AVS Discussions
Projectors => Premium Projectors => Topic started by: Dylan Seeger on February 07, 2019, 09:22:13 PM
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(https://i.imgur.com/oXow33k.png)JVC's new DLA-RS2000 is a high quality native 4K home theater projector that features new, 0.69 inch D-ILA devices coupled with a 17-element, 15-group all glass 65mm lens. It offers high contrast, high brightness, and a host of color reproduction features that ensure dynamic and realistic images. Even those demanding movie theater quality reproduction will be impressed with the images produced by the DLA-RS2000.1,900 Lumens with High Power Lamp (PK-L2618U)
- 80,000:1 Native (800,000:1 Dynamic) Contrast Ratio for deep blacks
- New 0.69 inch native 4K D-ILA Devices (x3)
- 17-element, 15-group all-glass 65mm diameter high quality lens
- Two 18Gbps HDMI/HDCP 2.2 Compatible Inputs
- ISF (Imaging Science Foundation) Licensed
- HDR10 Compatibility with Auto Tone Mapping
- Wide Color Gamut (Over 100% DCI P3)
- Improved Clear Motion Drive with Motion Enhance
- Improved Multiple Pixel Control (MPC) — MPC works with 4K60P (4:4:4) signals
- Low Latency Mode improves picture, speeds operation, and reduces gaming/PC frame delays
- New Installation Mode simplies setup and memorizes up to 10 customizable picture preferences
- Control: Control4 SDDP / LAN / RS-232C / IR / 12V Screen Trigger Output / 3D Sync Output
- 3 Year Advanced Replacement Warranty
- Stunning Native 4K Resolution
- The JVC DLA-RS2000 home theater projector features native 4K resolution that delivers images that truly rival reality. Images are so detailed, and so smooth you won't believe your eyes.
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JVC DLA-RS1000/N5 & RS2000/NX7 Owners Thread - HDR compatibility w/Auto Tone Mapping
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- The DLA-RS2000 is compatible with HDR 10 for content such as UHD Blu-ray and HLG (Hybrid Log-Gamma) adopted in broadcasting. It is also equipped with a new feature, "Auto Tone Mapping" that automatically adjusts settings based on the mastering information included in HDR content. This feature enables different HDR images to be viewed optimally for specific content.(https://i.imgur.com/5U5pi34.png)
JVC DLA-RS1000/N5 & RS2000/NX7 Owners Thread
New 0.69 Native 4K D-ILA Devices (x3)
(https://i.imgur.com/HXgBlgY.png)JVC's new 0.69 inch native 4K D-ILA device delivers the sharpest home theater image available. The 4096 x 2160 device with 3.8µm pixel pitch exceeds 4 times HD resolution— 8.8 million pixels. With original vertical orientation technology and a planarization technique that reduces light scattering and diffraction, the device achieves a very high native contrast ratio resulting in smooth, detailed images without visible pixels even on very large screens.
An Incredible Lens Delivers 4K(https://i.imgur.com/43KxwaV.jpg)
- The DLA-RS2000 is equipped with a 65 mm diameter lens which adopts the all-glass lens of 15 groups of 17 glasses, realizing a high-resolution image with focus up to the periphery of the screen.
- A Perfect Combination for Spectacular ContrastThe new native 4K D-ILA device and optical engine with wire grid polarizers achieve a native contrast ratio greater than 80,000:1. In combination with JVC's "Intelligent Lens Aperture" which analyzes the input image and automatically controls the black level, the DLA-RS2000 is able to deliver a spectacular dynamic contrast of 800,000:1 for an immersive viewing experience.
Superior Color Performance and ContrastThe DLA-RS2000 incorporates many functions that enhance the color, brightness and contrast performance.(https://i.imgur.com/G5QLwBB.png)
JVC DLA-RS1000/N5 & RS2000/NX7 Owners Thread
4K Anamorphic ScalingThis projector is compatible with commercially available anamorphic lenses and ultra-wide format screens for an immersive movie theater experience. It also features a new scaling mode that is optimized for the full native 4096 x 2160 (17 x 9) resolution of the D-ILA device.
Installation ModeThe DLA-RS2000 is equipped with new "Installation Mode" that saves and recalls up to 10 different installation modes for different aspect ratios, lens presets, convergence and screen masking positions.
(https://i.imgur.com/RgugZzB.jpg)
JVC DLA-RS1000/N5 & RS2000/NX7 Owners Thread
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A companion thread designed to discuss calibration and some of the more technical aspects of these projectors can be found here:
https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=1850.0
Manni is very knowledgeable in these matters and I highly suggest checking his thread out for tips and tricks to get the most from your new native 4K JVC projector.
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Reviews:
https://hometheaterreview.com/jvc-dla-rs2000-projector-reviewed/
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Just as few further thoughts before bed. I got the chance to play with my RS2000 in my dedicated theater when I got home from work. My suspicions turned out to be true. There is next to no blooming or streaking on my particular unit. This seems to be at odds with other reports from other N7s and RS3000's that I've seen photographed. This is something I wasn't expecting to see. My unit has a January 2019 manufacture date so it might be possible that some type of product line change occurred to help fix this particular issue. As far as I'm concerned, with my unit at least, JVC is now on par or possibly a bit better than Sony with lens streaking and internal reflections. Whatever JVC did, it seems to help tremendously.
With all of this said, no, the RS2000 does not have the same black level as the previous 5xx mid-tier units that the RS2000 replaces. I didn't get the chance to measure contrast but I'd have to say, iris wide open, it's probably only around 18000-20000:1. That's just my guess. I will measure tomorrow to get an exact number. I'm even going to attempt an ANSI contrast measurement. I'm still disappointed with the dynamic iris software. It's too aggressive with too many gamma shift and clipped white artifacts. I really, really hope JVC can give us back the software implementation that they used with the eshift models. It is clearly better than this implementation. It doesn't pump, which is good, but there are other distracting artifacts unfortunately. If they can fix this, I will be extremely happy with my purchase. The image quality is easily better than the eshift models. It's plain as day. Especially when I clamp down the iris a bit to get more native contrast.
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It is interesting how distinct opinions on the DI range from on this new family; there are opinions that are wide and varied and at pretty much 180 degrees to each other.. From works brilliantly, not seeing any pumping at all, much better than previous gen, to posts like yours where the behaviour is observed as being much worse and more aggressive.
I need to go through the posts again here and at the other place, but I wonder if there is any correlation that can be observed either with respect to firmware or build dates or RS3000 vs RS2000 (new lens, maybe new iris mech). Also I note there are a few folk questioning the behaviour of the DI in last year's X7900; perhaps those who are rating the new series as better have as their frame of reference what are actually mis-behaving units from last year?
I'm particularly interested in this aspect as I find the current DI unacceptable though not obviously defective in my X7900.
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Everyone seems to see how a dynamic iris works differently. I'm usually pretty sensitive to them when they're working. I hope others complain and JVC releases a further firmware to address some of the more glaring aspects of this particular implementation. I never had the chance to see an eshift 5 JVC so I can't comment on how that performed. But I do know the eshift 3 and 4 models had a much better implementation. I saw no large gamma shifts and essentially no clipped whites.
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Everyone seems to see how a dynamic iris works differently. I'm usually pretty sensitive to them when they're working. I hope others complain and JVC releases a further firmware to address some of the more glaring aspects of this particular implementation. I never had the chance to see an eshift 5 JVC so I can't comment on how that performed. But I do know the eshift 3 and 4 models had a much better implementation. I saw no large gamma shifts and essentially no clipped whites.
Were you watching SDR or HDR? I've been using the DI in SDR with the iris closed to -10 or less for years, lastly on my rs500, but in HDR, with the manual iris above -6, there are *lots* of gamma artifacts, up to the point that I've stopped using it in HDR most of the time.
I'm not talking about pumping but about awful gamma artifacts, at least on the rs500.
I'll look at this closely and I'll report, I got a call from UPS today, my rs2000 is in the UK, delivery expected Monday or Tuesday.
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I just want to Thank you guys so much for doing this and the calibration thread and the effort you put in! I am hopeful that we can get some sanity here verses that other place that has so many non-owners going off on crap they don't even know. I am hopeful this will be a true owners thread with tips, tricks and issues resolved.
My RS2000 is delivered Tuesday and I have 8-10 people from the other forum coming over on the 24th for testing and viewing.
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Were you watching SDR or HDR? I've been using the DI in SDR with the iris closed to -10 or less for years, lastly on my rs500, but in HDR, with the manual iris above -6, there are *lots* of gamma artifacts, up to the point that I've stopped using it in HDR most of the time.
I'm not talking about pumping but about awful gamma artifacts, at least on the rs500.
I'll look at this closely and I'll report, I got a call from UPS today, my rs2000 is in the UK, delivery expected Monday or Tuesday.
I haven't even bothered using the HDR modes on the eshifters. Without a ton of help it never looked that great. So I've been converting to SDR with madVR. No obvious issues with the DI.
Quick and dirty native contrast measurement. I was off by a bit eyeballing it. In high lamp, iris wide open but closer to the telephoto end of the zoom range (where I normally place my projector) I measured 26,200:1 native contrast. When I get time later tonight I will do max/minimum zoom contrast and dynamic contrast.
Edit: Note that this is out of the box contrast performance.
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Everyone seems to see how a dynamic iris works differently. I'm usually pretty sensitive to them when they're working. I hope others complain and JVC releases a further firmware to address some of the more glaring aspects of this particular implementation. I never had the chance to see an eshift 5 JVC so I can't comment on how that performed. But I do know the eshift 3 and 4 models had a much better implementation. I saw no large gamma shifts and essentially no clipped whites.
Are you using auto 1 or auto 2 ?
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Are you using auto 1 or auto 2 ?
I tried both modes. Both of them exhibited similar issues.
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I haven't even bothered using the HDR modes on the eshifters. Without a ton of help it never looked that great. So I've been converting to SDR with madVR. No obvious issues with the DI.
I only mentioned SDR or HDR because of the iris setting that is likely to be different. The way you tonemap doesn't really matter.
Whether you tonemap with custom curves or using MadVR pixel shader, it's the iris setting that causes the gamma artifacts, at least on the rs500.
Iris = 0 worst
Iris = -6 worse
Iris = -10 decent
Iris = -15 no issue
So you're more likely to see issues in HDR (tonemapped by MadVR or custom curves) with the iris at 0 than in SDR with the iris at -10 or less, at least on the older models. and I mean HDR or SDR content, not the way you tonemap.
Of course auto1 is more agressive than auto2, so I'm assuming auto 2 (the above is using auto 2).
Hence my question again: what is you manual iris setting during these DI evaluations?
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I only mentioned SDR or HDR because of the iris setting that is likely to be different. The way you tonemap doesn't really matter.
Whether you tonemap with custom curves or using MadVR pixel shader, it's the iris setting that causes the gamma artifacts, at least on the rs500.
Iris = 0 worst
Iris = -6 worse
Iris = -10 decent
Iris = -15 no issue
So you're more likely to see issues in HDR (tonemapped by MadVR or custom curves) with the iris at 0 than in SDR with the iris at -10 or less, at least on the older models. and I mean HDR or SDR content, not the way you tonemap.
Of course auto1 is more agressive than auto2, so I'm assuming auto 2 (the above is using auto 2).
Hence my question again: what is you manual iris setting during these DI evaluations?
Sorry, I thought you were implying that enabling HDR mode altered the amount of DI artifacts you were seeing. This makes sense to me due to the difference between EOTF, gamma and bit depth of the content. The image characteristics between SDR and HDR content are different therefore the DI is going to react differently to it.
To answer your question, I normally watch with the iris roughly half closed. On my RS2000, its currently at -7.
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Thanks and no problem. :)
So when you have a chance please could you try to close the iris further, and let us know if the gamma artifacts get better? And if they get worse if you open the iris fully?
Because this is how it works on the older models, and you need close to -10 to make the DI mostly invisible (gamma artifacts-wise), at least with my rs500.
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I spent the last two hours watching content with the DI off and contrast performance is still very impressive. I was having too much fun just watching the image this projector produces that I forgot to take more measurements haha. I will do my best to take more measurements later. I'm hoping we see some more pre-orders delivered today so others can corroborate my findings. Those who bought one are in for a treat. I know the term "looking through a window" gets thrown around a lot, but my RS2000 takes things one step closer. The ever-so-slightly more digital look that I used to see on the eshifters vs Sony SXRD is now gone. It really reminds me a lot of what I'm used to seeing from Sony 4K SXRD in this regard. Native motion (no CMD) looks a bit better to my eyes as well.
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I spent the last two hours watching content with the DI off and contrast performance is still very impressive. I was having too much fun just watching the image this projector produces that I forgot to take more measurements haha. I will do my best to take more measurements later. I'm hoping we see some more pre-orders delivered today so others can corroborate my findings. Those who bought one are in for a treat. I know the term "looking through a window" gets thrown around a lot, but my RS2000 takes things one step closer. The ever-so-slightly more digital look that I used to see on the eshifters vs Sony SXRD is now gone. It really reminds me a lot of what I'm used to seeing from Sony 4K SXRD in this regard. Native motion (no CMD) looks a bit better to my eyes as well.
Yeah, the image I saw on the 3000 at CEDIA reminded me of my RS4500. Which I described as looking out an opening, no glass. :)
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Here are some out of the box contrast measurements for my RS2000:
High Lamp, minimum zoom, iris fully open: 29,400, iris @ - 7: 39,563:1, iris @ -15; 62,100:1
High Lamp, max zoom, iris fully open: 23,450:1, iris @-7: 38,550:1, iris @-15: 50,800:1
Maximum dynamic contrast: 176,850:1, this indicates a 6x contrast multiplier.
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In the most accurate out of the box mode I'm getting:
1635 lumens iris open maximum zoom
1209 lumens iris open minimum zoom
Lumens drop 25% when putting the projector into low lamp mode. I'm also only seeing a 10% drop in lumens with the P3 filter in place. This is odd to me since I read @ARROW-AV measured 25% if I remember correctly. I'm going to check to be sure everything is set correctly just to double check these findings. Maybe a change the latest January production models got?
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@ Dylan Seeger PM Sent.. ;)
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Just a 10% drop with the filter would be excellent. I measure a 18% drop on my RS3000 (December build) - same as Ekki recorded - which is closer to Nigel's measurement than the 7% drop I saw on my RS600.
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Hi Dylan, thanks for the measurements. Which meter are you using to measure contrast, and is this at the screen or at the lens? Can you confirm that this is using high bright uncalibrated, or is it an uncalibrated D65 preset? 10% drop for the filter would be good news, though your lumens numbers could be a bit low depending on which mode you measured. 25% between low and high is pretty much as it was.
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I'm using a Minolta CL-200 to measure in D65 preset uncalibrated mode. I'm waiting to put a few more hours on this unit before I calibrate.
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I'm using a Minolta CL-200 to measure in D65 preset uncalibrated mode. I'm waiting to put a few more hours on this unit before I calibrate.
Thanks. Yes in that case your measurements make sense, as this is not how the specs are measured.
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I will test out the other modes later. I'm assuming you're implying HDR mode plus the filter reduces lumen output more? I thought I could kill two birds with one stone and measure with and without the filter in place in the same mode. I was assuming the loss would be the same no matter the mode. But now I will check.
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No don’t worry, do your thing, I’ll take my own measurements next week, it doesn’t look like we have the same methodology.
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Here are some out of the box contrast measurements for my RS2000:
High Lamp, minimum zoom, iris fully open: 29,400, iris @ - 7: 39,563:1, iris @ -15; 62,100:1
High Lamp, max zoom, iris fully open: 23,450:1, iris @-7: 38,550:1, iris @-15: 50,800:1
Maximum dynamic contrast: 176,850:1, this indicates a 6x contrast multiplier.
Your maximum dynamic contrast number, was it measured in high lamp or low lamp? Also was it measured with the iris fully open?
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Your maximum dynamic contrast number, was it measured in high lamp or low lamp? Also was it measured with the iris fully open?
It was measured in high lamp mode, manual iris setting set to 0 (fully open) and the projector's lens at minimum zoom.
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No don’t worry, do your thing, I’ll take my own measurements next week, it doesn’t look like we have the same methodology.
Well, there's no "methodology" going on. I was doing quick measurements last night, nothing too involved. And now that I think about it, I must have put the projector into HDR10 mode to measure because that's the easiest way to enable the filter. If I remember correctly, this changes the color temp/color mode setting too. I will double check tonight when I have time to play with the RS2000 again. The other measurements were using User1 mode with the D65 preset enabled.
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Another interesting note. My convergence has now "settled". Now my unit needs no help with the software convergence control after the unit warms up. This is all good news because fresh out of the box it was off very bad.
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ENJOY the thing! That's what's for!! :) ;)
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ENJOY the thing! That's what's for!! :) ;)
Agreed. I spent about 10 hours with it yesterday mostly watching video content. I just know people want this info.
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Well, there's no "methodology" going on. I was doing quick measurements last night, nothing too involved. And now that I think about it, I must have put the projector into HDR10 mode to measure because that's the easiest way to enable the filter. If I remember correctly, this changes the color temp/color mode setting too. I will double check tonight when I have time to play with the RS2000 again. The other measurements were using User1 mode with the D65 preset enabled.
AFAIK the filter is disabled in the HDR preset, you need to select the BT2020 profile to enable the filter.
My remark about methodology wasn't about the filter, it's about measuring contrast and brightness in general.
As I said, I'd rather let you do your thing rather than question everything you do, or you're going to think I'm nitpicking :) . It's just that we don't measure things the same way. I'll give more details if/when I post measurements next week, you'll see what I mean, but I don't want to slow down the thread with constant questions, and I like the fact that you don't forget to enjoy the projector.
Keep it coming :)
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Agreed. I spent about 10 hours with it yesterday mostly watching video content. I just know people want this info.
How is the grey uniformity and (bright) corners compared to the RS500 you had?
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How is the grey uniformity and (bright) corners compared to the RS500 you had?
Greyfield and white field uniformity appear to be the same as the eshifters. I haven't measured but just looking by the eye it looks quite good. There are still bright corners. But it's the same as it always has been, they're next to impossible to see with realworld video content on screen.
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I don't particularly like the RS2000's built in upscaling. I'm seeing a lot of aliasing. I can confirm it's the internal scaling because madVR's NGU has no issues with aliasing scaling the same source. It almost appears to be a basic line doubling scaling. This could account for ARROW-AV's input lag measurement of 1080p and 4K inputs being virtually identical.
My recommendation would be to use something else to scale at the moment. Fortunately most devices these days have very good upscaling built in. I'm using madVR's NGU scaling for all my <4K resolution content. It looks marvelous. By far the best looking image I've ever seen from a projector. You guys waiting for your pre-orders are in for a treat!
I think the biggest difference, other than the resolution increase, is the massive improvement with internal reflections and lens streaking. Mixed content just looks punchier because the grey/black midtones aren't being washed out as much. With white text on an all black background I'm seeing just the tiniest amount of bloom around the text, but that's only if I'm up close to the screen. Im actually seeing more horizontal lens streaking than vertical.
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I can't comment on the other forum, but I saw a few people claiming that these JVCs have banding and posterization. I can emphatically state my RS2000 does not show any signs of this at all. Trust me, it was one of the first things I looked for. If there is banding and posterization it's in the source or created somewhere else in the chain.
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I received my RS-2000 on Friday :-* . No calibration, I just started with a couple of standard Blu-ray movies. Skyfall & C.A. Civil War. The first think I noticed like Dylan and Chad B. is that the scaling to 4k is not so good and I'm being nice. :-X I'm kind of surprised by how bad it is actually. I solved that pretty quickly by having my Oppo 203 do the upscaling and it was perfect from what I could tell. No jagged edges or line aliasing that I noticed using the JVC.
What I noticed about the picture is it's very calm and has a solidarity to the picture that my RS-500 didn't quite have. I love the way the iris works on Auto 2. With the manual iris at -8 for BD shooting a 117" wide image. I am zooming the image to fill the entire width of the panel and to my surprise I notice no artifacts. So, I am leaving it.
Uhd BD is another story. I'm still having a hard time after 4 hours on the clock to get a decent HDR picture. I've used the tone mapping in the JVC and it just okay, I feel like the colors look a little washed out. I also realized how many movies I have that have no metadata. Anyway I tried using the Oppo tone mapping and it's not the best either as people know. I will probably be buying a Panasonic at some point to do the tone mapping. HDR right now is a WIP for me and I will have Chad B. calibrate when my room is completed.
The high lamp is louder than I would like but, still okay I suppose. I would rather just use low lamp and iris at 0.
Like Dylan, I noticed no banding or posterization in the picture. Even with CMD on Low I didn't notice any.
Yes, I do like the picture more over the RS-500 I had and while the contrast on paper is not as good it looks fantastic to me. Especially since I feel the DI on the RS-2000 is better than it was on the RS-500.
I've already filled out the paper work for the free lamp. I should be good to go for a while. :)
To add, I also agree that internal reflections and lens streaking are much improved.
[/size]So, those are my thoughts right now with about 4 hours, more to come.
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Tom, nice summary. I agree with your take on the RS2000. It's a marvelous projector. I'm still seeing more artifacts with the dynamic iris than I would like to. Artifacts that weren't present with the older eshift dynamic iris. Someone on the other forum posted this:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/3038288-official-jvc-rs3000-nx9-jvc-rs2000-nx7-n7-jvc-rs1000-nx5-n5-owners-thread-176.html#post57584946 (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/3038288-official-jvc-rs3000-nx9-jvc-rs2000-nx7-n7-jvc-rs1000-nx5-n5-owners-thread-176.html#post57584946)
He doesn't know it, but this is caused by the dynamic gamma that is applied along with the physical iris movements. It's too aggressive which is why white shifts in color temperature. I'm seeing similar shifts with colors too. I really hope JVC works on this because it wasn't a problem with the eshift models. I'm running the latest 1.20 firmware.
I'm also seeing clipped whites with the dynamic iris that I didn't see before. If anyone has the means check this clip out:
https://mega.nz/#!3lEWma5Q!7u6dxJxHm8xMpanxYDCpAqsVCI7KCH3GbBH0IiUEBgU (https://mega.nz/#!3lEWma5Q!7u6dxJxHm8xMpanxYDCpAqsVCI7KCH3GbBH0IiUEBgU)
This is one of my go to clips to test out dynamic iris software. It's from The Hobbit. Keep an eye out on Gandalf's staff. Once he enters the cave the tip of his staff becomes one big white blob. You should be able to make out quite a bit of detail in it, but the heavy dynamic gamma stops that from happening. You can test this by disabling the DI and the enabling it to see what the dynamic iris/dynamic gamma is doing to the image and shifting it so much that clipping occurs (the white blob). I wonder if the old dynamic iris software could be ported over to these new models? Seeing how this is the same lens and iris I don't see why not?
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Dylan, I have made JVC aware of the gamma issue you are talking about and the 1080P scaling.
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Awesome Mike. JVC has been very good in the past fixing issues. In the mean time, the DI is not horrible by any stretch of the imagination. Its still works fairly well and is something I don't mind leaving enabled. It just struck me odd that its performing worse than before. Backtracking is not something JVC typically does.
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Anyone else receive their new JVC 4K projector?
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JVC did not ship very many to the US, so not very many owners of the 2000. Several of the 1000's have shipped. We even have a few 1000's in stock.
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Greetings,
Great info/discussion Gents. Thanks so much for your input!
Regards,
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Hi Ralph. Do you currently have one of the JVCs on preorder?
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Anyone else receive their new JVC 4K projector?
I received my rs2000 yesterday... working on it since, hoping to post soon... stay tuned! :)
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If someone gets a chance, I would appreciate a good deep-dive into the unit's ability to scale to the width of the chip (4096) vs non-scaled (3840). Is there any apparent sharpness loss this way? I'm referring to actual 4K content (not 1080p). Due to my room dimensions, when I eventually upgrade, I do not have enough throw with these new units so I would have to using the 4096 scaling to fit my screen - at least for scope. Thanks.
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If someone gets a chance, I would appreciate a good deep-dive into the unit's ability to scale to the width of the chip (4096) vs non-scaled (3840). Is there any apparent sharpness loss this way? I'm referring to actual 4K content (not 1080p). Due to my room dimensions, when I eventually upgrade, I do not have enough throw with these new units so I would have to using the 4096 scaling to fit my screen - at least for scope. Thanks.
Dave, for what it's worth I am using the scaling to 4096 to get a smidge more brightness and going back and forth could not see any difference but, I did not do a deep dive as you say with test patterns and pixel peeping. I didn't see any artifacts from my seated position at 11-1/2 feet back at 117" wide image. It looks great IMHO.
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Dave, for what it's worth I am using the scaling to 4096 to get a smidge more brightness and going back and forth could not see any difference but, I did not do a deep dive as you say with test patterns and pixel peeping. I didn't see any artifacts from my seated position at 11-1/2 feet back at 117" wide image. It looks great IMHO.
That's encouraging to hear, Tom. I sit about 9.5 to 10 feet back from a 108" wide screen.
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That's encouraging to hear, Tom. I sit about 9.5 to 10 feet back from a 108" wide screen.
Others have reported the same. :)
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I've posted some recommended settings and observations in the JVC 2019 calibration thread (https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=1850.msg11133#msg11133). More to follow... :)
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Expect to see another firmware update available early March.
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Posted detailed brightness (https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=1850.msg10395#msg10395) and contrast (https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=1850.msg10396#msg10396) measurements in the calibration (https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=1850.0) thread. I'll try to post more calibration measurements tomorrow...
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Thanks for your measurements. Lots of detailed information in there. I'm going to try and attempt a calibration this weekend. I really haven't looked at any test patterns yet except a couple to be sure the RS2000 can do 1:1 pixel mapping. I'm going to double check tonight that my black level isn't raised with the default brightness setting of 0. The eshifters had no issue there so I didn't even think to check that with some of the causal viewing I've done so far. If that's the case, I'm going to have to remeasure my unit as I suspect this has thrown my numbers off a bit. Ive been so busy with work this week I havent had time to power my RS2000 up much.
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With the x00 series I definitely saw differences in what brightness setting should be. There was no set it and forget it on that model for some reason. With the x40 series I believe it was -1.
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With the x00 series I definitely saw differences in what brightness setting should be. There was no set it and forget it on that model for some reason. With the x40 series I believe it was -1.
Thanks, I guess it was lucky that my rs500 behaved like all my previous JVCs, i.e. didn't raise the black floor with brightness=0.
It's one of the first things I check on every single PJ, and with the rs2000 it's the first time I had to lower brightness from the default.
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Does anyone know if there is an official form/application yet for US based owners to claim the free lamp?
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I think I solved the mystery of the filter numbers being all over the place!
Details in the calibration thread (https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=1850.msg11167#msg11167), with lots of measurements explaining, if confirmed, why the numbers go from 10% to 25%...
I don't think I'll keep posting these updates here, as I assume that by now those interested in calibration, settings and measurements will have subscribed to the calibration thread. But I think this is important enough to be mentioned here.
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Does anyone know if there is an official form/application yet for US based owners to claim the free lamp?
There certainly is. I got mine from my dealer when I got the projector a month ago and I've had the lamp for a couple of weeks.
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I've just posted some first impressions (https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=1850.msg10384#msg10384) (it's a draft) in the calibration thread.
Here is the tldnr: I'm super happy with my rs2000! :)
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Does anyone know if there is an official form/application yet for US based owners to claim the free lamp?
Mike should have sent you one.
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Mike should have sent you one.
Thanks, I'll take a look at my email again. I may have overlooked the form.
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Thanks, I'll take a look at my email again. I may have overlooked the form.
It's also posted under Promotions on each model page:
http://pro.jvc.com/pro/promo/rs_lamp/Reference_Series_Promo_FREE_LAMP_REBATE_Form_01162019.pdf (http://pro.jvc.com/pro/promo/rs_lamp/Reference_Series_Promo_FREE_LAMP_REBATE_Form_01162019.pdf)
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Does anyone know if there is an official form/application yet for US based owners to claim the free lamp?
It is on JVC's site, but I will send it to you.
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Mike should have sent you one.
Mike just did, but also on JVC's site. Click on free lamp promo.
http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/promotions.jsp?model_id=MDL102549&feature_id=07 (http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/promotions.jsp?model_id=MDL102549&feature_id=07)
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I just wanted to post this video to show my RS2000 has no issues with crazy lens streaking or reflections like some of the other units. At the beginning you'll see a box moving around the screen. Thats introduced by my camera's sensor or lens. I'm moving it fast to show you that's what that is. The other faint box moving when I use the lens shift is also introduced by the camera. I don't see any issues in person other than a little bit of blooming around the box and slight horizontal streaking. This is with the projector in high lamp mode, iris fully open in manual mode. So as much light as possible. If there were issues with internal reflections or streaking you'd see it here.
https://youtu.be/3HJWa8I1WFQ (https://youtu.be/3HJWa8I1WFQ)
Maybe I lucked out?
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Maybe I lucked out?
I think it's more like others might have lucked out :)
As I reported yesterday in my first impressions, I don't have any streaking either. Glad you're immune too!
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I was just looking at several of Masciola's HDR10 test patterns on my NX7 which has yet to be professionally calibrated. I was using default HDR (HDR10), manual iris=0. In the clipping test for flashing color bars: green, cyan, yellow & magenta were all clipping around 1100-1200 nits, but red and blue seemed to be clipping around 600 nits. Is this to be expected and, if not, will calibration bring these 2 colors in line with the other 4?
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Can anyone see how long it takes their projector to get to the 'D-ILA' screen powering up. Seems like a long time and not sure if it is normal. I didn't notice at the first two power ups but, last night I timed it. When I hit the power button on the remote to the time it took to get the 'D-ILA' screen was 2 minutes 25 seconds. Everything is working otherwise. I have 1.20 firmware which came on the projector.
Thanks.
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Can anyone see how long it takes their projector to get to the 'D-ILA' screen powering up. Seems like a long time and not sure if it is normal. I didn't notice at the first two power ups but, last night I timed it. When I hit the power button on the remote to the time it took to get the 'D-ILA' screen was 2 minutes 25 seconds. Everything is working otherwise. I have 1.20 firmware which came on the projector.
Thanks.
32 seconds to 'D-ILA' screen, slightly less than 45 seconds to show blue input screen. NX7, firmware v1.17
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Can anyone see how long it takes their projector to get to the 'D-ILA' screen powering up. Seems like a long time and not sure if it is normal. I didn't notice at the first two power ups but, last night I timed it. When I hit the power button on the remote to the time it took to get the 'D-ILA' screen was 2 minutes 25 seconds. Everything is working otherwise. I have 1.20 firmware which came on the projector.
Thanks.
I will check my unit but your time amount seems to match my unit too and I'm running v1.20 as well.
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I will check my unit but your time amount seems to match my unit too and I'm running v1.20 as well.
Thanks Dylan. The first two times I fired up the projector I didn't even notice probably because I was doing other things. I remembered someone posted in the other forum about the long time it took to get to the 'D-ILA' screen. So, I decided to time it. Everything is working excellent otherwise. 8)
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Thanks Dylan.The first two times I fired up the projector I didn't even notice probably because I was doing other things. I remembered someone posted in the other forum about the long time it took to get to the 'D-ILA' screen. So, I decided to time it. Everything is working excellent otherwise. 8)
The other person is saying his takes 6 minutes. But he also unplugged the projector, before it completed installation of 1.20 firmware. Not knowing that the projector needed to sit for about 15 minutes for step 7, which was missing from the instructions.
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Thanks Dylan.The first two times I fired up the projector I didn't even notice probably because I was doing other things. I remembered someone posted in the other forum about the long time it took to get to the 'D-ILA' screen. So, I decided to time it. Everything is working excellent otherwise. 8)
That's a special feature designed to give you just enough time to pull a cork from a wine bottle and pour everyone a glass. ::)
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When I fire up my unit later I will set a timer. It does take considerably longer than the eshift units, but I don't think it was 6 minutes.
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It took 1:12 to show the DiLA logo and another 13 from there to display an image. So 1 minute 25 seconds from power up to getting an image on the RS2000.
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Did a REC709/SDR calibration tonight:
(https://i.imgur.com/d2cbVpm.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/mHjVZov.png)
Greyscale needed a decent bit of help, but I could tell that right out of the box. I'll more than likely need to do another calibration in a month or so as I only have 25 hours on this bulb. I forgot to take a screenshot of the gamma curve, but that was pretty close to perfect out of the box. Brightness and contrast set to their default '0' setting clips and crushes properly at 235 and 16.
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Color accuracy out of the box has been looking good, from the measurements I have seen. :)
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It took 1:12 to show the DiLA logo and another 13 from there to display an image. So 1 minute 25 seconds from power up to getting an image on the RS2000.
I'll have to time my RS4500. It takes a little while to show the DILA screen. It does however turn off instantly !
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In the grand scheme of things 85 seconds isn't that long to wait. Now, 6 minutes like one other guy was reporting is a bit excessive. (https://discuss.avscience.com/Smileys/flat_emoji/grin.gif)
That seems to be with the older firmwares prior to 1.20 however.
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In the grand scheme of things 85 seconds isn't that long to wait. Now, 6 minutes like one other guy was reporting is a bit excessive. (https://discuss.avscience.com/Smileys/flat_emoji/grin.gif) That seems to be with the older firmwares prior to 1.20 however.
It was on firmware 1.20, but he interrupted the firmware install and now it is talking a long time to start up.
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In the grand scheme of things 85 seconds isn't that long to wait. Now, 6 minutes like one other guy was reporting is a bit excessive. (https://discuss.avscience.com/Smileys/flat_emoji/grin.gif)
That seems to be with the older firmwares prior to 1.20 however.
Agreed - 85 or 90 seconds is fine. Even my flat panel HDTV takes time to come on.
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Just saw this posted by a moderator on the other forum:
"Please don't link or discuss other forums on AVS."
What a joke. He's referring to a few now deleted posts talking about this forum. How can people tolerate posts being deleted? That forum is so poorly run and managed that tons of knowledgeable people have left for greener pastures. It's honestly turning into China with all the censorship and unjust bans. If it weren't for a few knowledgeable people left having in depth conversations I wouldn't even bother going there at all.
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Just saw this posted by a moderator on the other forum:
"Please don't link or discuss other forums on AVS."
What a joke. He's referring to a few now deleted posts talking about this forum. How can people tolerate posts being deleted? That forum is so poorly run and managed that tons of knowledgeable people have left for greener pastures. It's honestly turning into China with all the censorship and unjust bans. If it weren't for a few knowledgeable people left having in depth conversations I wouldn't even bother going there at all.
Ha!! Saw that as well. Appeared to be directed at Manni.
Kevin
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Just saw this posted by a moderator on the other forum:
"Please don't link or discuss other forums on AVS."
What a joke. He's referring to a few now deleted posts talking about this forum. How can people tolerate posts being deleted? That forum is so poorly run and managed that tons of knowledgeable people have left for greener pastures. It's honestly turning into China with all the censorship and unjust bans. If it weren't for a few knowledgeable people left having in depth conversations I wouldn't even bother going there at all.
You saw that too! Even my post was deleted and I didn't even mention this forum, I just said, "Wow, it's the old gang" after I googled to find the calibration discussion here... WTF is going on over there?
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You saw that too! Even my post was deleted and I didn't even mention this forum, I just said, "Wow, it's the old gang" after I googled to find the calibration discussion here... WTF is going on over there?
Glad to see you found us! :)
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You saw that too! Even my post was deleted and I didn't even mention this forum, I just said, "Wow, it's the old gang" after I googled to find the calibration discussion here... WTF is going on over there?
Ever since the forum was bought out a few years ago, things have deteriorated a lot. Besides them being unfair to AVScience, it seems their policies on warnings and who gets banned has changed a lot. It just seems that the wrong people usually end up in trouble. I won't name names, but there are two or three members over there that I know use the "report" button quite a bit to stir the pot and get others in trouble/warned/banned. This is why a lot of people have left or have been perma-banned like me. It seems more and more people are starting to see this. I hope this forum takes off. We don't have the same kinds of post count here, but I think we make up for it immensely with the quality of the content being posted here. Lots of useful information with little filler. Spread the word and tell people to come here if they feel the same.
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We just need a MadVR + JVC discussion over here and I can move over here full time ;). The calibration one is top notch. I have an RS2000.
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We just need a MadVR + JVC discussion over here and I can move over here full time ;). The calibration one is top notch. I have an RS2000.
Thanks for the kind words about the calibration thread :) I plan to start a madVR thread after a new public build is released with the latest HDR tonemapping improvements.For the moment, settings are changing daily, so it's pointless to make any recommendation.
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I hope this forum takes off. We don't have the same kinds of post count here, but I think we make up for it immensely with the quality of the content being posted here. Lots of useful information with little filler. Spread the word and tell people to come here if they feel the same.
Also, this forum doesnt have the useless chatter that makes it difficult to wade through to find usefull info. Thanks
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Yeah, I was shocked, when AVSF said you could not even discuss any other forum.
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We just need a MadVR + JVC discussion over here and I can move over here full time ;). The calibration one is top notch. I have an RS2000.
For the most part, madVR is the only thing I use. The quality of not only HDR to SDR conversion but also upscaling is just incredible to the point where I can't recommend anyone use anything else for UHD/1080p blu-ray content. Unless you have the cash for a Lumagen and even then I don't know if the image quality will be as good. The Lumagen Pro is definitely a better fit for those who want more of a plug n' play experience but it costs a fortune. The only pain in the neck with madVR is ripping the discs to my computer, but that is easy enough to do. Plus you can use something like Kodi to give your theater a Kaleidescape-like experience. When I have guests over they're very impressed.
When we're all spending tens of thousands of dollars on our theater equipment, I think going to these lengths to get the best possible looking image is important and using madVR really does give the image a little extra something. I'm excited to check out madshi's newest dynamic HDR processing. People are claiming better than HDR10+ results using it. This is important too, because the RS2000 doesn't support HDR10+ so this will be a better alternative.
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Yeah, I was shocked, when AVSF said you could not even discuss any other forum.
If you recall Mike, it's worse than that. I gave someone a link to this forum in a Private Message, and I got a warning for doing so. it like it run by ex Stasi officers. They must have watched " The Lives Of Others " and decided that was a good blueprint to run a forum.
They're listening ........ :-X:-[
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For the most part, madVR is the only thing I use. The quality of not only HDR to SDR conversion but also upscaling is just incredible to the point where I can't recommend anyone use anything else for UHD/1080p blu-ray content. Unless you have the cash for a Lumagen and even then I don't know if the image quality will be as good. The Lumagen Pro is definitely a better fit for those who want more of a plug n' play experience but it costs a fortune. The only pain in the neck with madVR is ripping the discs to my computer, but that is easy enough to do. Plus you can use something like Kodi to give your theater a Kaleidescape-like experience. When I have guests over they're very impressed. When we're all spending tens of thousands of dollars on our theater equipment, I think going to these lengths to get the best possible looking image is important and using madVR really does give the image a little extra something. I'm excited to check out madshi's newest dynamic HDR processing. People are claiming better than HDR10+ results using it. This is important too, because the RS2000 doesn't support HDR10+ so this will be a better alternative.
I can confirm that the new experiemental madVR tonemapping is better than HDR10+ :) You don't need to rip your discs to use madVR, you can play any physical disc as long as you have AnyDVDHD or similar running in the background. Then you only need to use a player that supports madVR (jRiver if you want menus, MPC-BE or others otherwise). I use MyMovies as a front-end, and it launches MPC-BE, although I use jRiver occasionally when I need menus. I also rip my discs to get this Kaleidescape experience, but I just wanted to point that it wasn't necessary, especially now that madVR is doing excellent dynamic tonemapping with the live algo (so it works even without measurements files). I'll start a thread for best calibration and playback settings with madVR after the next public build is released. Maybe I should create a placeholder explaining when it will start proper. Good to know you're a fan too and will be able to contribute. :)
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You don't need to rip your discs to use madVR, you can play any physical disc as long as you have AnyDVDHD or similar running in the background.
This is the first I've heard of this possibility! This could be a game changer for me. The idea of the tedium and time needed to rip hundreds of discs was pretty off-putting, but if this is the case, it might be enough to get me off my a$$ and start seriously considering MadVR and HTPC. Thanks!
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If you recall Mike, it's worse than that. I gave someone a link to this forum in a Private Message, and I got a warning for doing so. it like it run by ex Stasi officers. They must have watched " The Lives Of Others " and decided that was a good blueprint to run a forum. They're listening ........ :-X:-[
Yes, I'm not using PMs to exchange any kind of "sensitive" information. I ask to move to email. I've been very careful not to link to any outside forum, even in PMs, but it's a fine line to walk. :) I think I'll have to be even more careful now.
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I can confirm that the new experiemental madVR tonemapping is better than HDR10+ :) You don't need to rip your discs to use madVR, you can play any physical disc as long as you have AnyDVDHD or similar running in the background. Then you only need to use a player that supports madVR (jRiver if you want menus, MPC-BE or others otherwise).
:o:o:o Reeeeally!? If I can get a list of parts to build something in the $1200-1500 range to have MadVR scaling and HDR tonemapping I would. I just didn't want to go through the ripping process yet. 8):D looking for a more audio style case in the horizontal layout would be excellent. 8)
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I can confirm that the new experiemental madVR tonemapping is better than HDR10+ :) You don't need to rip your discs to use madVR, you can play any physical disc as long as you have AnyDVDHD or similar running in the background. Then you only need to use a player that supports madVR (jRiver if you want menus, MPC-BE or others otherwise). I use MyMovies as a front-end, and it launches MPC-BE, although I use jRiver occasionally when I need menus. I also rip my discs to get this Kaleidescape experience, but I just wanted to point that it wasn't necessary, especially now that madVR is doing excellent dynamic tonemapping with the live algo (so it works even without measurements files). I'll start a thread for best calibration and playback settings with madVR after the next public build is released. Maybe I should create a placeholder explaining when it will start proper. Good to know you're a fan too and will be able to contribute. :)
If you use the computer for your streaming, would you be able to use MadVR on the streamed content?
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Sorry for the additional MadVR diversion, but can it also shift subtitle position, and/or alter their luminance or other features?
I've been thinking of upgrading my UHD Player to gain the ability shift subtitles, which is sometimes needed on a scope screen, but if MadVR can now be used to play discs directly, and also shift subtitles, then I'll just wait a bit until the recent MadVR revolution is more settled with respect to HDR and Tone-mapping, and go that route!
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I can confirm that the new experiemental madVR tonemapping is better than HDR10+ :) You don't need to rip your discs to use madVR, you can play any physical disc as long as you have AnyDVDHD or similar running in the background. Then you only need to use a player that supports madVR (jRiver if you want menus, MPC-BE or others otherwise). I use MyMovies as a front-end, and it launches MPC-BE, although I use jRiver occasionally when I need menus. I also rip my discs to get this Kaleidescape experience, but I just wanted to point that it wasn't necessary, especially now that madVR is doing excellent dynamic tonemapping with the live algo (so it works even without measurements files). I'll start a thread for best calibration and playback settings with madVR after the next public build is released. Maybe I should create a placeholder explaining when it will start proper. Good to know you're a fan too and will be able to contribute. :)
I never said it was a must, but for me I like having them on my PC which is why I rip the discs. And what are you doing for discs that require seamless branching if you aren't remuxing to mkv (which can't happen if you aren't ripping)? The only way around it that I can think of would be to to load the appropriate .mpls file into your media player to avoid issues. But that would still require something like eac3to to find out which mpls file is correct to use. I guess. if you aren't ripping, JRiver might be the best option as it works more like a traditional blu-ray player and automatically detects these for seamless branching. I use MPC-HC as my media player.
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:o:o:o Reeeeally!? If I can get a list of parts to build something in the $1200-1500 range to have MadVR scaling and HDR tonemapping I would. I just didn't want to go through the ripping process yet. 8):D looking for a more audio style case in the horizontal layout would be excellent. 8)
Same here. If no ripping required, this could be a game changer right here.
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Sorry for the additional MadVR diversion, but can it also shift subtitle position, and/or alter their luminance or other features?
I've been thinking of upgrading my UHD Player to gain the ability shift subtitles, which is sometimes needed on a scope screen, but if MadVR can now be used to play discs directly, and also shift subtitles, then I'll just wait a bit until the recent MadVR revolution is more settled with respect to HDR and Tone-mapping, and go that route!
You can easily do that on a panasonic UB820. I just played with that the other night in fact.
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You guys mean shift the subtitles so they're always in the video portion of the frame? Yes, that is something you can setup. I think it's setup that way by default with my media player.
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You guys mean shift the subtitles so they're always in the video portion of the frame? Yes, that is something you can setup. I think it's setup that way by default with my media player.
You can easily do that on a panasonic UB820. I just played with that the other night in fact.
That's definitely one of the appeals of the UB820, and one of the reasons I've thought of upgrading. But if I can set up an HTPC with MadVR, play discs, and shift the subtitles, then that would do it all for me.
Dylan, that's good news. Most of the time, with scope screens, the subtitles are within the video portion, but every once in a while, they're either entirely within the black bars, or overlapping the content and black bars. That makes them unusable with a scope screen. So being able to shift them up where they can be seen would be awesome.
And on this subject, it is my understanding that sometimes the subtitles are 'hard' encoded and can't be moved. But hopefully that wouldn't occur too often.
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If you use the computer for your streaming, would you be able to use MadVR on the streamed content?
It depends if the software you use for streaming supports madVR or not. I know that some DVB software support madVR, but I'm not sure about streaming app as for now I use my UB900 for casual streaming.
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I never said it was a must, but for me I like having them on my PC which is why I rip the discs. And what are you doing for discs that require seamless branching if you aren't remuxing to mkv (which can't happen if you aren't ripping)? The only way around it that I can think of would be to to load the appropriate .mpls file into your media player to avoid issues. But that would still require something like eac3to to find out which mpls file is correct to use. I guess. if you aren't ripping, JRiver might be the best option as it works more like a traditional blu-ray player and automatically detects these for seamless branching. I use MPC-HC as my media player.
Well, you kind of implied it when you stated that "the only pain in the neck with madVR was to rip your discs". :) That's why I clarified to say it wasn't necessary.
MPC-BE is usually perfectly fine to find the correct .mpls if you read a bdmv folder (including seamless branching), but occasionally it won't be the one you're after, especially when you have two versions on the same disc (theatrical / extended for example). jRiver gives you menus (when they work, some titles still have issues as UHD BD Menus us still quite experimental, so is the closest to a standalone player.
I don't know about MPC, I always prefered MPC-BE for cinema use as it's interface is nicer and MPC-HC is kind of dead now, so it's a bit of a dead end.
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Manni, I will try with MPC-BE. MPC-HC is hit or miss. Most 1080p full discs it correctly finds the right playlist mpls file to play, but not many UHD BDs are working. Same with JRiver. This is why I remux to MKV files.
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Manni, I will try with MPC-BE. MPC-HC is hit or miss. Most 1080p full discs it correctly finds the right playlist mpls file to play, but not many UHD BDs are working. Same with JRiver. This is why I remux to MKV files.
You might be correct, I have remuxed to mkvs until now due to measurements files. I know that BD folders work fine but I haven't tried many UHD BD Folders with MPC-BE, as I use jRiver for that (usually it's because I need the menus, so can't use MPC). JRiver can be hit and miss regarding menus, but it seems to be working fine to play the main title for most of the titles I tried. For sure none of these delivers the predicable playback of a standalone player if you don't remux first.
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If you use the computer for your streaming, would you be able to use MadVR on the streamed content?
My understanding is that streaming on a computer is only via a browser (directly or indirectly) and that it is limited to 1280x720 (and no HDR, of course). There are ways to use madVR with this, but it doesn't seem very useful.
I'd love to hear that I'm mistaken but, at this point, I don't hold out much hope.
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I don't know about other services, but Netflix is not limited to 720p on a PC. You can get 1080p from Netflix on a PC, but not HDR. There's even a Chrome extension that allow you to force 1080p streaming from Netflix. Because it's so easy to pirate material off of Netflix, Amazon and other services through a PC's web browser, they don't usually offer the highest quality streams like you'd get from other standalone devices. You guys hoping for one component to give you the best video quality possible are going to be waiting for a long time. You're still going to need at least 2 devices to get the best image from any given source. madVR is the best source, and has been for a long time, for 1080p and UHD blu-ray. To get all the bells and whistles for streaming sources you'll need a different device.
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I'm using KODI-DSP as my movie browsing software. Does anyone know if the DSP version is still required (vs the regular KODI)?
Manni, thanks for mentioning MyMovies - I had never heard of it but will check it out.
I have the Lumagen Pro but do all my HDR tone mapping with madVR - it's much better. My Lumagen still tonemaps when I stream Netflix via my Panasonic but otherwise it's really just a video switcher for me (my AVR is still 1080p).
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Yes, the regular Kodi software does not support madVR to render/scale video. However, you're able to replace the built in media player inside Kodi with MPC-HC. That's what I do. So basically you get the beautiful front end of Kodi with the benefits of using a different media player that supports madVR. It's seamless too so you'd never know you weren't using the built in player. There are some step by step guides on how to do this. Just google search if you're interested.
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Yes, the regular Kodi software does not support madVR to render/scale video. However, you're able to replace the built in media player inside Kodi with MPC-HC. That's what I do. So basically you get the beautiful front end of Kodi with the benefits of using a different media player that supports madVR. It's seamless too so you'd never know you weren't using the built in player. There are some step by step guides on how to do this. Just google search if you're interested.
Ok, well if it's seamless then I want to try it! While I like Kodi DSP, it is not being continuously developed and has some issues that I'm hoping have been resolved in the regular Kodi (example: doesn't recognize when a movie has been removed).
Oh wait, MPC-HC, that is also dead software. Are you sure you didn't mean MPC-BE?
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I use MPC-HC. Seeing how it's just a shell, if you will, that can use external decoders and renderers, it doesn't need to be further developed. I don't think I've ever had issues with the media player itself with anything I've played through it. You're free to use MPC-BE if you want.
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My NX5 should be here Friday. It’s my first projector and going in a newly designed theater room in my basement so fully light controlled environment with a screen innovations series 3 133” 2.35:1 screen. I’m new to projectors obviously so if anyone can recommend a disc or something to help me calibrate I’d appreciate the info. Or at least tell me I made a smart decision since I’ve never paid this much for something I couldn’t drive. .
I’ve searched for reviews but haven’t found any yet so I hope I’m making the right decision in buying this over the much much less expensive epson 5040. Also, for anyone who’s on here thinking about buying one but can’t find a dealer here in the states, Best Buy can order them through their Magnolia centers.
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It's a great projector - much better than an Epson 5040 ! Of course you can order both of these projectors mentioned through AV Science ! ;)
You might consider getting someone like Chad B in to calibrate your RS1000 - http://www.hdtvbychadb.com/ (http://www.hdtvbychadb.com/)
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The N5 is a great projector too. Though I don't think it's fair to directly compare it to the Epson 5040 due to the large difference in price. At the 5040's price point, it's ridiculously hard to beat. It offers a ton of value. However, the N5 should be a step up in just about every single area that matters. Let us know when you get it and what you think once you get the chance to play with it and compare it to the Epson.
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Yeah it seems like an unfair comparison to me too. But what’s in between? Maybe the Sony 295 but without lens memory and almost as high a price I ruled it out. As soon as I have it up and running I will definitely post my impressions. I’ll have a full atmos setup as well so I’m looking forward to writing some UHD reviews in general and maybe starting a YouTube channel at some point.
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Just to report a bug in the rs2000: when 12bits is sent from an nVidia GPU, although the output is set to RGB and the info on the JVC reports RGB 12bits, the JVC switches internally to ycc422. This causes the wrong levels to be applied (you need to select 0-255 as there is no video levels in YCC). There is no such bug in 8bits. HDMI bandwidth isn't an issue as this happens at 23p, and 8bits is forced by the driver at 60p anyway. It would be great if JVC could correct this.
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Just to report a bug in the rs2000: when 12bits is sent from an nVidia GPU, although the output is set to RGB and the info on the JVC reports RGB 12bits, the JVC switches internally to ycc422. This causes the wrong levels to be applied (you need to select 0-255 as there is no video levels in YCC). There is no such bug in 8bits. HDMI bandwidth isn't an issue as this happens at 23p, and 8bits is forced by the driver at 60p anyway. It would be great if JVC could correct this.
I noticed the same thing. I had just assumed the projector was incorrectly detecting proper levels. It wasn't a total issue for me because I could still manually select proper levels on the projector. I hope they fix this with a future firmware update.
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Yeah it seems like an unfair comparison to me too. But what’s in between? Maybe the Sony 295 but without lens memory and almost as high a price I ruled it out. As soon as I have it up and running I will definitely post my impressions. I’ll have a full atmos setup as well so I’m looking forward to writing some UHD reviews in general and maybe starting a YouTube channel at some point.
Has been reported to JVC. Thank you.
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As there has been quite a bit of interest in madVR in this thread, I thought you might be interested in this (https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=1914.0)... :)
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Just to report a bug in the rs2000: when 12bits is sent from an nVidia GPU, although the output is set to RGB and the info on the JVC reports RGB 12bits, the JVC switches internally to ycc422. This causes the wrong levels to be applied (you need to select 0-255 as there is no video levels in YCC). There is no such bug in 8bits. HDMI bandwidth isn't an issue as this happens at 23p, and 8bits is forced by the driver at 60p anyway. It would be great if JVC could correct this.
Response back:
"I need a little more clarity.
RGB is 4:4:4 color. You can’t do 4k/60P/4:4:4 at 12 bit. 8 bit is max. That is spelled out in the manual.
I’m sure computers can output it, but I don’t know that there is any content. I don’t think it’s part of the HDMI spec. I am sure it’s not part of our spec."
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As there has been quite a bit of interest in madVR in this thread, I thought you might be interested in this (https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=1914.0)... :)
I am definitely interested. :)
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Response back:
"I need a little more clarity.
RGB is 4:4:4 color. You can’t do 4k/60P/4:4:4 at 12 bit. 8 bit is max. That is spelled out in the manual.
I’m sure computers can output it, but I don’t know that there is any content. I don’t think it’s part of the HDMI spec. I am sure it’s not part of our spec."
Thanks Mike.
i don’t think they have fully read/understood the report.
Of course 4K60p can’t be output in 12bits. The driver never sends 4K60p in 12bits, it reverts automatically to 8bits when 60p content is played if 12bits is selected by default. You can’t select 12bits for a 4K60p refresh rate anyway, the driver only accepts 8bits at 60p.
The issue I reported is for 4K RGB Full (always 4:4:4) 12bits at 23/24/25/30p. This is when the JVC forces YCC 4:2:2 internally, and that’s incorrect. At these refresh rates, 12bits is entirely legal and part of the HDMI specs, and within the 18gb/s bandwidth, so there is no reason for the JVC to force YCC4:2:2, especially as it doesn’t report so in the info screen and reports RGB 12bits. This is what it should accept and display at these refresh rates.
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Thanks Mike.
i don’t think they have fully read/understood the report.
Of course 4K60p can’t be output in 12bits. The driver never sends 4K60p in 12bits, it reverts automatically to 8bits when 60p content is played if 12bits is selected by default. You can’t select 12bits for a 4K60p refresh rate anyway, the driver only accepts 8bits at 60p.
The issue I reported is for 4K RGB Full (always 4:4:4) 12bits at 23/24/25/30p. This is when the JVC forces YCC 4:2:2 internally, and that’s incorrect. At these refresh rates, 12bits is entirely legal and part of the HDMI specs, and within the 18gb/s bandwidth, so there is no reason for the JVC to force YCC4:2:2, especially as it doesn’t report so in the info screen and reports RGB 12bits. This is what it should accept and display at these refresh rates.
Have passed this info on. I think JVC is following the problem now.
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Well, after ordering at the first of October, I finally received my RS2000 on Wednesday evening. I opted for the "ship straight from the port" shipping and was surprised to see that it was still placed in a second box with giant bubble-wrap around the manufacturer's box. As a result, the outer box was unmarked, no "fragile", no "this side up". I walked out to the UPS truck where I was pleased that the driver had already put the hand truck out to bring it up to my house. However, due to no markings on the box he brought it out of the truck to the dolly by "rolling" it end-over-end on its side :(. The good news is, after I got it opened up, there was no shipping damage and the styrofoam wasn't even cracked.
I am a first-time projector owner coming from a nearly 20 year-old 3-gun CRT RPTV, the Pioneer Elite PRO-610HD (1080i). Granted, it was about the best picture of that generation and thanks to optics cleaning and calibration is still amazing for that technology. But let me just say, the RS2000 right out of the box on my 120" 2.41 scope Stewart ST100 screen using the Paladin DCR is MIND BLOWING! It has firmware 1.21 and I have been following this thread and that "other" owner's thread since the beginning but I can't tell what the update fixed (it still has yellow on some low APL shots like credits). There is no DI noise, I can hear the filter move in and the High Lamp fan noise is definitely loud enough to hear in quiet scenes but my setup is bright enough that I have switched to low lamp for HDR.
My startup time is around 50 seconds to the D-ILA logo. Warmed up convergence only needed 1 pixel blue vertical. I have it ceiling-mounted at 15' in a bat cave, dedicated home theater (flat black and dark grey SW paints). I use an Oppo 203 and have only made a couple settings adjustments based on tips I've been reading. I tried to be serious all day Thursday and only do setup and adjustment tasks but once you start a good content clip it's hard not to just sit down and watch it.
I will eventually do my best to do some DIY calibration (have a Spyder 5 and a cheap lux meter) but when the wife saw the picture the first time she immediately invited friends for movies Friday night! This machine was totally worth the wait.
Just wanted to check in here and negate the negative trolling that happened recently.
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Well, after ordering at the first of October, I finally received my RS2000 on Wednesday evening. I opted for the "ship straight from the port" shipping and was surprised to see that it was still placed in a second box with giant bubble-wrap around the manufacturer's box. As a result, the outer box was unmarked, no "fragile", no "this side up". I walked out to the UPS truck where I was pleased that the driver had already put the hand truck out to bring it up to my house. However, due to no markings on the box he brought it out of the truck to the dolly by "rolling" it end-over-end on its side :(. The good news is, after I got it opened up, there was no shipping damage and the styrofoam wasn't even cracked.
I am a first-time projector owner coming from a nearly 20 year-old 3-gun CRT RPTV, the Pioneer Elite PRO-610HD (1080i). Granted, it was about the best picture of that generation and thanks to optics cleaning and calibration is still amazing for that technology. But let me just say, the RS2000 right out of the box on my 120" 2.41 scope Stewart ST100 screen using the Paladin DCR is MIND BLOWING! It has firmware 1.21 and I have been following this thread and that "other" owner's thread since the beginning but I can't tell what the update fixed (it still has yellow on some low APL shots like credits). There is no DI noise, I can hear the filter move in and the High Lamp fan noise is definitely loud enough to hear in quiet scenes but my setup is bright enough that I have switched to low lamp for HDR.
My startup time is around 50 seconds to the D-ILA logo. Warmed up convergence only needed 1 pixel blue vertical. I have it ceiling-mounted at 15' in a bat cave, dedicated home theater (flat black and dark grey SW paints). I use an Oppo 203 and have only made a couple settings adjustments based on tips I've been reading. I tried to be serious all day Thursday and only do setup and adjustment tasks but once you start a good content clip it's hard not to just sit down and watch it.
I will eventually do my best to do some DIY calibration (have a Spyder 5 and a cheap lux meter) but when the wife saw the picture the first time she immediately invited friends for movies Friday night! This machine was totally worth the wait.
Just wanted to check in here and negate the negative trolling that happened recently.
Don't do anything with autocal yet. JVC needs to work on autocal.
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Yes, autocal for now is broken...
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Have passed this info on. I think JVC is following the problem now.
Thanks Mike.
A bit more info on the RGB 12bits issue:
YCC444 12bits has the same issue. It should be a valid mode in 23, 24, 25, 29 and 30p, but YCC422 is also forced internally, even if the INFO screen reports RGB 12bits.
Interestingly I have checked with the Maestro and the content sent by the GPU is indeed RGB 12bits, so it looks like it's something that the JVC does once it receives the content, so clearly not related to a bandwidth issue.
Regarding the yellowing/blooming when the DI is enabled, I am making some progress with this as well.
I wasn't able to reproduce this when using my UB900 outputting HDR (BT2020,PQ) either in RGB or YCC 12bits.
I only get the yellowing/blooming with the HTPC if the source does the tonemapping (SDR BT2020 or DCI-P3, power gamma calibration in the JVC). If I set the HTPC to passthrough and send HDR to the JVC, using the same HDR calibration used by the UB900 sending HDR, most of the blooming/yellowing goes away. The iris setting is the same in both cases (fully open). The DI is set to Auto2.
This is not madVR/HTPC specific as people are reporting the issue with an XBOX (though you could consider this a HTPC of sort). I'm trying to identify exactly what the XBOX is sending and which calibration the JVC is using, but I haven't been able to extract the exact information yet. It would be interesting to see if no one reports this issue with a standalone player. Kris Deering apparently couldn't reproduce with his RS3000, and I'm guessing he was using a standalone player, a UB9000 I think.
I am trying to get more info from users who are seeing the issue, until you confirm that JVC can reproduce the issue and will fix it.
@Dylan, I know that you are seeing this on your rs2000, I assume you are using madVR as a source. Please could you do three things to help pin this down:
1) if you set madVR to HDR passthrough instead of using the pixel shader tonemapping, and if you select a HDR calibration in the JVC (BT2020, PQ) with the manual iris set to fully open, is the blooming/yellowing reduced/does it go away? Please can you report your colorspace, bit depth, colorimetry, SDR/HDR reported by the INFO screen on the JVC when you see the issue and when you don't?
2) If you have a standalone UHD Bluray player, please could you try to reproduce as well, and let us know whether the issue is there or not, as well as reporting the same info (colorspace etc)?
3) If you have an XBOX, can you try as well and report the info?
I'm using the UHD Bluray of Lucy as the blooming is very visible just after 00:01:30, after the LUCY title, when the picture comes out of black. The water at the centre of the screen goes from a yellow blob to its expected color over a few seconds when the DI is enabled. There is no issue whatsoever with the DI disabled, irrespective of the source. If you're not using Lucy, please report title and exact timecode where you see the issue.
Anyone observing the issue, please report source, colorspace, colorimetry, bit depth, HDR/SDR reported by the JVC INFO screen and calibration used (SDR/HDR, gamut, gamma) so we can try to pin this down and help JVC to reproduce and fix.
Same if you don't see the issue. All the info above will help to see if there is a specific situation that triggers the issue.
Please always use Auto2 and iris fully open when testing, to make sure you don't miss the issue when present.
Thanks!
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Have reported the above to JVC.
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Have reported the above to JVC.
Thanks Mike.
I'll post additional info to help JVC reproduce once I've gathered more data.
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I have a noob question that Manni could probably answer quickly (and might be better in the calibration thread):
I have been glued to my RS2000 since I installed it 5 days ago. I made a few of the recommended adjustments and started watching lots of sample clips and test disks/files. It is phenomenal IMHO. After a day or so I decided to put in the Spears and Munsil disk to at least see if I had brightness and contrast setup well. Then I got to the "gamut test" pattern and it was failing all of the tests where I should see a darker square in the middle of the color squares. I had my Oppo 203 set to pretty much auto everything and it was sending various levels of YCC up to 4:4:4 (which my JVC info reports always as "YUV" which I'm presuming is another name for YCC?).
I decided to force other colorspaces and only when I choose "RGB Video" as the output does the gamut test pass (showing a few, not all, of the darker squares). My question is, is the RGB 12 bit that the JVC is reporting a better signal for the projector input? What is preferred? Are there limitations to using RGB instead of YCC? (ok, multiple questions..)
Regular content, both SDR and HDR still look totally amazing btw...
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Hi Chris,
I don't use or trust the filters, so maybe someone else can comment on this.
However, if you select the correct gamut/gamma/calibration in the PJ settings (see recommended settings in the calibration thread), they track very well, so I wouldn't worry about this if there is nothing off in the picture.
Re colourspace, there is a bug (reported to JVC) with RGB 12bits (and YCC444 12bits) that converts it internally to YCC422 even at 30p and below, which isn't desirable nor correct. Hopefully this will get fixed in a future f/w update.
If your consumer source (i.e. non-HTPC) allows you to select YCC444 10 or 12bits for 23p content and automatically switches to 422 or 8bits with 4K60p, then I would use that. That's what I do with the UB900 (YCC444 Auto, which selects 12bits 444 for 30p and down, and 12bits 422 otherwise, so that the content stays within the HDMI bandwidth limitations).
Otherwise, I would select YCC422 12bits as it works for all refresh rates within the 18gb/s of HDMI 2.0x.
I would only use RGB with an HTPC, or if you confirm with chroma patterns that it gives you better results than YCC.
If you have any further calibration related question, yes please post it in the calibration thread.
If it's about user settings, here is fine. :)
Glad to hear you're enjoying your rs2000, I'm enjoying mine too! :)
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Thanks for the reply Manni.
I'm back to the YCC auto settings and now that I studied a lot of content I can see that is better than the RGB mode. I noticed that in RGB any content with saturated reds looked oversaturated. It was like red celluloid was cut out and superimposed onto the red objects in the scene. Really fake looking reds. When I put it back to the YCC, the reds looked saturated but very natural.
This afternoon I finally sat down and watched the UHD/HDR 2001 disk. I mean, just WOW! I bet the folks at the 1968 premier didn't have as good an experience!
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Dylan, are you okay? I hope you're only enjoying the rs2000, the way it should be :)
By the way, I tried MPC-BE and it played the correct playlist with most of the UHD Bluray folders I dropped in, so it might be better than MPC-HC in this area (one example where ongoing development to support new formats might help). You might want to try it.
I also have figured out why River was hit and miss with UHD Bluray menus: it needs copyback for the UHD menus to work most of the time. If you use D3D11 native (which tends to be faster especially for measuring files with MadVR), it fails displaying the menus most of the time. With copyback, it's fine almost 100% of the time, which makes sense as UHD Bluray playback relies on a software implementation.
I hope we'll hear more from you and your rs2000 soon.
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"Dylan, are you okay? I hope you're only enjoying the rs2000, the way it should be :)
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I hope we'll hear more from you and your rs2000 soon."
Probably the same as Zombie10k. Last post I saw of his was he was receiving a RS2000? in a day or two. :)
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Dylan, are you okay? I hope you're only enjoying the rs2000, the way it should be :)
By the way, I tried MPC-BE and it played the correct playlist with most of the UHD Bluray folders I dropped in, so it might be better than MPC-HC in this area (one example where ongoing development to support new formats might help). You might want to try it.
I also have figured out why River was hit and miss with UHD Bluray menus: it needs copyback for the UHD menus to work most of the time. If you use D3D11 native (which tends to be faster especially for measuring files with MadVR), it fails displaying the menus most of the time. With copyback, it's fine almost 100% of the time, which makes sense as UHD Bluray playback relies on a software implementation.
I hope we'll hear more from you and your rs2000 soon.
Sorry, I was in Europe on vacation until a few days ago. Haven't had much time to spend with the RS2000 since I got home. My RS2000 review is done and is currently over at JVC for fact checking. Though, word count was limited to ~3500 words so it isn't as complete of a review as I would have liked. I'm still planning on creating a comparison thread here on my thoughts of the RS2000 vs 695ES that I think will go a little deeper than my review. I'm working on the Sony review now so I have a lot of thoughts on that projector fresh in my head as well. On top of all this, I may be getting an RS3000 from JVC to review.
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Well got the projector now I just have to finish the theater so I can actually use it. Speakers haven’t come in yet either but I’m all for some silent films.
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Sorry, I was in Europe on vacation until a few days ago. Haven't had much time to spend with the RS2000 since I got home. My RS2000 review is done and is currently over at JVC for fact checking. Though, word count was limited to ~3500 words so it isn't as complete of a review as I would have liked. I'm still planning on creating a comparison thread here on my thoughts of the RS2000 vs 695ES that I think will go a little deeper than my review. I'm working on the Sony review now so I have a lot of thoughts on that projector fresh in my head as well. On top of all this, I may be getting an RS3000 from JVC to review.
Sounds great, looking forward to reading your reviews and comparisons :)
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https://youtu.be/875CkjrnyFk
Saw this posted yesterday on YouTube, first shootout I’ve seen yet.
Now this has me feeling like crap about breaking the bank on the nx5. Any thoughts on if it’s really that drastic of a step up to the nx7? He makes 2000 sound like such an insignificant amount difference. ☹️☹️
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Saw this posted yesterday on YouTube, first shootout I’ve seen yet.
Now this has me feeling like crap about breaking the bank on the nx5. Any thoughts on if it’s really that drastic of a step up to the nx7? He makes 2000 sound like such an insignificant amount difference. ☹️☹️
You don't know how he has both projectors set up. That's basically a commercial for that guy to sell RS2000's. Not that Mike and I don't sell them too, but I'm not seeing any calibration or setting details on both projectors. Take quick videos like that on the internet with a grain of salt
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You don't know how he has both projectors set up. That's basically a commercial for that guy to sell RS2000's. Not that Mike and I don't sell them too, but I'm not seeing any calibration or setting details on both projectors. Take quick videos like that on the internet with a grain of salt
That, plus would you trust a guy comparing contrast on two projectors with *white* paint on his front wall? ???
This comparison is worth exactly zero, the biggest limitation is his room.
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Yeah i expect the more expensive model to be better honestly. That makes sense and it is rated double the contrast. But the way he said it was a HUGE difference made me question myself. 2000 dollars is a lot to me but listening to him makes me feel like I should’ve spent it anyway. This is all new to me so I’m doing the best to learn a lot in a short time building my theater. So far I’ve got the speakers, projector, screen and the room is almost finished. Just a million more pieces to the puzzle before I can pop in my first uhd disc and actually enjoy the fruits of all this labor!
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That, plus would you trust a guy comparing contrast on two projectors with *white* paint on his front wall? ???
This comparison is worth exactly zero, the biggest limitation is his room.
Not just his front wall. The whole room is white. Love the contrast optimized room he is using. If the guy knew what he was doing, he would never have produced that video.
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Not just his front wall. The whole room is white. Love the contrast optimized room he is using. If the guy knew what he was doing, he would never have produced that video.
Considering that video is really just a marketing video, how long will Verticalscope leave it up over there ? Maybe we should do one Mike, and get other people to link it all over the AVS Forum ! ::)
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Any forum users with JVC RS1000 or other JVC models with similar brightness (~1800) are able to use it on a 160" diagonal Stewart Firehawk (1.1 gain) screen?
My hometheater is in the living room open to the kitchen with some ambient light during day time despite all light blocking shades.
I am a long time Epson HC 5410UB user and waiting to get either JVC RS1000 or Epson HC 5050UB.
I am used to a nice punchy bright image from Epson on my large 16:10 screen and kind of scared to try JVC and wanted to see if any other users with similar set up can chime in!
Peter
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Any forum users with JVC RS1000 or other JVC models with similar brightness (~1800) are able to use it on a 160" diagonal Stewart Firehawk (1.1 gain) screen?
My hometheater is in the living room open to the kitchen with some ambient light during day time despite all light blocking shades.
I am a long time Epson HC 5410UB user and waiting to get either JVC RS1000 or Epson HC 5050UB.
I am used to a nice punchy bright image from Epson on my large 16:10 screen and kind of scared to try JVC and wanted to see if any other users with similar set up can chime in!
Peter
Pricing for the Epson 5050 was announced today - $2999.00. the 5050UBe is $3,299. If you would like to discuss the projectors, give us a call. That is a large screen to light up. You may be better off with the Epson.
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ANSI contrast measurements added to the contrast section in the calibration thread (https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=1850.0) for those interested.
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Yeah, ANSI looks like it is about the same as before. Excellent thread mani.
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Has anyone compared the lumagen dynamic hdr tone mapping to the one on MAdVr?
I am on the fence on buying either the lumagen radiance pro, madvr envy, or build an HTPC. Iam also interested on the 3D lut calibration feature.
I am using a jvc rs2000 projector, an 144 studiotek 130 cinemascope screen, and my sources are a uhd blu ray player and a roku ultra.
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Has anyone compared the lumagen dynamic hdr tone mapping to the one on MAdVr?
I am on the fence on buying either the lumagen radiance pro, madvr envy, or build an HTPC. Iam also interested on the 3D lut calibration feature.
I am using a jvc rs2000 projector, an 144 studiotek 130 cinemascope screen, and my sources are a uhd blu ray player and a roku ultra.
I think you'll struggle to find much very much qualified opinion on the matter, probably the best place will be the Lumagen thread at the other place. In general up until now not many folk would have reason to use both; the folk using Lumagens (like me) usually want to correct sources other than UHD / BD rips, so it doesn't really matter what MadVR looks like, on a PC at the moment it doesn't do anything useful for us. Undoubtedly that will all change if the MadVR ENVY sees light of day, which will be good for everyone.
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I think you'll struggle to find much very much qualified opinion on the matter, probably the best place will be the Lumagen thread at the other place. In general up until now not many folk would have reason to use both; the folk using Lumagens (like me) usually want to correct sources other than UHD / BD rips, so it doesn't really matter what MadVR looks like, on a PC at the moment it doesn't do anything useful for us. Undoubtedly that will all change if the MadVR ENVY sees light of day, which will be good for everyone.
I would think it would be unusual to find someone with both, but you never know. The MadVR Envy will be interesting - more choices are good !
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If you're willing to build an HTPC I'd suggest you go that route. It's too soon to know what the Envy device is going to be capable of but we can be sure of one thing and that's that an HTPC will more than likely have more processing power than what's inside the Envy device. This leaves an HTPC as more flexible in what it can do with madVR while also offering a higher level of image processing capabilities. An HTPC will also be upgradable. I just replaced my aging GTX 980 graphics card with a new RTX 2070, which is dramatically faster which now allows me to use some of the higher quality options within madVR that I couldn't previously use. Unless the Envy device is using real graphics cards (and not some sort of specialized FPGA) I don't think it will be as capable of a real HTPC with madVR It's also going to offer similar (probably better) image quality and tone mapping compared to a Lumagen at a dramatically lower price point. It just has so much more processing power compared to a lumagen.
I understand a lot of people watch content from a variety of places which means an HTPC isn't always something you can use. But for me, I only watch bluray and uhd bluray content on my projectors. I only really watched streamed content on my desktop PC or TV in my living room so an HTPC with madVR in the theater is a perfect solution. For others, I understand, it won't be.
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Can't believe I forgot about this forum. The other one is watered down with useless chatter. Good to find a useful forum again, plus tired of those infractions. Probably on my last one.
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Can't believe I forgot about this forum. The other one is watered down with useless chatter. Good to find a useful forum again, plus tired of those infractions. Probably on my last one.
We hear you! This forum has a lot more substance than the other forum which is filled with back and forth bickering. Feel free to post here more often!
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We hear you! This forum has a lot more substance than the other forum which is filled with back and forth bickering. Feel free to post here more often!
I definitely will I was wondering why you haven't posted there lol. But I'm enjoying my rs2000 so much. About to sell my oppo 203 to upgrade my pc. Been using my original pc as my server
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Has anyone compared the lumagen dynamic hdr tone mapping to the one on MAdVr?
I am on the fence on buying either the lumagen radiance pro, madvr envy, or build an HTPC. Iam also interested on the 3D lut calibration feature.
I am using a jvc rs2000 projector, an 144 studiotek 130 cinemascope screen, and my sources are a uhd blu ray player and a roku ultra.
Without any objective comparison of the processing and tonemapping quality from madVR and the Radiance Pro, you need to think about a few things to rule out options and find the best choice for you, because these two options don't have the same purpose:
- Do you want to be able to calibrate and process all your non-HTPC sources? If yes, that rules out the HTPC, as madVR on a HTPC can only process PC content.
- Are you ready to rip all your discs to hard drives, and invest in the additional cost? If not, a lot of the added value of the HTPC goes away. You can still use the HTPC with discs, but it's much less fun.
- The Radiance is a very good processor, but it doesn't have the processing power of a HTPC with a 1080ti or 2080 GPU (or better). Its processing is good but not as good as madVR and its dynamic tonemapping has only just caught up with madVR (it's been lagging behind for months). madVR is still ahead on many aspects, if only its ability to "look into the future" with measurements file, which the Radiance Pro will never be able to do unless it buffers at least 1 or 2 minutes of content before playback, which even if it was possible (I don't think it has the necessary memory to do so) would be inconvenient to the user.
- Many people are "guessing" what the Envy is going to be. No one can tell you now (not even those who know more than the scarce information already shared) which processing power it has, or what feature it will have. It could have a very powerful nVidia GPU in it, or it could have a less powerful FPGA, such as the one in the Radiance Pro.
So my advice is:
If you're not in a hurry and can postpone a decision for a few weeks or months, wait until we know what the Envy brings to the table. I doubt that madshi would have made this announcement if more info wasn't forthcoming in the short term. It could be the best of both worlds, i.e. madVR's best processing and tonemapping in an easy to set-up box that accepts any source from one or more HDMI inputs. Or not.
If you are in a hurry and need/want to process different sources such as a UHD BD player or a Roku, and don't want the hassle of configuring a HTPC, keeping drivers and OS up to date, resolving conflicts, finding best settings, and have everything collapse without a warning because MS or nVidia decides to change something, then get a Radiance Pro (though it's not easy to program or set up, you should get its manual to see what I mean).
If you are in a hurry and are happy with processing only content that can be stored on a HTPC, and plan to take advantage of the "disc-less" aspect of a HTPC setup, then get a HTPC with at least an RTX 2060, preferably a 2080, and if you want some headroom, a 2080ti.
Just my .2 cents of course. :)
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Can't believe I forgot about this forum. The other one is watered down with useless chatter. Good to find a useful forum again, plus tired of those infractions. Probably on my last one.
The BS is so high on the other forum, that I don't even bother to respond to half of it.
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So, I'm going to take Dylan's situation and have my main device as a HTPC. I currently have a server and I rip all my movies to my server. I have close to 300 uhds and many more BDs as well as my fav TV shows on my server. I do use my nvidia shield from time to time, but that's not a must have currently. I want to mainly know, can I run video to my projector, then audio to my avr from my pc if I get a GPU with two hdmi inputs? Second question, can I get by with a i3 while running a rtx2080? I believe both are doable, just want to be 100% sure while I'm buying parts today
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Without any objective comparison of the processing and tonemapping quality from madVR and the Radiance Pro, you need to think about a few things to rule out options and find the best choice for you, because these two options don't have the same purpose:
- Do you want to be able to calibrate and process all your non-HTPC sources? If yes, that rules out the HTPC, as madVR on a HTPC can only process PC content.
- Are you ready to rip all your discs to hard drives, and invest in the additional cost? If not, a lot of the added value of the HTPC goes away. You can still use the HTPC with discs, but it's much less fun.
- The Radiance is a very good processor, but it doesn't have the processing power of a HTPC with a 1080ti or 2080 GPU (or better). Its processing is good but not as good as madVR and its dynamic tonemapping has only just caught up with madVR (it's been lagging behind for months). madVR is still ahead on many aspects, if only its ability to "look into the future" with measurements file, which the Radiance Pro will never be able to do unless it buffers at least 1 or 2 minutes of content before playback, which even if it was possible (I don't think it has the necessary memory to do so) would be inconvenient to the user.
- Many people are "guessing" what the Envy is going to be. No one can tell you now (not even those who know more than the scarce information already shared) which processing power it has, or what feature it will have. It could have a very powerful nVidia GPU in it, or it could have a less powerful FPGA, such as the one in the Radiance Pro.
So my advice is:
If you're not in a hurry and can postpone a decision for a few weeks or months, wait until we know what the Envy brings to the table. I doubt that madshi would have made this announcement if more info wasn't forthcoming in the short term. It could be the best of both worlds, i.e. madVR's best processing and tonemapping in an easy to set-up box that accepts any source from one or more HDMI inputs. Or not.
If you are in a hurry and need/want to process different sources such as a UHD BD player or a Roku, and don't want the hassle of configuring a HTPC, keeping drivers and OS up to date, resolving conflicts, finding best settings, and have everything collapse without a warning because MS or nVidia decides to change something, then get a Radiance Pro (though it's not easy to program or set up, you should get its manual to see what I mean).
If you are in a hurry and are happy with processing only content that can be stored on a HTPC, and plan to take advantage of the "disc-less" aspect of a HTPC setup, then get a HTPC with at least an RTX 2060, preferably a 2080, and if you want some headroom, a 2080ti.
Just my .2 cents of course. :)
I am considering building an HTPC with these parts:
- Grandia Series SST-GD09B, No PSU, ATX, Black, HTPC Case
- TUF B360M-E GAMING, Intel B360 Chipset, LGA 1151, HDMI, microATX Motherboard
- Core™ i5-8400 6-Core 2.8 - 4.0GHz Turbo, LGA 1151, 65W TDP, Retail Processor
- GeForce RTX™ 2070 XC BLACK EDITION GAMING, 1410 - 1620MHz, 8GB GDDR6, Graphics Card
- Overclocking, Single GPU, Optimal and Stable Performance
- 850 G3, 80 PLUS Gold 850W, ECO Mode, Fully Modular, ATX Power Supply
- 16GB HyperX Fury DDR4 2400MHz, CL15, Black, DIMM Memory
- 250GB MX500 2280, 560 / 510 MB/s, 3D NAND, SATA 6Gb/s, M.2 SSD
- 2TB BarraCuda ST2000DM006, 7200 RPM, SATA 6Gb/s NCQ, 64MB cache, 3.5-Inch HDD
- BDR-211UBK, BD 16x / DVD 16x / CD 40x, Ultra HD Blu-ray Burner, 5.25-Inch, Optical Drive
- Windows 10 Home 64-bit DVD OEM
- AntiVirus 2018 - 1 PC / 1 Year
- MK320, Wireless 2.4GHz USB, Black, Keyboard & Mouse
Any suggestions?
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Sorry but this is getting really off topic here :)
Maybe you should create a separate thread to discuss this?
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Sorry but this is getting really off topic here :)
Maybe you should create a separate thread to discuss this?
Like a " Build Your Own HTPC " thread !
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Sorry but this is getting really off topic here :)
Maybe you should create a separate thread to discuss this?
Done!
Thanks!
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The BS is so high on the other forum, that I don't even bother to respond to half of it.
I've been spending less time over there.
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I've been spending less time over there.
It's like an endless debate team try out over there some days.
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Anybody that is wanting the free spare lamp, had better be ordering before end of this month.
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Anybody that is wanting the free spare lamp, had better be ordering before end of this month.
To get the free lamp you have order by 3/31/19 and mail in the original projector UPC barcode from the box no later than 4/30/19. With them still working on filling pre-orders would you expect projectors ordered in the next 2 weeks to be delivered before 4/29?
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To get the free lamp you have order by 3/31/19 and mail in the original projector UPC barcode from the box no later than 4/30/19. With them still working on filling pre-orders would you expect projectors ordered in the next 2 weeks to be delivered before 4/29?
Yes and If not delivered by then, you would still get the free lamp, but only if ordered by end of March.
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New JVC firmware update available -
https://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/download/dla-nx9_dla-nx7_dla-nx5_dla-n7_dla-n5_dla-n11_dla-n8_dla-n6_dla-rs3000_dla-rs2000_dla-rs1000/
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I posed these questions on the other forum, but thought I'd do here as well, to pick the brains available here. I'm trying to grasp what these new Panasonic-specific "Color Profiles" bring to the table, as well as exactly what they are, and what they do.
Previous to the new JVC Firmware update, bringing the Panasonic specific color profiles, if you were using the UB820/UB9000, you had 2 main choices (actually more, if you include turning the HDR Optimizer On or Off, but they're not important relative to the questions I'm asking):
1. Output HDR from the Panasonic, set the JVC Color Profile to HDR, (or BT2020 if you want to use the filter), and Gamma to HDR(PQ).
The Tone-Mapping takes place in the JVC's Gamma adjustments in the HDR(PQ) curve, with a slider to tweak to a given screen/room/preference (and also the Panasonic when choosing the appropriate Display type for 350 or 500 nits, but let's also ignore that for the purposes of understanding the basics here).
2. Output SDR-BT2020 from the Panasonic, set the JVC Color Profile to HDR, (or BT2020 if you want to use the filter), and Gamma to 2.2.
The Tone-Mapping takes place in the Panasonic, and is based on seeing a plain Gamma of 2.2 in the Projector. The Projector supplies a Color Profile, but there is nothing "HDR-like" in its Gamma, since it's plain old 2.2
Now, we have new Panasonic-specific Color Profiles in the JVC's, but the Gamma is still being set to 2.2. As Mike pointed out in the other thread, the Panasonic will be doing the Tone-Mapping, and the JVC is still using it's 'regular' Gamma of 2.2, so not doing anything "HDR-like" at all.
The question then is how is this new approach different from Option 2 above, where the Panasonic is outputting SDR-BT2020? Doesn't it have to be doing this, since the JVC is still set to Gamma 2.2, as it has to be in that situation??
It has been my understanding that the Color Profile in the JVC is addressing color gamut and color space type issues (with WCG being one dimension of UHD content), while Gamma addresses the HDR component of UHD content. If that is the case, then it seems that the new Color Profiles only operate to impact color gamut and color space, and *not* the HDR component (which is a Gamma function).
Further, how are these new Color Profiles different from the current HDR (no filter) and BT2020 (filter in use)??
There may not be sufficient data or knowledge of these functions to provide an answer yet, but I would really like to understand how Tone-mapping is being handled in this new set-up, if the JVC is set to 2.2, whether or not the Panasonic outputting HDR or SDR, and if/how this is different from the SDR-2020 currently available with these Panasonic players.
Thanks!
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I posed these questions on the other forum, but thought I'd do here as well, to pick the brains available here. I'm trying to grasp what these new Panasonic-specific "Color Profiles" bring to the table, as well as exactly what they are, and what they do.
Previous to the new JVC Firmware update, bringing the Panasonic specific color profiles, if you were using the UB820/UB9000, you had 2 main choices (actually more, if you include turning the HDR Optimizer On or Off, but they're not important relative to the questions I'm asking):
1. Output HDR from the Panasonic, set the JVC Color Profile to HDR, (or BT2020 if you want to use the filter), and Gamma to HDR(PQ).
The Tone-Mapping takes place in the JVC's Gamma adjustments in the HDR(PQ) curve, with a slider to tweak to a given screen/room/preference (and also the Panasonic when choosing the appropriate Display type for 350 or 500 nits, but let's also ignore that for the purposes of understanding the basics here).
2. Output SDR-BT2020 from the Panasonic, set the JVC Color Profile to HDR, (or BT2020 if you want to use the filter), and Gamma to 2.2.
The Tone-Mapping takes place in the Panasonic, and is based on seeing a plain Gamma of 2.2 in the Projector. The Projector supplies a Color Profile, but there is nothing "HDR-like" in its Gamma, since it's plain old 2.2
Now, we have new Panasonic-specific Color Profiles in the JVC's, but the Gamma is still being set to 2.2. As Mike pointed out in the other thread, the Panasonic will be doing the Tone-Mapping, and the JVC is still using it's 'regular' Gamma of 2.2, so not doing anything "HDR-like" at all.
The question then is how is this new approach different from Option 2 above, where the Panasonic is outputting SDR-BT2020? Doesn't it have to be doing this, since the JVC is still set to Gamma 2.2, as it has to be in that situation??
It has been my understanding that the Color Profile in the JVC is addressing color gamut and color space type issues (with WCG being one dimension of UHD content), while Gamma addresses the HDR component of UHD content. If that is the case, then it seems that the new Color Profiles only operate to impact color gamut and color space, and *not* the HDR component (which is a Gamma function).
Further, how are these new Color Profiles different from the current HDR (no filter) and BT2020 (filter in use)??
There may not be sufficient data or knowledge of these functions to provide an answer yet, but I would really like to understand how Tone-mapping is being handled in this new set-up, if the JVC is set to 2.2, whether or not the Panasonic outputting HDR or SDR, and if/how this is different from the SDR-2020 currently available with these Panasonic players.
Thanks!
See attached for instructions.
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See attached for instructions.
Very interesting, Mike - thanks for the document.
docrog and I had a phone discussion about this earlier today, and in trying to understand this, we came up with the idea that somehow gamma adjustments were part of these new Color Profiles. On the surface, this almost seemed like an oxymoron, since in my conventional understanding, Color Profiles handled color gamut/color space issues, which was distinct from Gamma adjustments, which handled the HDR dimension to UHD content.
But here is a quote from the document you posted:
The HDR gamma data is reflected inside the above Projector Color Profiles. As a result, the HDR Gamma mode is not used.
So it appears we were on the right track.
Is anybody familiar with just what's going on here? How are gamma adjustments made inside a Color Profile?
Interesting stuff! Thanks again, Mike.
ETA:
Hopefully, this will also work properly with the 500 nit Display option on the UB-820 player as well. But it is worrisome that yet another document on this topic only references the UB-9000.
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Is anybody familiar with just what's going on here? How are gamma adjustments made inside a Color Profile?
You can specify a gamma curve (1.8 to 2.6, default 2.2) when you create a colour profile, along with the gamut primaries and white point coordinates. See attached.
Only a power gamma curve though, PQ is not selectable, at least not in the JVC Autocal software.
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You can specify a gamma curve (1.8 to 2.6, default 2.2) when you create a colour profile, along with the gamut primaries and white point coordinates. See attached.
Only a power gamma curve though, PQ is not selectable, at least not in the JVC Autocal software.
Very interesting, Manni - thanks!
Since apparently the new Color Profiles are implementing some type of HDR(PQ) Gamma Curve to handle HDR Tone-Mapping, this may represent a new development for these projectors? So even though it's not possible with JVC Autocal, they apparently have implemented it directly?
Have you checked to see if this limitation on Gamma selection is still present in the new version of Autocal they just released?
Curiouser and curiouser...
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Have you checked to see if this limitation on Gamma selection is still present in the new version of Autocal they just released?
That screenshot was from the new JVC Autocal released yesterday :)
There is no way to select PQ when creating a profile in the new version either.
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I'm a bit confused now but at least feel I'm in the right forum. So what is this gamma 2.2 within the Panasonic/JVC colorspace? I thought if you selected the HL or Basic Panasonic colorspace with the JVC you were done?
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I'd like to give a quick thanks to those of you that helped me find this new forum. Hopefully better than the AVS BS that we've had to put up with.:) Although this confirmation with the letters and question is getting old.
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I'd like to know what Mike meant in the instructions:
"The HDR gamma data is reflected inside the above Projector Color Profiles. As a result, the HDR Gamma mode is not used. Instead, Set “Color Temp.” to “6500K” (P. 48) and “Gamma” to “2.2” (P. 37)"....
so do we have to manually change settings within the user mode?
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Hi Clark,
I'm glad you found us :)
I can't help further with the UB820/UB9000 as I have neither, but I'm sure Mike will answer soon.
My understanding is that the player is simply tonemapping PQ HDR to gamma 2.2 and therefore expects a profile that reflects /enforces this to make sure that the result is correct, but I have no way to test this.
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I'd like to give a quick thanks to those of you that helped me find this new forum. Hopefully better than the AVS BS that we've had to put up with.:) Although this confirmation with the letters and question is getting old.
The confirmation will end after a few posts - don't worry.
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I'd like to give a quick thanks to those of you that helped me find this new forum. Hopefully better than the AVS BS that we've had to put up with.:) Although this confirmation with the letters and question is getting old.
The confirmation is to stop bots from posting things on the forum. It's a way to make sure your account is owned by a real human. Its only for the first handful of posts.
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The new firmware seems to have improved HDR and DI with HDR; Need to test more content to be sure but a quick test DI ON/OFF DI ON now brightness stays the same and the black floor drops, ie constrast increases. (before contrast did not increase) This is now working the same as what was demonstrated to me back in november.
Also auto-mapping seems to be OK now with regard to raising blacks as well, but I need to test more to be sure. One thing is the output sure seems overall brighter and with more contrast than before. I was able to reduce tone mapping level by one and still have a brighter mapping.
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Interesting! I'll have to check this out. I haven't used the auto-tonemapping feature much since I use madVR. But I'd like to see how the DI functionality changes before and after the update. I will check out some untouched HDR content on V2.0 and then do the update to see what difference it makes
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Great review on the RS2000 Dylan!
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Thanks! In the end, it got edited down a bit, but I think the general message I was trying to convey holds true. During fact checking, JVC told me they are aware of the DI issues and are currently working on a fix. So stay tuned. I hope we see a firmware update soon!
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It is hard to get all the info in, in the limited amount of space allowed.
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Thanks! In the end, it got edited down a bit, but I think the general message I was trying to convey holds true. During fact checking, JVC told me they are aware of the DI issues and are currently working on a fix. So stay tuned. I hope we see a firmware update soon!
Does JVC also acknowledge that the iris just doesn't clamp down as much as it use to on older models? We aren't getting anywhere near the 800K:1 spec on the RS2000. The iris behaves much more like a Sony iris, does not act very aggressively on scenes like ending credits, interstellar etc.
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I cannot speak on these new units, but having owned an RS4910 and now RS440; I really liked the fades I would get on the RS4910. It must have been clamping almost or completely down. Sometimes it really gave a dramatic effect especially in some sci-fi or horror movies. I don't get this effect on the RS440 and both are getting similar contrast ratios when at the same calibrated lumens.
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Does JVC also acknowledge that the iris just doesn't clamp down as much as it use to on older models? We aren't getting anywhere near the 800K:1 spec on the RS2000. The iris behaves much more like a Sony iris, does not act very aggressively on scenes like ending credits, interstellar etc.
No, I was just told they're aware and are looking into implementing a fix. To be fair, in its current state, it still works better than most of the dynamic contrast systems I've seen. We'll have to wait and see how the new firmware (when it comes) changes it's performance. I do agree that the older eshift models had a better DI implementation.
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I cannot speak on these new units, but having owned an RS4910 and now RS440; I really liked the fades I would get on the RS4910. It must have been clamping almost or completely down. Sometimes it really gave a dramatic effect especially in some sci-fi or horror movies. I don't get this effect on the RS440 and both are getting similar contrast ratios when at the same calibrated lumens.
I agree that the 4910 had the best fade to black (I had one too), but it also had the worst gamma and pumping artifacts (though without the yellowing bug of the current models, which will be solved). I guess JVC are trying to find a balance between fade to black and artifacts.
This is why I suggested they create an Auto 3 mode, with no gamma processing whatsoever when there is content on the screen, that would only kick in on black and would close the iris as much as possible on fade to black.
Problem is, this causes pumping (for example during credits) and I guess a lot of people have been complaining about pumping on credits (and a few freak scenes).
Still, especially with HDR, between getting highlights crushed in every single scene with gamma artifacts in auto2 and pumping on credits to get full fade to black on auto3, I'd select auto3.
To me the native contrast on the rs2000 is good enough to use manual most of the time. In a bat cave, it's the fade to black that hurts most after a few seconds due to the black floor being quite high as the iris remains half open with the current DI implementation (compared to what we used to get with the rs4910, or even with the rs500 that didn't close as much but closed much further than -15 in auto).
If JVC only corrects the yellowing bug but keeps the gamma artifacts as they are, the DI is still not usable to me in HDR (manual iris fully open) because it crushes too many highlights and you lose way too much detail to artificially increase perceived contrast. It is usable in SDR (iris -7 or less), with few if any gamma artifacts, but it also makes much less of a difference because it doesn't fully close the way it did in previous generations.
To be fair, this is exactly the same with previous models, at least in HDR iris fully open. It might be gone from a few test scenes, but it's still present if you look at about any scene with highlights such as spotlights, headlights, any kind of bright spot of well-defined highlight against a dark background (car headlights at the beginning of MI:Fallout, subs spotlights in The Meg, etc).
I think it's because they are trying to maximise the perceived contrast on star fields, as they know a lot of users and reviewers will put a picture in Interstellar or Star Trek to look at contrast, and it works very well with these because there is no highlights, just very bright small dots (stars). So with their gamma processing, the small white dots look very bright and the space looks very dark. Great.
But if you add bright objects with well-defined highlights (bright planets, as in some shots in 2001, headlights, car lights, spot lights, etc) it's far too aggressive and blooms everything. The highlights become a blob of white, and you lose so much detail that it's simply not an option if you care about picture quality to leave it on.
So hopefully JVC will 1) fix the yellowing bug 2) improve the gamma artifacts, which means make the iris significantly less aggressive in auto2, especially in HDR with iris fully open and 3) give users an option to get better fade to black if they are happy to pay the price for that, which is a bit more pumping.
So auto1 could be for those who want the most perceived contrast at the cost of anything else, auto2 for those who want a balanced approach and are happy with the benefit of a less aggressive DI at the cost of a few artifacts (minor blooming, bit of pumping) and auto3 for those who are happy with the contrast in manual and just want much better fade to black with no gamma processing at all on content, at the cost of more pumping on credits and a few freak scenes.
At the moment, they probably feel stuck between a rock and a hard place, which is why I suggested the auto 3 (fade to black only) option. I don't think they can make everyone happy with the two modes they currently have, especially in HDR.
I hope they have taken all this on board, and will not only fix the yellowing bug.
Luckily, the projector looks great with the DI disabled, so it's a good fallback position if you can't live with the DI.
Very much looking forward to the next firmware :)
PS: Mike, if JVC want a list of scenes with timecodes where the current DI implementation blooms highlights beyond what's acceptable, I'd be happy to provide it. They keep referring to the yellowing bug (that happens on credits or after a fade to black) but that's not the only issue with the current DI implementation, at least in HDR iris fully open. It's in every single scene with well-defined, significant highlights on dark background.
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Mani, please provide (email to me) and I will forward. Thank you.
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Mani, please provide (email to me) and I will forward. Thank you.
Thanks, will do. I'll try to provide screenshots as well from different sources and in different modes (HDR, HDR tonemapped to SDR) so they can see it's not the source or the calibration/tonemapping, but the dynamic iris itself causing this.
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No, I was just told they're aware and are looking into implementing a fix. To be fair, in its current state, it still works better than most of the dynamic contrast systems I've seen. We'll have to wait and see how the new firmware (when it comes) changes it's performance. I do agree that the older eshift models had a better DI implementation.
Dylan, great review of the JVC. Word counts suck, don't they? :)
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JVC videos explaining several of the features.
https://www.youtube.com/user/JVCAmerica/videos?view=0&sort=dd&shelf_id=1 (https://www.youtube.com/user/JVCAmerica/videos?view=0&sort=dd&shelf_id=1)
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I've seen a few posts now indicating a 2.04 firmware is out in the wild. I did see one report indicating better dynamic iris performance.
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Not yet ready for public download.
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I am no owner yet but would like the expert opinion on what I could get.
I have a dedicated home theater and my first ever projector is the JVC 4910 that I currently have for about 4 years.
I am wondering if I should jump to 4K with the new projectors that just came out.
1. My screen is a 235, Da-lite HD Pro 1.3
2. My viewing distance is about 13 feet
3. Will be moving to the Panasonic 820
Based on this what is you recommendation of 1. Keep the 4910 2. NX5 or 3. NX7.
I don’t want to go to NX7 if it really won’t help me much with my situation and also really don’t want to move up from 4910 if my conditions won’t show anything significant.
Any help here would be very much appreciated. Is there any missing info that I failed to provide?
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I guess it depends on what you plan on watching. If you plan on watching a lot of 4K content, then the N7 makes a lot of sense. It should be a nice step up over the RS4910. More brightness, sharpness, color capabilities and it natively supports HDR.
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I guess it depends on what you plan on watching. If you plan on watching a lot of 4K content, then the N7 makes a lot of sense. It should be a nice step up over the RS4910. More brightness, sharpness, color capabilities and it natively supports HDR.
Thanks Dylan for a quick reply. All I watch is movies and nothing else on in my theater. If I get a new JVC the. I would certainly go for UHD player 4K Apple TV etc. with that and my screen size and view distance do you think the NX5 would be sufficient? If the NX7 won’t do much for my situation then I don’t want to go that route. Thanks once again !
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I am no owner yet but would like the expert opinion on what I could get.
I have a dedicated home theater and my first ever projector is the JVC 4910 that I currently have for about 4 years.
I am wondering if I should jump to 4K with the new projectors that just came out.
1. My screen is a 235, Da-lite HD Pro 1.3
2. My viewing distance is about 13 feet
3. Will be moving to the Panasonic 820
Based on this what is you recommendation of 1. Keep the 4910 2. NX5 or 3. NX7.
I don’t want to go to NX7 if it really won’t help me much with my situation and also really don’t want to move up from 4910 if my conditions won’t show anything significant.
Any help here would be very much appreciated. Is there any missing info that I failed to provide?
What size is your screen? I also shot you an email.
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What size is your screen? I also shot you an email.
Sorry. I have a da-lite 235 screen HD Pro 1.3 which is 133”.
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Sorry. I have a da-lite 235 screen HD Pro 1.3 which is 133”.
Okay, the 16:9 area based on full width of your screen is 58.43SF. So with your current projector, with a new lamp was able to give you a max brightness around 22FL. A new RS1000/2000 would be able to give you a max brightness around 36FL. Based on your screen size and gain, I would look at the RS2000. You would be able to use the DCI P3 color filter and HDR tone mapping to get a superior image over the RS1000.
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Okay, the 16:9 area based on full width of your screen is 58.43SF. So with your current projector, with a new lamp was able to give you a max brightness around 22FL. A new RS1000/2000 would be able to give you a max brightness around 36FL. Based on your screen size and gain, I would look at the RS2000. You would be able to use the DCI P3 color filter and HDR tone mapping to get a superior image over the RS1000.
Thank you so much Mike. Learnt one more information today. I will contact you regarding purchase. Appreciate the help from this forum.
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Thank you so much Mike. Learnt one more information today. I will contact you regarding purchase. Appreciate the help from this forum.
You are welcome. Let me know if you have any other questions.
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Does anyone know if JVC is conservative with their projector calculator recommendations?
I have an NX-5 coming in tomorrow and at my throw distance it says I can get up to 100" screen in a 2.35:1 AR, at a 132" throw distance.
I was hoping to get a 110" screen for this projector (Stewart ST130 1.3g @ 110", 2:35:1 AR).
My RS420 and 520 had no problem filing up my 110" 16:9 screen.
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Hi Sparky,
The new models have 4K panels, so I wouldn’t expect more than the specs, that are given when using the whole panel, not just the UHD part of it.
So depending on whether you want to use UHD or 4K, I wouldn’t get a larger screen until you can see what you can fill with your new unit, especially if you need some amount of lens shift in both directions.
Also there is unit to unit variation, so the specs are probably on the safe side.
I guess you’ll see when you get your N5 in...
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I talked about this in my review. The throw ratio with consumer video content (HDTV and blu-ray) will actually be ~6.5% less on these new JVCs due to the native 4K (not UHD) panels being wider. So you'll always have black bars on the sides of the image. You'll need to zoom out just a bit more so those black bars spill over the sides of your screen.
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Now that the NX5 is up in my HT I can clearly see that I cannot go any larger than my 100" screen at my 133" throw distance, the 520 would give me about 110". I am really impressed with the overall size of these new models.
Manni, I will be doing what you do an have manual masking for my scope movies.
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I have a barand new JVC 3000 and have followed this thread, we have the same instruction booklet. Thanks, very intersting.
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First post on this forum, and thanks to Dylan am now a member of the RS2000 club! It replaces our much loved RS4910.
(copy paste from my post to the "other" forum)
There were no problems that I could spot during setup and installation, which was easy with the Chief mount. Convergence was only off by 1 pixel in red. I have a Panasonic UB820, and for the HDR profile I decided to first try Kris Deering's recommendation (from his NX9 review) of using the "double tone mapping" (HDR optimizer on + HDR gamma on the projector) as opposed to using the Panasonic color profile.
I won't be writing an in depth review now, but it clearly outperforms the RS4910 in brightness, color, detail, and motion. I haven't used it enough to notice any difference in contrast. Watched some HDR scenes from GotG 2, Wonder Woman, and The Greatest Showman. Everything looked far better than my attempts at UHD content on the 4910 with SDR2020 from the 820, custom gamma curves, and the HDFury Vertex. So nice to have a video chain that finally Just Works! SDR also looked fantastic, watching an episode of BBC's Frozen Planet.
Question regarding automatic switching of profiles based on HDR / SDR: if the projector is still on the HDR profile when shut down, should it automatically return to the SDR profile when powered back up given SDR content? I've only tested once, but this didn't happen (the projector was still in the HDR profile from the last session, despite receiving SDR content). I'm wondering if I need to keep my HDFury Vertex just for more reliable profile switching.
In any case, I'm incredibly pleased with the projector based on the limited time I've had with it so far! I feel like I need to re-watch all my UHDs now 8)
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There is a demo of the RS1000 at Wave Electronics in Scottsdale Arizona today until 4pm, if any of you are in that neck of the woods. Google them for an address / phone number / information.
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Just a heads up - the JVC free lamp deal ends on April 30th. Order one ( an RS1000 / 2000 / 3000 ) by 4 / 30 - get a free spare lamp.
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I have an RS1000, and I've been bothered with something for a couple weeks. There's something that has seemed like dirty screen effect: on some panning shots, I can see lines/waves/something like dirty screen effect. It's been somewhat confusing to me, since I didn't think LCOS suffered from this. I've tried looking at different sorts of shots to determine if my eyes are playing tricks on me, and there definitely seems to be something amiss. There seem to be at least three vertical bars around the center of the image that are weakly visible in some static shots but more noticeable in panning shots. Has anybody else seen this or heard of anything like this on one of these new JVCs?
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I have an RS1000, and I've been bothered with something for a couple weeks. There's something that has seemed like dirty screen effect: on some panning shots, I can see lines/waves/something like dirty screen effect. It's been somewhat confusing to me, since I didn't think LCOS suffered from this. I've tried looking at different sorts of shots to determine if my eyes are playing tricks on me, and there definitely seems to be something amiss. There seem to be at least three vertical bars around the center of the image that are weakly visible in some static shots but more noticeable in panning shots. Has anybody else seen this or heard of anything like this on one of these new JVCs?
What type of screen material ? I started to see that at one point on a Da Lite HCCV screen, and realized it was the screen material / texture.
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Also, what projector were you using before? I think it might be the added brightness that the RS1000 has showing you artifacts with your screen.
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I have an RS1000, and I've been bothered with something for a couple weeks. There's something that has seemed like dirty screen effect: on some panning shots, I can see lines/waves/something like dirty screen effect. It's been somewhat confusing to me, since I didn't think LCOS suffered from this. I've tried looking at different sorts of shots to determine if my eyes are playing tricks on me, and there definitely seems to be something amiss. There seem to be at least three vertical bars around the center of the image that are weakly visible in some static shots but more noticeable in panning shots. Has anybody else seen this or heard of anything like this on one of these new JVCs?
Make sure you disable CMD and motion enhance, set low latency to on and reset all the MPC settings to zero, just to rule out any processing artifact.
I certainly don’t see this on my rs2000 with my Carada BW material.
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We are down to the last two days for the free lamp. Must order by the 30th of this month to qualify for free lamp.
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Make sure you disable CMD and motion enhance, set low latency to on and reset all the MPC settings to zero, just to rule out any processing artifact.
I certainly don’t see this on my rs2000 with my Carada BW material.
Speaking of MPC settings, what's the general recommendation for the NX5/ NX7? I believe on the eshift models most preferred either all off or just a click or 2 (on enhance only).
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Speaking of MPC settings, what's the general recommendation for the NX5/ NX7? I believe on the eshift models most preferred either all off or just a click or 2 (on enhance only).
I'd recommend setting all to zero to begin with.
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I'd recommend setting all to zero to begin with.
Thanks Craig
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Thanks Craig
Send me an email at craig@avscience.com (craig@avscience.com) and I can send some set up tips.
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Last day for the JVC free lamp, for those on the fence.
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Send me an email at craig@avscience.com (craig@avscience.com) and I can send some set up tips.
Will do. thank you!
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What type of screen material ? I started to see that at one point on a Da Lite HCCV screen, and realized it was the screen material / texture.
I've played around with the lens shift to see if I noticed the same problems in the same places or if they moved with the lens shift. I figured if I saw the same problems in the same spots, that meant a problem with the screen, and if the problem areas moved with the lens shift, it meant a problem with part of the projected image itself. The problem areas did move with the lens shift, which tells me it's something with the projector, not the screen.
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Make sure you disable CMD and motion enhance, set low latency to on and reset all the MPC settings to zero, just to rule out any processing artifact.
I certainly don’t see this on my rs2000 with my Carada BW material.
I haven't tried these yet, but I will today, since as I wrote to Craig above, the problem does seem to be projector-related, not screen-related.
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One other problem I've noticed with my RS1000 that I haven't seen anybody mention anywhere:
There have been maybe 4-5 times where the blue/yellow elements of the image will en masse get shifted over an enormous amount, to where blue and/or yellow ghost image versions of things will appear something like a foot or more off to the side of where they should be. Anybody on here hear of this, see this, or have any idea what this might be? It has happened while watching Blu-Rays on a Blu-Ray player, while playing an Xbox One, and even during the D-ILA screen when the projector turns on, before it's sending an image from anything but the projector itself.
Whenever this has happened, I've shut off the projector and turned it back on, and every time it has fixed it, but still this is a bizarre thing to happen and to have to correct.
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Take a picture of what you're seeing next time it occurs and post it here. It's easier for use to diagnose if we can see what it looks like.
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Looks like there might be a possibility of some B-stock 1000's.
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Getting to play with one of these for a few days. I'm curious to see how the two new modes in the recent JVC firmware update look.
(https://i.imgur.com/LcPp7N2.jpg)
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Nice ! :)
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One other problem I've noticed with my RS1000 that I haven't seen anybody mention anywhere:
There have been maybe 4-5 times where the blue/yellow elements of the image will en masse get shifted over an enormous amount, to where blue and/or yellow ghost image versions of things will appear something like a foot or more off to the side of where they should be. Anybody on here hear of this, see this, or have any idea what this might be? It has happened while watching Blu-Rays on a Blu-Ray player, while playing an Xbox One, and even during the D-ILA screen when the projector turns on, before it's sending an image from anything but the projector itself.
Whenever this has happened, I've shut off the projector and turned it back on, and every time it has fixed it, but still this is a bizarre thing to happen and to have to correct.
I buyed a N5 two weeks ago. During the second movie played (Ultra HD Blu-ray) the screen immedately showed the following problems, as you con see on the attached photo: in the middle and on the left, there were blue bars over the entire screen which flashed like an equalizer. Also the menu on the beamer was distored and flashed.
The only solution was to shutdown the beamer, afterwards it worked again. This happend 3 times and then I've decided to bring it back. The dealer exchanged it with a new one. The old had firmware 2.04, the new had 1.2x and now i've upgraded the new to 2.01. So far, this problem did not re-appear luckily
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You are donwgradede your newer fw to old one? I think this was mistake, on some german board i readed on some issues with downrading firmware to JVC projector. This will be on service.
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I buyed a N5 two weeks ago. During the second movie played (Ultra HD Blu-ray) the screen immedately showed the following problems, as you con see on the attached photo: in the middle and on the left, there were blue bars over the entire screen which flashed like an equalizer. Also the menu on the beamer was distored and flashed.
The only solution was to shutdown the beamer, afterwards it worked again. This happend 3 times and then I've decided to bring it back. The dealer exchanged it with a new one. The old had firmware 2.04, the new had 1.2x and now i've upgraded the new to 2.01. So far, this problem did not re-appear luckily
JVC has a beta firmware (2.05) that should take care of the blue bar problem.
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JVC has a beta firmware (2.05) that should take care of the blue bar problem.
A couple of people on AVS Forum have reported that it did NOT fix the problem for them. What do you know about that?
I should point out, that since the problem is relatively infrequent, it could appear to be fixed when it really is not. I would have to go at least a week before I was sure that it was fixed.
There also may be some confusion. For me and some others, the problem is not just blue bars, but green bars and even (on a rare occasion) purple bars. Could that be a different problem?
Since applying the update also requires doing a factory reset (which would lose all my settings), I'm reluctant to do it until I'm fairly sure it will fix the problem.
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A couple of people on AVS Forum have reported that it did NOT fix the problem for them. What do you know about that?
I should point out, that since the problem is relatively infrequent, it could appear to be fixed when it really is not. I would have to go at least a week before I was sure that it was fixed.
There also may be some confusion. For me and some others, the problem is not just blue bars, but green bars and even (on a rare occasion) purple bars. Could that be a different problem?
Since applying the update also requires doing a factory reset (which would lose all my settings), I'm reluctant to do it until I'm fairly sure it will fix the problem.
Yes ver 2.05 does not fix the problem. N5 here that has green vertical lines ...still there after the 2.05 update ( including FULL reset) . Appeared to be OK initially but re appeared after 9 hrs use.
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Lets hope JVC get the 4K projectors fixed during the next generations, ill really like to get one, but this reminds me a bit of all the issues JVC had with the first 2 generations of the last chassis. I would blow a gasket if i had to waste my time and money on a shitshow like that one more time.
And the N5 i demoed looked surprisingly bad with factory settings, the Sony 270 slapped that one around big time out of the box.
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Lets hope JVC get the 4K projectors fixed during the next generations, ill really like to get one, but this reminds me a bit of all the issues JVC had with the first 2 generations of the last chassis. I would blow a gasket if i had to waste my time and money on a shitshow like that one more time.
And the N5 i demoed looked surprisingly bad with factory settings, the Sony 270 slapped that one around big time out of the box.
That must have been one messed up JVC. Don't get me wrong, I think the Sony has a great picture, but the NX5 easily outperforms the 295 (ootb settings or otherwise). I've had both and not one person preferred the Sony.
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Yes ver 2.05 does not fix the problem. N5 here that has green vertical lines ...still there after the 2.05 update ( including FULL reset) . Appeared to be OK initially but re appeared after 9 hrs use.
My exact experience. I have a replacement coming next week, but I'm still hopeful this is solved with a future firmware update.
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Hows JVC handeling all these replacements, do they cover instalation, and recalibration expenses, and how do they compensate owners for all the hazzle.? Have they done any callback to fix any of these issues, or like in the past just ignored it and hope it goes away by itself.?
Whats the general opinion about JVC QC and customer service these days.?
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Hows JVC handeling all these replacements, do they cover instalation, and recalibration expenses, and how do they compensate owners for all the hazzle.? Have they done any callback to fix any of these issues, or like in the past just ignored it and hope it goes away by itself.?
Whats the general opinion about JVC QC and customer service these days.?
JVC is aggressively pursuing the issue and the issues are not on every unit and materialize at different hours of use. Definately after any QC however they appear to be in the initial 100 hours or so. Covering recalibration on a display won't happen, it's personal preference. Additionally, I would never calibrate a display that didn't have a minimum 100 hours on it just for these reasons. Depending on the dealer you purchase from, they may help with the cost of the projector R&R.
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Hows JVC handeling all these replacements, do they cover instalation, and recalibration expenses, and how do they compensate owners for all the hazzle.? Have they done any callback to fix any of these issues, or like in the past just ignored it and hope it goes away by itself.?
Whats the general opinion about JVC QC and customer service these days.?
It's like this - I can get help at 10pm from our JVC rep if someone has an issue. Via a phone call or email ( 10 pm their time ). It's 2nd to none.
I can't even talk to someone at the California Dept. of Motor Vehicles on the phone - at any time of day or night !
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I've dealt with a replacement. JVC was fantastic in their handling of the situation. No, they didn't additionally compensate me in anyway for "the hassle" but then again, I wasn't expecting them to. I understand a first generation product may have issues and that the people designing and building these are human beings who can make mistakes. The people building them are also learning how to build them for the first time, as this is a totally different chassis and hardware to the eshift units they were building for years and years and became experts at. All I wanted was for JVC to quickly and professionally handle the situation and they did. There was no "please send it in to be checked first" monkey business. I said "this unit has a problem" and they agreed to replace it with no fuss. They paid for all shipping costs too which isn't something other manufacturer's do.
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Good to hear.
When I was going through swaps with the Epson LS10000, Epson was amazing. I had never seen anything like that with any product. All I did was state the issue to the rep on the phone who apologized. I would call early in the day and they would send out the replacement that day via 24 hours FedEx - would receive the unit the next day. This happened several times as each unit had rather poor uniformity - finally they just refunded me.
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It's like this - I can get help at 10pm from our JVC rep if someone has an issue. Via a phone call or email ( 10 pm their time ). It's 2nd to none.
I can't even talk to someone at the California Dept. of Motor Vehicles on the phone - at any time of day or night !
AVS needs to promote you to chief of marketing "Better support than the DMV!" ::)
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AVS needs to promote you to chief of marketing "Better support than the DMV!" ::)
The DMV doesn't care because the state of CA has a gun to your head - you have to buy what they are selling. Whether you want to or not.
JVC in comparison does care.
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Believe it or not, we will have all of our preorders filled and have RS2000's in stock next week. :)
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Believe it or not, we will have all of our preorders filled and have RS2000's in stock next week. :)
Wow...the the ship finally make it through Long Beach customs?
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Seems like it !
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Seems like it !
Hopefully I'll be getting an email from our mutual friend from Colorado soon :)
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JVC has new firmware available if anyone needs it - firmware version 2.07.
https://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/download/dla-nx9_dla-nx7_dla-nx5_dla-n7_dla-n5_dla-n11_dla-n8_dla-n6_dla-rs3000_dla-rs2000_dla-rs1000/ (https://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/download/dla-nx9_dla-nx7_dla-nx5_dla-n7_dla-n5_dla-n11_dla-n8_dla-n6_dla-rs3000_dla-rs2000_dla-rs1000/)
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Hopefully I'll be getting an email from our mutual friend from Colorado soon :)
Same here. :)
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Hi, everyone. I recently purchased the JVC NX7 projector (replacing my RS4810). Thanks to AVSMike I am also upgrading my screen from a old 100 inch Stewart Firehawk screen to a 120 inch G5 Firehawk. I have had a dedicated home theater for the last 17 years and have really enjoyed it but don't really know that much about the technical aspects. Would love to hear from you guys regarding initial setup of the projector. Thanks in advance. John
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Craig,
What does it fix?
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Hi, everyone. I recently purchased the JVC NX7 projector (replacing my RS4810). Thanks to AVSMike I am also upgrading my screen from a old 100 inch Stewart Firehawk screen to a 120 inch G5 Firehawk. I have had a dedicated home theater for the last 17 years and have really enjoyed it but don't really know that much about the technical aspects. Would love to hear from you guys regarding initial setup of the projector. Thanks in advance. John
Congrats! :) You’ll find recommended settings in the calibration thread (see my sig).
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Craig,
What does it fix?
" Here is the firmware 2.07 that should solve the vertical lines/flashing menus issue which a few projectors have experienced. "
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" Here is the firmware 2.07 that should solve the vertical lines/flashing menus issue which a few projectors have experienced. "
It also prevents from getting a garbled picture (wrong colorspace) when you send 4K 12bits 444 (RBG or YCC) and select manually for the colorspace setting in the JVC anything other than auto.
If you use 12bits, you should send YCC422 if at all possible to prevent an unnecessary chroma conversion because that’s the mode internally forced.
If you want/need RGB, 8bits is still recommended for now, especially on a HTPC for gaming/desktop use.
If you use “auto” for colorspace in the JVC when sending 12bits, V2.07 doesn’t change anything.
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I should be getting up my RS2000 before the weekend. I will be coming from a pretty decent sample VW695ES. The Sony does throw a great picture and if I had to nitpick it would be that I would like it to have a bit better native contrast, more coverage of P3, and I do notice some I think posterization when watching sports and there is some panning going on.
I think the RS2000 will be everything the Sony is, but will fix my nitpicking list above. I also heard from a few different people it should be a bit sharper which is also good.
It will be fed via a Lumagen Pro and one of the source devices is a Kalediscape Strato so I am sure it will throw a great image!
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Have an RS1000 and a Panasonic UB9000 here for me to evaluate, but the new fiber optic cable (50') that I installed ahead of time was defective. New cable arrives today and then I have to install in the wall. Looking forward to seeing this unit in my home. :)
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I should be getting up my RS2000 before the weekend. I will be coming from a pretty decent sample VW695ES. The Sony does throw a great picture and if I had to nitpick it would be that I would like it to have a bit better native contrast, more coverage of P3, and I do notice some I think posterization when watching sports and there is some panning going on.
I think the RS2000 will be everything the Sony is, but will fix my nitpicking list above. I also heard from a few different people it should be a bit sharper which is also good.
It will be fed via a Lumagen Pro and one of the source devices is a Kalediscape Strato so I am sure it will throw a great image!
Be sure to update us with your findings. I'd be very interested in hearing your thoughts between these two excellent projectors.
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Be sure to update us with your findings. I'd be very interested in hearing your thoughts between these two excellent projectors.
I got it all setup and ran through a few clips and I am very surprised at how much better it is. The contrast is excellent, the sharpness is excellent and it just seems more crisp to me than the Sony. I do a bit of gaming so was worried about the input lag since I sometimes use Mouse and KB and I didn't notice a difference so that was good.
Overall, I am very impressed. I also love how fast it switches formats vs the older models.
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I got it all setup and ran through a few clips and I am very surprised at how much better it is. The contrast is excellent, the sharpness is excellent and it just seems more crisp to me than the Sony. I do a bit of gaming so was worried about the input lag since I sometimes use Mouse and KB and I didn't notice a difference so that was good.
Overall, I am very impressed. I also love how fast it switches formats vs the older models.
I think the only projector that competes against the RS2000 is the RS1000. The 2000 beats the Sony in contrast, sharpness, HDR tone mapping and price.
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I'm getting a new RS1000. I'm looking for some setup tips please.
I'm in a complete light controlled room.
Carada BW 134" 16x9 screen
Pioneer Elite LX500 player
Denon x4200w AVR
Fiber HDMI Cable RUIPRO 4K60HZ HDR 40 feet
17' throw, ceiling mounted.
I'll update to v2.07 before I do anything else.
Also, should I run in Hi Lamp mode?
Thanks, I appreciate any help.
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Damn! I don't think I've ever seen anyone ask a question about projector setup whilst providing room information, screen type, size, aspect, AND equipment AND projector placement AND throw! ;)
What color and/or treatments do you have on your walls, ceiling and floor? ::) Seating distance?
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Damn! I don't think I've ever seen anyone ask a question about projector setup whilst providing room information, screen type, size, aspect, AND equipment AND projector placement AND throw! ;)
What color and/or treatments do you have on your walls, ceiling and floor? ::) Seating distance?
Well, seems like after reading the forums for years, I try to think ahead of what most would ask. Thanks...
I'll try to include a picture. Walls are dark brown, ceiling black, floor is medium brown carpet.
Seating distance eye to screen is 14', but now that I'm moving to 4K I will consider moving my one row of four seats closer?
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I wouldn't say your room has complete light control. You may be able to turn all the lights off but judging from your photos you don't have a way to control the light bouncing off your screen. The light hitting your screen will scatter, bounce off a wall/floor/ceiling and hit your screen again washing the image out to some degree. This is why soaking up stray/scattered light is important. Already in the photos you provide you can see light reflections on your walls. That would be my setup recommendation. Get some black velvet material and put it on all four surfaces around your screen at least a few feet in front of it.
I would also look into a different screen. Carada screens aren't opaque so if you don't have something behind your screen like black velvet, light will go through the screen, hit the wall behind it, bounce back and hit the screen again washing out the image a bit. Way back when I used a Carada screen I purchased black rubber spray and coated the back of the screen turning it opaque to help remove this issue. I was amazed at the difference this made.
I know you probably weren't expecting this much, but when you're using a projector of the RS1000's caliber, you're not going to get the most from it if you can't control ways the image can be washed out. The image will never look its best if you don't take the proper steps.
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If you're looking for something to use to soak up light, I use this in my theater. It works extremely well and is very cheap to some of the other alternatives out there:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EEJSG90/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EEJSG90/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
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I wouldn't say your room has complete light control. You may be able to turn all the lights off but judging from your photos you don't have a way to control the light bouncing off your screen. The light hitting your screen will scatter, bounce off a wall/floor/ceiling and hit your screen again washing the image out to some degree. This is why soaking up stray/scattered light is important. Already in the photos you provide you can see light reflections on your walls. That would be my setup recommendation. Get some black velvet material and put it on all four surfaces around your screen at least a few feet in front of it.
I would also look into a different screen. Carada screens aren't opaque so if you don't have something behind your screen like black velvet, light will go through the screen, hit the wall behind it, bounce back and hit the screen again washing out the image a bit. Way back when I used a Carada screen I purchased black rubber spray and coated the back of the screen turning it opaque to help remove this issue. I was amazed at the difference this made.
I know you probably weren't expecting this much, but when you're using a projector of the RS1000's caliber, you're not going to get the most from it if you can't control ways the image can be washed out. The image will never look its best if you don't take the proper steps.
Thanks! Yes, already started on the velvet treatment, makes a big difference! I originally draped my speakers and subwoofers and noticed how they just disappear. So doing the walls and ceiling...
I was hoping for some RS1000 OOTB setup tips. I sent a letter to Chad for a calibration, after about 100 hours, about 20 days or so.
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If you're looking for something to use to soak up light, I use this in my theater. It works extremely well and is very cheap to some of the other alternatives out there:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EEJSG90/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EEJSG90/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Thanks! I bought some at Joann Fabrics, I'll try this, I need more...
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Thanks! Yes, already started on the velvet treatment, makes a big difference! I originally draped my speakers and subwoofers and noticed how they just disappear. So doing the walls and ceiling...
I was hoping for some RS1000 OOTB setup tips. I sent a letter to Chad for a calibration, after about 100 hours, about 20 days or so.
OOTB using a User picture mode with the D6500/REC709 white balance and color gamut mode should yield the best results if you aren't calibrating. For gamma choose either a 2.2 or 2.4 preset mode. Turn the MPC settings to 0 except maybe the Enhance setting to 1 or 2. Turn CMD off if you want accurate looking motion and enable the dynamic iris choosing mode 2.
That's about it. There shouldn't be too many other settings that need to be adjusted or changed from their defaults.
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OOTB using a User picture mode with the D6500/REC709 white balance and color gamut mode should yield the best results if you aren't calibrating. For gamma choose either a 2.2 or 2.4 preset mode. Turn the MPC settings to 0 except maybe the Enhance setting to 1 or 2. Turn CMD off if you want accurate looking motion and enable the dynamic iris choosing mode 2.
That's about it. There shouldn't be too many other settings that need to be adjusted or changed from their defaults.
Thanks! This is what I will do.
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Just got the RS1000.
I can't mount it until I get the Chief mount tomorrow.
I set it on a table below my ceiling mounted Sony. It powered up fine. It came with firmware 2.04
I accessed the menu and did some focus, zoom etc.. I unplugged my Sony HDMI from the Denon AVR.
I plugged in a spare 25ft Redmere cable from the Denon to the RS1000. I get a good signal with the Denon off in pass-through mode, but as soon as I turn the Denon on I get no signal?
My Denon HDMI settings are all on Auto. Do you think once I mount it and hook up my Rupio Optic cable it will work? Or should I be trying something else? Seems weird it is working fine in pass-through?
Thanks,
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Just got the RS1000.
I can't mount it until I get the Chief mount tomorrow.
I set it on a table below my ceiling mounted Sony. It powered up fine. It came with firmware 2.04
I accessed the menu and did some focus, zoom etc.. I unplugged my Sony HDMI from the Denon AVR.
I plugged in a spare 25ft Redmere cable from the Denon to the RS1000. I get a good signal with the Denon off in pass-through mode, but as soon as I turn the Denon on I get no signal?
My Denon HDMI settings are all on Auto. Do you think once I mount it and hook up my Rupio Optic cable it will work? Or should I be trying something else? Seems weird it is working fine in pass-through?
Thanks,
Well, as it turns out, must be the 25' Redmere cable. I moved the projector and table right next to the Denon, plugged in a 3' 4k certified cable and it works fine.
I won't know until I mount it if my 40' Fiber optic RUIPRO cable will work.
Fingers crossed!
I'm pleased the projector works after shipping. This thing is a monster! compared to my Sony. I'm going to need help with lifting and mounting this one!
I updated to firmware 2.07, figured I'd get that out of the way before I mess with the settings.
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Well, as it turns out, must be the 25' Redmere cable. I moved the projector and table right next to the Denon, plugged in a 3' 4k certified cable and it works fine.
I won't know until I mount it if my 40' Fiber optic RUIPRO cable will work.
Fingers crossed!
I'm pleased the projector works after shipping. This thing is a monster! compared to my Sony. I'm going to need help with lifting and mounting this one!
I updated to firmware 2.07, figured I'd get that out of the way before I mess with the settings.
Is it one of the thin Redmere HDMI cables ? I found those not to work. Hopefully your Ruipro cable will work ( it should ).
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Is it one of the thin Redmere HDMI cables ? I found those not to work. Hopefully your Ruipro cable will work ( it should ).
No, the diameter is regular size. I've had some of those thin ones, but not longer than 3'.
Yes, hope the Ruipro works (if it doesn't I'll be asking what to get?). I've had it hooked up for almost a year, getting ready for a 4k projector, the last needed device in the chain.
Thanks,
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The fiber optic cable should work fine. HDMI seems to be the bane of all 4K projectors. Us projector owners typically need much longer cable runs and these fiber cables usually work well. I'm fearful of what HDMI 2.1 is going to do to us considering all the extra bandwidth the new standard requires.
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I just want to be sure (you know, measure twice cut once!). I'm hanging my RS1000 with the recommended Chief mount tomorrow.
First thing, bolt the plate to the RS1000. Then, slide the projector/plate assembly on the mount that's bolted to the ceiling, and tighten all six thumb screws. Then, I assume I should use a level on the Chief plate that's bolted to the RS1000, and level the RS1000/plate assembly with the mount adjustments. Then, turn on and make final motorized adjustments? I know this is simple stuff, but haven't done it in a long time.
Thanks,
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Finally going to join the RS2000 club sometime in the next couple of weeks.
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I just want to be sure (you know, measure twice cut once!). I'm hanging my RS1000 with the recommended Chief mount tomorrow.
First thing, bolt the plate to the RS1000. Then, slide the projector/plate assembly on the mount that's bolted to the ceiling, and tighten all six thumb screws. Then, I assume I should use a level on the Chief plate that's bolted to the RS1000, and level the RS1000/plate assembly with the mount adjustments. Then, turn on and make final motorized adjustments? I know this is simple stuff, but haven't done it in a long time.
Thanks,
You need to make sure the mount/projector is level with your screen, not necessarily the ground. You may find that if the screen wasn't hung perfectly level you'll need to play around with the mount to get the correct geometry on screen. I'm fortunate enough to have a utility room directly behind my theater so I can shelf mount all my projectors thus removing the headache of using a ceiling mount haha. It also means I don't have to worry as much about heat or noise coming from the projector in my theater.
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Finally going to join the RS2000 club sometime in the next couple of weeks.
Be sure to let us know your thoughts when you get it. I forget, what projector are you replacing?
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You need to make sure the mount/projector is level with your screen, not necessarily the ground. You may find that if the screen wasn't hung perfectly level you'll need to play around with the mount to get the correct geometry on screen. I'm fortunate enough to have a utility room directly behind my theater so I can shelf mount all my projectors thus removing the headache of using a ceiling mount haha. It also means I don't have to worry as much about heat or noise coming from the projector in my theater.
Okay, good tips! Thanks!
My screen is perfectly level in the Z and Y position. Which means, leveling with a level should work.
My utility room is behind my screen, so just the opposite.
Thanks,
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Be sure to let us know your thoughts when you get it. I forget, what projector are you replacing?
JVC X750R (RS500).
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Finally going to join the RS2000 club sometime in the next couple of weeks.
Looking forward to reading your impressions, as we moved up from the same model to the same model :)
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Looking forward to reading your impressions, as we moved up from the same model to the same model :)
It's a game of follow the leader :)
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That was the same model I upgraded from as well. Great minds upgrade alike. :)
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It's a game of follow the leader :)
RS4500 ! Tag, you're it ! ::)
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RS4500 ! Tag, you're it ! ::)
Out of my price range...I still have one kid in college I'm paying for :)
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Out of my price range...I still have one kid in college I'm paying for :)
I know the feeling. :)
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The Friday flash sale today should be a really good one. :)
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Maybe I should talk about this in another thread?
I have my RS1000 up and running now for about a week, I love it!
I would like to cover some of my walls with black velvet curtains. Are curtains an OK choice?
I would like to start at each side of the screen, bend at the corner and continue down the wall. My left wall is only 33", and I'd like to come back about 78" on my right wall. The velvet I'm using on my speakers is from JoAnn's "Royalty 3 Velvet". It really does the job! So I'm hoping to get curtains that are equally good with absorbing light.
Any ideas where to get some curtains?
Thanks,
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I've got black velvet curtains behind my screen ( and red velvet ones to the side ).
You might Google to see what's available currently.
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I've got black velvet curtains behind my screen ( and red velvet ones to the side ).
You might Google to see what's available currently.
Looks good Craig!
My sides are 90 degrees from the screen, and only 14" from the screen. I'm hoping the curtains will be better than the dark brown painted walls. The best would probably be velvet right on the wall, but hoping the curtains will be a big improvement.
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I have some really nice thick/heavy black velvet curtains, but the company is no longer in business. Mine are like the heavy velvet curtains you used to find in theaters back when they were made with fancy curtains hanging everywhere.
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I have some really nice thick/heavy black velvet curtains, but the company is no longer in business. Mine are like the heavy velvet curtains you used to find in theaters back when they were made with fancy curtains hanging everywhere.
I bet there's a lot of curtains like that laying around not being used, might be a sellers market for someone.
I ordered some from Amazon, but don't have high hopes.
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Maybe I should talk about this in another thread?
I have my RS1000 up and running now for about a week, I love it!
I would like to cover some of my walls with black velvet curtains. Are curtains an OK choice?
I would like to start at each side of the screen, bend at the corner and continue down the wall. My left wall is only 33", and I'd like to come back about 78" on my right wall. The velvet I'm using on my speakers is from JoAnn's "Royalty 3 Velvet". It really does the job! So I'm hoping to get curtains that are equally good with absorbing light.
Any ideas where to get some curtains?
Thanks,
I used black out curtains on each side of my screen for about 7 years. They made the image look like it was floating in darkness.
I finally painted the room with low LRV (Light Reflectance Value) black paint.
I took multiple measurements over several months. I used a light meter mounted on a tripod and used the legs to position meter for repeatability.
The meter readings are in Lux.
The readings with the black out curtains up:
Left wall 3.0 left of screen 1.2 ceiling 5.4 right of screen 1.1 right wall 3.8
The readings in the untreated room:
Left wall 3.3 left of screen 2.6 ceiling 5.6 right of screen 3.2 right wall 4.1
The readings in the painted room:
Left wall 0.1 left of screen 0.9 ceiling 0.3 right of screen 1.1 right wall 0.1
The results turned out well. The rear wall is mostly visual. The sides and ceiling is where you will get light reflected onto the screen. The ceiling provides most of the reflected light. My ceiling is 10' 6" and I had a 92" 16x9 screen with about 40" from the top of the screen to the ceiling. I have a 120" 16x9 now.
I currently have a HW45ES, I'd like to hear your thoughts about the differences between your old projector and your new one. I'm mostly interested in black levels and 1080p video.
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Maybe I should talk about this in another thread?
I have my RS1000 up and running now for about a week, I love it!
I would like to cover some of my walls with black velvet curtains. Are curtains an OK choice?
I would like to start at each side of the screen, bend at the corner and continue down the wall. My left wall is only 33", and I'd like to come back about 78" on my right wall. The velvet I'm using on my speakers is from JoAnn's "Royalty 3 Velvet". It really does the job! So I'm hoping to get curtains that are equally good with absorbing light.
Any ideas where to get some curtains?
Thanks,
I used black out curtains on each side of my screen for about 7 years. They made the image look like it was floating in darkness.
I finally painted the room with low LRV (Light Reflectance Value) black paint.
I took multiple measurements over several months. I used a light meter mounted on a tripod and used the legs to position meter for repeatability.
The meter readings are in Lux.
The readings with the black out curtains up:
Left wall 3.0 left of screen 1.2 ceiling 5.4 right of screen 1.1 right wall 3.8
The readings in the untreated room:
Left wall 3.3 left of screen 2.6 ceiling 5.6 right of screen 3.2 right wall 4.1
The readings in the painted room:
Left wall 0.1 left of screen 0.9 ceiling 0.3 right of screen 1.1 right wall 0.1
The results turned out well. The rear wall is mostly visual. The sides and ceiling is where you will get light reflected onto the screen. The ceiling provides most of the reflected light. My ceiling is 10' 6" and I had a 92" 16x9 screen with about 40" from the top of the screen to the ceiling. I have a 120" 16x9 now.
I currently have a HW45ES, I'd like to hear your thoughts about the differences between your old projector and your new one. I'm mostly interested in black levels and 1080p video.
Wow, if I'm reading your numbers right, it looks like the paint really did the trick? Do you remember what paint you used? I have flat black ceiling panels but would like to paint them if that paint is that good.
I thought my HW40ES was pretty good with my calibrated eeColor LUT box. I thought the black level and contrast was decent, but knew there was much room for improvement. Well, the RS1000 is in another league, and it should be (not even talking about 4K and HDR). I'm sure I'll get used to the big upgrade, but right now I think it's stunning! I can't wait to have Chad B. calibrate my system.
I'm hanging some black velvet curtains in the next few days to try and tweak some wall reflections.
On another note, Unfortunately, I found 4K/HDR handshake issues, probably another story for another thread, but I'll briefly explain if anyone cares to read on.
I have a Denon X4200W (2015 model year). My Pioneer Elite UDP-LX500 going through my x4200 syncs OK, but my Roku Ultra, and ATV 4K looses signal with 4K/HDR content. I have 175MBPS Ethernet speed so that is OK. I have three brands of certified 4K HDMI 3' cables to go from devices to X4200. I have a 30' Ruipo fiber optic from x4200 to RS1000. If I bypass the x4200 and just use the Ruipo 30' everything works great. I scrubbed the internet and forums, and have changed every imaginal x4200 settings with no luck. I think the HDMI board in the x4200 is weak. I ordered a new, now discontinued X4400H (half price) to see if it cures my problem, I will know tomorrow. If it does I will send the X4200 in for repair, three months left on the warranty. Then, make sure it works properly and sell it. I will keep the X4400H, I want to take advantage of the Audyssey app.
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Wow, if I'm reading your numbers right, it looks like the paint really did the trick? Do you remember what paint you used? I have flat black ceiling panels but would like to paint them if that paint is that good.
I thought my HW40ES was pretty good with my calibrated eeColor LUT box. I thought the black level and contrast was decent, but knew there was much room for improvement. Well, the RS1000 is in another league, and it should be (not even talking about 4K and HDR). I'm sure I'll get used to the big upgrade, but right now I think it's stunning! I can't wait to have Chad B. calibrate my system.
I'm hanging some black velvet curtains in the next few days to try and tweak some wall reflections.
On another note, Unfortunately, I found 4K/HDR handshake issues, probably another story for another thread, but I'll briefly explain if anyone cares to read on.
I have a Denon X4200W (2015 model year). My Pioneer Elite UDP-LX500 going through my x4200 syncs OK, but my Roku Ultra, and ATV 4K looses signal with 4K/HDR content. I have 175MBPS Ethernet speed so that is OK. I have three brands of certified 4K HDMI 3' cables to go from devices to X4200. I have a 30' Ruipo fiber optic from x4200 to RS1000. If I bypass the x4200 and just use the Ruipo 30' everything works great. I scrubbed the internet and forums, and have changed every imaginal x4200 settings with no luck. I think the HDMI board in the x4200 is weak. I ordered a new, now discontinued X4400H (half price) to see if it cures my problem, I will know tomorrow. If it does I will send the X4200 in for repair, three months left on the warranty. Then, make sure it works properly and sell it. I will keep the X4400H, I want to take advantage of the Audyssey app.
As we discussed on the phone, I have the same issue with an Onkyo RZ1100. I ended up trying an Atlona HD Base T. It works, but not a perfect solution.
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Wow, if I'm reading your numbers right, it looks like the paint really did the trick? Do you remember what paint you used? I have flat black ceiling panels but would like to paint them if that paint is that good.
I thought my HW40ES was pretty good with my calibrated eeColor LUT box. I thought the black level and contrast was decent, but knew there was much room for improvement. Well, the RS1000 is in another league, and it should be (not even talking about 4K and HDR). I'm sure I'll get used to the big upgrade, but right now I think it's stunning! I can't wait to have Chad B. calibrate my system.
I'm hanging some black velvet curtains in the next few days to try and tweak some wall reflections.
On another note, Unfortunately, I found 4K/HDR handshake issues, probably another story for another thread, but I'll briefly explain if anyone cares to read on.
I have a Denon X4200W (2015 model year). My Pioneer Elite UDP-LX500 going through my x4200 syncs OK, but my Roku Ultra, and ATV 4K looses signal with 4K/HDR content. I have 175MBPS Ethernet speed so that is OK. I have three brands of certified 4K HDMI 3' cables to go from devices to X4200. I have a 30' Ruipo fiber optic from x4200 to RS1000. If I bypass the x4200 and just use the Ruipo 30' everything works great. I scrubbed the internet and forums, and have changed every imaginal x4200 settings with no luck. I think the HDMI board in the x4200 is weak. I ordered a new, now discontinued X4400H (half price) to see if it cures my problem, I will know tomorrow. If it does I will send the X4200 in for repair, three months left on the warranty. Then, make sure it works properly and sell it. I will keep the X4400H, I want to take advantage of the Audyssey app.
Try replacing one of the 3' HDMI cables with a 6 footer...sometimes the shorter lengths screw up the clock cycle on the HDMI signal. It's along shot, but you never know.
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Try replacing one of the 3' HDMI cables with a 6 footer...sometimes the shorter lengths screw up the clock cycle on the HDMI signal. It's along shot, but you never know.
I had problems myself with 3 footers. I have all 6 foot HDMI interconnect cables now.
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Wow, if I'm reading your numbers right, it looks like the paint really did the trick? Do you remember what paint you used? I have flat black ceiling panels but would like to paint them if that paint is that good.
...
I'm hanging some black velvet curtains in the next few days to try and tweak some wall reflections.
...
I have a Sherwin-Williams near me with Benjamin Moore across the street. The Sherwin-Williams store had LRV for all of their paints. The Benjamin Moore store didn't know what is was talking about.
I used SW 6258 Tricorn Black which has an LRV of 2 or 3 depending on the card. That's about as low as it can get.
It's black pit now. The ceiling fan light that was there before only lights up the center of the room and you can't see anything at the walls and corners.
There is a Rosco paint that's popular but generally has to be ordered online and shipped.
I'd use the velvet were you can and paint what you must.
Some of the final readings were at the lower limit of the meter.
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As we discussed on the phone, I have the same issue with an Onkyo RZ1100. I ended up trying an Atlona HD Base T. It works, but not a perfect solution.
Hi Mike, thanks for the name of the device, I may have to go that route if nothing else works.
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I had problems myself with 3 footers. I have all 6 foot HDMI interconnect cables now.
Okay, just tried a 5-footer and a 6-footer. I have a 5-tier vertical rack so I had bought a few sizes. No change. I'm betting on the X4200 being bad, I'll report tomorrow.
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I have a Sherwin-Williams near me with Benjamin Moore across the street. The Sherwin-Williams store had LRV for all of their paints. The Benjamin Moore store didn't know what is was talking about.
I used SW 6258 Tricorn Black which has an LRV of 2 or 3 depending on the card. That's about as low as it can get.
It's black pit now. The ceiling fan light that was there before only lights up the center of the room and you can't see anything at the walls and corners.
There is a Rosco paint that's popular but generally has to be ordered online and shipped.
I'd use the velvet were you can and paint what you must.
Some of the final readings were at the lower limit of the meter.
Thanks, I appreciate the details!
Here's a picture of my ceiling. Do you think the SW 6258 Tricorn Black will make a difference?
I would probably paint the tiles and grids about 10' back from the screen.
The walls are being curtained.
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I have a Sherwin-Williams near me with Benjamin Moore across the street. The Sherwin-Williams store had LRV for all of their paints. The Benjamin Moore store didn't know what is was talking about.
I used SW 6258 Tricorn Black which has an LRV of 2 or 3 depending on the card. That's about as low as it can get.
It's black pit now. The ceiling fan light that was there before only lights up the center of the room and you can't see anything at the walls and corners.
There is a Rosco paint that's popular but generally has to be ordered online and shipped.
I'd use the velvet were you can and paint what you must.
Some of the final readings were at the lower limit of the meter.
I order the Roscoe Black Velour from B & H Photo. The stuff is crazy dark.
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I order the Roscoe Black Velour from B & H Photo. The stuff is crazy dark.
Nice! Do you happen to remember the dilution with water ratio you used! I would be painting overhead, so don't want it too thin or thick.
I ordered a gallon...
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I order the Roscoe Black Velour from B & H Photo. The stuff is crazy dark.
With as much time that I have spent on B&H, I never saw or thought of looking for paint! :)
Do they have black velour? :);)8)
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With as much time that I have spent on B&H, I never saw or thought of looking for paint! :)
Do they have black velour? :);)8)
Yes, but there is a lead time of possibly a couple of weeks, I assume they need to get it from the manufacturer. I ordered from Rose Brand, in stock, but more that B&H because of shipping.
I'm thinking of thinning it, not quite 1:1 and using a high quality brush, or should I try to roll it? (this is for my 2' x 4' black ceiling tiles and grids.) I think I'll try about 6' back, and go from there.
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I have a Sherwin-Williams near me with Benjamin Moore across the street. The Sherwin-Williams store had LRV for all of their paints. The Benjamin Moore store didn't know what is was talking about.
I used SW 6258 Tricorn Black which has an LRV of 2 or 3 depending on the card. That's about as low as it can get.
It's black pit now. The ceiling fan light that was there before only lights up the center of the room and you can't see anything at the walls and corners.
There is a Rosco paint that's popular but generally has to be ordered online and shipped.
I'd use the velvet were you can and paint what you must.
Some of the final readings were at the lower limit of the meter.
I bet David Vaughn could assist with the Benjamin More info if you needed a comparison.
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I have a Sherwin-Williams near me with Benjamin Moore across the street. The Sherwin-Williams store had LRV for all of their paints. The Benjamin Moore store didn't know what is was talking about.
I used SW 6258 Tricorn Black which has an LRV of 2 or 3 depending on the card. That's about as low as it can get.
It's black pit now. The ceiling fan light that was there before only lights up the center of the room and you can't see anything at the walls and corners.
There is a Rosco paint that's popular but generally has to be ordered online and shipped.
I'd use the velvet were you can and paint what you must.
Some of the final readings were at the lower limit of the meter.
I wish I had seen this earlier..yes, my day job is with Benjamin Moore (you can look me up on LinkedIn). I painted my ceiling with Benjamin Moore's Waterborne Ceiling Paint in black (12 ounces of black colorant). It's dead flat and works well, just don't touch it because it isn't made to be touched. Regardless, my front wall is done all in JoAnne's velvet (I don't remember what it's called), but it works great. Here's what the front of my room looks like. Here are the before and after pictures. (https://i.imgur.com/VFwSwxa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OMVS1Xi.jpg)
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By the way...the wine rack is gone and in its place is a small table that houses the Lego Millennium Falcon,--something my wife bought me for X-mass a couple of years ago. I'll take some recent pictures--I have a bunch of Star Wars Legos on display.
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Now you just need to throw some black carpeting over that white carpeting !!
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Now you just need to throw some black carpeting over that white carpeting !!
I keep working on my wife in that regard. I pushed my luck with the black ceiling and wall...I'd love to have a black pit--I'll wear her down eventually :)
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Okay, just tried a 5-footer and a 6-footer. I have a 5-tier vertical rack so I had bought a few sizes. No change. I'm betting on the X4200 being bad, I'll report tomorrow.
Update, I received an X4400H today. All 4K and HDR works great now with all devices and all cables. My X4200W is at fault. I'll be taking it in for repair.
Thanks everyone for taking the time to help me with ideas to try. I appreciate it!
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I bet David Vaughn could assist with the Benjamin More info if you needed a comparison.
Yes, I know. We covered that on the other forum.
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Now you just need to throw some black carpeting over that white carpeting !!
Build a box on one side of the room, attach one end of a roll of black carpet inside, roll it out watch the movie and roll it back when done! Simple! :) 8)
(hopefully some one will see the value of the rolled out carpet!)
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Hi Mike, thanks for the name of the device, I may have to go that route if nothing else works.
If I can help you with that, let me know. :)
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"I bet David Vaughn could assist with the Benjamin More info if you needed a comparison."
Yes, I know. We covered that on the other forum.
I should have qualified that a little further.
On the other forum there have been alot of good helpful people.
Mike, Craig, Seegs, Zombie, Jdsmoothie, Bigmounth, Manni, David Vaughn and others I can't remember right now. I never once thought of putting any of them in my IGNORE list. I had a lot of stupid/ignorant/obnoxious fanboys in IGNORE list (more than 60)!!! :) ;) 8)
The IGNORE list was my friend! :) :) :) :) :) :) ;) 8)
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I should have qualified that a little further.
On the other forum there have been alot of good helpful people.
Mike, Craig, Seegs, Zombie, Jdsmoothie, Bigmounth, Manni, David Vaughn and others I can't remember right now. I never once thought of putting any of them in my IGNORE list. I had a lot of stupid/ignorant/obnoxious fanboys in IGNORE list (more than 60)!!! :) ;) 8)
The IGNORE list was my friend! :) :) :) :) :) :) ;) 8)
I've had to ignore a few over the years as well ;)
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If I can help you with that, let me know. :)
Thanks Mike, I certainly will, appreciated.
On a similar matter, I'm anticipating Chad B. calibrating my system. I'm on a list, but have no idea when it will happen.
My Denon X4400H is working well with my 4K/HDR devices. I sent Chad B. an email asking a few questions in preparation for calibration, but didn't hear back, I'm sure he's very busy.
Maybe you or others could please give me advice.
I'm wondering if I should purchase something other than what I have before the calibration? What I mean, is maybe a Fury product? different UHD BluRay player? I purchased a Pioneer Elite UDP-LX500, I have SACD's. Should I also opt for the Panasonic UB9000, or because I'm getting a calibration the LX500 will be fine?
In the end I'm hoping for a good 4K/HDR experience without a lot of fiddling around with settings each time, maybe not possible?
I'm currently taking this forums advice on room treatments, velvet curtains, rosco velour black paint, etc...
Thanks,
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The UB9000 doesn't playback SACDs, so if that's important stick with the Pioneer. But the UB9000 is better suited for high quality HDR video due to its HDR Optimiser tool.
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The UB9000 doesn't playback SACDs, so if that's important stick with the Pioneer. But the UB9000 is better suited for high quality HDR video due to its HDR Optimiser tool.
Thanks Dylan, yes, I hemmed and hawed on which to buy, and I picked the LX500 knowing it would play SACD's while the UB9000 would not. At the time I didn't have a 4K projector, and didn't plan on getting one for at least a year. Well, that idea didn't last long, now I have an RS1000. So, I'm trying to understand if it's worth it to also get a UB9000. The LX500 does have an auto HDR optimizer, but, if the UB9000 is that much better?? I'll make a financial effort to get one.
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Thanks Dylan, yes, I hemmed and hawed on which to buy, and I picked the LX500 knowing it would play SACD's while the UB9000 would not. At the time I didn't have a 4K projector, and didn't plan on getting one for at least a year. Well, that idea didn't last long, now I have an RS1000. So, I'm trying to understand if it's worth it to also get a UB9000. The LX500 does have an auto HDR optimizer, but, if the UB9000 is that much better?? I'll make a financial effort to get one.
I'm currently slated to get an LX500 within the next week, so I'll have to post my thoughts. I think Kris Deering has already had the chance to play with both. From what I gather the UB9000 is nicer in this regard.
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I'm currently slated to get an LX500 within the next week, so I'll have to post my thoughts. I think Kris Deering has already had the chance to play with both. From what I gather the UB9000 is nicer in this regard.
Great! I'll be very anxious to here your thoughts, and Kris's.
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..., I have SACD's. ...
I'll be keeping my OPPO 103 until it dies or I die! :( :-\ :)
I had to get a replacement remote. The newer one lights up even when I cough! :)
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Thanks Dylan, yes, I hemmed and hawed on which to buy, and I picked the LX500 knowing it would play SACD's while the UB9000 would not. At the time I didn't have a 4K projector, and didn't plan on getting one for at least a year. Well, that idea didn't last long, now I have an RS1000. So, I'm trying to understand if it's worth it to also get a UB9000. The LX500 does have an auto HDR optimizer, but, if the UB9000 is that much better?? I'll make a financial effort to get one.
There is no really good UHD players that will do it all. The Panasonic UB9000 or other of panasonic players have the best tonemapping, but the rest is nothing to be proud of, scaling is medium to poor, croma handling sucks big time, and it have some backdoor enhancement that is not nice if you like a reference image.The LX500 is based on the same Mediatek chipset as the OPPO 203, it will do a clean 4K performance, scaling is nothing special, tonemapping not really usefull, and file playback is terible. OPPO 203 have the best file playback, and good 4K playback, as the Pioneer so scaling also nothing super.
The Xbox One s/X is most likely the best 4K player and scaler, lousy file playback, and no tonemapping options other than a standard convertion, and in cases you can not force 4:2:2 out.
I use the OPPO 103D and my lumagen for most movie discs, and upscale in the Lumagen, and the OPPO 203 for 4K discs.The Panasonics and Xbox is jist standing in the corner.
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There is no really good UHD players that will do it all. The Panasonic UB9000 or other of panasonic players have the best tonemapping, but the rest is nothing to be proud of, scaling is medium to poor, croma handling sucks big time, and it have some backdoor enhancement that is not nice if you like a reference image.The LX500 is based on the same Mediatek chipset as the OPPO 203, it will do a clean 4K performance, scaling is nothing special, tonemapping not really usefull, and file playback is terible. OPPO 203 have the best file playback, and good 4K playback, as the Pioneer so scaling also nothing super.
The Xbox One s/X is most likely the best 4K player and scaler, lousy file playback, and no tonemapping options other than a standard convertion, and in cases you can not force 4:2:2 out.
I use the OPPO 103D and my lumagen for most movie discs, and upscale in the Lumagen, and the OPPO 203 for 4K discs.The Panasonics and Xbox is jist standing in the corner.
There are of course better options available, but most people aren't willing to go the standalone video processor solution from either madVR or Lumagen. It's just a bit more involved than most people are willing to go. As far as UltraHD Blu-ray players go, the UB820 and UB9000 are the best standalone players currently available for video performance. Chroma resolution patterns indicate that the UB9000/820 is better than what the Oppo players (and the ones using the same chipset) currently offer. Scaling quality is about the same between the two, though the Panasonics offer more ways to adjust the picture with the built in sharpening tools.
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There are of course better options available, but most people aren't willing to go the standalone video processor solution from either madVR or Lumagen. It's just a bit more involved than most people are willing to go. As far as UltraHD Blu-ray players go, the UB820 and UB9000 are the best standalone players currently available for video performance. Chroma resolution patterns indicate that the UB9000/820 is better than what the Oppo players (and the ones using the same chipset) currently offer. Scaling quality is about the same between the two, though the Panasonics offer more ways to adjust the picture with the built in sharpening tools.
I owned Oppo's since their original player that I used going into an outboard scaler. I switched from the 203 to a Panasonic UB820 and quite honestly, haven't missed it one bit. Granted, I don't listen to SACD and DVD'A discs anymore, so it's purely a video player for me and it is one of the best I've ever owned since disc-based formats were launched. It's stable and outputs the correct signals.
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I owned Oppo's since their original player that I used going into an outboard scaler. I switched from the 203 to a Panasonic UB820 and quite honestly, haven't missed it one bit. Granted, I don't listen to SACD and DVD'A discs anymore, so it's purely a video player for me and it is one of the best I've ever owned since disc-based formats were launched. It's stable and outputs the correct signals.
The UB9000/820 does decode DSD, it just has to be in a DFF or DSF file container. So you'd have to rip your SACDs and either play them back locally via USB or over your home network. It's an extra step, but it's still possible to listen to your SACDs. I do think it's a shame they didn't add support for SACD on the UB9000 considering the cost.
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There are of course better options available, but most people aren't willing to go the standalone video processor solution from either madVR or Lumagen. It's just a bit more involved than most people are willing to go. As far as UltraHD Blu-ray players go, the UB820 and UB9000 are the best standalone players currently available for video performance. Chroma resolution patterns indicate that the UB9000/820 is better than what the Oppo players (and the ones using the same chipset) currently offer. Scaling quality is about the same between the two, though the Panasonics offer more ways to adjust the picture with the built in sharpening tools.
Then i guess you have looked at the chroma pattern like Panasonic ilustrate it, like a zone plate.They claim superior chroma handeling due to multitap processing, the problem is that the processor used have a very very bad chroma loss, Panasonic compensated that with a chroma sharpening/ enhancement, to make the patterns apear more right, but the good eye will notice a agressive chroma ringing introduced by the enhancement/ backdoor processing.
You can reduce chroma sharpness to -3 and remove most of the ringing, but you will loos some high frequence chroma response, the chroma issue apply to all formats.
They did also apply sharpness enhancement to the luma channel, except with UHD playback.That makes the Panasonic players apear more vibrant and punchy/ sharper than a reference player, and why the panasonic fainth chroma zone plate looks more detailed, its the chroma overshoot/ peaking, and not how its surposed to look.
A lot of people like that kind of look these days, but if your into reference image quality, and care about details/ acurate reproduction and calibration, the Panasonic players are not capable, no matter what model you chose, they all suffer from the same chipset limitation and backdoor processing.
If you want chroma multitap processing with no side effects the only solution i seen is the Xbox, it maintain perfect bandwidth respons and no funky enhancement distortion, and upscaling from DVD Blu Ray to 4K is better than all the OPPO, Panasonic, and Pioneer, it just have other shortcommings.
I guess that makes the OPPO the best compromise, and then figure out a alternative way to do the tonemapping, or do as many do, realise that it will never be perfect for projection and just use the Blu Ray edition that is mastered perfectly for that aplication, and go for the player with the best upscaling.
The OPPO and Pioneer/ Mediatek chipset offers perfect chroma handeling, the difference is the multitap processing making tests like the chroma zone plate look more smooth, thats the only test you can apply where the Panasonic apear to be better, the rest of the chroma tests it fails badly, and at a closer look at the zone plate you will also notice its to bright, due to the enhancement, you just dont see the ringing on the zone plate due to its design, for that the chroma multiburst, or other more hard edge patterns is better.
If you look the chroma multiburst pattern try keep a eye on the 2 vertical bars on the left, between them is a black line, the reference maintain separation between the red and blue bar, on the Panasonics you have a very agressive edge ringing right there, its presented on the rest of the pattern as well, even creating artifacts in the black areas of the pattern.
For experiments sake turn down the chroma sharpness to -6, then you see how the ringing disapear on most of the pattern, but is still slightly visible on the big vertical bars, that indicates there is still enhancement active, that you cant turn off, at the same time look at the hight frequence response on the right side of the pattern, and see how they are now not presented at all, basically just black squares where the 2:2 chroma should be, and the next medium bandwidth pattern is also heavy cut down.
The Lumagen processors did something like it years ago with the XS and belive you will see it if you activate game mode on still, introducing a chroma boost, wich also introduce ringing. But they reduced, or eliminated most of the chroma loss in the pipeline later on, so the boost/ enhancement was not needet. And that was way less ringing than the Panasonic introduce, in comparison ill say something looking like the panasonic set at -6, and then the high frequence would overshoot on the lumagen.
I did spend some time with a RS1000/N5 with a Panasonic UB9000 some time ago, and i would never want that combination in my setup.
If you dont notice it, or is not bothered with the agressive image look of the Panasonic and need the tonemapping it is the cheapest way of getting decent tonemapping, so to that point its personal if your willing to trade one thing for another, personally i think the best 4K monitors and projectors deserve better.
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Well, first I would like to thank everyone for all the information.
I've had three OPPO's, BDP-83, BDP-103, and UDP-203. I sold each one as I upgraded to the next model. My last one, the UDP-203, I thought had HDMI handshake issues so I returned it. I now know it was the fault of my Denon X4200W having a weak HDMI circuit board which is now being replaced. I wish I still had one of those OPPO's, if for nothing more than to play my SACD's.
Moving on to my latest crop of 4K Blu-Ray players. I have a Sony UBP-X800, Panasonic DMP-UB900, and Pioneer UDP-LX500. I've moved the X800 and UB900 into other rooms leaving the LX500 as my main unit in my projection home theater.
After reading some of the comments, I'm not overly excited about spending more on another player, at least not yet. I am very anxious though, to hear from Dylan and Kris if they would be so kind to compare their UB9000 to the LX500.
Thanks...
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I have the JVC 2000 and I was wondering if 3840x2160 was the maximum resolution or can the projector give out
4096x2160?
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I have the JVC 2000 and I was wondering if 3840x2160 was the maximum resolution or can the projector give out
4096x2160?
The panels are true 4K (4096 x 2160). The projector will accept and correctly display a true 4K image.
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The panels are true 4K (4096 x 2160). The projector will accept and correctly display a true 4K image.
What sources can result in the JVC's showing them in 4096x2160?
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What sources can result in the JVC's showing them in 4096x2160?
As far as I know, a Lumagen Radiance Pro or home theater pc outputting 4096 x 2160. I'm using a Lumagen to do that for scope movies with my Panamorph DCR lens.
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I have the JVC 2000 and I was wondering if 3840x2160 was the maximum resolution or can the projector give out
4096x2160?
All of the true native 4K projectors are actually 4096 x 2160. Those would be the JVC and Sony native 4K projectors.
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All of the true native 4K projectors are actually 4096 x 2160. Those would be the JVC and Sony native 4K projectors.
So, are there any ROKU/4k DVDs that would project at this resolution?
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So, are there any ROKU/4k DVDs that would project at this resolution?
No, but no need to. The Sony/JVC projector and DCR lens resizes the scope 3840 x 2160 to 4096 x 2160. It does this so that you are using the full width of the 17:9 panel and gain 7% light output. If you add a Lumagen, it will do the scaling for you and do a better job than the projector. On top of that, you get great HDR tone mapping.
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But you loos your 1:1 pixel mapping wich is a very powerfull thing if you care about the best possible image quality, and its a fairly odd scaling, nothing like a 1080 to 2160, wich is much more straight forward.
And what kind of effect do the extra lens have on the ansi contrast, wich JVC never had any to spare.? What you measure with and without the extra optics in the light path.?
I see the 7% adds up with about the extra amount of pixels, but whats the light loss in the DCR lens.?
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But you loos your 1:1 pixel mapping wich is a very powerfull thing if you care about the best possible image quality, and its a fairly odd scaling, nothing like a 1080 to 2160, wich is much more straight forward.
And what kind of effect do the extra lens have on the ansi contrast, wich JVC never had any to spare.? What you measure with and without the extra optics in the light path.?
I see the 7% adds up with about the extra amount of pixels, but whats the light loss in the DCR lens.?
When all is said and done, I measure an extra 38% light with the lens. Buy a DCR lens and test it yourself. As for 1:1 pixel mapping, everyone that has seen the lens in my theater says the image is better with the lens. Everyone.
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No, but no need to. The Sony/JVC projector and DCR lens resizes the scope 3840 x 2160 to 4096 x 2160. It does this so that you are using the full width of the 17:9 panel and gain 7% light output. If you add a Lumagen, it will do the scaling for you and do a better job than the projector. On top of that, you get great HDR tone mapping.
Thanks, Mike
Why does the JVC remote show the scope at 3840x2160 rather than 4096x2160?
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But you loos your 1:1 pixel mapping wich is a very powerfull thing if you care about the best possible image quality, and its a fairly odd scaling, nothing like a 1080 to 2160, wich is much more straight forward.
And what kind of effect do the extra lens have on the ansi contrast, wich JVC never had any to spare.? What you measure with and without the extra optics in the light path.?
I see the 7% adds up with about the extra amount of pixels, but whats the light loss in the DCR lens.?
People have compared and could not tell any loss of sharpness. Definitely a healthy bump in brightness, around 30% to 35% increase.
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When all is said and done, I measure an extra 38% light with the lens. Buy a DCR lens and test it yourself. As for 1:1 pixel mapping, everyone that has seen the lens in my theater says the image is better with the lens. Everyone.
"" DCR lens resizes the scope 3840 x 2160 to 4096 x 2160.""
I think you got confused we are talking about the UHD to 4K resolution step that is about 7% more pixels, and looking for the Specs on the DCR lenses there is no specs, just advertising material, so would be nice if someone with a professional aproach could help cover some of the basic facts.
No optical path goes without loosing light, and its hard to combine low light loss with good antireflective properties, so somewhere somehow a compromise is made, the question is how is that balanced in the DCR lenses.
It should be fairly simple for someone with decent calibration qualifications to take a ansi contrast measurement and get a with and without DCR lens, and maybe measure or get some specs of the transparency of the lens/ light loss true the optics.
Ill surely not buy a 6000+$ lens to find out, as i think thats what a forum comunity is all about, .. Helping enlightening each other to make the right choices based on objective facts, as your subjective opinion dont apply to everybody.
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People have compared and could not tell any loss of sharpness. Definitely a healthy bump in brightness, around 30% to 35% increase.
Some good screenshots of test material, like sharpness patterns would tell more than 1000 words.;)
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Some good screenshots of test material, like sharpness patterns would tell more than 1000 words.;)
Send Chris Deering a PM about it. He has compared and owns a DCR lens.
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Send Chris Deering a PM about it. He has compared and owns a DCR lens.
Seems we have DCR owners represented right here, and would be interesting to see if its realy worth the extra money on top of a JVC RS2000 or the money is better spend on a brighter projector.
Also what kind of screen size do you need before you have to compromise your 1:1 pixel mapping, and add scaling noise to gain more lightoutput. We just need some objective data instead of the subjective opinions.
Nobody here with calibration qualifications and a DCR lens on a JVC RS1000/RS2000?
And what do you guys then do when running a 16:9 movie, or any of the other like 1.85:1 formats ? Do you remove the lens or also scaling those and keep the vertical screen size.?
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Send Chris Deering a PM about it. He has compared and owns a DCR lens.
Kris Deering :)
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Seems we have DCR owners represented right here, and would be interesting to see if its realy worth the extra money on top of a JVC RS2000 or the money is better spend on a brighter projector.
Also what kind of screen size do you need before you have to compromise your 1:1 pixel mapping, and add scaling noise to gain more lightoutput. We just need some objective data instead of the subjective opinions.
Nobody here with calibration qualifications and a DCR lens on a JVC RS1000/RS2000?
And what do you guys then do when running a 16:9 movie, or any of the other like 1.85:1 formats ? Do you remove the lens or also scaling those and keep the vertical screen size.?
I remove the lens myself for 16:9.
I've posted a ton of photos, but getting good screenshots is difficult.
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Kris Deering :)
Wow, I think my run/walk today took more out of me than I thought. Heat index was 105 when I finished. I can't believe I spelled his name wrong, since he and I have been good friends for several years. :)
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Wow, I think my run/walk today took more out of me than I thought. Heat index was 105 when I finished. I can't believe I spelled his name wrong, since he and I have been good friends for several years. :)
It happens...I've known Kris since 2002...been to his house too :) He has an outstanding theater room too...best sounding room I've ever been in.
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I pointed you in the direction where you can get the answers you were asking. I do not know of anyone else that has a DCR lens and accurate enough meters to give you the answers you asked. You have stated your opinion on Craig's posts. Continued posting along those lines is not going to be productive to the thread, that is why I asked you to stop.
I do not recall where I read it, but I can tell you Kris did post that he could not see a loss in sharpness with the lens in place, when watching content. That does not mean Kris could not tell a difference when viewing test patterns.
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I had a visit from Chris Deutsch yesterday. He brought an RS1000 to demo. Just out of the box settings in the projector with a Panasonic UB9000, and the projector doing the HDR tone mapping. Looked outstanding on my Stewart Cima Neve screen. Great 4K projector for the money ! Had to set it up on a temporary stand, but everything worked out.
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Contrast looked pretty good. There were slightly elevated corners, but they weren't apparent most of the time.
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The picture looked as clean and sharp as the one I saw at Cedia last fall.
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Looks great Craig. I'm sorry I wasn't able to make it.
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Yeah i expect the more expensive model to be better honestly. That makes sense and it is rated double the contrast. But the way he said it was a HUGE difference made me question myself. 2000 dollars is a lot to me but listening to him makes me feel like I should’ve spent it anyway. This is all new to me so I’m doing the best to learn a lot in a short time building my theater. So far I’ve got the speakers, projector screen (http://wisepick.org/best-projector-screen/) and the room is almost finished. Just a million more pieces to the puzzle before I can pop in my first uhd disc and actually enjoy the fruits of all this labor!
Yeah! I can recollect those feelings when I was building my theater. It's like a child you're raising!
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Looks great Craig. I'm sorry I wasn't able to make it.
Hey Dave
I'm going to be at Craig's on Thursday for a calibration if you want to swing by. Not going out toward your neck of the woods or I'd stop by, only in Sacramento for the night then I head down to San Jose for two nights then back home.
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Hey Dave
I'm going to be at Craig's on Thursday for a calibration if you want to swing by. Not going out toward your neck of the woods or I'd stop by, only in Sacramento for the night then I head down to San Jose for two nights then back home.
:( Sadly, I won't be able to make it. We are in the middle of a bathroom remodel and the tile guy is supposed to be here on Thursday and I'm not sure what time he'll be finished working. Which way are you driving to San Jose? Highway 80 to 680 or are you going through Stockton/Tracy? If you go 80/680, you'll drive right by my house :)
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Since the JVC's are carrying through this year, we will have special CEDIA pricing. Call us for details. :)
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Since JVC is carrying through the RS1000, 2000, 3000 and 4500, I expect us to see more improvements to this line in the way of firmware. :) These projectors are really good right now, so any improvements added just makes them better. This is great for all the current owners as well as future owners.
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Looks like more B-stock may be becoming available. Contact us for details and pricing.
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These are excellent units. Anyone currently in the market with a dedicated space should definitely have these units high on their list.
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New features
Frame by frame DTM HDR Can also be set up for scene by scene.
12 bit to 18 bit
Anamorphic D (DCR owners can rejoice)
SpyderX support for autocal
More support for screen selection.
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Also MSRP on RS2000 is increasing by $1,000 on October 1st.
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This update is a pretty big deal. While it may not reach the same level of performance an outboard video processing solution from Lumagan or madVR can achieve, it should offer a level of performance acceptable to most average users. Epson and Sony will need to seriously step up their game if they want to continue to compete in the $3000+ price segment after everything JVC has put on the table with these 4K projectors. If they can address some of the odd quirks with the dynamic iris in a future firmware update, I'd be even happier.
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"Pretty Big Deal" doesn't come close to how big of news this is. If it works as well as I've been led to believe (I had a conversation with someone at JVC today), this is a massive upgrade for us who own the projector.
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"Pretty Big Deal" doesn't come close to how big of news this is. If it works as well as I've been led to believe (I had a conversation with someone at JVC today), this is a massive upgrade for us who own the projector.
I agree.
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"Pretty Big Deal" doesn't come close to how big of news this is. If it works as well as I've been led to believe (I had a conversation with someone at JVC today), this is a massive upgrade for us who own the projector.
We will see it in action next Thursday at Cedia and report back right here !
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I agree.
Mike, did JVC give any indication as to how long until the final firmware product will be released. Early October, Mid-October, Late-October, November?
Just curious how far along they are. If they are demoing now it seems like they could have a final release fairly soon.
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October is what I am hearing. :)
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Ok thanks.
If you are going to CEDIA, let us know how it looks. You should have a pretty good idea of the improvement since you currently have an RS3000 with the Lumagen processor doing frame by frame tone mapping already.
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Ok thanks.
If you are going to CEDIA, let us know how it looks. You should have a pretty good idea of the improvement since you currently have an RS3000 with the Lumagen processor doing frame by frame tone mapping already.
Will do. :) Our first meeting Thursday is with JVC.
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Will do. :) Our first meeting Thursday is with JVC.
Mike, any info from JVC as to them implementing the DTM to the Z1/RS4500 .
Thanks..
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Mike, any info from JVC as to them implementing the DTM to the Z1/RS4500 .
Thanks..
Still a work in progress. Nothing promised but they are trying to see if they can incorporate it. I think it will happen, but do not know for sure.
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I would imagine the video processing solutions are different on the lamp and laser units so porting over software isn't as straightforward as it seems. Also, going off the cine4home teardown, it looks like JVC went with a custom FPGA instead of an off the shelf locked in and limited processing solution. This is why they can add all these features so far after the projector has been released. An FPGA is like a blank CPU that can be coded to do what ever they want it to do as long as it's powerful enough to run everything they want it to do at once.
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Thats new features looks greate, but there are still some limitation. Right now its still on BETA and they locked on this features all what you can set, like color temperature and others.
Buts looks amazing, i hope thats we will have son more info how its works...
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Thats new features looks greate, but there are still some limitation. Right now its still on BETA and they locked on this features all what you can set, like color temperature and others.
Buts looks amazing, i hope thats we will have son more info how its works...
I am looking forward to seeing it next week at CEDIA. :)
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Hey fellas,
I'm currently trying to help a family member decide between the RS1000 and RS2000. Could someone help refresh my memory of about how much calibrated light output these achieve (especially with the P3 filter on the RS2000)?
RS1000 calibrated lumens =
RS2000 calibrated lumens w/ P3 filter =
RS2000 calibrated lumens w/o P3 filter =
My idea is to basically recommend the RS2000 if there's enough to get him 30ftL+ on his screen w/ P3 filter, else I'll recommend the RS1000.
His screen is a 16x9 123" diag ST130 (1.3 gain) = 45sqft (fully light controlled w/ dark walls), so I'm calculating he would need around 1100 calibrated lumens for good HDR.
Also, since he's fully light controlled w/ dark walls, I'm assuming he would be able to discern/enjoy the contrast difference.
What do y'all think? Is the RS2000 the way to go in this instance? Any other features to consider? TIA!!
EDIT: He bought a B-stock RS2000 from AVS! We'll start with Natural out-of-the-box with an Oppo 203 and Shield TV. I do have a Spyder5, so I'm starting to read Manni's JVC AutoCal thread now.
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I got to see a demo of the new frame adaptive HDR tonemapping on the RS3000 at CEDIA today. It looks very impressive from the few clips JVC was showing off. We'll have to see how well it performs against some other tone mapping solutions out there, but I don't think the difference will be astronomical.
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I got to see a demo of the new frame adaptive HDR tonemapping on the RS3000 at CEDIA today. It looks very impressive from the few clips JVC was showing off. We'll have to see how well it performs against some other tone mapping solutions out there, but I don't think the difference will be astronomical.
Take a look at Craig's pictures showing the difference. On the tough scenes, pretty big difference.
https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=2222.msg13911;topicseen#new (https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=2222.msg13911;topicseen#new)
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Here is a JVC video on the new HDR tone mapping.
https://www.ravepubs.com/rave-video/cedia-2019-jvc-announces-dila-firmware-update-with-frame-adapt-hdr-technology/ (https://www.ravepubs.com/rave-video/cedia-2019-jvc-announces-dila-firmware-update-with-frame-adapt-hdr-technology/)
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Here is a JVC video on the new HDR tone mapping.
https://www.ravepubs.com/rave-video/cedia-2019-jvc-announces-dila-firmware-update-with-frame-adapt-hdr-technology/ (https://www.ravepubs.com/rave-video/cedia-2019-jvc-announces-dila-firmware-update-with-frame-adapt-hdr-technology/)
Sounds nice! I'm having Chad B. out to calibrate my RS1000 on Oct. 1st. I think it would be nice to have this before calibration? If I can't get the firmware before Oct. 1st, I'm hoping when I do, it won't effect my calibration?
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Sounds nice! I'm having Chad B. out to calibrate my RS1000 on Oct. 1st. I think it would be nice to have this before calibration? If I can't get the firmware before Oct. 1st, I'm hoping when I do, it won't effect my calibration?
It shouldn't effect your calibration, if you switch from Chad's fixed HDR tone mapping curve to this auto tone mapping. Ask Chad to tell you which setting to change when the new firmware comes out, which won't be until November 1st most likely.
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It shouldn't effect your calibration, if you switch from Chad's fixed HDR tone mapping curve to this auto tone mapping. Ask Chad to tell you which setting to change when the new firmware comes out, which won't be until November 1st most likely.
Thanks Craig, I'll ask Chad
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This is my first post here (at least in a long time) so I hope I have it in the right place.
I got my first projector about 3.5 yrs ago and invested in a JVC DLA RS500U and a Stewart 118" Studio Tek 100 for my theater room, which I bought from AV Science. I am now seriously considering upgrading it to a JVC DLA RS2000/NX7. I was hoping I could get a few questions answered before I decided for sure to place the order. And by the way, I am not a real technical person on this stuff. I can install it, align it, focus it, tweak some image settings to my liking, download a firmware update now and then (hopefully), and that's about it. I just want the best image quality I can get for under $10K that I can enjoy without needing to be overly technical.
I have been happy with the RS500, but some things marketed with the RS2000 really appeal to me, such as; 1) native 4K and no pixel shifting, 2) increased brightness, 3) low latency mode, 4) auto tone mapping, and 5) auto calibration. Those things sound like better image quality and a more enjoyable overall experience. That's why I am interested.
We use our theater room about 75% for watching 4K movie content, either streamed on Roku or via an Oppo 205 disc player. We use it about 25% for watching sports and cable TV material.
I understand some people have opined that the upscaling capability of the RS2000 is less than optimal, which I think means watching sports and with native 1080i/720p cable resolution would not be good and may even be a step backwards from my RS500U. Can that be corrected or improved just by disabling the JVC upscaler and using the upscaler in my Yamaha Aventage RX A3050 AVR? I would appreciate opinions on that.
Secondly, the RS500U has a marketed 120,000:1 contrast ratio vs 80,000:1 for the RS2000. Is that a noticeable step backwards in contrast, or is it overcome with the other improved features?
Third, I have read of problems with streaking, blooming and non-functioning auto cal feature. Have those issues been resolved with firmware updates?
And lastly, will firmware updates only download with Microsoft PC's? But not with Mac?
Sorry for the amateur questions!
Thanks for any help you can give me.
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This is my first post here (at least in a long time) so I hope I have it in the right place.
I got my first projector about 3.5 yrs ago and invested in a JVC DLA RS500U and a Stewart 118" Studio Tek 100 for my theater room, which I bought from AV Science. I am now seriously considering upgrading it to a JVC DLA RS2000/NX7. I was hoping I could get a few questions answered before I decided for sure to place the order. And by the way, I am not a real technical person on this stuff. I can install it, align it, focus it, tweak some image settings to my liking, download a firmware update now and then (hopefully), and that's about it. I just want the best image quality I can get for under $10K that I can enjoy without needing to be overly technical.
I have been happy with the RS500, but some things marketed with the RS2000 really appeal to me, such as; 1) native 4K and no pixel shifting, 2) increased brightness, 3) low latency mode, 4) auto tone mapping, and 5) auto calibration. Those things sound like better image quality and a more enjoyable overall experience. That's why I am interested.
We use our theater room about 75% for watching 4K movie content, either streamed on Roku or via an Oppo 205 disc player. We use it about 25% for watching sports and cable TV material.
I understand some people have opined that the upscaling capability of the RS2000 is less than optimal, which I think means watching sports and with native 1080i/720p cable resolution would not be good and may even be a step backwards from my RS500U. Can that be corrected or improved just by disabling the JVC upscaler and using the upscaler in my Yamaha Aventage RX A3050 AVR? I would appreciate opinions on that.
Secondly, the RS500U has a marketed 120,000:1 contrast ratio vs 80,000:1 for the RS2000. Is that a noticeable step backwards in contrast, or is it overcome with the other improved features?
Third, I have read of problems with streaking, blooming and non-functioning auto cal feature. Have those issues been resolved with firmware updates?
And lastly, will firmware updates only download with Microsoft PC's? But not with Mac?
Sorry for the amateur questions!
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Scaling on the 2000 is pretty good. I would say the same as the 500.
The 500 has better contrast, but not double, so it is only a subtle difference.
Streaking and blooming is not worse on the newer models.
As long as the USB stick is formatted fat32, you can download onto the USB sick from a mac.
Added
I sent you a PM. :)
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I haven't gone through this whole thread but was wondering if anyone would have any input on how the 3d on these units perform.
Thanks,
Curt
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I haven't gone through this whole thread but was wondering if anyone would have any input on how the 3d on these units perform.
Thanks,
Curt
3D on the 1000, 2000 and 3000 is good. Really did not give up anything from the old models.
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To make a long story short, I was forced to sell my RS2000 earlier this summer to help pay for an unexpected roof replacement. Luckily, after talking to JVC at CEDIA, they were able to hook me up with a new unit before the October price increase happens. I don't know if my unit is an outlier or if some production line changes/tweaks have occurred to these units, but my replacement unit is measuring in at 32,650:1 native on/off contrast with the iris fully open. Granted, this is close to minimum zoom on the lens due to where I have the projector placed, but this is a pretty big step up over the original unit I previously had. It's about 10% more contrast. For context, my original RS2000 was from the first batch to arrive in the US and this new unit was manufactured in June this year according to the serial number. So maybe a few tweaks have been made to the light engine or I just got luck of the draw? Either way, this is one step closer to the e-shift models in contrast performance.
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Sounds like you got a great unit. :)
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CEDIA special ends today for the 1000 and 2000.
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I received my RS2000 in great shape last Friday and swapped it out with my RS500U the same day. I am so impressed! I adjusted the lens shift and zoom and tweaked a few minor picture settings to suit, and it really does a sweet job. Network/cable TV for NFL games leaves a little (or a lot) to be desired. But I bought it for movies and streaming series. I can still do football on my old, faithful Panasonic plasmas. The 4K discs on the Oppo 205 as well as 4K on the streaming services make for big smiles. Thanks AVSMike. It was a very nice improvement to our theater room.
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Tom, enjoy the protector!
I had a screening night for Spiderman Far From Home today with some friends. The RS2000 looked marvelous with this movie. The 4K Blu-ray looks amazing too. The sound track on this movie is very good. Great surround effects and b tons of bass.
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Yes, throws a great image. :) Can't wait to see how people like JVC's new DTM once available.
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I received my RS2000 in great shape last Friday and swapped it out with my RS500U the same day. I am so impressed! I adjusted the lens shift and zoom and tweaked a few minor picture settings to suit, and it really does a sweet job. Network/cable TV for NFL games leaves a little (or a lot) to be desired. But I bought it for movies and streaming series. I can still do football on my old, faithful Panasonic plasmas. The 4K discs on the Oppo 205 as well as 4K on the streaming services make for big smiles. Thanks AVSMike. It was a very nice improvement to our theater room.
I'm hearing this from a lot of folks upgrading to the RS2000. Enjoy your new projector !
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From beta testing, I am hearing that the new DTM is really good. :)
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I was looking at my RS2000 firmware to see if it was up to date. I have 2.07 running and JVC support sight says 2.08 is most current. Web sight also offers Projector Calibration Software.
On projector calibration software, it lists requirements to include PC with MS Windows 10, 8 or 7.
On firmware update, it just says PC capable of downloading the zip file to a 1GB+ USB drive with FAT32 format.
I have a house full of Apple computers and not a single MS product to be found.
I think I read this as saying 1) No MS Windows, no calibration software download is possible, and 2) However, using a "capable PC" to download firmware to a USB FAT32 drive is perfectly OK and will work (so would a MAC be ok for this?), or is a "capable PC" meant to indicate it must also have a Windows OS?
Before I mess something up and lock up my projector, how should I interpret?
My preference would be to simply plug an ethernet line into the projector and do it via a live download. But absent that option, download the file on my MAC desktop, transfer it to the USB drive, plug USB into RS2000, follow directions and presto! Is that possible?
Thanks.
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I was looking at my RS2000 firmware to see if it was up to date. I have 2.07 running and JVC support sight says 2.08 is most current. Web sight also offers Projector Calibration Software.
On projector calibration software, it lists requirements to include PC with MS Windows 10, 8 or 7.
On firmware update, it just says PC capable of downloading the zip file to a 1GB+ USB drive with FAT32 format.
I have a house full of Apple computers and not a single MS product to be found.
I think I read this as saying 1) No MS Windows, no calibration software download is possible, and 2) However, using a "capable PC" to download firmware to a USB FAT32 drive is perfectly OK and will work (so would a MAC be ok for this?), or is a "capable PC" meant to indicate it must also have a Windows OS?
Before I mess something up and lock up my projector, how should I interpret?
My preference would be to simply plug an ethernet line into the projector and do it via a live download. But absent that option, download the file on my MAC desktop, transfer it to the USB drive, plug USB into RS2000, follow directions and presto! Is that possible?
Thanks.
The calibration software has only been developed for Windows, therefore macOS can't be used to run the auto-calibration software. It is possible to run the program in Boot Camp within macOS. Boot Camp is emulation software that allows you to run an instance of Windows within macOS. See here for more information:
https://support.apple.com/boot-camp (https://support.apple.com/boot-camp)
However, for a firmware update, you can use macOS. The one requirement is that the USB drive has to be formatted to FAT32. Here is a guide on how to do that:
https://www.admfactory.com/how-to-format-usb-flash-drive-to-fat32-in-mac-os/ (https://www.admfactory.com/how-to-format-usb-flash-drive-to-fat32-in-mac-os/)
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Got it. Very helpful. Thanks Dylan.
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I'm so glad they made it easy to update firmware with the USB port ! :)
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How to update your firmware ( if you haven't done it before ) -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1AMPsl3HidE&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1AMPsl3HidE&feature=youtu.be)
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Thanks Craig. That is helpful.
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Thanks Craig. That is helpful.
Check here tomorrow - https://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/download/dla-nx9_dla-nx7_dla-nx5_dla-n7_dla-n5_dla-n11_dla-n8_dla-n6_dla-rs3000_dla-rs2000_dla-rs1000/ (https://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/download/dla-nx9_dla-nx7_dla-nx5_dla-n7_dla-n5_dla-n11_dla-n8_dla-n6_dla-rs3000_dla-rs2000_dla-rs1000/)
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Check here tomorrow - https://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/download/dla-nx9_dla-nx7_dla-nx5_dla-n7_dla-n5_dla-n11_dla-n8_dla-n6_dla-rs3000_dla-rs2000_dla-rs1000/ (https://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/download/dla-nx9_dla-nx7_dla-nx5_dla-n7_dla-n5_dla-n11_dla-n8_dla-n6_dla-rs3000_dla-rs2000_dla-rs1000/)
It's live as to 7:39pm PST tonight...just downloaded it and will install it shortly.
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This may be a silly, newb question, but....
I am having an issue and I am not sure what to think about it. Things are working great in 4K HDR at 30Hz or 24Hz. But setting Roku to 4K HDR at 60Hz is a no go. Oppo 205 is no go set to HDR at 60Hz as well. Is the RS2000 spec'd for HDR at 60Hz? Is there a setting someplace I am missing? A weak link messing something up? Cables??
Signal- 370mbps+ via ethernet
Streaming device- Roku Ultra
Disc player- Oppo 205
To AVR with high speed AudioQuest HDMI
AVR- Yamaha Aventage RX-A3050
To RS2000 with high speed MonoPrice Cabernet HDMI
Thanks.
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This may be a silly, newb question, but....
I am having an issue and I am not sure what to think about it. Things are working great in 4K HDR at 30Hz or 24Hz. But setting Roku to 4K HDR at 60Hz is a no go. Oppo 205 is no go set to HDR at 60Hz as well. Is the RS2000 spec'd for HDR at 60Hz? Is there a setting someplace I am missing? A weak link messing something up? Cables??
Signal- 370mbps+ via ethernet
Streaming device- Roku Ultra
Disc player- Oppo 205
To AVR with high speed AudioQuest HDMI
AVR- Yamaha Aventage RX-A3050
To RS2000 with high speed MonoPrice Cabernet HDMI
Thanks.
Most likely your cables are the culprit.
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This may be a silly, newb question, but....
I am having an issue and I am not sure what to think about it. Things are working great in 4K HDR at 30Hz or 24Hz. But setting Roku to 4K HDR at 60Hz is a no go. Oppo 205 is no go set to HDR at 60Hz as well. Is the RS2000 spec'd for HDR at 60Hz? Is there a setting someplace I am missing? A weak link messing something up? Cables??
Signal- 370mbps+ via ethernet
Streaming device- Roku Ultra
Disc player- Oppo 205
To AVR with high speed AudioQuest HDMI
AVR- Yamaha Aventage RX-A3050
To RS2000 with high speed MonoPrice Cabernet HDMI
Thanks.
I had this same behavior with the same equipment when I first setup my nx7. I changed to a high speed hdmi cable and everything cleared up. My new cable was just a amazon basics high speed hdmi about 30ft long. Just happened to have one laying around so that was nice.
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Yeah, I have to agree. This sounds like an HDMI cable issue. Get one that's certified to carry the full 18Gbps bandwidth HDMI 2.0 requires.
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New list of codes with added functions for firmware 3.1.
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Appreciate advice to replace cables. That is my mission today. It is pretty easy to find certified short cables. So I have those 3ft to 6ft source cables ordered and on the way. The bigger challenge is to find a certified 35-40ft cable. I could not come up with one. I wish my set up allowed me to have the projector closer to the AVR, but it does not. It is every bit of 35-40ft up through AV closet ceiling, across attic and back down through ceiling. Might be able to make 35ft work if I pull slack out of cable.
Even though not certified, I could order another HDMI cable (different, newer model which might work better with newer HDMI standards??) with same specs as the one I have- Active High Speed/ 4K at 60Hz / HDR /18Gbps / 28AWG/ YCbCr 4:4:4/ CL2/ 40ft. (But that is exactly what my current cable was spec'd at too).
Or, I found these cables- HDMI/ Dynamic HDR/ Ultra High Speed/ 8k at 120Hz/ 48Gbps/ Fiber Optic/ eARC/ AOC/ YCbCr 4:4:4/ 40ft. They are a little expensive, but certainly worth it if they work dependably. Any thoughts on the Fiber Optic?
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We sell one that works - Key Digital Pro 40 ft HDMI Cable, Item #KEYKDPRO40G
They aren't too expensive.
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Or these should work -
RUIPRO Hybrid HDMI Cable, Supports HDMI2.0b, 4K60HZ 4:4:4, 18Gbps Bandwidth, HDR10, Dolby Vision, ARC, HDCP2.2, Fiber HDMI Cable, Ultra Slim and Flexible (15m)
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Updated my RS2000 to the new firmware, and it was an easy process.
I haven’t dug too deep into testing but initial impressions are very positive! With my 130” wide 2.35 screen, frame by frame on High HDR Level was bright and beautiful. I use the filter for wide color. I find it’s a much richer and saturated picture with the filter even though it a slight loss of light output.
This projector continues to amaze. Looking forward to catching up this fall/winter on a lot of movies I haven’t had time to watch this summer.
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Updated my RS2000 to the new firmware, and it was an easy process.
I haven’t dug too deep into testing but initial impressions are very positive! With my 130” wide 2.35 screen, frame by frame on High HDR Level was bright and beautiful. I use the filter for wide color. I find it’s a much richer and saturated picture with the filter even though it a slight loss of light output.
This projector continues to amaze. Looking forward to catching up this fall/winter on a lot of movies I haven’t had time to watch this summer.
Sounds like the correct setting for your setup. DTM is a great new feature. :)
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Frame adapt
When in auto mode, it looks at frames or scenes and selects what it feels is most appropriate. So it will vary between low, medium and high throughout the movie. So for images above 2,000 nits, it selects low. For images between 500 and 2,000 nits it selects medium and for images below 500 nits, it selects high.
Frame Adpt Menu
Static: This is for a fixed nit level, like with UB9000 with HDR Optimizer.
Frame by frame: as the name says, will analyze frame by frame for DTM.
Scene by Scene: as the name says, will analyze scene by scene for DTM.
Filter
Normal is no filter, same as HDR no filter we had before.
Wide is with BT2020 filter. DCI color space.
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I’m still a bit confused as to how this DTM is operating.
According to what you’re saying Mike the auto setting is like the dynamic part selecting between L,M, and H. Is it using the MaxCLL/Fall to determine which setting L,M, or H to use?
If you choose a particular setting such as H is it still dynamically using the tone mapping or is it just selecting a particular curve?
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No, the auto setting means it can use low, medium and high during the course of a movie. Not just one setting.
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Thanks Mike, So all the settings Auto, L, M, and H are dynamically tone mapping?
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Thanks Mike, So all the settings Auto, L, M, and H are dynamically tone mapping?
That's correct. The Auto, Low, Medium, and High settings are simply the peak nit clip points that the tone mapper uses. Though, the names are a bit counter intuitive. The High setting is actually the lowest peak nit clip point. Though maybe the names imply how bright the image appears.
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JVC codes.
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I had a screening of Avengers: Endgame in the theater tonight. This is the first time I've watched this since it was out in theaters. The combination of madVR's tonemapping and my RS2000 did wonders for this movie. The image quality was astonishingly good. The surround track on this movie is very, very good as well. Lots of ultra low bass moments and great use of surround effects. It will make most theaters break a sweat.
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Have a couple RS1000 B-stocks coming in. Have not seen one of these in several months. Contact us for details.
Added
The two sold, but have one more coming in.
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That's correct. The Auto, Low, Medium, and High settings are simply the peak nit clip points that the tone mapper uses. Though, the names are a bit counter intuitive. The High setting is actually the lowest peak nit clip point. Though maybe the names imply how bright the image appears.
Hmm. Not sure about this. I think JVC analyzes the APL and peak nits of the scene to determine which mode to use (similar to evaluating FALL and CLL before with HDR10) but you don't "clip" if you pick HIGH and leave it there. The curve is far more aggressive (compressed) so the image will be brighter, so not really recommended for those with a lot of light output to use. Really for either REALLY dark content or people that have a lower level of light to work with.
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I just upgraded to an NX7 from an RS400, and thought this might be useful to others considering a similar upgrade. I posted this 'elsewhere' ;) but thought it might be of some interest here as well.
I've had the RS400 for 3 1/2 years. I use a Screen Innovations 160" diagonal 2.35:1, Nominal Gain 1.3, Solar White screen. so I have a large area to fill. I redid the Autocalibration a month ago. I use a Panasonic UB-820 for my source, using the HDR Optimizer, with HDR output. I have an HDFury Linker between AVR and JVC, to enable Dynamic Iris and prevent Gamma D auto-switching. I use an Arve-based Custom Curve, tweaked with Dominic Chan's assistance (thanks Dom!).
I think I have a fairly good eye in terms of picture quality, with 15+ years of professional Wildlife Photography experience (DLC Photography (http://www.dlcphoto.com/)). I've been quite pleased with both the SDR and HDR images I've had with the RS400, although I was aware that the HDR 'pop' with it didn't compare with what I see with my 75" Sony 900E Series LED TV.
The NX7 was received 2 days ago, and I quickly checked that the basic functions were intact: Iris moved without noise, focus was crisp, and convergence was near perfect out of the box (which was virtually free of nicks or dents). It came with 2.08, so I then updated to 3.10, with zero difficulty. For HDR, I set it to Frame Adapt, Frame-by-Frame, on Auto, just for a starting point.
I had purchased a 2nd Premium Certified HDMI Cable, so I could use the Dual HDMI outputs from a Marantz SR7010 for direct A/B comparisons.
In terms of resolution/detail, Native 4k of the NX7 vs the eShift of the RS400, there is a subtle improvement, more apparent when standing right at the screen, and not especially obvious from my 15' seating distance. But this is based on only a few hours viewing, no patterns used as yet, so this impression might change. But I've always felt that my RS400 was a good 'sample' with excellent sharpness.
When viewing HDR content (I used the 'Golden Morons' scene in GOTG2), however, there was simply no contest: the NX7 blasted the RS400 out of the water. This actually came as quite a shock. I was hoping for, half-expecting a reasonable improvement, but this was way more than I had hoped for. I am not one for hyperbole, but this was a proverbial 'night and day' difference. I asked my wife to have a look, who isn't tuned into this type of thing at all, and she was blown away.
The NX7 was dramatically more like my Sony TV in terms of vividness of the color, overall contrast and visual 'pop', giving it an almost '3D' like appearance at times.
The difference was startling enough that I spent considerable time double and triple checking my RS400 settings, switching HDMI Cables and Inputs, watching with only one projector at a time connected to the Marantz, in case something funky was going on with dual video outputs. But I've found nothing amiss. I watched that scene just on the RS400 when I got up yesterday morning, to see it with 'fresh eyes', and it looked great. But then I switched to the NX7, and once again, it was far superior.
Now perhaps my Custom Curve is poor, perhaps my Spyder 5 is off (it was used for Color Autocal), perhaps there's something 'wrong' with my RS400. But I don't think so. I'm pretty sensitive to color balance, saturation, contrast, blowing out of highlights, presence/absence of shadow detail, etc., from my Photography experience. And the RS400 looks pretty darn good to me. And people I've had over to watch have been blown away by what they've seen. So I think my RS400 is set up properly, and doing what it is able to do. Would a professional calibration narrow the difference? Perhaps, but it would be hard to believe it would make this huge a difference. But it is possible.
The NX7 just seems to be in a different category.
I also did limited comparisons with SDR material: for this I used that opening credit scene in Skyfall, which has all the colors, dragons, etc. Here the NX7 once again delivered a superior image, but this difference was not nearly as dramatic. Certainly not 'night and day.' I'd categorize this is as a definite improvement, but more on the subtle side.
Last night, I set aside my testing, and just watched Aquaman in HDR. It was the best it has ever looked, with some scenes just startling for their visual impact.
And remember, this is straight out of the box for the NX7. Just basic configuration settings, no tweaking of brightness, contrast, saturation, or anything.
I also considered overall light output between a fresh bulb, and one with about 1800 hours on it. I don't have a good light meter, so just used a Light Meter app on my Note 8. I realize the absolute Lux measurements are likely not accurate, but thought it should reasonably show relative differences. At High Lamp, Iris fully Open, the RS400 showed 200 lux, the NX7 showed 245, so about 22% more light. I honestly don't think that accounts for the difference with HDR, although I could certainly be wrong.
I'll continue to test and play with this, but at this point, I'm extremely happy that I was able to upgrade.
FWIW!
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I keep telling people there is a pretty big difference with HDR, when comparing the E-shift to the native 4K projectors, but all the E-shift guys, many of which have never seen the native JVC's, keep talking about how the E-shift has better contrast. so, no way the native 4K could throw a better image, unless you are sitting real close to the screen so that you can see the resolution difference. As I keep saying, the improvements in the new, native 4K projectors is more than just resolution. :)
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I keep telling people there is a pretty big difference with HDR, when comparing the E-shift to the native 4K projectors, but all the E-shift guys, many of which have never seen the native JVC's, keep talking about how the E-shift has better contrast. so, no way the native 4K could throw a better image, unless you are sitting real close to the screen so that you can see the resolution difference. As I keep saying, the improvements in the new, native 4K projectors is more than just resolution. :)
Definitely. If the only improvement were in the resolution, I would feel I'd wasted my money for an upgrade.
But throw in the HDR and WCG performance, along with the uptick in resolution, and the whole is much greater than the sum of the parts.
In my case, moving from the entry level to the middle level was a move up in Contrast for me, which adds yet another layer of improvement.
Overall, I'm a pretty happy camper.
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The contrast difference isn't that much between the 4k and eshift models to make a large meaningful difference. JVC fixed the internal reflection issue the eshifters had and I think this makes mid-brightness content pop more. The image just feels more refined. Almost smoother and more analog. It's far more "looking through the window", too. I thought the difference in image quality was very noticeable.
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The contrast difference isn't that much between the 4k and eshift models to make a large meaningful difference. JVC fixed the internal reflection issue the eshifters had and I think this makes mid-brightness content pop more. The image just feels more refined. Almost smoother and more analog. It's far more "looking through the window", too. I thought the difference in image quality was very noticeable.
I agree. When I first installed it, my wife swore that I bought a bigger screen and didn't tell her about it. The image is just more inviting and has a lot more depth.
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For those on the fence. I heard that American Express is dropping their extra warranty coverage January 1st and I bet within the next year, sales tax will automaticlly be collected in all states.
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Revised JVC control document.
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For those on the fence. I heard that American Express is dropping their extra warranty coverage January 1st and I bet within the next year, sales tax will automaticlly be collected in all states.
Places like eBay and Amazon have already implemented their tax collections for all states. It's getting harder and harder to find tax loop holes online.
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Revised JVC control document.
Thanks Mike, great to have this updated version!
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There is literally no better time this year to buy a new JVC projector than this Friday through Monday. :D
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Even with the RS2000 price increase it is still better than you could have gotten back in Jan, Feb ???
Better not be better than the price I got waiting 8 months for the projector :-X
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These JVC's really are the best consumer projectors that money can buy for screens around 12 feet wide and smaller. Just a reminder for those who are on the fence buying one. :)
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I just upgraded to an NX7 from an RS400, and thought this might be useful to others considering a similar upgrade. I posted this 'elsewhere' ;) but thought it might be of some interest here as well.
When viewing HDR content (I used the 'Golden Morons' scene in GOTG2), however, there was simply no contest: the NX7 blasted the RS400 out of the water. This actually came as quite a shock. I was hoping for, half-expecting a reasonable improvement, but this was way more than I had hoped for. I am not one for hyperbole, but this was a proverbial 'night and day' difference. I asked my wife to have a look, who isn't tuned into this type of thing at all, and she was blown away.
.
.
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The NX7 just seems to be in a different category.
.
.
And remember, this is straight out of the box for the NX7. Just basic configuration settings, no tweaking of brightness, contrast, saturation, or anything.
I'll continue to test and play with this, but at this point, I'm extremely happy that I was able to upgrade.
FWIW!
Thanks for posting this. I'm in the exact same upgrade process and moving from the RS400, etc. I was never happy with the eshift HDR performance of the RS400 - and I had it professionally calibrated 2x over the 3 years I had it. Time to move on. I think I'll be following your NX7 upgrade path.
Thx
Kenreau
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Thanks for posting this. I'm in the exact same upgrade process and moving from the RS400, etc. I was never happy with the eshift HDR performance of the RS400 - and I had it professionally calibrated 2x over the 3 years I had it. Time to move on. I think I'll be following your NX7 upgrade path.
Thx
Kenreau
You're quite welcome.
I never had mine professionally calibrated, and was using Custom Curves and an HDFury Linker. I was actually fairly pleased with what I was seeing with my RS400. But I know it didn't have the visual 'pop' that HDR should provide, and which I saw in my 900E series Sony TV. Not a fair comparison perhaps, but you know what I mean.
I continue to be really happy with my NX7. If you do make the move, I'd be very interested in hearing your thoughts.
Don
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Thanks for posting this. I'm in the exact same upgrade process and moving from the RS400, etc. I was never happy with the eshift HDR performance of the RS400 - and I had it professionally calibrated 2x over the 3 years I had it. Time to move on. I think I'll be following your NX7 upgrade path.
Thx
Kenreau
I sent you a PM.
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Great article on the new HDR Dynamic Tone Mapping -
https://www.soundandvision.com/content/hands-jvc-s-dynamic-tone-mapping-update (https://www.soundandvision.com/content/hands-jvc-s-dynamic-tone-mapping-update)
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Great article/review, thanks. I ended up purchasing the RS2000 from Mike and also have reached out to Kris to do a calibration next time he comes through the area. Exciting times ahead.
Thx
Kenreau
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Some B-stock coming in. :)
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I was reading that a preliminary US/China trade agreement has been agreed upon. The 25% tariffs that were supposed to go in effect today are now cancelled. The new tariff percentage is 7.5% and I read certain products will have no import tariff associated with them. Many of these items are in the consumer electronics segment. I wonder if this means that JVC will lower the MSRP of the RS2000/N7 back to $7,999?
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I was reading that a preliminary US/China trade agreement has been agreed upon. The 25% tariffs that were supposed to go in effect today are now cancelled. The new tariff percentage is 7.5% and I read certain products will have no import tariff associated with them. Many of these items are in the consumer electronics segment. I wonder if this means that JVC will lower the MSRP of the RS2000/N7 back to $7,999?
I would not be holding my breath. I certainly do not expect to see a reduced MSRP.
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I was reading that a preliminary US/China trade agreement has been agreed upon. The 25% tariffs that were supposed to go in effect today are now cancelled. The new tariff percentage is 7.5% and I read certain products will have no import tariff associated with them. Many of these items are in the consumer electronics segment. I wonder if this means that JVC will lower the MSRP of the RS2000/N7 back to $7,999?
Not sure how much increase was due to tariffs, if any. JVC only increased price on one model. I speculated that JVC put increases all on one model, but with the lens coming from Japan and the projectors built in Thailand, I just do not know what effect the tariffs had on JVC's costs.
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Ahh, for some reason I was under the impression the price increase was solely due to the anticipated increase on tariffs.
I also was under the impression the lens for the RS1000 and RS2000 were now being made in China. Do we know if the RS3000 lens is Japanese?
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Ahh, for some reason I was under the impression the price increase was solely due to the anticipated increase on tariffs.
I also was under the impression the lens for the RS1000 and RS2000 were now being made in China. Do we know if the RS3000 lens is Japanese?
I am almost 100% sure that all three lenses are made in Japan.
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Purchase a new DLA-RS2000 JVC Native 4K Projector system between Jan. 1, 2020 and Jan. 30, 2020 and get a free spare lamp ! :)
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I just attempted install of update 3.1 and about 1 minute in the lights went from cycling to all 3 blinking at the same time. Doesn't appear to follow what Chris (JVC) indicated in his video for the update. I'm a little nervous now as I'm not sure why this happened. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thanks Dale
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I just attempted install of update 3.1 and about 1 minute in the lights went from cycling to all 3 blinking at the same time. Doesn't appear to follow what Chris (JVC) indicated in his video for the update. I'm a little nervous now as I'm not sure why this happened. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thanks Dale
Did it finally finish and work or no ?
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Did it finally finish and work or no ?
Hi Craig,
No it did not progress past the 3 blinking lights. Mike reached out to JVC, so I'm waiting on next steps. Hoping to hear something really soon.
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Hi Craig,
No it did not progress past the 3 blinking lights. Mike reached out to JVC, so I'm waiting on next steps. Hoping to hear something really soon.
Sent you info on what to do.
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Turns out Psalm234's problem was the 3D emitter was plugged into back of projector and projector would not complete the firmware update with this plugged in.
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Turns out Psalm234's problem was the 3D emitter was plugged into back of projector and projector would not complete the firmware update with this plugged in.
Wow, that must be a bug JVC will be happy to hear about. This is good to know if/when I need to do an update on mine. I currently have my emitter plugged in.
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Wow, that must be a bug JVC will be happy to hear about. This is good to know if/when I need to do an update on mine. I currently have my emitter plugged in.
Yeah, I would recommend removing the emitter when doing an update. The update process would error out almost immediately with the emitter plugged in. I finally got the 3.1 update installed.
Not sure it was the emitter now, because I have talked to several others that have had zero problems updating, with 3D emitter in place.
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Yeah, I would recommend removing the emitter when doing an update. The update process would error out almost immediately with the emitter plugged in. I finally got the 3.1 update installed.
This is not an issue with every unit / every emitter. I've had my JVC OEM 3D RF emitter plugged in for all my f/w updates on the rs2000, including 3.1, without any issues.
Which 3D emitter are you using? Is it the OEM JVC RF emitter?
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I can't 100% remember, but I think I had my XPand 3D emitter plugged in when doing the v3.1 firmware update on the RS2000. Maybe it's just with specific emitters?
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This is not an issue with every unit / every emitter. I've had my JVC OEM 3D RF emitter plugged in for all my f/w updates on the rs2000, including 3.1, without any issues.
Which 3D emitter are you using? Is it the OEM JVC RF emitter?
I updated with my JVC emitter installed as well. I probably should just take it out...I haven't watched a 3D movie in probably 2 years and my glasses are the original JVC ones that don't work with my screen.
On another subject, Manni, I just upgraded to a scope screen that's the same height as my old 88" diagonal screen and WOW, what a difference on scope films. Totally blown away by the difference. I have some pictures in the 2.35:1 screen forum.
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I updated with my JVC emitter installed as well. I probably should just take it out...I haven't watched a 3D movie in probably 2 years and my glasses are the original JVC ones that don't work with my screen.
On another subject, Manni, I just upgraded to a scope screen that's the same height as my old 88" diagonal screen and WOW, what a difference on scope films. Totally blown away by the difference. I have some pictures in the 2.35:1 screen forum.
I saw you mentioning this screen upgrade, I'm very happy for you. I wish it would be possible to do the same in my room, unfortunately I've maxxed my screen size at 88" (16/9). The only way I could get larger scope films would be to have a smaller picture for narrower ratios, as my room is height limited, and I don't want that. I hope I'll find a way to move house at some point, that's the only way to a larger screen for me...
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Just an FYI, JVC dealer will be getting hit with another price increase on the RS2000/NX7 February 1st. :(
That is the bad news. The good news is the free lamp promotion for the RS2000/NX7 carries through to end of march.
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Just an FYI, JVC dealer will be getting hit with another price increase on the RS2000/NX7 February 1st. :(
That is the bad news. The good news is the free lamp promotion for the RS2000/NX7 carries through to end of march.
Is this because of tariffs again? If not, I cannot help but wonder if JVC realizes how under-priced the RS2000 is compared to the Sony 695 (probably its closest competitor in its class).
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Is this because of tariffs again? If not, I cannot help but wonder if JVC realizes how under-priced the RS2000 is compared to the Sony 695 (probably its closest competitor in its class).
Price increase is hitting all three. The RS1000 is getting hit with a smaller increase. The RS3000 is also getting hit with about the same increase as the RS2000.
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Do we know how much of a price increase there's going to be?
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Do we know how much of a price increase there's going to be?
Several hundred. :(
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That's not as bad as I thought it was going to be. I kind of figured JVC would match the 695ES at $10,000 for the RS2000 and maybe up the price of the RS3000 to $20,000 to get closer to the 885ES.
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That's not as bad as I thought it was going to be. I kind of figured JVC would match the 695ES at $10,000 for the RS2000 and maybe up the price of the RS3000 to $20,000 to get closer to the 885ES.
The RS3000 at $20K would be too close to the RS4500.
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Since installing my RS2000 a few months ago, and also installing newest firmware, I have had an off and on problem with volume completely failing to function upon start up or upon switching input. (Video remains in great shape). Sometimes it is just a 1 to 3 minute delay, and sometimes it just will not work at all. I can usually get it going by unplugging everything and rebooting the entire system and restarting everything. I switched from Roku to Apple TV, took my Cox cable receiver box out of the system. Same result regardless of reconfiguring. I am wondering if it is some kind of handshake issue between my receiver (Yamaha Aventage RX-A3050) and my RS2000. I hate to fork out a couple of grand on a new receiver unless I am pretty sure that either: 1) The receiver and the RS2000 just do not like each other, or 2) The receiver is just sick and the timing of the problem with the installation of the new projector was just a coincidence.
Appreciate any advise or experiences. And if this would be better in a receiver topic thread, I am glad to move it.
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Since installing my RS2000 a few months ago, and also installing newest firmware, I have had an off and on problem with volume completely failing to function upon start up or upon switching input. (Video remains in great shape). Sometimes it is just a 1 to 3 minute delay, and sometimes it just will not work at all. I can usually get it going by unplugging everything and rebooting the entire system and restarting everything. I switched from Roku to Apple TV, took my Cox cable receiver box out of the system. Same result regardless of reconfiguring. I am wondering if it is some kind of handshake issue between my receiver (Yamaha Aventage RX-A3050) and my RS2000. I hate to fork out a couple of grand on a new receiver unless I am pretty sure that either: 1) The receiver and the RS2000 just do not like each other, or 2) The receiver is just sick and the timing of the problem with the installation of the new projector was just a coincidence.
Appreciate any advise or experiences. And if this would be better in a receiver topic thread, I am glad to move it.
Are you using a Universal Remote with macros? You may have to change the sequence of things starting and add in a delay to ensure that handshakes take place at the right time.
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I am ashamed to say that I have a whole line up of remotes and run everything from its own factory remote. (wife loves that) I also have a stand alone Van Alstine hybrid tube amp for the 2 front channels that does not even have a remote. It is all manual. Adding the extra amp allows me to run 11.2 Atmos set up with the Yamaha. But I think your point is good- to allow plenty of time for each component to fully activate before turning on the next one, and to play around with power up sequence. I always turn on projector first, receiver second and only after I get the illuminated blue screen, and source third. I will try a different sequence/order. Thanks.
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I am ashamed to say that I have a whole line up of remotes and run everything from its own factory remote. (wife loves that) I also have a stand alone Van Alstine hybrid tube amp for the 2 front channels that does not even have a remote. It is all manual. Adding the extra amp allows me to run 11.2 Atmos set up with the Yamaha. But I think your point is good- to allow plenty of time for each component to fully activate before turning on the next one, and to play around with power up sequence. I always turn on projector first, receiver second and only after I get the illuminated blue screen, and source third. I will try a different sequence/order. Thanks.
I'd try source device first, receiver 2nd and projector last as the order.
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Have some NX5/RS1000 B-stocks coming in.
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I had a customer send me this today regarding his new RS2000 -
" Hi Craig,
I watched 2001 4K HDR last night and the space scenes were Astonishing!!
This is the image I have been searching for since I started this hobby over 20 years ago, always pursuing the best black level with brightest highlights. The stars in space and the light reflected off of the ships and objects were really incredible.
Very happy with the upgrade. "
I love when folks are super happy - in this case with the JVC RS2000 !
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Just a reminder, JVC continued the free lamp coupon for the RS2000 until end of March.
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Some NX5 and NX7 B-stocks just arrived. :)
All sold, but just found out some RS1000's will be coming in soon.
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JVC DCR combo deal. Call us for details.
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Until the ban is lifted in CA, availability of the RS2000 and RS1000 is going to be limited. Probably will run out, before ban is lifted, especially on the RS2000. JVC USA has projectors, but due to the ban caused by the Coronavirus , they can't get them into distribution.
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Sad news. Those on the fence better jump to one side soon. Otherwise they may face months long wait for new stock to arrive.
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JVC distribution is out of RS1000's and RS2000's at this time. So we are down to dealer stock, for what is available. We currently have all three models available.
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JVC opened for a day and shipped us B-stock that we have been waiting a month for. Was not expecting this, but happy to have them. :)
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JVC is ending the lamp promo this month on the RS2000.
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Hi Everyone-
Finally got my Nx7 ceiling mounted yesterday. This is my first projector and having issues lining up the picture perfectly w/my 16:9 135" Silver ticket screen. The throw distance is 17 feet. I am on the 3.1 fw
I was tinkering with the menus and can't quite figure out how to get the corners in the focus/shift/zoom screen to match the corners of my screen.
when i first powered on the projector, 1/2 of the image was on the ceiling. I initially used the focus/shift/zoom screen to get the image on the screen, but decided to just physically move the projector via my mount to get the image on the screen. I assume that's better.
I adjusted the keystone to -12 which got rid of the angles, but again the image on the focus/shift/zoom screen still is angled and not lined up.
There was an option for Zoom, auto, and native. Which one of these should i pick?
Am i missing an option to display the image in 16:9?
Lastly, when doing initial settings, I was told to use the following:
SDR: user1, 709 color profile, 6500K, and 2.2
HDR: Frame adapt HDR mode, frame by frame, +/- wide filter, hdr level medium
I've adjusted 4k tv's before and I had to be on an hdr source to make adjustments, otherwise it would just adjust the sdr settings. Do i need to be on an sdr source to adjust sdr settings and an hdr source/video to make adjustments for HDR or can I do it all at once?
Thanks in advance.
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Hi Everyone-
Finally got my Nx7 ceiling mounted yesterday. This is my first projector and having issues lining up the picture perfectly w/my 16:9 135" Silver ticket screen. The throw distance is 17 feet. I am on the 3.1 fw
I was tinkering with the menus and can't quite figure out how to get the corners in the focus/shift/zoom screen to match the corners of my screen.
when i first powered on the projector, 1/2 of the image was on the ceiling. I initially used the focus/shift/zoom screen to get the image on the screen, but decided to just physically move the projector via my mount to get the image on the screen. I assume that's better.
I adjusted the keystone to -12 which got rid of the angles, but again the image on the focus/shift/zoom screen still is angled and not lined up.
There was an option for Zoom, auto, and native. Which one of these should i pick?
Am i missing an option to display the image in 16:9?
Lastly, when doing initial settings, I was told to use the following:
SDR: user1, 709 color profile, 6500K, and 2.2
HDR: Frame adapt HDR mode, frame by frame, +/- wide filter, hdr level medium
I've adjusted 4k tv's before and I had to be on an hdr source to make adjustments, otherwise it would just adjust the sdr settings. Do i need to be on an sdr source to adjust sdr settings and an hdr source/video to make adjustments for HDR or can I do it all at once?
Thanks in advance.
Turn off Keystone. The projector should be shooting straight ahead. Then you use lens shift and zoom to fit the image to the screen. Reduce the size of the image, slightly smaller than your screen and take a picture of the whole screen. I like to do this on input 2 of the projector, if that input is not being used. That way I get a nice blue image that shows up well on screen.
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If considering an RS2000, I would highly recommend purchasing before end of this month. :)
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Hi Everyone-
Finally got my Nx7 ceiling mounted yesterday. This is my first projector and having issues lining up the picture perfectly w/my 16:9 135" Silver ticket screen. The throw distance is 17 feet. I am on the 3.1 fw
I was tinkering with the menus and can't quite figure out how to get the corners in the focus/shift/zoom screen to match the corners of my screen.
when i first powered on the projector, 1/2 of the image was on the ceiling. I initially used the focus/shift/zoom screen to get the image on the screen, but decided to just physically move the projector via my mount to get the image on the screen. I assume that's better.
I adjusted the keystone to -12 which got rid of the angles, but again the image on the focus/shift/zoom screen still is angled and not lined up.
There was an option for Zoom, auto, and native. Which one of these should i pick?
Am i missing an option to display the image in 16:9?
Lastly, when doing initial settings, I was told to use the following:
SDR: user1, 709 color profile, 6500K, and 2.2
HDR: Frame adapt HDR mode, frame by frame, +/- wide filter, hdr level medium
I've adjusted 4k tv's before and I had to be on an hdr source to make adjustments, otherwise it would just adjust the sdr settings. Do i need to be on an sdr source to adjust sdr settings and an hdr source/video to make adjustments for HDR or can I do it all at once?
Thanks in advance.
It sounds like you may have to adjust the ceiling mount more. If you're forced to use keystone to get proper image geometry, it sounds like the projector is tilted up or down too much. It needs to be parallel to your floor/ceiling, as does the screen.
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Turn off Keystone. The projector should be shooting straight ahead. Then you use lens shift and zoom to fit the image to the screen. Reduce the size of the image, slightly smaller than your screen and take a picture of the whole screen. I like to do this on input 2 of the projector, if that input is not being used. That way I get a nice blue image that shows up well on screen.
Thank you. i think i messed up by moving the mount to have the center of the lens in the center of the screen. I now have a projector that's angled down.
As far as aspect mode mode to use, would you use auto, zoom, or native?
Does the HDR settings have to be adjusted when the hdr settings are on screen?
At 17 feet from screen in the back of the room, front or ceiling mount (f) is the correct choice, right?
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Thank you. i think i messed up by moving the mount to have the center of the lens in the center of the screen. I now have a projector that's angled down.
As far as aspect mode mode to use, would you use auto, zoom, or native?
Does the HDR settings have to be adjusted when the hdr settings are on screen?
At 17 feet from screen in the back of the room, front or ceiling mount (f) is the correct choice, right?
Use auto for aspect ratio.
To make sure projector auto switches from SDR to HDR. Select SDR source and then set up SDR settings. Then select HDR source (not just 4K) and select HDR settings. Now when playing SDR, it should go to SDR settings automaticlly. When playing HDR, it should go to HDR settings automaticlly. You also want to turn on Frame Adapt. Watch end of video for Frame Adapt setup. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aUCgAlstUM&t=22s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aUCgAlstUM&t=22s)
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So made the changes and leveled projector. Picture was taking at an angle, but screen is also pretty much level as well. Using lens shift and zoom, here is the biggest image I'm able to obtain. I'm still losing some image on the top and the bottom of the screen. It's a 16:9 screen. Is that space salvageable?
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So made the changes and leveled projector. Picture was taking at an angle, but screen is also pretty much level as well. Using lens shift and zoom, here is the biggest image I'm able to obtain. I'm still losing some image on the top and the bottom of the screen. It's a 16:9 screen. Is that space salvageable?
Answered on the other forum also. You are set up for using full panel width. Doing so gains you some light output, but it costs you some loss in image size. That is why I do not recommend using full panel width on a 16:9 screen. Zoom the image so that top and bottom of image meets the frame and set aspect ratio in the projector to auto, not zoom. Now when playing a 16:9 image your screen will be filled.
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You gotta remember the native resolution is 4096 x 2160, which is 1.89:1. Once you do as Mike suggests you'll be all set.
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For hdr gaming on ps4 pro/Xbox one x, what color space/hdr settings are you guys using?
I've turned on low latency mode, but what about motion enhance?
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If the source is HDR use the HDR setting. I would not use motion enhance.
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Motion Enhance is a way for JVC to improve pixel response time of the DiLA panels. The voltage sent to the panels is higher, which makes the pixels react quicker. But if it's too high artifacts can occur. I use Motion Enhance set to low and I notice less additional blur in motion without any artifacts that I can see. High can cause what looks like subtle ghost trails in motion, so I wouldn't use that setting. I believe this artifact is called overshoot.
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If the source is HDR use the HDR setting. I would not use motion enhance.
right now
I've got this for my gaming hdr settings:
user 3
color profile bt.2020 (should i move this to hdr?)
color temp is hdr10
gamma is hdr (pq) (should i use hdr hlg?)
what would you change for gaming?
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Motion Enhance is a way for JVC to improve pixel response time of the DiLA panels. The voltage sent to the panels is higher, which makes the pixels react quicker. But if it's too high artifacts can occur. I use Motion Enhance set to low and I notice less additional blur in motion without any artifacts that I can see. High can cause what looks like subtle ghost trails in motion, so I wouldn't use that setting. I believe this artifact is called overshoot.
I'll switch it to low. thank you
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right now
I've got this for my gaming hdr settings:
user 3
color profile bt.2020 (should i move this to hdr?)
color temp is hdr10
gamma is hdr (pq) (should i use hdr hlg?)
what would you change for gaming?
I thought you had the NX5? NX5 does not have the BT2020 filter. HLG is for broadcast TV.
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I thought you had the NX5? NX5 does not have the BT2020 filter. HLG is for broadcast TV.
Nope. I have an rs2000.
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Nope. I have an rs2000.
Then yes, use BT2020 for HDR..
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Thanks Mike.
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Sure is quiet over here! Everyone must be enjoying their JVC projectors!;)
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I was watching season 2 of Star Trek Discovery over the weekend. Looked and sounded great!
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Sure is quiet over here! Everyone must be enjoying their JVC projectors!;)
What I'd be most interested in hearing from people is what kinds of improvements do they want to see on new models that may come out maybe next year? I doubt we'll see anything new this fall due to COVID but also, no one is forcing JVC's hand to do so.
Personally, I'd like to see at least a 10% increase in on/off contrast, more light output and if they plan on keeping eshift on the top model, add in HDMI 2.1 or DisplayPort to allow for an 8K video input option. They should also fix the limited chroma resolution when sending a 10/12bit signal.
And, as always, I'd like to see ANSI contrast improved, but I doubt that will happen.
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Sure is quiet over here! Everyone must be enjoying their JVC projectors!;)
Plus it's summer. Folks must be outside or on vacation - covid or no covid !
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What I'd be most interested in hearing from people is what kinds of improvements do they want to see on new models that may come out maybe next year? I doubt we'll see anything new this fall due to COVID but also, no one is forcing JVC's hand to do so.
Personally, I'd like to see at least a 10% increase in on/off contrast, more light output and if they plan on keeping eshift on the top model, add in HDMI 2.1 or DisplayPort to allow for an 8K video input option. They should also fix the limited chroma resolution when sending a 10/12bit signal.
And, as always, I'd like to see ANSI contrast improved, but I doubt that will happen.
Mainly would like to see more light output and more contrast. :)
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Mainly would like to see more light output and more contrast. :)
That and faster sync times.
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Agree with both of these. Would add improved DI functionality and choices, with fewer artifacts and complete fade to black.
And improved DTM, perhaps with room-specific customization, getting closer to 'set it and forget it' HDR functionality would be nice as well!
Interesting that I had to really stop and think about what I would improve, since it works so well as is!
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I'd love to have the Lens Memory tied not only to specific aspect ratios, but to all user setting for said Memory. For example, let's say Lens Memory 1 was for 2.40:1 movies, but I need two different settings...one for HDR and one for SDR. Same for 16x9 movies. It would be nice to have one memory that chooses every aspect of the picture mode versus choosing one lens memory, then a second picture mode. It would also be nice to have "instant HDMI sync," but that may be a pipe dream :)
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I wish the projector had black bar detection like many video processors do. If it did, it could switch aspect ratios automatically. madVR can recall lens memories based off of black bars/aspect ratio. Really handy. It controls my NX9 over IP from my HTPC. It works in conjunction with my media player. It will pause the movie, switch aspect ratios based on which lens memory is assigned to a particular aspect ratio, and then start playing the movie once it gets confirmation that the lens memory has been set. This is one of the main reasons why I opt to use an HTPC. So much customization and functionality.
The dynamic iris, at least on the RS3000/NX9, is the best I've seen overall. I use auto 2 mode and with most movies I don't see it working for the entire movie. There are some gamma shifts on occasion, but overall, it's some of the best DI programming I've seen. A few tweaks could help, but I don't think a big improvement is even possible.
A more powerful FPGA could improve DTM and I'm willing to bet JVC is already working on improvements.
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For those needing Control4 drivers for JVC projectors, shoot us an email. Have the latest ones. :)
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I have the JVC DLA RS2000 and Panasonic DP-UB9000. They’re both new to me as they were just installed. Having said that since both devices have plethora of adjustments, I’m a bit overwhelmed. Do I adjust “picture quality” on the JVC or PANA. Also which device is performing upscaling to 4K from 1080P sources? Do I need to disable one or the other? Do they both scale together? Thanks. Joe.
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I would adjust picture quality on the JVC. The Panasonic will up convert to 4K and when that happens the projector does nothing, since it is receiving a 4k signal.
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Turn off the HDR Optimizer tool inside the UB9000's menu system. Make sure you're using the RS2000's frame adapt HDR mode when sending the projector an HDR image. Out of the box, Natural mode is probably your best bet for regular SDR video content. It's going to offer the most accurate image.
I agree with Mike. Let the Panasonic upscale 1080p content to 4K. It does a better job than the RS2000.
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I wish the projector had black bar detection like many video processors do. If it did, it could switch aspect ratios automatically. madVR can recall lens memories based off of black bars/aspect ratio. Really handy. It controls my NX9 over IP from my HTPC. It works in conjunction with my media player. It will pause the movie, switch aspect ratios based on which lens memory is assigned to a particular aspect ratio, and then start playing the movie once it gets confirmation that the lens memory has been set. This is one of the main reasons why I opt to use an HTPC. So much customization and functionality.
The dynamic iris, at least on the RS3000/NX9, is the best I've seen overall. I use auto 2 mode and with most movies I don't see it working for the entire movie. There are some gamma shifts on occasion, but overall, it's some of the best DI programming I've seen. A few tweaks could help, but I don't think a big improvement is even possible.
A more powerful FPGA could improve DTM and I'm willing to bet JVC is already working on improvements.
I need to do some research to get my MadVR to work that way. Seems amazing to have.
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A more powerful FPGA could improve DTM and I'm willing to bet JVC is already working on improvements.
Here we are...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eo5EyhrKyAE
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I just received an email regarding a JVC 2000 upgrade. Any other information as to where to get it and how to download it into the projector? I just looked at the JVC web site and saw nothing.
Thanks
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The new software update is coming out later this year, New Years at the latest.
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Dylan,
Thanks,
Ed
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Any idea when you will have the RS2000 back in stock/shipping recent orders? Asking for a friend. ;)
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Any idea when you will have the RS2000 back in stock/shipping recent orders? Asking for a friend. ;)
Will have some soon. :)
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Thanks, Mike, for the quick response. The “friend” was really me, since I placed an order last week. I thought the smiley would give it away.
Going from a 1080P projector to 4K for the first time, I could be a little impatient?
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The new firmware looks very exciting. You input screen size and screen gain. You also can select screen material. For scope screens you would calculate the 16:9 size using scope screen width. The projector then measures the zoom position of the lens, high or low lamp, iris setting and lamp hours. Then the projector optimizes the HDR for your specific setup. On top of that, it automatically adjusts as the lamp ages. Note for scope screen users using lens memory, the different zooms will be used automatically in the calculations. Also taking care of those with Lumagen.
"On the RS2000/3000 adding new color profile so you can do max brightness (no CMS) with and without the color filter engaged. So, for a customer with an external CMS like Lumagen."
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I feel like this upgrade saved my $5000 in an upgrade. Well done JVC!
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I feel like this upgrade saved my $5000 in an upgrade. Well done JVC!
That's almost enough to buy an RS1000 for your bedroom ! ::)
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For those that still use it, JVC will be adding a new collaborative mode that can be used with the Panasonic UB9000 when it's using its HDR Optimizer tool.
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Check out the Q&A video with Chris Deutsch and Mike Garrett in the A/V Industry News section - even more information about the HDR Theater Optimizer update.
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For those that still use it, JVC will be adding a new collaborative mode that can be used with the Panasonic UB9000 when it's using its HDR Optimizer tool.
Do you have a link here, or can you provide any additional details on this? I've read everything I can find on the new firmware, but this is the first I've heard about this 'collaborative' mode - sounds interesting!
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Do you have a link here, or can you provide any additional details on this? I've read everything I can find on the new firmware, but this is the first I've heard about this 'collaborative' mode - sounds interesting!
I don't think there is more info - yet. Maybe there will be more at the virtual Cedia on the 15th.
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For those that still use it, JVC will be adding a new collaborative mode that can be used with the Panasonic UB9000 when it's using its HDR Optimizer tool.
Do you know more about this? Will this also involve a firmware update to the UB9000? Thanks.
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Do you know more about this? Will this also involve a firmware update to the UB9000? Thanks.
Unfortunately, I don't have any other information on this. I was told an update to this collaboration was coming with the new firmware. Though, to be honest, I don't know why anyone would want to use this over the DTM solution available to the projector. It's considerably better overall.
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Unfortunately, I don't have any other information on this. I was told an update to this collaboration was coming with the new firmware. Though, to be honest, I don't know why anyone would want to use this over the DTM solution available to the projector. It's considerably better overall.
I agree, even with just Frame Adapt, I would use it over the Panasonic.
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Hello. For the RS2000, are there discrete codes for switching from low lamp to high lamp? Thanks.
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Hello. For the RS2000, are there discrete codes for switching from low lamp to high lamp? Thanks.
No...I wish there were though as well as discrete codes to change the HDR DTM setting.
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Hello. For the RS2000, are there discrete codes for switching from low lamp to high lamp? Thanks.
I don't know about IR codes, but the RS232 codes (in case you have serial access) are:
Normal Lamp Power: 21 89 01 50 4D 4C 50 30 0A
High Lamp Power: 21 89 01 50 4D 4C 50 31 0A
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Guys, check out the Special Deals section for our CEDIA Specials. :)
https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=2620.msg0;topicseen#new (https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?topic=2620.msg0;topicseen#new)
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Received my RS2000 today and will get to put it up tomorrow. Coming from a Sony HW45ES so I think it will be a good upgrade. Can finally start enjoying some of those 4K Bluray's. Thanks Mike.
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I don't know about IR codes, but the RS232 codes (in case you have serial access) are:
Normal Lamp Power: 21 89 01 50 4D 4C 50 30 0A
High Lamp Power: 21 89 01 50 4D 4C 50 31 0A
Cool. I am going to see if there is a way to integrate this with HDFury. Thanks!
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Received my RS2000 today and will get to put it up tomorrow. Coming from a Sony HW45ES so I think it will be a good upgrade. Can finally start enjoying some of those 4K Bluray's. Thanks Mike.
I will be interested in your experiences, I too have a 45ES.
I'm not a movie person like Mike, Craig and others. I primarily stream 1080p motorcycle racing and watch an occasional movie once a month or two or three.
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I will be interested in your experiences, I too have a 45ES.
I'm not a movie person like Mike, Craig and others. I primarily stream 1080p motorcycle racing and watch an occasional movie once a month or two or three.
Depending on how important movies are to you, you might want to consider the Epson 5050. Sale ends today, but it is only $2,599.
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I will be interested in your experiences, I too have a 45ES.
I'm not a movie person like Mike, Craig and others. I primarily stream 1080p motorcycle racing and watch an occasional movie once a month or two or three.
I have put about 4 hours on the projector and it is very impressive. The first thing I noticed was the sharpness of the focus. It is great across the whole screen. The sony always seemed to have a softness to the focus but the JVC is razor sharp. Watched the newest scan from Shout! of "Screamers (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114367/)", a movie on Netflix "Mara (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1773753/)" (which honestly was just the creepy thing from the end of Rec (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1038988/) terrorizing people) and about 15 minutes of the 4k version of Blade Runner 2049. I used the settings for HDR I got from Mike, Low Lamp, Iris at -5 and Auto 2 and for SDR, Low Lamp, Iris at -10 and Auto 2. These setting worked wonderfully for my environment and screen, SI Solo, 92" w/ Slate 1.2. I sit approximately 6 feet from the screen. The room is fully light controlled and with the lamp on low I had plenty of pop. Overall I am very statisfied with the projector and it is a order of magnitude better than the Sony.
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Who's this DS@HTR posting on the other forum? ;):):D;D:o8)???::)
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Who's this DS@HTR posting on the other forum? ;):):D;D:o8)???::)
Damn Straight - I'd like to know ! 8)
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His posting style does seem familiar, doesn't it. :)
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It's really not hard to figure out to be honest;). I'm wondering how long it will take before the swarm figures it out. It should get pretty interesting at that point
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Kris' review of the new firmware is posted: https://www.soundandvision.com/content/hands-jvc-s-new-theater-optimizer-function
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You beat me to it. I was eating dinner. :)
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You beat me to it. I was eating dinner. :)
I got your back Mike!
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Just found out, Theater Optimizer will automatically update the lamp usage hours every 100 hours. Also Theater Optimizer will account for anamorphic modes. The beta firmware does not do this but the final version will. :)
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Just found out, Theater Optimizer will automatically update the lamp usage hours every 100 hours. Also the new firmware will account for anamorphic modes. The beta firmware does not do this but the final version will. :)
Wow! Great news, it just keeps getting better. 8) Thanks, Mike!
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ok here i go down the rabbit hole
how would the RS1000 compare to the RS600
13.5' throw to a 120" 2.4:1 screen
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ok here i go down the rabbit hole
how would the RS1000 compare to the RS600
13.5' throw to a 120" 2.4:1 screen
I had an RS600. IMO, the native 4K JVC's are sharper, cleaner looking, and the HDR is better.
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I had an RS600. IMO, the native 4K JVC's are sharper, cleaner looking, and the HDR is better.
so better better and more better...lol
wonder how much i could get for my rs600 with 800 hours on the OG lamp hmmmmm
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Well ChadB got done after about 4 hours but of course kids school work came first and then my work. Unfortunately the hurricane hit the next day and we lost power for about 18 hours. Hopefully today I will be able to get up there and watch some movies I have been holding onto until after the calibration. Chad was great and very professional. I would not hesitate to have him back in my home for a update to the calibration or to do the audio.
Here are some of the high lights though:
SDR
Before Calibration: Max fL: 14.9
After Calibration: Max fL: 20.4
White Point: D65, HD BT.709
HDR
Before Calibration: Max cdm2 - 410
After Calibration: Max cdm2 - 424.2
White Point:BT.2020 HDR
B&W
Before Calibration: Max fL: 14.9
After Calibration: Max fL: 19.4
White Point: E54, Black and White
I can post the calibration sheets if any one is interested. I understand that there are a lot more metrics that go into this but I am not sure what numbers are really important.
This is for a RS2000
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New video on the upcoming Theater Optimizer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7KiYkRuKs0&feature=emb_title (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7KiYkRuKs0&feature=emb_title)
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Thanks Mike! :) Good to hear from Scott again. Is this a one of video? I still watch some of the old ones as needed. 8)
I copied the url and saw the Projector Reviews, Inc. Hope Scott is doing other videos!!!
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11/12/2020 for release of new Frame Adapt firmware. :)
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New updated manual: http://books.jvc.com/Download/206370580/B5A-2809-4C.pdf (http://books.jvc.com/Download/206370580/B5A-2809-4C.pdf)
Note the new manual has Frame Adapt and Theater Optimizer in it.
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New command code document also available.
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Summary of changes coming in the new v3.50 firmware -
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I had to send my RS-1000 back to JVC since it was defective. I got a refurbished unit. It fixes the two problems I had (blue/yellow bars in image occasionally; extremely long startup time and frequent blinking warning lights). But I may have found an issue with my new unit: I've noticed what seems to be a horizontal bar about mid-screen the length of the screen that appears often when a camera tilts up/down. I have not seen it during static images. I have so far only noticed it while playing one specific video game, but I've never heard of games causing this issue, so I don't know why a game (ANY game) would be the cause. I've seen this on two different consoles using two different inputs on an HDMI switch. Has anybody heard of such a thing happening with an RS-1000, or does anybody know what this sort of issue is called? Any idea of settings to change that might fix it? Thanks.
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This only happens with video games ? Never movies / video content ?
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This only happens with video games ? Never movies / video content ?
Not sure. I haven't had this new projector for very long. I'm trying to compare the same content on various screens to see if it's a source or display problem. I have been watching YouTube videos of tilt shots (this is "interesting"), for example. There was a YouTube video I watched on my projector that had a noticeable light band in the middle during one shot. I can't really see it on my computer monitor, but I don't know if that's more an issue of how small my monitor is compared to the projector screen. So I've been sitting around thinking of things to watch with tilt shots---so far I've come up with Gotye's "Somebody That I Used to Know." Tonight I'm going to try to play a couple games that allow me to move the camera all over to see if I can still see this or what exact types of screens it shows up on. I've had LCOS projectors before, but I'm not familiar with this sort of thing being an issue, so I thought I'd ask here if anybody's heard of something like this before. To this point, I've seen it on the same game on both an Xbox One X and a Series X over different HDMI cables plugged into different ports on an HDMI switch. I've also moved the projected image to make sure it isn't some weird reaction with my screen---the band moves as I move the image, so it's an image issue.
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Also eliminate other devices as the problem. Connect source direct to projector. But if it only occurs with one source and not another, it does not sound like a projector problem.
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Even after talking to JVC, I still had some questions regarding Theater Optimizer set up. Here is clear explanation of set up for lens memory, horizontal expansion lens fixed in place, Horizontal expansion lens on a sled and vertical compression lens, fixed in place.
Lens Memory:
This is simple. Use the actual 16x9 projected image.
For example. You have a 120” 2.35:1 screen. 46.9” height x 110.4” width.
Your 16x9 image is 46.9” x 83.5”. 96” diagonal. Round up to 100”.
Your 2.35 image is actually a 62.1” x 110.4”. 127” diagonal. This is a 16x9 image where the black bars are simply above and below the screen. Round up to 130”.
Anamorphic.
For example. You have a 120” 2.35:1 screen. 46.9” height x 110.4” width.
Using an old school horizontal expansion lens, your actual 16x9 image is 46.9” x 83.5”. 96” diagonal. Round up to 100”. Turn on Anamorphic Scaling (A or B) in the JVC menu. Then set Theater Optimizer.
Using a newer vertical compression lens, your actual 16x9 image is 62.1” x 110.4”. 127” diagonal. It is then compressed. Round up to 130”. Turn on Anamorphic Scaling (C or D) in the JVC menu. Then set Theater Optimizer.
Remember that you need to “set” Theater Optimizer after inputting all other settings, and you need to do it for each memory/install mode.
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I must be having Deja Vu...I swear I've seen this at least two other places ;) :D
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I must be having Deja Vu...I swear I've seen this at least two other places ;) :D
I get around a little bit. :)
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If you're
(1) not using an anamorphic lens, and
(2) don't change your lens zoom for different aspect ratios because you like everything as big as possible,
then getting the diagonal size number to put into the Theater Optimizer is easy: just multiply the width of your image when Aspect:Zoom is on by 1.147 and then round up to the nearest multiple of 10.
This works because the diagonal of a triangle of a particular shape (like 16:9) is a fixed ratio to each of the other sides, regardless of size.
Even in Aspect:Auto, the whole image area is being projected, just with the outer edges masked - but that doesn't affect the amount of illumination in the center, which is all that matters to the Theater Optimizer.
You can verify my calculation by using the Pythagorean Theorem to get the diagonal of a 16:9 triangle (16 squared + 9 squared = the diagonal squared) and then divide the diagonal by 16 to get the ratio of the diagonal to screen width - you'll find it's very close to 1.147.
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Going to be a new owner of a jvc rs1000 soon. Feb actually. Can’t wait. Mike is a great guy to talk to.
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Going to be a new owner of a jvc rs1000 soon. Feb actually. Can’t wait. Mike is a great guy to talk to.
It's a great projector. Some of the best bang for the buck performance out there today.
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Edit: I just re read my question it’s pretty obvious as I’m sure it would save the settings. I was thinking to much. :)
With anticipation of waiting to purchase my rs1000 in Feb. I had a few questions.
Do the settings stay the same when watching sdr and then watching sdr(3D)? If I select in “auto pic mode” in the settings and select I want sdr for natural, this will make it select natural.
But if I then watch a sdr(3D) movie and I selected in “auto pic mode” I wanted this to go to cinema. And changed cinema for rec709 and 6500k. Will cinema always resort to the changed rec709 and 6500k?
Thanks. Trying wrap my head around how the settings work.
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Edit: I just re read my question it’s pretty obvious as I’m sure it would save the settings. I was thinking to much. :)
With anticipation of waiting to purchase my rs1000 in Feb. I had a few questions.
Do the settings stay the same when watching sdr and then watching sdr(3D)? If I select in “auto pic mode” in the settings and select I want sdr for natural, this will make it select natural.
But if I then watch a sdr(3D) movie and I selected in “auto pic mode” I wanted this to go to cinema. And changed cinema for rec709 and 6500k. Will cinema always resort to the changed rec709 and 6500k?
Thanks. Trying wrap my head around how the settings work.
Edit:
I guess I was trying to say. If a sdr signal is detected, will my settings for sdr (manual iris, dynamic iris, etc) stay when I go to an hdr signal and then back to a sdr signal. And vice versa. Will my hdr/sdr(3D) settings for manual iris, dynamic iris etc stay when when I go back and forth.
Or do I have to change the manual iris for each signal each time.
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Hopefully join you guys with an n7 in feb 2021 when stock becomes available. Does the n7 have improved hdmi sync times at the beginning of a movie unlike my current x5500. Cheers
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Try going to page 1 of this thread and reading it and follow the link to Seegs review.
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Hopefully join you guys with an n7 in feb 2021 when stock becomes available. Does the n7 have improved hdmi sync times at the beginning of a movie unlike my current x5500. Cheers
They're improved over the e-shift models, but sync times are still slower than some of the other current models on the market.
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Ok thankyou all.:)
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I'm a new member and thought I would take the opportunity to post my first question to the owners of the JVC NX5. I'm in the midst of planning my first dedicated home theater, with construction the space beginning in about a month.
After reading the NX5 reviews and seeing it in person, I'm set on purchasing this projector. My question relates to which of two Panasonic projectors I should use to connect to the projector.
I've read that Panasonic and JVC collaborated on settings that optimize the HDR image between the Panasonic UB9000. Does the UB820 also share the same software that would allow the 820 and NX5 to work in concert together? Or do I need to spring for the 9000 to realize the full potential of HDR imagery on the JVC?
The room will be fully light controlled and the screen is a 125" AT Screen Innovations model with a 1.3 gain.
Thanks!
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I'm a new member and thought I would take the opportunity to post my first question to the owners of the JVC NX5. I'm in the midst of planning my first dedicated home theater, with construction the space beginning in about a month.
After reading the NX5 reviews and seeing it in person, I'm set on purchasing this projector. My question relates to which of two Panasonic projectors I should use to connect to the projector.
I've read that Panasonic and JVC collaborated on settings that optimize the HDR image between the Panasonic UB9000. Does the UB820 also share the same software that would allow the 820 and NX5 to work in concert together? Or do I need to spring for the 9000 to realize the full potential of HDR imagery on the JVC?
The room will be fully light controlled and the screen is a 125" AT Screen Innovations model with a 1.3 gain.
Thanks!
The collaboration with Panasonic doesn't matter anymore due to the DTM solution implemented by JVC. If you want a Panasonic, the UB820 will be perfect for you for quite a bit of savings. The high end UHD players typically have a better audio section for music listening, which may or may not matter to you.
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The collaboration with Panasonic doesn't matter anymore due to the DTM solution implemented by JVC. If you want a Panasonic, the UB820 will be perfect for you for quite a bit of savings. The high end UHD players typically have a better audio section for music listening, which may or may not matter to you.
Thanks for the quick reply. So I shouldn't have to use any of the HDR optimization tools on the Panasonic player and just let the JVC handle the tone mapping?
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Yup, the JVC's Frame Adapt HDR mode is better suited to handle the tonemapping.
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Thanks for the quick reply. So I shouldn't have to use any of the HDR optimization tools on the Panasonic player and just let the JVC handle the tone mapping?
As Dave indicated, you would not benefit from the Panasonic Profiles.
In fact, I'd take this one step further, and suggest the UB420, to save even more money. The main difference with the UB820 is the lack of Dolby Vision, which the NX5 (or any other projector that I'm aware of) can't utilize anyway, so it should meet your needs just fine. (edited to clarify)
Any reason to not consider the UB420 Dave?
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As Dave indicated, you would not benefit from the Panasonic Profiles.
In fact, I'd take this one step further, and suggest the UB420, to save even more money. The main difference with the UB820 is the lack of Dolby Vision, which the NX5 (or any other projector that I'm aware of) can utilize, so it should meet your needs just fine.
Any reason to not consider the UB420 Dave?
I haven't compared the 420 directly with the 820, but assuming that Dolby Vision is the only difference, do as DLC suggests and save the cash since you won't need that from the player. Good luck on the build out...start a thread and take lots of pictures :) We love theater build porn ;)
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Any issues with using active hdmi cables? Heard fiber optic can fry hdmi board without a voltage regulator (whatever there called). Either way, don’t want to pay price for fiber optic as I only need 12-15 feet.
Interested in using monoprices new active certified 8k hdmi cable that will be available next month sometime.
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Any issues with using active hdmi cables? Heard fiber optic can fry hdmi board without a voltage regulator (whatever there called). Either way, don’t want to pay price for fiber optic as I only need 12-15 feet.
Interested in using monoprices new active certified 8k hdmi cable that will be available next month sometime.
Just need a premium certified HDMI cable at that length. We have a 15'er available.
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Just need a premium certified HDMI cable at that length. We have a 15'er available.
Thanks Mike.
haven’t really kept up with reports of the new firmware 3.10 and 3.5. Is it still recommended to put brightness setting to -1 on these projectors.
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Thanks Mike.
haven’t really kept up with reports of the new firmware 3.10 and 3.5. Is it still recommended to put brightness setting to -1 on these projectors.
0 or -1 is usually correct.
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It's always best to use a test pattern. There are several free ones available that you can use to check.
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I'm really excited about trying out the DTM on the RS2000 once it arrives. I'm coming from the RS500 where it was a chore to get HDR viewable (helped immensley by Manni's curves and others who spent countless hours creating work-arounds for the technology.)
Bill
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I'm really excited about trying out the DTM on the RS2000 once it arrives. I'm coming from the RS500 where it was a chore to get HDR viewable (helped immensley by Manni's curves and others who spent countless hours creating work-arounds for the technology.)
Bill
Soon. :)
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Soon. :)
Boy, you weren't kidding!8)
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I'm really excited about trying out the DTM on the RS2000 once it arrives. I'm coming from the RS500 where it was a chore to get HDR viewable (helped immensley by Manni's curves and others who spent countless hours creating work-arounds for the technology.)
Bill
Congrats. Can’t wait to receive my rs1000 as well. I would of liked to have gotten the rs2000 or even the rs3000 but funds were an issue.
Next upgrade for me will be when JVC laser comes out at more affordable options.
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Going to receiving my rs1000 soon, within a day or two, and had a quick question.
Regarding cinema and the user 1-6 presets. For 3D, it’s recommended to either use 1 of these and set them for 6500k and rec709. I read in a review somewhere that the user presets are 100-150 lumens brighter than cinema in high lamp.
Now to my question. Since I’m not calibrating my projector, can I still use the user presets? Same settings regarding color and such as long as both are set for 6500k and rec709
Thanks guys. Never used the user presets before
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Ok. Been reading manni’s setting for gamma. For sdr he recommends 2.4 or custom with a +3 correction value. Did that.
Now for hdr, he recommends a gamma of 2.4. Where do I go to select gamma for hdr? Is this no longer an option since firmware 3.10 as its dynamic now?
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Gamma is used with SDR. Many use SDR2020 to display HDR material as it works very good with the external processors such as MadVR and the Lumagen Pro. If you are using the JVC for DTM select HDR10 and use the frame by frame tone mapping.
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While waiting for the next batch of NX7's to arrive, I've decided to replace my screen. Can you help me decide? Currently I have a 108" diagonal 16x9 screen. Throw Distance is 15-feet. I'd like to project CIH on a 2.35:1 screen. My choices are a 133" or a 115" diagonal Draper screen. The 115" is actually less square feet than my current 108". The 133 is 25% more area than the 108.
Here's my question: will I be able to achieve a sharp image is I use the Zoom method on the 133" screen. A 25% increase in size seems like a lot, though I'm currently showing a nice bright image at 108" on my DLA-x790r. My concern is loosing sharpness if I jump to 133".
Also, I'm considering 2 screen materials from Draper's TecVision line: an ALR grey with 0.9 gain, and an ALR grey with 1.3 gain. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance!
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While waiting for the next batch of NX7's to arrive, I've decided to replace my screen. Can you help me decide? Currently I have a 108" diagonal 16x9 screen. Throw Distance is 15-feet. I'd like to project CIH on a 2.35:1 screen. My choices are a 133" or a 115" diagonal Draper screen. The 115" is actually less square feet than my current 108". The 133 is 25% more area than the 108.
Here's my question: will I be able to achieve a sharp image is I use the Zoom method on the 133" screen. A 25% increase in size seems like a lot, though I'm currently showing a nice bright image at 108" on my DLA-x790r. My concern is loosing sharpness if I jump to 133".
Also, I'm considering 2 screen materials from Draper's TecVision line: an ALR grey with 0.9 gain, and an ALR grey with 1.3 gain. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance!
I used the zoom method for years. Yes, the picture will be just as sharp on a 133" scope screen I currently have a 128" diagonal scope screen. As for those Draper materials, I'm not familiar with them.
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Why a grey screen? I've always felt a grey screen was a crutch for a low-contrast DLP and not needed with a high-contrast projector.
Are you going to have the projector properly calibrated?
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Why a grey screen? I've always felt a grey screen was a crutch for a low-contrast DLP and not needed with a high-contrast projector.
Are you going to have the projector properly calibrated?
Good Question. The NX7 has less native contrast than my current x790r. I thought a grey screen, 0.9 gain, would help restore some of the lost contrast. At one time I had a Stewart Firehawk (grey) screen and absolutely loved the "pop" it provided. My thought was to try to get closer to the look of the Firehawk, but without the premium Stewart price. Does this make sense or should I go for a white screen with 1.3 gain? In some ways, choosing a screen is harder than choosing a projector. Most of us keep our screen longer than our projector. Yes, once the projector reaches 100+ hours, it will be calibrated by an ISF certified calibrator. I still like using JVC Auto Calibration, but only for Gamma droop.
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Grey screens don't give you more contrast if your room has light control. They may make blacks darker, but they also make whites and colors equally darker. I'd get a StudioTek 130 G4 - at least get samples. We can send you some if you want.
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Grey screens don't give you more contrast if your room has light control. They may make blacks darker, but they also make whites and colors equally darker. I'd get a StudioTek 130 G4 - at least get samples. We can send you some if you want.
Thanks, Craig, in the past I've found sample size pieces of screen material are not of sufficient size to be terribly revealing (at least to me). The arguments against using Grey material is compelling. I'm ordering the Draper counterpart of the Stewart 130 (TecVision XT1300X White). One of my business Client's is an A/V retailer/ISF installer and Draper is the line they sell. Whenever possible, I try to give business to my Clients, particularly when they are local (and deliver/install).;)
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RS2000/NX7
I am having a very annoying problem, that seems to be caused by low frequency sounds at louder playback levels. While I am watching movies and a exciting LFE moment happens the video cuts out on my projector and I have a blank screen while the projector re-syncs. Most of the time the sound continues, but sometimes it kicks out as well. It really is worse than it sounds because it happens at the most dynamic scenes. I have tried the the different HDMI ports on both the receiver (Denon 6700h) and NX-7 and really did not notice a difference. It will happen regardless of source...oppo 103D, ATV 4K, or Panny 420. I have replaced the Monoprice 4k60hz with RuiPro fiber 4k60hz cable running from the receiver to the ceiling mounted projector and that did not solve the problem.
Any ideas on what to check next?
I was convinced it was the disc skipping from the subwoofer vibrations but that does not seem to be the case.
To make matters worse...it doesn't happen when I turn the volume down ;D. Sometimes it will happen at less than 80db if the LFE is low enough.
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Grey screens don't give you more contrast if your room has light control. They may make blacks darker, but they also make whites and colors equally darker. I'd get a StudioTek 130 G4 - at least get samples. We can send you some if you want.
Currently, I have a 106" (16:9) Elite Screens CineGrey 5D, which is great for ALR (ambient light rejection). I'm moving houses soon, and the new home will have a dedicated, light-controlled room in the basement, so I no longer need ALR. I'm looking to get a 16:9 135" screen. The width of the new HT room is narrow (around 11.25'), and the room's length will be around 21'. I'm interested in an acoustically transparent screen so I can take full advantage of the width of the room, and also so that the center channel can be raised up since I'd like a 2nd row of seating (tiered up 8" or so). First row will probably be around 9' to 10' from screen.
I was looking at Stewart's web site, and it says that the StudioTek 130 G4 "can be perforated"?:
https://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/en/materials/studiotek-130-g4
Anyone have experience on the perforated version of this screen? Wondering how much it adds to the cost.
Alternatively, anyone have other suggestions for acoustically transparent screens?
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RS2000/NX7
I am having a very annoying problem, that seems to be caused by low frequency sounds at louder playback levels. While I am watching movies and a exciting LFE moment happens the video cuts out on my projector and I have a blank screen while the projector re-syncs. Most of the time the sound continues, but sometimes it kicks out as well. It really is worse than it sounds because it happens at the most dynamic scenes. I have tried the the different HDMI ports on both the receiver (Denon 6700h) and NX-7 and really did not notice a difference. It will happen regardless of source...oppo 103D, ATV 4K, or Panny 420. I have replaced the Monoprice 4k60hz with RuiPro fiber 4k60hz cable running from the receiver to the ceiling mounted projector and that did not solve the problem.
Any ideas on what to check next?
I was convinced it was the disc skipping from the subwoofer vibrations but that does not seem to be the case.
To make matters worse...it doesn't happen when I turn the volume down ;D. Sometimes it will happen at less than 80db if the LFE is low enough.
Is it possible that low frequency sounds at loud playback levels is putting a strain on your power source, whether on the surge protector or the circuit itself? Can you try plugging in your subwoofer (or amp) to a differenct circuit than the projector?
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Randman,
Thanks a bunch for the reply and suggestion...I will give that a try as soon as I get home!
In the past I have been surprised just how few circuits there actually are in my house.
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Currently, I have a 106" (16:9) Elite Screens CineGrey 5D, which is great for ALR (ambient light rejection). I'm moving houses soon, and the new home will have a dedicated, light-controlled room in the basement, so I no longer need ALR. I'm looking to get a 16:9 135" screen. The width of the new HT room is narrow (around 11.25'), and the room's length will be around 21'. I'm interested in an acoustically transparent screen so I can take full advantage of the width of the room, and also so that the center channel can be raised up since I'd like a 2nd row of seating (tiered up 8" or so). First row will probably be around 9' to 10' from screen.
I was looking at Stewart's web site, and it says that the StudioTek 130 G4 "can be perforated"?:
https://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/en/materials/studiotek-130-g4
Anyone have experience on the perforated version of this screen? Wondering how much it adds to the cost.
Alternatively, anyone have other suggestions for acoustically transparent screens?
It adds quite a bit of cost. Mike or myself could give you pricing - email us. There is also the V6 and V7 screen material - Screen Acoustics V6 - AVS Discussions (avscience.com) (https://discuss.avscience.com/index.php?board=34.0)
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Is it possible that low frequency sounds at loud playback levels is putting a strain on your power source, whether on the surge protector or the circuit itself? Can you try plugging in your subwoofer (or amp) to a differenct circuit than the projector?
The projector is on my garage circuit and everything else (receiver and subwoofers) are on the living room circuit.
I was really hoping that was it, but I will have to keep testing.
Thanks again,
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The projector is on my garage circuit and everything else (receiver and subwoofers) are on the living room circuit.
I was really hoping that was it, but I will have to keep testing.
Thanks again,
Have you tried putting the projector on the same circuit as everything else? Moving plugs to different outlets is a good troubleshooting practice. Do you have a line-conditioner? You could also plug the projector into that. While it is possible that the problem is a reaction to vibrations to the projector mount, I'd look for other solutions first. Few, if ever, have posted of a similar problem as yours. That leads me back to power supplies. Good Luck.
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Thanks JohnG,
I have not tried the projector on the same circuit as everything else. Honestly I never even considered it might be power related. That is about the only thing I have not tried or replaced. Crutchfield replaced my panny, and RUIPRO replaced my cable so I am fairly confidant those aren't the problem. I had dual 8ft copper grounding rods replaced and connected to my box...I was running out of ideas.
I don't use a line-conditioner, I have always heard that we have very reliable electrical service in my city. Is there a way I can check the quality? I can see the nuclear power plant from my town lol
I'll try running the cord from the pj back into my living-room and see if that fixes it.
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Thanks JohnG,
I have not tried the projector on the same circuit as everything else. Honestly I never even considered it might be power related. That is about the only thing I have not tried or replaced. Crutchfield replaced my panny, and RUIPRO replaced my cable so I am fairly confidant those aren't the problem. I had dual 8ft copper grounding rods replaced and connected to my box...I was running out of ideas.
I don't use a line-conditioner, I have always heard that we have very reliable electrical service in my city. Is there a way I can check the quality? I can see the nuclear power plant from my town lol
I'll try running the cord from the pj back into my living-room and see if that fixes it.
You said it varies with dB so what happens when you mute your AVR? Does it go away completely? In general, is it repeatable? If so, I’d try eliminating variables. For example, can you move your disc player near the projector to swap HDMI runs between projector and AVR?
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You said it varies with dB so what happens when you mute your AVR? Does it go away completely? In general, is it repeatable? If so, I’d try eliminating variables. For example, can you move your disc player near the projector to swap HDMI runs between projector and AVR?
Also, another experiment would be to unplug the subwoofer. I would expect that you also won't have the problem if the subwoofer is unplugged. Then maybe try plugging the subwoofer to another circuit altogether (if available) and see if the behavior changes?
In my HT, I have two dedicated 20 amp circuit (20 amp circuits support up to 2400 watts while 15 amp circuits support up to 1800 watts):
1. One circuit is for the projector, a subwoofer, and a Buttkicker amp for Clark Tactile Transducers (4). In a worse case scenario (highly unlikely), they can use up to 2020 watts.
2. My second circuit powers everything else (processor, a second subwoofer, two 5x200 amplifiers, processor, etc.). In the worse case, if all equipment connected to this circuit were to max their power usage (based on manufacturer's specs), they would use 2,686 watts, which is more than the 2400 watts the circuit supports. But that's theoretical worse case scenario, and I have never run into this issue. Maybe if I listen at reference level with really heavy bass material, I may come close to the 2400 watt max.
Now, if you have 15 amp circuits, they only support 1800 watts each, and if the circuit is shared with other things (like stuff in the living room, etc.), then it may be possible to exceed the 1800 watts. However, if your circuit breaker isn't tripping, then maybe not, but it's possible transient subwoofer peaks aren't long enough to trigger the circuit breaker? Or maybe your surge proctector or power conditioner can't handle the load?
The only things I can think of is power issue, or vibration from the subwoofer. Or, maybe an issue with the subwoofer that's causing it to suck a lot of power beyond manufacturer specs? I have an SVS SB-3000 subwoofer, and the maximum theoretical power it can use is 800 watts, so it's still well below what the circuit can handle, but if you start adding up everything that is plugged into the circuit (or line conditioner?) it can add up...
EDIT: one more thought: maybe some sort of loose cable connection that is affected by vibrations?
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Thanks so much for your patience guys,
I know how frustrating it can be dealing with people who do not completely understand things and cling to wrong assumptions early on like I did.
On "opening night" (after I got my new projector, screen and receiver connected) I had friends over to watch "Lucy" and at the most exciting part we felt the floor rumble and the screen went blank and had to re-sync. My friend said "The disk just skipped" and I just got stuck on that. I have been unable to correctly diagnose the problem with very advanced troubleshooting over the phone.
After reading all of the posts this morning I got to work with more testing. The easiest repeatable way for me to cause the problem was Dolby "Amaze". I have it on disc and can stream it through youtube ATV or Panny app. At the 37 second mark "Powerful Bass" it would knock out the video at -10MV for the panny and oppo player, -0 for ATV youtube app and Panny player youtube app.
With the disc in I muted the receiver and it played fine (no sound)
I shut off front subs and it played fine, turned them on and turned back sub off and it played fine at -10MV
Then played it with 3 subs and it kicked out.
I unplugged the rear sub from the outlet in the living room and ran it to a different circuit with a extension cord to kitchen. Played the track at -10MV no problem then went full blown reference at -0 and it played no problem. Interestingly it peaked at 105dbc on my checkmate spl meter :). Everything looked, sounded and felt like I dreamed it would.
I have outlets all the way around my living room but they all go to the same 15A circuit in my basement. I suppose I should at least have the outlet on the back wall (with the dual sub) ran to its own circuit?
I just never considered the power because I did not trip the breaker. I guess I must be getting close enough to cause problems...or do I still need to do more testing?
I have 1/3rd basement 2/3rd crawl. The area under the living room is finished in basement but the back wall is in the crawl and not far from the electrical box, so that really seems like the easiest one to work with. My garage is on the other side of screen wall.
Thanks again randman, JohnG, and jkasanic.
before this I had a ground loop hum that a real pain to figure out...I should be gtg now though :)
(https://i.imgur.com/4BPeyyZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kFT8TvO.jpg)
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Wow - that was a tough one to figure out. I had an electrician run 2 circuits to my theater initially, and the outlets in the bonus room we are using luckily were on their own circuit to begin with. You just can't have too much power.
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Thanks so much for your patience guys,
I know how frustrating it can be dealing with people who do not completely understand things and cling to wrong assumptions early on like I did.
On "opening night" (after I got my new projector, screen and receiver connected) I had friends over to watch "Lucy" and at the most exciting part we felt the floor rumble and the screen went blank and had to re-sync. My friend said "The disk just skipped" and I just got stuck on that. I have been unable to correctly diagnose the problem with very advanced troubleshooting over the phone.
After reading all of the posts this morning I got to work with more testing. The easiest repeatable way for me to cause the problem was Dolby "Amaze". I have it on disc and can stream it through youtube ATV or Panny app. At the 37 second mark "Powerful Bass" it would knock out the video at -10MV for the panny and oppo player, -0 for ATV youtube app and Panny player youtube app.
With the disc in I muted the receiver and it played fine (no sound)
I shut off front subs and it played fine, turned them on and turned back sub off and it played fine at -10MV
Then played it with 3 subs and it kicked out.
I unplugged the rear sub from the outlet in the living room and ran it to a different circuit with a extension cord to kitchen. Played the track at -10MV no problem then went full blown reference at -0 and it played no problem. Interestingly it peaked at 105dbc on my checkmate spl meter :). Everything looked, sounded and felt like I dreamed it would.
I have outlets all the way around my living room but they all go to the same 15A circuit in my basement. I suppose I should at least have the outlet on the back wall (with the dual sub) ran to its own circuit?
I just never considered the power because I did not trip the breaker. I guess I must be getting close enough to cause problems...or do I still need to do more testing?
I have 1/3rd basement 2/3rd crawl. The area under the living room is finished in basement but the back wall is in the crawl and not far from the electrical box, so that really seems like the easiest one to work with. My garage is on the other side of screen wall.
Thanks again randman, JohnG, and jkasanic.
before this I had a ground loop hum that a real pain to figure out...I should be gtg now though :)
(https://i.imgur.com/4BPeyyZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kFT8TvO.jpg)
Nice setup. You've got me thinking and the fact that all subs and no problems occur when you changed AC outlets certainly points to a power problem. One thing you could/should do is put your Projector on a line conditionr/UPS back-up. IMHO, every projector should be plugged into a UPS back-up. That allows the projector to complete its shut down cycle properly if you loose power. Sudden power loss with no 'cool down' is a surefire way to shorten a Projectors life span, particularly the bulb. Another thought: is the circuit you've got the Projector plugged into (your garage circuit if I recall correctly), using a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interupt). It's not logical that this would cause a power fluctuation in your Projector, but it's worth looking at. You've made good steps at troubleshooting. That all worked properly when you plugged gear into different outputs seems to indicate that it's a power line problem. Keep hunting it down.
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Then played it with 3 subs and it kicked out.
I unplugged the rear sub from the outlet in the living room and ran it to a different circuit with a extension cord to kitchen. Played the track at -10MV no problem then went full blown reference at -0 and it played no problem. Interestingly it peaked at 105dbc on my checkmate spl meter :). Everything looked, sounded and felt like I dreamed it would.
I have outlets all the way around my living room but they all go to the same 15A circuit in my basement. I suppose I should at least have the outlet on the back wall (with the dual sub) ran to its own circuit?
I just never considered the power because I did not trip the breaker. I guess I must be getting close enough to cause problems...or do I still need to do more testing?
I have 1/3rd basement 2/3rd crawl. The area under the living room is finished in basement but the back wall is in the crawl and not far from the electrical box, so that really seems like the easiest one to work with. My garage is on the other side of screen wall.
Thanks again randman, JohnG, and jkasanic.
before this I had a ground loop hum that a real pain to figure out...I should be gtg now though :)
Ahh. I can see how 3 subs can be a power issue. Yeah, maybe the high transient power use due to the subs was short enough not to trip the circuit. A while ago, some of my home theater equipment was on the same circuit as a microwave, and occasionally, using the microwave (to make popcorn for the movie) and home theater at the same time would trip the circuit. That’s when I decided to put two dedicated 20 amp circuits in my HT room. I also got this so I can use my UPS with my projector:
https://www.panamax.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/miw_powerkit_pro_datasheet.pdf
Glad you’venarrowed down your problem.
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Ahh. I can see how 3 subs can be a power issue. Yeah, maybe the high transient power use due to the subs was short enough not to trip the circuit. A while ago, some of my home theater equipment was on the same circuit as a microwave, and occasionally, using the microwave (to make popcorn for the movie) and home theater at the same time would trip the circuit. That’s when I decided to put two dedicated 20 amp circuits in my HT room. I also got this so I can use my UPS with my projector:
https://www.panamax.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/miw_powerkit_pro_datasheet.pdf
Glad you’venarrowed down your problem.
I have six subs on the same circuit. Lucky for me, nothing else is on that circuit except a popcorn machine - which always gets used before the movie starts !
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One thing you could/should do is put your Projector on a line conditionr/UPS back-up. IMHO, every projector should be plugged into a UPS back-up.
100% agreed with that, and I'd add any sensitive electronics or things you want always on (like a DVR, networking gear, or server) should also be on a UPS. I go through periods where my power has no issues for months then one week it's firing up my UPSs briefly, several times a day.
I have six subs on the same circuit. Lucky for me, nothing else is on that circuit except a popcorn machine - which always gets used before the movie starts !
Yeah, but is that single circuit a 15 amp or 20 amp one?
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Thanks for the advice and compliments guys.
I knew there were so many people with so much more "firepower" (subwoofers and amplifiers) in suspended rooms that were not having this problem. Now I know why.
If I had any idea when I started with this hobby where I was going to end up, I would have had the electrician wire accordingly years ago (or at least sometime before now:)). I just keep wanting "a little more".
Good advice on the UPS and thanks for the link to the example also. It really is kind of funny that I drew the line for additional spending at a UPS lol. I looked at them years ago and decided it wasn't worth it, I probably should have revisited that decision a while back since so much has changed.
After I get this power thing solved, it should be smooth sailing for a while now.
Regards,
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100% agreed with that, and I'd add any sensitive electronics or things you want always on (like a DVR, networking gear, or server) should also be on a UPS. I go through periods where my power has no issues for months then one week it's firing up my UPSs briefly, several times a day.
Yeah, but is that single circuit a 15 amp or 20 amp one?
One of the SB4000's is on one of the dedicated 20 amp theater circuits come to think of it. Every circuit in our house is 20 amp. They over-built the house - it was built by a custom builder for himself. All 20 amp circuits, all 2 x 6 construction, all walls fully insulated ( interior too ), all solid core doors!
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One of the SB4000's is on one of the dedicated 20 amp theater circuits come to think of it. Every circuit in our house is 20 amp. They over-built the house - it was built by a custom builder for himself. All 20 amp circuits, all 2 x 6 construction, all walls fully insulated ( interior too ), all solid core doors!
ALL 20 Amp Circuits? WOW! When putting my room together I told my electrical contractor that I wanted at least 15amp circuits. He looked at me and said "Only Hospitals use that kind of circuit...and it'll cost more". He didn't have much interest in Home Theater. One of my regrets is pushing through the remodel instead of taking all the sheet rock down, properly insulating with sound deadening material, put boxes in for in-wall speakers, perfectly position the surrounds and Atmos speakers, and put in high powered electrical circuits. Of course, I only use 2 subs and have never had any trouble. Then again, I'm an old dude and no longer crank it up to Reference Level. :)
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RS2000/NX7
I am having a very annoying problem, that seems to be caused by low frequency sounds at louder playback levels. While I am watching movies and a exciting LFE moment happens the video cuts out on my projector and I have a blank screen while the projector re-syncs. Most of the time the sound continues, but sometimes it kicks out as well. It really is worse than it sounds because it happens at the most dynamic scenes. I have tried the the different HDMI ports on both the receiver (Denon 6700h) and NX-7 and really did not notice a difference. It will happen regardless of source...oppo 103D, ATV 4K, or Panny 420. I have replaced the Monoprice 4k60hz with RuiPro fiber 4k60hz cable running from the receiver to the ceiling mounted projector and that did not solve the problem.
Any ideas on what to check next?
I was convinced it was the disc skipping from the subwoofer vibrations but that does not seem to be the case.
To make matters worse...it doesn't happen when I turn the volume down ;D. Sometimes it will happen at less than 80db if the LFE is low enough.
My guess is loose HDMI cable. Unplug and plug each end of each cable a half dozen times. This will remove any corrosion and give you good contact. Also make sure HDMI cables are seated securely.
Added
I see that it did end up being a power problem. Glad you solved it.
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One of the SB4000's is on one of the dedicated 20 amp theater circuits come to think of it. Every circuit in our house is 20 amp. They over-built the house - it was built by a custom builder for himself. All 20 amp circuits, all 2 x 6 construction, all walls fully insulated ( interior too ), all solid core doors!
Sounds a lot like my house, 20 amp breakers, 2x6 walls with an extra 1" of insulation board on the outside and solid core doors. Hollow core doors are a pet peeve of mine.
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My guess is loose HDMI cable. Unplug and plug each end of each cable a half dozen times. This will remove any corrosion and give you good contact. Also make sure HDMI cables are seated securely.
Added
I see that it did end up being a power problem. Glad you solved it.
Mike, I will add your your solution to my list of things to try while troubleshooting problems. Thank you, that would be a easy one to forget it after you plug it in the first time.
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One of the SB4000's is on one of the dedicated 20 amp theater circuits come to think of it. Every circuit in our house is 20 amp. They over-built the house - it was built by a custom builder for himself. All 20 amp circuits, all 2 x 6 construction, all walls fully insulated ( interior too ), all solid core doors!
What a nice find that house (fortress) was! That must have helped make the decision process easier.
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What a nice find that house (fortress) was! That must have helped make the decision process easier.
Total accidental find. It was out of our price range too, but the market was falling ( 2008 ) and it came down right when we looked at it. It had the 3 things we needed - a place for a walk in wine cellar, a place for a good home theater setup, and a place for an indoor climbing wall !
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That second picture makes me thirsty!! :P
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Total accidental find. It was out of our price range too, but the market was falling ( 2008 ) and it came down right when we looked at it. It had the 3 things we needed - a place for a walk in wine cellar, a place for a good home theater setup, and a place for an indoor climbing wall !
What a find!
Any ONE of those 3 things would be cool...some guys have all the luck:)
Awesome pics, the girl looks 15ft+ off the ground!
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What a find!
Any ONE of those 3 things would be cool...some guys have all the luck:)
Awesome pics, the girl looks 15ft+ off the ground!
I am lucky - and that climbing wall is about 22' tall.
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Late to the game, but better late than never! Our NX-7 arrived and we swapped our old JVC RS-x790 for the new one. Wow! I thought the x790 was large but the NX-7 dwarfs it, yet it's only a few pounds heavier. Thank you JVC for making the ceiling mount holes the same. That made the "swap" fairly easy. We had more problems with getting the projector properly positioned in the mount, jockeying it back and forth to get the screen geometry correct.
Firing up the projector and performing the initial set up was easy for anyone who's owned a JVC in the past. It was easy to set up a CIH 2:35 setting using the Zoom method and record it in Memory plus a unique 16x9 setting. Initial Impressions: this is indeed an upgrade. The image is sharper. My wife and I had watched a couple of movies the day before and threw them up as the first images displayed. Yes, we both immediately noted that the images were sharper. Colors, out-of-the-box, seemed a bit cool but they also appeared to be very natural. It should be mentioned that we also changed screens, but were able to look at content on the new screen with the old projector before we made the projector swap. We went from a 108" 16x9 screen to a 132" 2.35:1 Draper TechVision 1300 screen and use CIH for Cinemascope films. I used the Natural setting for HD BluRay and concentrated on similar content for the initial setup and evaluation. I always want to see a film that I've watched a number of times before as a good way to evaluate changes to our system. In this case, the NX7 is a winner. I'll post more observations after we've had a chance to view some 4K discs.
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The Home Theater Optimizer (via firmware 3.5) is a game changer. It almost makes the current production models of the NX7 an entirely new projector. Once you've entered information about your screen size and screen gain (note: special sizing for Scope screens). When you turn the Home Theater Optimizer "ON", a number of traditional settings, such as GAMMA, are no longer available. You've got to turn it "OFF" if you want to get to those controls. Out-of-the-Box, the image is incredible. And I thought the image from my x790 looked good. This blows it out of the water. I kept thinking "I've got to make adjustments", but I'm finding there is no need. 4K discs look incredible. The detail and accuracy of color are a major upgrade. The Home Theater Optimizer appears to work that well. After spending hours with my previous JVC projectors trying to dial in the colors, I found there was no need. The colors look amazingly accurate out-of-the-box, if you turn on the Home Theater Optimizer. What this also means is that meaningful changes are moving to JVC's AutoCal Software. That will be one of my next tasks. I'm really surprised that moving from the x790 to the NX7 has made that much of a difference. It has.
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The Home Theater Optimizer (via firmware 3.5) is a game changer. It almost makes the current production models of the NX7 an entirely new projector. Once you've entered information about your screen size and screen gain (note: special sizing for Scope screens). When you turn the Home Theater Optimizer "ON", a number of traditional settings, such as GAMMA, are no longer available. You've got to turn it "OFF" if you want to get to those controls. Out-of-the-Box, the image is incredible. And I thought the image from my x790 looked good. This blows it out of the water. I kept thinking "I've got to make adjustments", but I'm finding there is no need. 4K discs look incredible. The detail and accuracy of color are a major upgrade. The Home Theater Optimizer appears to work that well. After spending hours with my previous JVC projectors trying to dial in the colors, I found there was no need. The colors look amazingly accurate out-of-the-box, if you turn on the Home Theater Optimizer. What this also means is that meaningful changes are moving to JVC's AutoCal Software. That will be one of my next tasks. I'm really surprised that moving from the x790 to the NX7 has made that much of a difference. It has.
It really is. JVC could have released a " new model " with this firmware in it, but made both existing owners and new owners like you happy at the same time. It was a great decision on JVC's part.
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Hello,
I am new here and just bought NX5 last week and trying to figure out the throw distance. I see different information on JVC and Projector central. Appreciate if anyone here can help me with information or point me to a thread if it was answered already.
My requirements:
- Aspect Ratio: 16:9
- Size of screen( diagonal) : 135''
- Ceiling mount (Chief mount bought from Av science with 3'' pipe connection)
- 9 foot ceiling Height
- Top of the screen from ceiling is 1 feet
Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Hello,
I am new here and just bought NX5 last week and trying to figure out the throw distance. I see different information on JVC and Projector central. Appreciate if anyone here can help me with information or point me to a thread if it was answered already.
My requirements:
- Aspect Ratio: 16:9
- Size of screen( diagonal) : 135''
- Ceiling mount (Chief mount bought from Av science with 3'' pipe connection)
- 9 foot ceiling Height
- Top of the screen from ceiling is 1 feet
Any help is greatly appreciated.
JVC Projector | Projection Calculator | JVC
(http://pro.jvc.com/pro/lens_calc/HTML/jvc_REF.html)168.9" - 343.31" ( 14.075' - 28.6' ).
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JVC Projector | Projection Calculator | JVC
(http://pro.jvc.com/pro/lens_calc/HTML/jvc_REF.html)168.9" - 343.31" ( 14.075' - 28.6' ).
Much appreciated AVSCraig.
It is range from 14 to 28 feet. that is why I was confused. please excuse my immature questions. My main seating distance is 16 feet from the screen and I have 5 feet room behind my seating too. what will be the best distance to mount the projector please. do I need to use the zoom to fill the 135 inch screen if I start at 14.075'. what are the pros and cons if I have to use the zoom feature to fill the 135'' screen please.
Thank you in advance!
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Much appreciated AVSCraig.
It is range from 14 to 28 feet. that is why I was confused. please excuse my immature questions. My main seating distance is 16 feet from the screen and I have 5 feet room behind my seating too. what will be the best distance to mount the projector please. do I need to use the zoom to fill the 135 inch screen if I start at 14.075'. what are the pros and cons if I have to use the zoom feature to fill the 135'' screen please.
Thank you in advance!
What kind of screen material do you have? I sit 10' from a 122" diagonal 16:9 screen, and under 10' from my 128" diagonal 2.35:1 screen. You could easily sit closer, especially to get the full benefit of 4K resolution. Also, your screen material may have a minimum lens to screen throw distance to prevent hot spotting. And yes, you will use the zoom and the lens shift to align the projector onto the screen - that's normal. No different than using a zoom lens in a camera to align a shot.
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What kind of screen material do you have? I sit 10' from a 122" diagonal 16:9 screen, and under 10' from my 128" diagonal 2.35:1 screen. You could easily sit closer, especially to get the full benefit of 4K resolution. Also, your screen material may have a minimum lens to screen throw distance to prevent hot spotting. And yes, you will use the zoom and the lens shift to align the projector onto the screen - that's normal. No different than using a zoom lens in a camera to align a shot.
Thank you for your quick and helpful responses. Great to hear zoom feature won't have any impact. I didn't finalize on a screen yet and still shopping and considering different options. I am leaning more towards flexiGray from Carlsplace if not the silverticket gray from sliver ticket products. Appreciate if you can guide me on a better comparable screen that would work better for NX5/RS1000.
Also is there an advantage/disadvantage of ceiling mounting the projector around 17/18 feet distance from the screen over 14feet from a 135'' screen. since that distance would play well looks wise in my room.
Again greatly appreciate your help. I am very new to projector world and I am learning it all new.
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Thank you for your quick and helpful responses. Great to hear zoom feature won't have any impact. I didn't finalize on a screen yet and still shopping and considering different options. I am leaning more towards flexiGray from Carlsplace if not the silverticket gray from sliver ticket products. Appreciate if you can guide me on a better comparable screen that would work better for NX5/RS1000.
Also is there an advantage/disadvantage of ceiling mounting the projector around 17/18 feet distance from the screen over 14feet from a 135'' screen. since that distance would play well looks wise in my room.
Again greatly appreciate your help. I am very new to projector world and I am learning it all new.
I would not mount the projector at the absolute closest to the inch throw. 17 - 18 feet is the better option.
Do you need a gray screen? Post a photo of your room.
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I would not mount the projector at the absolute closest to the inch throw. 17 - 18 feet is the better option.
Do you need a gray screen? Post a photo of your room.
Thank you for that recommendation. Will plan for a 18 feet distance mounting.
My basement is still under construction and expected to be completed by mid May. Please ignore the mess on the pictures. I am attaching few pictures here. I do have a morning room with windows to the right side of the screen, also that is 16 foot wide which is why I am moving my main seating to 16 feet. I am planning to apply window treatments to block the majority of light during the day.
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I have a physical measurement question that I cannot seem to find anywhere. What is the measurement from the outside of the feet in each direction? I am in a rental and use a portable projection table.
I have my Vango sitting on it now but It is 10 years old and acting up again. So it may be time. Variable this year is does it stop acting up for a while or do we have to move. Landlord issues and may be buying a house. Not likely but possible.
On the bright side, my Vango still looks good on HD broadcast. (when it works)
Will also need to replace my pre/pro as it does not pass 4K. Again, this may be the year.
Got pretty good value out of the Vango. Less than $85 per month, if it dies today, for something we use daily. A bunch less than the cable bill.
I know I shouldn't have fully funded my 401K. I could have been watching my new projector. :) I could have purchased the 4500 if I did not take advantage of the makeup provision.
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I have a physical measurement question that I cannot seem to find anywhere. What is the measurement from the outside of the feet in each direction? I am in a rental and use a portable projection table.
I have my Vango sitting on it now but It is 10 years old and acting up again. So it may be time. Variable this year is does it stop acting up for a while or do we have to move. Landlord issues and may be buying a house. Not likely but possible.
On the bright side, my Vango still looks good on HD broadcast. (when it works)
Will also need to replace my pre/pro as it does not pass 4K. Again, this may be the year.
Got pretty good value out of the Vango. Less than $85 per month, if it dies today, for something we use daily. A bunch less than the cable bill.
I know I shouldn't have fully funded my 401K. I could have been watching my new projector. :) I could have purchased the 4500 if I did not take advantage of the makeup provision.
Maybe someone with one that has one will chime in. This is the best I can do -
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Thanks for those. I can work with the Center to center measures.
K
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I can't imagine the feet adding more than 1 1/2" total in each direction ( outside of foot to outside of foot ).
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Hi everyone.
This is my first post on this forum and not for a good reason. Recently bought NX7, I like the image overall but noticed some sort of light bar on the right side of the screen. I thought it could be related to screen or room reflections, but it moves along with image while I'm shifting it right or left. Most visible on the dark screen but also during the movies. Did anyone had such a problem before or basically any ideas what it could possibly be?
Thanks for your answers guys.
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Can you show a picture with the shift grid pattern showing? Also what size and gain is your screen? What lamp power and iris setting are you using?
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Hi everyone.
This is my first post on this forum and not for a good reason. Recently bought NX7, I like the image overall but noticed some sort of light bar on the right side of the screen. I thought it could be related to screen or room reflections, but it moves along with image while I'm shifting it right or left. Most visible on the dark screen but also during the movies. Did anyone had such a problem before or basically any ideas what it could possibly be?
Thanks for your answers guys.
Well really I don't know for that projector. What I will say is that it looks just like my RS15U (now 10-years old) which posts on the internet indicate that one of my filters has "slid" off center ... which causes coloration in the image down one edge. Just like your picture. Good luck ... if no one has a better suggestion, I'd try for a warranty repair asap.
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B-stocks have started flowing again. :) Call for info.
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I got suddenly got color banding tonight. Restarting the projector made it go away. Hoping this is not a sign of bad things to come. In the last couple of years I had to coax the Vango. I am hoping that I don't have to constantly worry about this projector.
I know warranty and all but I just want to catch a break and have things work from the get go.
I guess time will tell but it did pretty much ruin my relaxation this evening.
hoping for the best.
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I got suddenly got color banding tonight. Restarting the projector made it go away. Hoping this is not a sign of bad things to come. In the last couple of years I had to coax the Vango. I am hoping that I don't have to constantly worry about this projector.
I know warranty and all but I just want to catch a break and have things work from the get go.
I guess time will tell but it did pretty much ruin my relaxation this evening.
hoping for the best.
Maybe it was an HDMI sync gremlin. Hard to say.
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I am hoping that is all it is but, time will tell.
HDMI or more correctly the HDCP2.x part of it has had and continues to have issues even though the pro crooks can get around it.
If only we could just use straight HDMI without that false sense of security processing.
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Hey there everyone
Guess I have not posted in soooo long that the AVSForum is different and my old UN is erased. I used to be pretty active but life, business, family and all. So here I am with Post #1......
Anyhow, I'm receiving an RS2000 B-stock today from AVS to replace my 15 yr old Marantz 11s2. Guess I got my money out of that one. Still love it but lamps are impossible to find with a female connection (rare oddity in mine). I'll start digging into the 43 pages on this thread and the rest of the forum for set up hints but if you have any specific posts you think are the most important/accurate/concise, etc, on set up, it would be great if a few links were shared here.
Cheers,
Randy
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Anyone here have an Xbox Series X and one of these JVC projectors?
If so, I'm curious what the recommended configuration settings are on the Xbox and the Projector (I have an RS1000). e.g. I believe 8-bit color space on the Xbox actually pushes 4:4:4, and I believe 10 and 12 bit do not, but I'm not quite sure how to verify that. Recommendations appreciated.