.
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You will love the larger size of your scope movies and you gave up zero size in 16:9.
Exactly. I would have loved to have actually gone a bit bigger, but unfortunately, it wouldn't have fit in the room. I can only move the projector back so far into the back of the room because of a load bearing header.
Thanks for everyone's advice. I'll post pictures when I get it up. (Wow...that just doesn't sound right, does it?) LOL
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I can't wait to see your NEW SCREEN, David. Sorry, I felt I should clarify my statement. ::)
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Exactly. I would have loved to have actually gone a bit bigger, but unfortunately, it wouldn't have fit in the room. I can only move the projector back so far into the back of the room because of a load bearing header.
Thanks for everyone's advice. I'll post pictures when I get it up. (Wow...that just doesn't sound right, does it?) LOL
Getting your wife to help you? :)
You could not shoot under the load bearing header?
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Getting your wife to help you? :)
You could not shoot under the load bearing header?
LOL
As for the header, no...it would place the projector in the adjoining kitchen and would be much too low.
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LOL
As for the header, no...it would place the projector in the adjoining kitchen and would be much too low.
You mean your wife would not like an oversize cabinet sticking out an extra 16" past the rest of the wall cabinets. :)
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It isn't that...it literally would never work. I'll snap a picture and show you what I mean. Also, I only have 108" between my speakers and the 2.35:1 screen is 107 5/8 inches---it's going to stick out from the wall about 3 inches due to some construction obstacles (window sills) and since my front wall is all black, I'm not worried about blocking the windows. See my 2nd picture...never mind the writing, this is a picture I sent to GIK Acoustics :)(https://i.imgur.com/EjnbkVR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lUhOu4w.jpg)
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I was kidding. :)
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I was kidding. :)
LOL...hard to tell from the typed word. Now that you say that I can totally see it when reading it again :)
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I got the screen hung tonight. Took a bit of engineering work since I had to move it 2.75 inches away from the wall so it could fit in front of my windows that aren't in use. I'll post some pictures tomorrow. I will say this...it's way freaking bigger than my old screen and will take a little getting used to.
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You'll get used to the new size quicker than you think I bet.
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Before:
(https://i.imgur.com/1Lwke34.jpg)
Screen Down:
(https://i.imgur.com/SlmE3k2.jpg)
I forgot to take a picture with the construction. I had to do a build out of 2.75" from the wall since the screen has to move in front of the black treatments on the right and left of the yellow area.
After:
(https://i.imgur.com/m0G6bsP.jpg)
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Greetings,
Congrats Dave! The new setup looks great. Looking forward to checking it out next visit. :)
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Before:
(https://i.imgur.com/1Lwke34.jpg)
Screen Down:
(https://i.imgur.com/SlmE3k2.jpg)
I forgot to take a picture with the construction. I had to do a build out of 2.75" from the wall since the screen has to move in front of the black treatments on the right and left of the yellow area.
After:
(https://i.imgur.com/m0G6bsP.jpg)
You will be surprised at how quickly you get used to the larger size, but I bet it takes a long time to wipe the smile off your face, every time you fire up a scope movie. :)
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You will be surprised at how quickly you get used to the larger size, but I bet it takes a long time to wipe the smile off your face, every time you fire up a scope movie. :)
Mike,
I watched "13 Hours" on UHD and "Minority Report" on Blu-ray yesterday. Totally blown away by both films visual impact on the much larger screen. And you're right...big smile on my face. :D
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Great upgrade! When I was contemplating which AR screen to go with, I remember reading that something like 75% of all Hollywood movies are shot in an anamorphic aspect ratio, so it only made sense to go with a scope screen. Plus, scope content was created specifically to be "larger" than the flat AR other Hollywood films use. So using a scope screen more accurately represents how the film makers want us to experience their work. TVs unfortunately do it backwards and make it so scope content is smaller.
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I've been brainstorming ideas for side masking. One idea I've been kicking around is to get mini barn door rollers (3 ft) and place them on the right and left side above my screen. For the "doors," I'd wrap velvet around some panels (either 1/2 wood or possibly foam core) and then "roll" them into place depending on the aspect ratio of the content. What do you guys think of this idea? Any pitfalls you can think of?
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Do you have room for them on either side ? If so that is a clever idea.
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Do you have room for them on either side ? If so that is a clever idea.
Yes, I have the room. I'd have to do a slight build out that would go above the screen, and then out front of the screen, but I think it's possible. One concern is making the panels the right weight so they would be durable enough for long term use. I have a friend who is extremely handy and I'm going to ask him to come over and give it a look and get his thoughts. I really wish there was a way to make them motorized :)
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I've been brainstorming ideas for side masking. One idea I've been kicking around is to get mini barn door rollers (3 ft) and place them on the right and left side above my screen. For the "doors," I'd wrap velvet around some panels (either 1/2 wood or possibly foam core) and then "roll" them into place depending on the aspect ratio of the content. What do you guys think of this idea? Any pitfalls you can think of?
Agree - that is a clever idea!
I worked with my wife to make black velvet curtains, attached to a black curtain road above the screen. I had to insert a wooden dowel along the inside edges to give a straight line when they're drawn in. Gets the job done easily and cheaply.
But I do like your idea better, although in my case, due to a cathedral ceiling at the front wall, I'm not sure I'd have space for it, even if I had thought of it at the time.
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Agree - that is a clever idea!
I worked with my wife to make black velvet curtains, attached to a black curtain road above the screen. I had to insert a wooden dowel along the inside edges to give a straight line when they're drawn in. Gets the job done easily and cheaply.
But I do like your idea better, although in my case, due to a cathedral ceiling at the front wall, I'm not sure I'd have space for it, even if I had thought of it at the time.
I did a closer inspection last night and I don't think it will work without completely redoing my front wall (a project I really don't feel like tackling right now). I may do some temporary manual masks and decide to tackle the bigger project in the future.
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I did a closer inspection last night and I don't think it will work without completely redoing my front wall (a project I really don't feel like tackling right now). I may do some temporary manual masks and decide to tackle the bigger project in the future.
Weighted drop down black velvet fabric. You would only have two sizes, scope and 16:9 size.
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Here are the screen size difference between old and new:
(https://i.imgur.com/XvSkasm.png)
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It's a pretty stark difference live. And yes, I got used to it pretty fast!
As for the masking, I'm not feeling like I "need" it at this point as much as I did for scope films on my old screen. Since it's off to the sides, when the lights are out it barely shows up (I think using the Firehawk screen helps versus a white screen). I still may do something, but I don't know what it will be yet.
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It's a pretty stark difference live. And yes, I got used to it pretty fast!
As for the masking, I'm not feeling like I "need" it at this point as much as I did for scope films on my old screen. Since it's off to the sides, when the lights are out it barely shows up (I think using the Firehawk screen helps versus a white screen). I still may do something, but I don't know what it will be yet.
Over the years I have bought my screens from SeymourAV and always purchase side masks from them. They may be able to provide those for you (and they have both AT and non-AT) for not a ton of money. I don't find having manual side masks to be too much of an issue as it only takes about 10 seconds to walk over and remove (or put back on) the side masks. The automated ones are very cool, but I'd rather put that money towards other parts of my system. That is, of course, a personal choice. Also, building your own automated side masks can be a very cool project, but typically requires planning and building the side masks into the frame (for the least obtrusive side masks). The other site has some cool build threads in its DYI Screen page.
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Over the years I have bought my screens from SeymourAV and always purchase side masks from them. They may be able to provide those for you (and they have both AT and non-AT) for not a ton of money. I don't find having manual side masks to be too much of an issue as it only takes about 10 seconds to walk over and remove (or put back on) the side masks. The automated ones are very cool, but I'd rather put that money towards other parts of my system. That is, of course, a personal choice. Also, building your own automated side masks can be a very cool project, but typically requires planning and building the side masks into the frame (for the least obtrusive side masks). The other site has some cool build threads in its DYI Screen page.
We are Seymour AV dealers. Seymour AV can't make masks to fit a Stewart screen. When Seymour builds a manual masking screen, Seymour installs magnets in the frame and in the masking panels.
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We are Seymour AV dealers. Seymour AV can't make masks to fit a Stewart screen. When Seymour builds a manual masking screen, Seymour installs magnets in the frame and in the masking panels.
If I do build something, I have the ability to mount some magnets above and below the screen to hold the masking. I was thinking of using some foam board and just wrapping in black velvet (which is what my front wall is anyway).
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If I do build something, I have the ability to mount some magnets above and below the screen to hold the masking. I was thinking of using some foam board and just wrapping in black velvet (which is what my front wall is anyway).
Seems easy enough to use Gatorboard foam board, velvet and super magnets. I've seen the magnets at Home Depot not that long ago.
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If I do build something, I have the ability to mount some magnets above and below the screen to hold the masking. I was thinking of using some foam board and just wrapping in black velvet (which is what my front wall is anyway).
If you want nice crisp edges on the panels, buy some plastic J-mold.
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I know I'm resurrecting a thread several months old but I thought I would check to see if you added any side masking panels yet and if so what you used? The magnetic idea sounded interesting.
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I know I'm resurrecting a thread several months old but I thought I would check to see if you added any side masking panels yet and if so what you used? The magnetic idea sounded interesting.
Mike got a TRIM screen with electronic masking.
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I know I'm resurrecting a thread several months old but I thought I would check to see if you added any side masking panels yet and if so what you used? The magnetic idea sounded interesting.
I did...I'll post some pictures of what I did later today.
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OK...here's what I did. In lieu of magnets, I used some brackets that rest on top of the screen and wrapped some rigid foam (the stuff that yard signs are made of) as the material. You can buy a 4x8 sheet at Home Depot for under $25.00. The brackets were a few bucks and I ended up using mini screw/nuts to affix them to the foam. I initially tried just using Gorilla Tape, but they began to sag and using two screws per bracket made a huge difference. Here are some pictures. As you can see, I used Gorilla tape all around the outside edges to give some added protection from them possibly being dropped. I then wrapped them in JoAnn's velvet (same I used on my front wall) and the results are pretty good IMO for a project that cost under $50 to complete. Let me know if you have any questions.
(https://i.imgur.com/7dX66j3.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/LHkGJJQ.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/3QAyonG.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/LtzdSQ4.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/yj4WX7u.jpg)
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OK...here's what I did. In lieu of magnets, I used some brackets that rest on top of the screen and wrapped some rigid foam (the stuff that yard signs are made of) as the material. You can buy a 4x8 sheet at Home Depot for under $25.00. The brackets were a few bucks and I ended up using mini screw/nuts to affix them to the foam. I initially tried just using Gorilla Tape, but they began to sag and using two screws per bracket made a huge difference. Here are some pictures. As you can see, I used Gorilla tape all around the outside edges to give some added protection from them possibly being dropped. I then wrapped them in JoAnn's velvet (same I used on my front wall) and the results are pretty good IMO for a project that cost under $50 to complete. Let me know if you have any questions.
(https://i.imgur.com/7dX66j3.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/LHkGJJQ.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/3QAyonG.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/LtzdSQ4.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/yj4WX7u.jpg)
How do they actually go on the screen? Between your screen frame and the fabric top panel? Friction fit?
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That actually just sit on top of the screen frame. My frame juts out from the wall by about 3 inches (in front of the windowsills, which are hidden with velvet now). It was the only way I could get it to fit between two windows (which are covered by fabric panels). Here's my old screen before adding the velvet to the wall. (https://i.imgur.com/sTJzu2f.jpg)
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Simple and effective. It just hangs on the top of the screen. That couldn't be easier ! I like it.
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still peeved i forgot to add magnets when i rebuilt my screen
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Simple and effective. It just hangs on the top of the screen. That couldn't be easier ! I like it.
Thanks Craig. Also, when I watch a scope screen, i just hang the panels outside the screen on top of the valances (which are covered in a black fabric panel. They blend right in and you cant see them unless you're about a foot away from them.
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David V.,
May I trouble you to know the name or brand of the foam board you bought at HD?
I looked around my local HD but only found Rigid Insulation board which would be a bit of a bear to cut and get a straight line.
You mention “yard signs” but that just sent the HD guy into a Catatonic state when I asked. 🙃
Btw, I have a 16:9 screen but will make a set of these for when I watch old Hitchcock movies which are mostly 1.33:1.
Thank you.
Hugo
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David V.,
May I trouble you to know the name or brand of the foam board you bought at HD?
I looked around my local HD but only found Rigid Insulation board which would be a bit of a bear to cut and get a straight line.
You mention “yard signs” but that just sent the HD guy into a Catatonic state when I asked. 🙃
Btw, I have a 16:9 screen but will make a set of these for when I watch old Hitchcock movies which are mostly 1.33:1.
Thank you.
Hugo
Hugo,
Here's what I bought: https://www.homedepot.com/p/72-in-x-36-in-x-5-32-in-Twinwall-Plastic-Sheet-COR-3672/202771364
In my local store, it's at the back of the store at the end of the lumber department. Generally, the stores are set up somewhat the same.
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That stuff looks like it would work well.
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would love to use that...but it would cover my L and R speakers....:/
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would love to use that...but it would cover my L and R speakers....:/
You would need AT masking panels of some sort.
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I have a scope screen, and when I set it up, I installed a pair of black velvet curtains, each on its own curtain rod. I could draw them in when watching narrower aspect ratio content, to effectively mask the black pillar bars on the sides, of whatever width they were. It worked well.
But then, being a lazy-a$$, getting up to move the curtains was too much to ask (!), so I started thinking about motorizing, and potentially automating, this process.
I did some googling, and came across Automatic Curtains (http://automaticcurtain.com/), which seemed to offer exactly what I was looking for. I dealt with Tony Lau there, and he was extremely helpful in answering my questions, providing suggestions, etc. In order to get close to the wall where the screen was mounted, I had to disconnect and move pretty much everything that was in the front of my theater, but it all worked out.
Here's a link to a YouTube video I made showing in action:
https://youtu.be/3XoMrXrTf4Y (https://youtu.be/3XoMrXrTf4Y)
All in all, I'm pretty happy with the result. I may tweak things slightly for a little smoother, more even movement, but it gets the job done quite well.
I use Control4 in my home, and I'm planning on integrating this into this system. And the next step I hope to accomplish, would be to have it work with my MadVR Envy, which detects aspect ratio automatically. It would be cool to have the curtain adjusted to the right position automatically, without me having to do anything more than turn the theater on.
Given some of the posts here, I thought this might be of interest to others. And the expense was fairly minimal.
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I have a scope screen, and when I set it up, I installed a pair of black velvet curtains, each on its own curtain rod. I could draw them in when watching narrower aspect ratio content, to effectively mask the black pillar bars on the sides, of whatever width they were. It worked well.
But then, being a lazy-a$$, getting up to move the curtains was too much to ask (!), so I started thinking about motorizing, and potentially automating, this process.
I did some googling, and came across Automatic Curtains (http://automaticcurtain.com/), which seemed to offer exactly what I was looking for. I dealt with Tony Lau there, and he was extremely helpful in answering my questions, providing suggestions, etc. In order to get close to the wall where the screen was mounted, I had to disconnect and move pretty much everything that was in the front of my theater, but it all worked out.
Here's a link to a YouTube video I made showing in action:
https://youtu.be/3XoMrXrTf4Y (https://youtu.be/3XoMrXrTf4Y)
All in all, I'm pretty happy with the result. I may tweak things slightly for a little smoother, more even movement, but it gets the job done quite well.
I use Control4 in my home, and I'm planning on integrating this into this system. And the next step I hope to accomplish, would be to have it work with my MadVR Envy, which detects aspect ratio automatically. It would be cool to have the curtain adjusted to the right position automatically, without me having to do anything more than turn the theater on.
Given some of the posts here, I thought this might be of interest to others. And the expense was fairly minimal.
I love it. If you don't mind me asking...how much were they?
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I love it. If you don't mind me asking...how much were they?
Mine is 190" long, and all in, including brackets to mount it, and an RJ12 socket for wired control, was $575 including shipping. That doesn't include the curtains, obviously. I had to buy some hardware to attach the curtains to the eyelet curtain runners in the track, but that was just a few dollars.
Considering that the Stewart VistaScope screen with the built-in masking, is about $20k, I was more than pleased with this pricing.
I can't say enough about Tony - I had many questions, and he always had the answers.
I can address some of the particulars involved in installing and getting it set up if you want to pursue this.
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Mine is 190" long, and all in, including brackets to mount it, and an RJ12 socket for wired control, was $575 including shipping. That doesn't include the curtains, obviously. I had to buy some hardware to attach the curtains to the eyelet curtain runners in the track, but that was just a few dollars.
Considering that the Stewart VistaScope screen with the built-in masking, is about $20k, I was more than pleased with this pricing.
I can't say enough about Tony - I had many questions, and he always had the answers.
I can address some of the particulars involved in installing and getting it set up if you want to pursue this.
Since my screen is away from the wall by about 5 inches, I'd have to do some engineering work to mount it (the ceiling isn't flat above the screen, it's actually at about a 30 degree angle upwards). I love the idea of it being automatic and like you said, $575 isn't much for what it does compared to the VistaScope (I had priced those a while back and when the quote was sent to me I almost had a heart attack!). How to you stop it in the required spot? It would be nice to have it to where there where multiple stops such as 2.2:1 movies, 2.0:1 movies, and 1.33:1 shows (older TV titles). I'm not sure how you'd do that. Do you just have it set up for 16x9 and it stops at the point automatically?
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Since my screen is away from the wall by about 5 inches, I'd have to do some engineering work to mount it (the ceiling isn't flat above the screen, it's actually at about a 30 degree angle upwards). I love the idea of it being automatic and like you said, $575 isn't much for what it does compared to the VistaScope (I had priced those a while back and when the quote was sent to me I almost had a heart attack!). How to you stop it in the required spot? It would be nice to have it to where there where multiple stops such as 2.2:1 movies, 2.0:1 movies, and 1.33:1 shows (older TV titles). I'm not sure how you'd do that. Do you just have it set up for 16x9 and it stops at the point automatically?
I think this can still work. Mine is attached using wall brackets. They have them 4" long and 7" long, and I'm using the shorter ones. The 7" ones might be enough on their own for your situation. In my situation, most brackets were attached to a piece on the wall that was about 1.5" out from the wall. For the 2 on the ends, which needed to be attached to the wall itself, I used a 1.5" piece of wood, drilled holes through those, placed these between the bracket and wall, and screwed them into the studs, so they lined up correctly with the others. You could use a similar approach to get the brackets out a little further if you need to.
As for the stopping points: I have what they call a "stopper" in the track where the 16:9 position would be. The motor 'learns' where this is, and gently stops at that position. So that works perfectly.
I haven't fully worked out yet if/how I can automate the intermediate positions. I first need to pick up another device that can learn the remote's RF commands, and then get the software Driver to connect this device to my Control4 system. Once I have it integrated into Control4, I can determine by trial and error how long the motor has to be engaged to get to position "x" and then program that into Control4. Whether or not this will be sufficiently precise isn't clear, but that will be my next project.
Worst case scenario, though, I can use the supplied RF remote, and just get it into whatever position I need.
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I think this can still work. Mine is attached using wall brackets. They have them 4" long and 7" long, and I'm using the shorter ones. The 7" ones might be enough on their own for your situation. In my situation, most brackets were attached to a piece on the wall that was about 1.5" out from the wall. For the 2 on the ends, which needed to be attached to the wall itself, I used a 1.5" piece of wood, drilled holes through those, placed these between the bracket and wall, and screwed them into the studs, so they lined up correctly with the others. You could use a similar approach to get the brackets out a little further if you need to.
As for the stopping points: I have what they call a "stopper" in the track where the 16:9 position would be. The motor 'learns' where this is, and gently stops at that position. So that works perfectly.
I haven't fully worked out yet if/how I can automate the intermediate positions. I first need to pick up another device that can learn the remote's RF commands, and then get the software Driver to connect this device to my Control4 system. Once I have it integrated into Control4, I can determine by trial and error how long the motor has to be engaged to get to position "x" and then program that into Control4. Whether or not this will be sufficiently precise isn't clear, but that will be my next project.
Worst case scenario, though, I can use the supplied RF remote, and just get it into whatever position I need.
Great info. Thanks. Which track did you end up going with? There are multiples on the site. You've piqued my interest...I may have a new winter project on my hands :)
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Great info. Thanks. Which track did you end up going with? There are multiples on the site. You've piqued my interest...I may have a new winter project on my hands :)
It's a single track, 920 series. He referred to it as "Automatic Curtain System S168 Motor w/ Power Adapter".
I agree - the website is a bit confusing, with some of the items and information referring to previous products.
The best thing to do is contact Tony directly: sales@automaticcurtain.com
I found him extremely patient and helpful with all my questions, and all of his recommendations were spot on. If you do, tell him I sent you.
Trust me - I have no business connection to them. He was just so helpful to me that I told him early on that I thought others might have interest in this application for his products, and would get the word out, so to speak.
I think their primary customer is looking for conventional curtains, and this particular application is a 'niche' use for their products.
I'll pm you as well with my phone number in case you want to discuss at any time.
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Hugo,
Here's what I bought: https://www.homedepot.com/p/72-in-x-36-in-x-5-32-in-Twinwall-Plastic-Sheet-COR-3672/202771364
In my local store, it's at the back of the store at the end of the lumber department. Generally, the stores are set up somewhat the same.
David,
Thank you very much for sharing the info. Looks like I have a new weekend project.
best regards,
Hugo
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David,
Thank you very much for sharing the info. Looks like I have a new weekend project.
best regards,
Hugo
Awesome. Let me know how it goes. I highly recommend using small screws and bolts to attach the wide L brackets. The tape alone gave way faster than I thought it would.
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It's a single track, 920 series. He referred to it as "Automatic Curtain System S168 Motor w/ Power Adapter".
I agree - the website is a bit confusing, with some of the items and information referring to previous products.
The best thing to do is contact Tony directly: sales@automaticcurtain.com
I found him extremely patient and helpful with all my questions, and all of his recommendations were spot on. If you do, tell him I sent you.
Trust me - I have no business connection to them. He was just so helpful to me that I told him early on that I thought others might have interest in this application for his products, and would get the word out, so to speak.
I think their primary customer is looking for conventional curtains, and this particular application is a 'niche' use for their products.
I'll pm you as well with my phone number in case you want to discuss at any time.
Thanks for this Don, I am switching over to a scope screen and this looks like a great masking system.
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Thanks for this Don, I am switching over to a scope screen and this looks like a great masking system.
Great! It really has worked out well.
Since my post, I have integrated into my Control4 System, and have my theater configured using the madVR Envy such that after a movie starts, it automatically moves the curtain to the proper position based on the Aspect Ratio provided by the Envy, and communicated to Control4. It's really pretty slick.
Feel free to PM me to explore any details on this, limitations, etc. And I saw elsewhere that you're considering adding a Lumagen to your theater, which is a great product. I think it makes sense to look at all available options in this regard, with the madVR Envy worth a look. I was making the same decision about a year ago, and decided to go with the Envy, and am still very pleased with the choice. This says nothing negative about Lumagen, since both are great products. And it's always good to have choices.
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That is very cool that with Envy and control4 you can control the masking automatically. I wonder if the Lumagen can do the same, most likely it can.
I have the NZ8 on order and seriously considering adding a Lumagen/envy.
Might just try the projector out without for awhile then add shortly after if I feel it is warranted.
I’m sure it will be the icing on the cake.
Thanks again Don.