AVS Discussions
Home Theater Setups => Finished => Topic started by: AVSMike on November 15, 2016, 09:47:57 AM
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This area says finished. To tell you the truth, I don't know if a theater is ever finished. There is always something new around the corner. Anyway my current theater consists of the following.
Equipment
JVC RS4500 (sold RS4500) Now using RS3000
Panamorph DCR lens and Lumagen
Custom unistrut mounting system for projector and A-lens. Allows complete flexibility for projector and lens placement.
2.37 Screen Excellence Trim masking screen. 110" width
Marantz AV7703
Oppo 203
Furman sequencer
LCR's are 3-way active DIY
Two DBX PA2's for crossover duty
One Mini DSP 10x10HD for sub calibration and EQ
Side and back surrounds are Volt-10's
Four Volt-8's for atmos
Six sealed subs RE-XXX, 18" Malstrom-X, two 18" SI18's and two UM18-22's sealed
Ten Crown pro amps for speakers and three Behringer 6000 amps and one Crest Pro9200 for subs
Middle Atlantic rack
Harmony Ultimate remote with home link so that I can control my Z-wave lighting.
I am running a 7.1.4 system. My room has black floor, black walls and black ceiling. I also have floor to ceiling black velvet curtains on three walls and black velvet curtains above the screen with black grill cloth below the screen.
Each of my front three LCR's consist of two AE TD12M's, Beyma TPL-150H and AE TD18H+. I run these down to 40hz. The top half of the speakers (MTM) are in one box with TPL-150H sealed off from the TD12M's. The TD18H's are in another enclosure, located below the screen. This allows me to adjust the depth of the TD18H's so that the acoustic centers of the TD18H is in line with the TD12 and TPL-150H.
I have two subs (SI18's built into the baffle wall and the other four subs (18" Mal-X, 18" RE-XXX & two UM18-22's) are at the back of the room. I have bass traps in the back corners and sound panels along the side and back wall. The panels are behind my curtains. My room is not built for looks, but it is built for performance. :)
First picture is of front wall.
Second picture is front wall with grills removed from the TD18H's.
Equipment list updated 2/21/18
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Front wall with screen removed. Note that center speakers drivers are not installed. They were out for measurements for crossover design. The larger drivers in this picture are two SI18's for sub duty. The baffle wall behind the screen is covered in 1" of duct liner, with the only opening for the drivers. The baffle wall has the right and left wings at an angle so that right and left mains are pointed toward the main listening position.
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Pictures of speaker and sub enclosures, before placed in baffle wall. In the stack, the bottom two are for the SI18's and the top three are the MTM's for the TPL-150H and dual TD12M's.
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Picture of seating and projector. I have a shelf mounted right below the RS600 for demo projectors. Currently have a Vivitek H9090 on it. Note that the sound panels on my back wall are dark gray. Picture makes them look almost white.
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RS640 in use now and mounting system changed. See first post for updated picture. Back wall is now mostly covered with black velvet.
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Reserved.
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Reserved.
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Mike, you have done a great job of creating your personal Home Theater IMO, and I am sure most everyone would love to have a setup like yours. I think that finished really means that it is at the point that it was originally intended to be not necessarily completed as we all know is never really completed if we are pursuing perfection.
I was tempted when I did my setup to do a baffle wall too. I understand it is great for movies, but is it also good for music? I don't say this out of criticism, but out of curiosity as I have never heard a baffle wall setup other than in a Commercial Theater. Plus if I had went with a baffle wall I could have moved the screen closer to the front wall so it is a possible choice for my HT too.
So how does a baffle wall sound for music?
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Excellent theater, Mike! 8) The baffle wall looks menacing! Is their a diy for your lcr speakers?
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Excellent theater, Mike! 8) The baffle wall looks menacing! Is their a diy for your lcr speakers?
No, not really for the speakers. I do have more pictures. Front three are DIY 3-way active using the following drivers:
One Beyma TPL-150H: http://www.beyma.com/products/diapharagmtweeters/1TPL15H8 (http://www.beyma.com/products/diapharagmtweeters/1TPL15H8)
Two Acoustic Elegance TD12M: http://aespeakers.com/shop/td/td12m/ (http://aespeakers.com/shop/td/td12m/)
One Acoustic Elegance TD18H+: http://aespeakers.com/shop/td/td18h/ (http://aespeakers.com/shop/td/td18h/)
MiniDSP 10x10HD for crossover: https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-10x10-hd (https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-10x10-hd)
Now using a pair of DBX PA2's for crossover duty. https://dbxpro.com/en/products/driverack-pa2 (https://dbxpro.com/en/products/driverack-pa2)
The 18's cover from 40hz to 200hz. The 12's cover from 200hz to 1,400hz and the Beyma is 1,400hz and up.
The MTM boxes are pretty big. I do not have the exact measurements, but they are around 18 3/4" wide x 12" deep x 50" tall. The TD18H boxes are 42" wide x 23 3/4" H x 12" deep. The two TD12M's share common space. The TPL-150H has a separate enclosure inside the box. That allowed me to remove the back cup on the TPL-150H. I lined the interior of the cabinet with a damping material and then heavily stuffed the cabinet.
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My side surrounds and four Atmos speakers are JBL Pro 8340: http://www.jblpro.com/pub/cinema/8340.pdf (http://www.jblpro.com/pub/cinema/8340.pdf)
I originally was going to go with the 8340s for all my surrounds and Atmos, but I ended up with the 8320As for the Atmos channels as I didn't like the idea of a heavy speaker over my head. I have to admit the JBLs are awesome for surround, and Atmos speakers!
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No, not really for the speakers. I do have more pictures. Front three are DIY 3-way active using the following drivers:
One Beyma TPL-150H: http://www.beyma.com/products/diapharagmtweeters/1TPL15H8 (http://www.beyma.com/products/diapharagmtweeters/1TPL15H8)
Two Acoustic Elegance TD12M: http://aespeakers.com/shop/td/td12m/ (http://aespeakers.com/shop/td/td12m/)
One Acoustic Elegance TD18H+: http://aespeakers.com/shop/td/td18h/ (http://aespeakers.com/shop/td/td18h/)
MiniDSP 10x10HD for crossover: https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-10x10-hd (https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-10x10-hd)
The 18's cover from 40hz to 200hz. The 12's cover from 200hz to 1,400hz and the Beyma is 1,400hz and up.
The MTM boxes are pretty big. I do not have the exact measurements, but they are around 18 3/4" wide x 12" deep x 50" tall. The TD18H boxes are 42" wide x 23 3/4" H x 12" deep. The two TD12M's share common space. The TPL-150H has a separate enclosure inside the box. That allowed me to remove the back cup on the TPL-150H. I lined the interior of the cabinet with a damping material and then heavily stuffed the cabinet.
Sounds like a lot of work! I'll just stick with my JTR's. :) I will build my sealed subs though. 8)
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Bravo!
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I originally was going to go with the 8340s for all my surrounds and Atmos, but I ended up with the 8320As for the Atmos channels as I didn't like the idea of a heavy speaker over my head. I have to admit the JBLs are awesome for surround, and Atmos speakers!
They were actually pretty easy and safe to mount. The 8340's have an angled front face and they already have four threaded inserts on the back. So I cut two pieces of 5/8" light metal channel 1" longer than the width of the speaker. I then bolted the channel to the back of the speakers, so that it extended past the speaker 1/2" on each side. I then held the speaker flat against the ceiling and screwed through the channel (1/2" tabs sticking out) into blocking that I installed above the ceiling. So I safely have 40 pound Atmos speakers hanging from my ceiling.
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They were actually pretty easy and safe to mount. The 8340's have an angled front face and they already have four threaded inserts on the back. So I cut two pieces of 5/8" light metal channel 1" longer than the width of the speaker. I then bolted the channel to the back of the speakers, so that it extended past the speaker 1/2" on each side. I then held the speaker flat against the ceiling and screwed through the channel (1/2" tabs sticking out) into blocking that I installed above the ceiling. So I safely have 40 pound Atmos speakers hanging from my ceiling.
I had a friend make me some custom hinge brackets out of aluminum for our Atmos speakers. Ours are no longer angled like our surrounds are. The hinge is about 1' long on one end, and about 8" long on the other end. The brackets have pieces of tubing that are cut for spacing the speaker part that is attached to the 12" hinge side, and space it out to the 8" hinge side. When I installed it I just held the one end of the hinge up to the ceiling, and then attached that to the ceiling. I then inserted the longer screws through the other side of the hinge, slid on the aluminum tubing, and then held the speaker up to attached it to the hinge. Last part is to screw the long part of the hinge end up to the ceiling. It was a little cumbersome to do, but in the end it works fine. I hope this makes sense, but our Atmos speakers are now parallel to the ceiling instead of angled.
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Great looking HT, Mike! Your equipment list is impressive.
Is this a 2nd floor build? Did you incorporate any sound isolation into the build to help contain those massive subs? :)
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Great looking HT, Mike! Your equipment list is impressive.
Is this a 2nd floor build? Did you incorporate any sound isolation into the build to help contain those massive subs? :)
Thank you. Existing room, not new construction and the room is on the second floor. No sound deadening treatments. With the bass that I have, it would be hard to isolate this room, with it being on the second floor.
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Mike, how does a baffle wall compare to having your speakers spaced out from the wall like a traditional stereo setup? Do you get the same depth, and soundstage...is there anything special to take into consideration when building a baffle wall setup? I have thought about converting my setup to one.
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Mike, how does a baffle wall compare to having your speakers spaced out from the wall like a traditional stereo setup? Do you get the same depth, and soundstage...is there anything special to take into consideration when building a baffle wall setup? I have thought about converting my setup to one.
Rather than type of something, I will just provide you with a link listing the advantages.
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013322baffle-walls/ (http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013322baffle-walls/)
Yes, there are things you have to take into account, with a baffle wall. A lot of speakers have baffle step compensation built into the crossover. This means they could be boomy, when placed in a baffle wall. Though room correction would help that. If you are building speakers, then, just do not add baffle step compensation to the crossover.
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Rather than type of something, I will just provide you with a link listing the advantages.
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013322baffle-walls/ (http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013322baffle-walls/)
Yes, there are things you have to take into account, with a baffle wall. A lot of speakers have baffle step compensation built into the crossover. This means they could be boomy, when placed in a baffle wall. Though room correction would help that. If you are building speakers, then, just do not add baffle step compensation to the crossover.
Thanks for the link Mike. I will def read it to see if it will meet my needs better, and as you know we are building our own speakers too. ;)
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Mike, I have a question for you. Normally when people setup their room they angle the speakers, but I noticed with a baffle wall they don't...is there a reason they don't do this with a baffle wall? Would it be counterproductive to design the wall after the speakers were aimed conventionally, and make the wall conform to the speakers being angled?
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Mike, that's an incredible room! Love it. Hope my room turns out half as nice....
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Mike, I have a question for you. Normally when people setup their room they angle the speakers, but I noticed with a baffle wall they don't...is there a reason they don't do this with a baffle wall? Would it be counterproductive to design the wall after the speakers were aimed conventionally, and make the wall conform to the speakers being angled?
A lot of times, baffle walls are angled. Some even do a curve. My baffle wall is angled for the right and left mains.
http://discuss.avscience.com/?topic=124.msg905#msg905 (http://discuss.avscience.com/?topic=124.msg905#msg905)
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Mike, that's an incredible room! Love it. Hope my room turns out half as nice....
Thank you. First time I have ever gone over a year, without thinking about upgrading my speakers. :)
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A lot of times, baffle walls are angled. Some even do a curve. My baffle wall is angled for the right and left mains.
http://discuss.avscience.com/?topic=124.msg905#msg905 (http://discuss.avscience.com/?topic=124.msg905#msg905)
When you did your setup...did you set the speakers up best for soundstage by listening and then build the baffle wall around them, or was there some calculations you used?
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Based on aiming the direct sound toward the main seat. Also from measurements and listening tests using my old speakers, that had similar dispersion characteristics, in that room.
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Thanks Mike... I will be looking at either building a baffle wall for my current setup (after the new speakers are completed), or for my next HT.
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People have asked about a passive crossover design for the TPL-150H and the TD12M. Here is one that was worked up for me. I believe it is crossing over at 2,200hz. See attached.
Speaker crossover parts
Tweeter Inductor: http://www.parts-express.com/jantzen...-coil--255-030
Tweeter Cap: http://www.parts-express.com/jantzen...citor--027-932
Tweeter Resistor: http://www.parts-express.com/mills-8...esistor--005-8
Woofer inductor: http://www.parts-express.com/erse-15...-coil--266-360
Woofer cap: http://www.parts-express.com/solen-2...citor--027-582
A couple of notes, for the tweeter resistor you have some room to play. Since you're behind a screen, you can use a slightly smaller value without throwing off phase response. For example: http://www.parts-express.com/mills-7...esistor--005-7
As for the tweeter cap, if you're into boutique stuff, you can try other brands.
Added
Note that I am using active and crossing over much lower. Have been using 1,400hz 12db/oct. Today switched over to 1,200hz 12bd/oct. Will play with that a while and see what I think. The directivity should match well between the TPL-150H and the TD12M's at 1,200hz.
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Great build Mike and thank you for all the info you have shared in this thread. Your baffle wall will serve as inspiration for my next build!
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Great build Mike and thank you for all the info you have shared in this thread. Your baffle wall will serve as inspiration for my next build!
You are welcome. If I can help you with equipment, let me know. :)
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Installed a new mounting system for my projector and A-lens. Now I can install pretty much any digital projector and easily adjust A-lens to fit. :)
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Installed a new mounting system for my projector and A-lens. Now I can install pretty much any digital projector and easily adjust A-lens to fit. :)
Nice ! " Modular madness " ! ;D
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Notice anything different in this picture compared to the last one? The projector grew up. RS4500 installed. :)
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so nice!
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Since my HT is cooled by a zoned system and the thermostat was not located in my HT, when I closed off the room, the HT would get too cold, if air conditioning was turned on. So I installed a remote sensor in the HT room today. My thermostat for this zone already was designed for a remote sensor, so it was a simple matter of running two conductor wire, attach the sensor and make the connection at the thermostat. Today it was pretty cool out, so I did not need any cooling. Can't wait for it to warm up next week, so I can see how well this works.
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How's it working, Mike? I've wondered about the possible need for something like this. I guess it takes an average, so it'll will certainly affect the main zone.
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How's it working, Mike? I've wondered about the possible need for something like this. I guess it takes an average, so it'll will certainly affect the main zone.
It works very well for the HT, but when I am in the HT, I am not concerned with the other areas in the same zone. Usually those other areas are not occupied, when we are watching a movie. If they are occupied, I can just set it up to use the average of the two sensors or just use the sensor outside of the theater.
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I replaced the AT screen fabric in my room and did not post about it in my thread, so updating the thread. I installed the Screen Acoustic V6 fabric on my curved power masking frame. The install went even better than expected. The surface is perfect without a single blemish. Once the grip rails were installed the fabric installation was super easy and tensioned very well. Grip rails were not had to install, but took a little bit of time, since I mechanically attached (screw every 3") since my frame is curved. I then applied a bead of glue on the back side of the grip rail. Probably overkill, but being an engineer, I usually do overkill. :)
Picture of screen wall with masking system and fabric removed.
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Fabric installed, without masking system in place.
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Masking system back in place, so that screen is 100% completed.
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nvm im dumb
looks great!
is the .8 gain bright enough?
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nvm im dumb
looks great!
is the .8 gain bright enough?
V6 is 0.84 gain. Actually about a 12% increase in brightness from my old screen. I went from 0.75 to 0.84 gain.
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Hey Mike,
Mark Haskins here again moved over to the new forum. What a powerhouse of a HT! Built for performance is right! Was it difficult to dial in the MiniDSPs? I'll be in touch about a possible projector upgrade for my mancave.
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Hey Mike,
Mark Haskins here again moved over to the new forum. What a powerhouse of a HT! Built for performance is right! Was it difficult to dial in the MiniDSPs? I'll be in touch about a possible projector upgrade for my mancave.
Welcome. No was not hard, but I sure do not like Phoenix connectors and with two 10x10HD's I have a lot of connections. :).
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Latest change to my HT system. I sold my RS4500, purchased an RS640 and I replaced my six channel Rane amp with three Crown XLS-1002 amps. These three amps feed my TD12M's and TPL-150H tweeters on my active LCR's.
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A few weeks ago I purchased four more Crown XLS-1002 amps. Now my 3-way active LCR's and all of my surround speakers are powered by these Crown amps. Very happy with my system. Only thing that I could think of to improve my system would be a projector that performs HDR better. :)
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When I installed my Unistrut rail system for mounting my projector and A-lens, I ran the pieces long on the ceiling with the intention of adding sound panels for the reflection point on the ceiling. I came up with a way to secure the ceiling panels to the nistrut that is simple and cheap to do. I cut small wooden blocks that can slide into the unistrut and painted them black. I will screw the sound panels to the wood blocks. Cheap, simple solution. I have made the blocks and painted them. Hopefully I find time to install this weekend. :)
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Pictures of the two panels I finally added on the ceiling. The panel has 2" of mineral wool and 3" gap between mineral wool and the ceiling. Panels are 3" deep and 25.5" x 49.5".
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Nice Mike ! I bet it sounds awesome in there.
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Added a couple amps to my system. Replacing some old amps. Added another Crown Drivecore XLS1002. Have a total of 8 of them. Five of these power my front three 3-way DIY active LCR's. The other 3 are powering surrounds and atmos speakers. I replaced another amp with a Behringer NX6000D. The NX6000D is now powering my 8.0CF sealed 18" RE XXX. I also added an AC Infinity Aircom T8. The Aircom T8 is a nifty little device that offers Programed or smart cooling for AV equipment. New product line we started carrying.
https://www.acinfinity.com/ (https://www.acinfinity.com/)
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Added a couple amps to my system. Replacing some old amps. Added another Crown Drivecore XLS1002. Have a total of 8 of them. Five of these power my front three 3-way DIY active LCR's. The other 3 are powering surrounds and atmos speakers. I replaced another amp with a Behringer NX6000D. The NX6000D is now powering my 8.0CF sealed 18" RE XXX. I also added an AC Infinity Aircom T8. The Aircom T8 is a nifty little device that offers Programed or smart cooling for AV equipment. New product line we started carrying.
https://www.acinfinity.com/ (https://www.acinfinity.com/)
The Aircom T8 looks like a great cooling solution. Pretty quiet ?
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How much weight can you put on that T8 unit ? Is it plastic or metal ?
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How much weight can you put on that T8 unit ? Is it plastic or metal ?
It is metal. You can equipment on top of it, but only 30 pounds. Nice looking unit. What I like about it is the rack space it saves me and the clean look. I used to keep four rack spaces above my prepro, for good cooling. Now I only use one rack space.
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I bought one also a few months ago for my denon reciever that gets hot . i love the auto feature where can set it to come on at certain temp and it fits perfectly on top of it looks very clean like it goes with it.
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Technically this post is not about my dedicated room, but I am slowly updating my family room setup to 4K and decided to also add atmos speakers. Family room has a 7.2 sound system using an Onkyo RZ1100 AVR and RBH SI-760 and RBH 661-SE speakers. Today I ordered four RBH SI-615 speakers for atmos.
https://rbhsound.com/si615.php (https://rbhsound.com/si615.php)
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Very nice! let me know how you like those atmos speakers once you have them up and running. I have been looking at those, the rsl ceiling speakers, and the beale street audio ceiling speakers. What are you using for a display in living room?
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I have a small 55" 4K TV and a 127" diagonal electric Stewart FireHawk screen. Currently the projector is a JVC RS57, but will move my RS640 into this room, when I get the RS3000. The speakers are arriving tomorrow, but probably will not get to start on this project until the following weekend.
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Finished the install of the atmos speakers in the family room setup. The Onkyo RZ1100 has 9 channels built in, so needed to add two channels for the 7.1.4 system. I have had an old Kenwood KM-X1 amp sitting around unused for many years. Finally put it to work. Using two channels for the rear surrounds. 130 watts per channel with two channels driven at 8 ohm, so plenty of power for rear surrounds.
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Finished the install of the atmos speakers in the family room setup. The Onkyo RZ1100 has 9 channels built in, so needed to add two channels for the 7.1.4 system. I have had an old Kenwood KM-X1 amp sitting around unused for many years. Finally put it to work. Using two channels for the rear surrounds. 130 watts per channel with two channels driven at 8 ohm, so plenty of power for rear surrounds.
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So whats the verdict? how does it sound with the atmos setup now?
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So whats the verdict? how does it sound with the atmos setup now?
Sounds good. Really expands the sound field. I really liked atmos in my dedicated room, so I knew that I would like it in my media room.
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Mike, how tall is the ceiling in that room ?and is it same height ceiling as in your dedicated theater room? I was just wondering if it made big difference on how tall the ceiling was and effect of atmos speakers whether the taller ceiling was better/worse or same for expanding the sound field and the atmos effects how they compare.
I like those windows in your familyroom, you must have a pretty bright room during the daytime .
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Mike, how tall is the ceiling in that room ?and is it same height ceiling as in your dedicated theater room? I was just wondering if it made big difference on how tall the ceiling was and effect of atmos speakers whether the taller ceiling was better/worse or same for expanding the sound field and the atmos effects how they compare.
I like those windows in your familyroom, you must have a pretty bright room during the daytime .
17' high ceiling in family room. 8' ceiling in dedicated room. Even though the dedicated room is much smaller, the sound is much better. But the dedicated room is treated and the family room is not. That window you see is 12.5' high. Two of them on theater end. On library end, I have 8' x 16' of glass, two 2' x 6' windows and french doors with 15 lites. Along with a transom above the french doors. In other words, this room is nearly hopeless for front projection during the day. So projector is only used at night time in this room.
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nice. i wish i had easier access to above my ceiling in my family room. It was a garage converted into family room and last time someone crawled across the joist my drywall cracked and unfortunately the access point is at opposite end of room from upstairs crawlspace. so ive been limited to 5.1 for now untill i fig out way run wires without too much damage. ya i imagine all those windows probably dont help with the sound in room either. speakers look nice though - enjoy
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nice. i wish i had easier access to above my ceiling in my family room. It was a garage converted into family room and last time someone crawled across the joist my drywall cracked and unfortunately the access point is at opposite end of room from upstairs crawlspace. so ive been limited to 5.1 for now untill i fig out way run wires without too much damage. ya i imagine all those windows probably dont help with the sound in room either. speakers look nice though - enjoy
It really makes me appreciate my dedicated room. Wife and I watched Clock in the Wall last night. Sound and picture in dedicated room was very good.
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My screen is down about 22" from the ceiling so ceiling reflections off my flat black ceiling have never really been an issue, but have started covering the front part with velvet panels. Used some 3/4" x 1" pine I ripped down to make some frames. Then stapled Triple Black Velvet to the frames and screwed to the trusses above the drywall. Have one more to build that will fit around my wife's short throw and the lighting. My wife's short throw is my biggest compromise in my theater. She uses it for yoga. The other items you can see in the picture are my atmos speakers and a sound absorption panel. Turned the three 65 watt floods up to 100% to take the picture.
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I while back, I built the last velvet panel for the ceiling. I never posted the picture. Compare to the picture in the post above and you will see the difference. :)
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Nice !
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I have been thinking about ways to increase my throw in my room, since I am at a shorter throw than I should be with my A-lens. So I bought a cheap mirror for testing proof of concept in my room. I would need to buy a first surface mirror, but by testing, I can figure out exactly what size mirror I need to buy.
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I have been thinking about ways to increase my throw in my room, since I am at a shorter throw than I should be with my A-lens. So I bought a cheap mirror for testing proof of concept in my room.
Can't cut a hole in the back wall ? :-X
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Can't cut a hole in the back wall ? :-X
I could, but a super amount of trouble, since it is exterior wall with brick on the house. Would not look very good, since it would have to be just a bump out for the projector. My theater room is on the second floor.
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Also found my RS3000 is a lot quieter, now that it is away from the wall. I thought the projector was in low lamp and yet it was in high.
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Also found my RS3000 is a lot quieter, now that it is away from the wall. I thought the projector was in low lamp and yet it was in high.
Which goes to show it can be the acoustics of the surfaces surrounding the projector ( and how close the projector is to those surfaces ) that cause a projector to sound loud for one person, and not another !
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Yep. The back of my projector is now firing toward an absorption panel.
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The test mirror worked very well, so I have purchased a first surface mirror for my room. The mirror arrived yesterday, so I switched the mirrors out. I placed little stick on rubber bumpers on the shelf the mirror sits in, to lock it in place, yet I can easily remove for cleaning if needed. Though the plan is to just blow off any accumulated dust. With the longer throw, I am now able to consider other options for this room, like a flat masking screen and or a DCR lens.
A-lens is still in place, but since it is on a slide, it is out of the way. Currently just using lens memory, now that throw is longer.
Added
Pictures sure are deceiving. The speakers are 3" from the ceiling and the back of the projector is about 9" from the ceiling. Projector is about 2'-4" closer to me in this picture.
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That is clever - good way to overcome a short throw.
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Rather than replace my projector in my family room right now, I have decided to put in a 75" TV and add a DCR lens to my dedicated room. :)
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Received the DCR lens today. Removed the Prismasonic and installed the DCR. Pretty easy installation, but expected that, since it is a fixed in place lens. With the auto aspect ratio control of the Lumagen and the DCR, I do not have to do anything. When a 16:9 movie or show is playing, I automaticlly get 16:9 image and when a scope movie starts playing, it fills my 2.40 aspect ratio screen. Works pretty slick.
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I laugh every time I go to this section, because if this is your hobby, you are never done. :)
I am thinking about making a sub/subs change. Two of my six subs use 12" drivers. Pictures of the 12's below. The other four are 18's. The 12's are very nice 12's having strong motors, full copper sleeves and shorting rings. But I think I want to upgrade them to 18's like the rest of my subs. Have not decided on drivers yet, but have narrowed it down. Will be using 4.0CF sealed flat pack Baltic Birch boxes. Ordered the boxes today. Thinking about using Stereo Integrity HST-18 MKIII's for the driver. https://stereointegrity.com/product/hst18-18-subwoofer/ (https://stereointegrity.com/product/hst18-18-subwoofer/)
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Nice. Maybe we should change the name of this section to " Finished - Momentarily " ! ;D
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What kind of power will you be using to drive those 18's? In a sealed box with the high excursion, should be able to really push them.
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What kind of power will you be using to drive those 18's? In a sealed box with the high excursion, should be able to really push them.
Either a bridged Crown 2002 or a Behringer NU6000DSP. These drivers do very well in 4.0CF. I have an RE XXX split coil in 8.0CF. It is a low bass, high excursion monster. 54mm xmax each way. The HTS-18's have 38mm xmax. Other 18 I have at the back of the room is a Malstrom-X. I can't remember the excursion, but I think it is 33mm.
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The Ultimax UM18-22 driver looks pretty good, especially for the price. I have an open channel on one of my amps, so I ordered one UM18-22, which I received today. Still waiting on the 4.0CF sealed Baltic Birch flat pack. I ordered two flat packs, but no discount for ordering only two drivers, so decided to try one first and then decide if I want to get another one or move up to the SI HST 18.
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The Ultimax UM18-22 driver looks pretty good, especially for the price. I have an open channel on one of my amps, so I ordered one UM18-22, which I received today. Still waiting on the 4.0CF sealed Baltic Birch flat pack. I ordered two flat packs, but no discount for ordering only two drivers, so decided to try one first and then decide if I want to get another one or move up to the SI HST 18.
Very happy with my pair of UM18-22's. I went with the PE flat pack and I'm using an iNuke6000DSP to power them.
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Very happy with my pair of UM18-22's. I went with the PE flat pack and I'm using an iNuke6000DSP to power them.
I have one channel an NX6000D (NU6000D replacement) available. I also have an NU6000 sitting unused. Have MiniDSP10x10HD also available for EQ if I use the NU6000.
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I have one 4.0 CF box glued up. Ran the flush cut bit on it last night and then 3/8" roundover. Have run some test tones through the driver to loosen it up a little bit.
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New member of the family. Completed UM18-22 in 4.0 CF box. Next to it is an 18" Malstrom-X in 4.0 CF and next to the Maelstrom is an 18" RE-XXX in 8.0 CF. I still have another 4.0 CF box to build for a second UM18-22 behind the seats. Have 2 SI HT18's in the baffle wall.
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Started on second box today. Will need to pull another run of speaker wire from equipment room to theater. I think I will be done with subs in the HT for a while. Driver is arriving Monday.
Also this week I fan modded an NU6000 for my family room setup and am using it to power my two subs in my family room. Using a MiniDSP10x10HD for DSP on family room subs. One of the 12's from the theater room was used to replace a 10" sub in the family room. For auto powering off the NU6000 and another amp, I ordered a Lowell RPC-20-CD. It is a 20 amp triggered dual receptacle. My AVR 12 volt trigger is being used for control. Working nicely, no thumps when powering off.
https://www.lowellmfg.com/product/rpc-20-cd-remote-power-control/ (https://www.lowellmfg.com/product/rpc-20-cd-remote-power-control/)
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Front baffle glued on. Once dry, then on to flush cut and round over. :)
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Looking good. Mike, quick question. How much did you invest in all of the tools to build your own subwoofers? I assume the ROI is there in the long run, especially if you build more than one. Just curious.
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Looking good. Mike, quick question. How much did you invest in all of the tools to build your own subwoofers? I assume the ROI is there in the long run, especially if you build more than one. Just curious.
I used to be a commercial general contractor, years ago, so have had all of these tools for many years. Also have a large workshop with large tools. I built my LCR's and I have built a couple dozen subwoofers over the years.
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I used to be a commercial general contractor, years ago, so have had all of these tools for many years. Also have a large workshop with large tools. I built my LCR's and I have built a couple dozen subwoofers over the years.
Cheater ;) :D
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Second box ready for primer. I was not planning on building the second sub quite so quick, but when Parts Express dropped the price on the UM18-22 $50, I jumped on it. :)
This will give me nearly wall to wall subs in the back of the room.
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Second box ready for primer. I was not planning on building the second sub quite so quick, but when Parts Express dropped the price on the UM18-22 $50, I jumped on it. :)
This will give me nearly wall to wall subs in the back of the room.
You can never have too much bass :)
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You can never have too much bass :)
Will now have nine 18's in my room. :)
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You can never have too much bass :)
Obviously you have never been to Burning Man. I've felt my teeth rattle almost out of my head at 3am in bed from vibrations coming through the ground ( and thru an air mattress ) from bass coming from " mutant vehicles " driving by. :-X:-[:-X:-[:o
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2nd UM18-22 just arrived and box is almost ready. Primed and sanded. Just need finish coats applied. Will do that tonight.
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Looking good. Mike, quick question. How much did you invest in all of the tools to build your own subwoofers? I assume the ROI is there in the long run, especially if you build more than one. Just curious.
you really dont need much as far as tools....have HD cut the wood...get some cheap clamps from Harbor freight...and a router....
my 4 subs blow away anything you can buy for a HUGE fraction of the price...I think for my 4 18"'s WITH amps....i was all in for 1400$ cant even get 1 commercial 18" sub for that
go for it!
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You do want a DSP amp or a miniDSP, so that you can apply PEQ to the signal chain and if ported, protect the driver with a high pass filter.
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Finished my second sub last week and pulled an additional run of speaker wire from mechanical room to HT. All six subs in place now. I still have not calibrated the subs, but I definitely have more low end bass, replacing the two 12's with 18's. :)
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Spent Saturday adding additional connections to my MiniDSP 10x10HD and recalibrating my subs. Have everything dialed in pretty good right now. :)
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Now that I am not using a horizontal expansion lens, switched to DCR, I need to switch out my screen. My current screen is a 116" diagonal 2.40 Prismasonic curved screen with powered side masking. Screen has DreamScreen V6 fabric.
Since I want/need:
Flat scope screen
Woven AT fabric
Powered horizontal masking
I am going with Screen Excellence L-110 with upgraded motor and IR control. This will get me programed intermediate stops. http://www.seymourscreenexcellence.com/trim.php (http://www.seymourscreenexcellence.com/trim.php)
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The TRIM screen is great !
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I am going with Screen Excellence L-110 with upgraded motor and IR control. This will get me programed intermediate stops. http://www.seymourscreenexcellence.com/trim.php (http://www.seymourscreenexcellence.com/trim.php)
In all the videos I've seen the masking fabric appear to be a little too transparent for my liking. Since most of these videos are shot in a very bright environment (eg trade show), will be interested to hear how satisfied you are with it? I know there will be "black" bars from the image but even a small amount of visible overscan would drive me nuts!
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In all the videos I've seen the masking fabric appear to be a little too transparent for my liking. Since most of these videos are shot in a very bright environment (eg trade show), will be interested to hear how satisfied you are with it? I know there will be "black" bars from the image but even a small amount of visible overscan would drive me nuts!
It can't be worse than the black masking on my Stewart electric screens !
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In all the videos I've seen the masking fabric appear to be a little too transparent for my liking. Since most of these videos are shot in a very bright environment (eg trade show), will be interested to hear how satisfied you are with it? I know there will be "black" bars from the image but even a small amount of visible overscan would drive me nuts!
I have been using a powered masking screen for many years. Problem is my current screen is curved and now I need a flat screen. I use a scope screen and an A-lens. The only thing I am masking is unused screen. So it looks black to me. :)
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Looking at new atmos speakers, because mine are too big to be able to aim them correctly, due to my 8' ceiling. I currently have JBL 8340's on my ceiling. I looked at the JBL Control 328C, but decided if I was going to redo my atmos speakers, I was going to go with something that I could aim.
So I am going to use ceiling mount brackets on four Volt 8's. I found a bracket that is heavy duty enough to work. Looks like the only weak link on the speaker bracket is the small surface where it connects to the ceiling. I will need to add a large washer to spread the load out on the drywall, otherwise it will crush the drywall over time. Have a truss I can hit for the front two speakers and will have to add wood blocking for the back two.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VF3CG4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VF3CG4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Volt 8: https://www.diysoundgroup.com/home-theater-speaker-kits/home-theater-series/volt/volt-8-ported-combo.html (https://www.diysoundgroup.com/home-theater-speaker-kits/home-theater-series/volt/volt-8-ported-combo.html)
Will mount the Volt 8's sideways. That way they only stick down about 12". That leaves me with about 7' of head clearance under the front two speakers.
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Those are great looking speaker mounts. It says -
" Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock. "
You have another source ? Those look very useful.
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Those are great looking speaker mounts. It says -
" Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock. "
You have another source ? Those look very useful.
No. I looked and did not see them available anywhere else. I bought the last ones. When I went to make the link, I noticed Amazon said they might not be available again. :(
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Have two of my four Volt 8 Atmos speakers finished. Will be mounting them sideways off my ceiling using these ceiling brackets. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VF3CG4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VF3CG4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
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Have the back two Volt 8's built. I made my own ceiling brackets for these out of 1/4" thick x 1.5" wide steel bar stock. Due to working overhead with the weight, will install driver after ceiling mounting. Have the front two mounted. Look small after having JBL 8340's on the ceiling. :)
Have to do some ceiling touch up, where the JBL 8340's were attached to the ceiling. Had three 65 watt floods on full and still had to use flash so that you could even see the Volt 8.
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Now that my daughter's wedding is over, I have a little more time. Went up into the attic Sunday and installed some blocking for the rear atmos speakers. As soon as I rework the back wall black velvet curtains, I will get some pictures. I threw in an atmos demo disc to test the speakers. The atmos effect is very uniform, say when the helicopter circles overhead in the demo.
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Rear surrounds and curtains back in place for rear surrounds.
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Mounting side surrounds in front of velvet curtains.
Have been thinking about this. I have floor to ceiling black velvet curtains on my side walls. Currently using wall mounted JBL 8340's (wood box, not 8340A's) with curtains stopping at each side of the speaker. This leaves me with 20" wide strip of wall that is not covered with velvet. Right now I have the curtains angled in some at the top. You can see this in the post above. Since my room is narrow, I am thinking about going with a smaller speaker. Thinking about using the sealed Volt-10 Atmos flat pack. Says it has an f3 of 75hz, so that would work fine crossed over to my subs at 80hz.
Anyway, I have seen people cut holes in their curtains and I have seen people fasten through their curtains. Either way, you are damaging the curtains, especially if you cut a hole in them and could not very easily use them again in another application. So here is my thought. I am going to attach a 1" x1" board on the wall horizontally at the bottom of the surround. Right above this ledge, I will fasten a 1.5" wide x 1/8" thick piece of mild steel bar stock, horizontally. Near where the top of the surround will hit the wall, I will fasten another 1.5" wide x 1/8" thick piece of mild steel bar stock, horizontally. On the back of the speaker, I will fasten four or six thin Neodymium magnets matching the lower and upper steel bar stock. The black velvet curtains will hide everything on the wall. I will place the speaker on the 1" x 1" ledge with the curtain sandwiched in between and tilt up, letting the magnets hold the speaker tight to the wall. Damage to the wall will just be six screw holes. Damage to the curtain will be zero.
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Left surround speaker mounted with new system using magnets and having curtain go behind the speaker. Right surround is how I used to have them mounted with curtain stopping on each side of the speaker. The current surrounds are JBL 8340's which are 19"W x 21.5" H x 12"D and weigh 50lbs. They are large surrounds. The Volt-10's will be 14"W x 14"H x 7"D. The Volt-10's will also be half the weight. Both speakers use 10" pro woofers and compression drivers.
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Those are pointed right at your ear, are they not ? :-X
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They are close to the side seat, but not as close as they appear. About 3' away from the nearest head. That is one reason I am going with smaller speakers. Also they work great for the main seat, which is most of the usage. :)
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Must be the camera angle!
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Must be the camera angle!
Yes, took picture from main seat, so you can't see how much past the seat the speaker is.
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More pictures. Next up is replacement of side surrounds, then screen and maybe adding rear surrounds.
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Left surround speaker mounted with new system using magnets and having curtain go behind the speaker. Right surround is how I used to have them mounted with curtain stopping on each side of the speaker. The current surrounds are JBL 8340's which are 19"W x 21.5" H x 12"D and weigh 50lbs. They are large surrounds. The Volt-10's will be 14"W x 14"H x 7"D. The Volt-10's will also be half the weight. Both speakers use 10" pro woofers and compression drivers.
Have replaced my JBL 8340's with smaller Volt-10 surrounds. The Volt-10 uses the same size 10" midwoofer and a 1" compression driver. Specs list an f3 of 75hz and it meets that spec in my room, so using 80hz crossover point.
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Nice Mike. How does it sound ?
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Nice Mike. How does it sound ?
Sound quality is fine. Does not go quite as low as the 8340's, but does not need to. Just wanted them to be able to get to 80hz. Plenty of impact and SPL. I need to do a little more playing around with the, but have been working on other changes as well. :)
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The other changes. Have added a DBX RackDrive PA2 for EQ of my right and left mains that are 3-way active. I like how this device works, much better than the MiniDSP 10x10HD. Also XLR are much easier to work with and more reliable than Phoenix connections
With the 10x10HD, to make any change, I had to go to the equipment room and connect computer by USB to the 10x10HD. With the DBX PA2, it is on my network and can make adjustment anywhere in my house. The DBX PA2 also has RTA, so I picked up a 75' XLR cable to run to my room and connect up the measurement mic. Makes it very easy to see the effect of crossover changes and filters. Picked up a second DBX PA2 for my center channel and my get a third for my subs.
https://dbxpro.com/en/products/driverack-pa2 (https://dbxpro.com/en/products/driverack-pa2)
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My last two Volt-10's arrive today. These are going to be used for rear surrounds, to take my system to 7.1.4. I already have installed another Crown amp in my rack to power these speakers. Still waiting on my new screen. Will take pictures, once these are built and installed.
Added
Also since I have made so many changes, I have updated the first post.
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My last two Volt-10's arrive today. These are going to be used for rear surrounds, to take my system to 7.1.4. I already have installed another Crown amp in my rack to power these speakers. Still waiting on my new screen. Will take pictures, once these are built and installed.
Added
Also since I have made so many changes, I have updated the first post.
Nice Mike! 8) I may have missed it but, what screen are you going with? I'm guessing the V7 material?
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Nice Mike! 8) I may have missed it but, what screen are you going with? I'm guessing the V7 material?
We don't have the V7 material yet. Soon, but not yet !
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Nice Mike! 8) I may have missed it but, what screen are you going with? I'm guessing the V7 material?
Currently have V6. New screen will be Screen Excellence Trim L-110. 2.40 masking screen with Neo fabric. Demo screen, so have to keep it OEM.
http://www.seymourscreenexcellence.com/trim.php (http://www.seymourscreenexcellence.com/trim.php)
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Currently have V6. New screen will be Screen Excellence Trim L-110. 2.40 masking screen with Neo fabric. Demo screen, so have to keep it OEM.
http://www.seymourscreenexcellence.com/trim.php (http://www.seymourscreenexcellence.com/trim.php)
Very nice. I remember seeing the Neo material a few years ago at Axpona before it was released. It was showing on a 12ft wide screen with the JVC RS4500. Great picture! 8)
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Very nice. I remember seeing the Neo material a few years ago at Axpona before it was released. It was showing on a 12ft wide screen with the JVC RS4500. Great picture! 8)
If you liked the Neo, you would definitely like the V6 and V7.
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Yesterday afternoon my last two Volt-10 kits for rear surrounds were delivered. Finished them up a few minutes ago and mounted them. Still have to run the speaker wire from mechanical room below. I have a small angle iron and flat bar steel fastened to the front of my sound panels, that are behind the curtains. Speakers sit on the angle and magnets hold the speaker at the top to the flat bar and at the bottom to the angle iron. This way I am free to move the speakers closer together or farther apart. Rear surrounds are about 3' away from the person sitting in front of the speakers, so not as close as it looks in the pictures. :)
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Ran the wiring in the wall down to the rack in the mechanical room and have everything up and running. :)
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Found out today what the delay is on my new screen. Parts problem. Seymour/Screen Excellence is out of the RQ control cards for the Trim masking system and due to Covid 19, it is taking a lot longer than normal to get more. They are hoping to have new cards by middle of August. I ordered this screen in March. Thought I would get it in June, due to them having to build seven others before mine. Glad I was not needing this screen for a new room without any screen. :)
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Found out today what the delay is on my new screen. Parts problem. Seymour/Screen Excellence is out of the RQ control cards for the Trim masking system and due to Covid 19, it is taking a lot longer than normal to get more. They are hoping to have new cards by middle of August. I ordered this screen in March. Thought I would get it in June, due to them having to build seven others before mine. Glad I was not needing this screen for a new room without any screen. :)
Bummer! :o Good to know you still have a screen to use though. :)
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If I didn't I would have already pulled out my 106" manual pull down High Power screen. It would fit between my left and right speaker. Would have to turn off the center and run phantom. Probably would have to turn off the two 18" subs in the baffle wall also. But at least I would have a picture. :)
I have been talking to my daughter, she just got married and bought a house. I have enough extra stuff laying around to give them an HT. Have sitting around, a couple projectors, two screens, six identical speakers, a couple AVR's and several subwoofers and several amps. Would need to build a box for a subwoofer. But they would not have to buy anything.
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I added a UPS in the theater room. Mainly for the projector, but I did place the Harmony hub on the UPS also. I plugged the seats into the surge side of the UPS. I was concerned if the unit would make much if any noise, but it is pretty much silent. With the display turned off, you don't even know it is there.
https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/pfc-sinewave/cp1500pfclcd/ (https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/pfc-sinewave/cp1500pfclcd/)
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Hi Mike,
Remember coming to my home in Brentwood, TN with Kris Deering about this time last year, late August? I have an RS3000 and Panamorph DCR lens also.
I'm interested in your "Custom unistrut mounting system for projector and A-lens".
Photos? Source? How could I get one?
Thanks,
Chis Cargen
Equipment
JVC RS4500 (sold RS4500) Now using RS3000
Panamorph DCR lens and Lumagen
Custom unistrut mounting system for projector and A-lens. Allows complete flexibility for projector and lens placement.
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Just need two pieces of unistrut, lag bolts and washers to attach the unistrut to the joists and a Chief CMS390. You will also need a couple bolts and spring nuts to fasten the CMS390 to the unistrut. The center to center spacing for the unistrut is spaced 16" center to center.
Unistrut: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Superstrut-1-5-8-in-x-1-5-8-in-Gold-Galvanized-Half-Slot-Channel-Strut/1000182121 (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Superstrut-1-5-8-in-x-1-5-8-in-Gold-Galvanized-Half-Slot-Channel-Strut/1000182121)
Lag bolts: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8-in-x-3-in-Silver-Zinc-Plated-Hex-Head-Interior-Lag-Screw/1000381807 (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8-in-x-3-in-Silver-Zinc-Plated-Hex-Head-Interior-Lag-Screw/1000381807)
3/8" washers: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8-in-Zinc-Plated-Standard-SAE-Flat-Washer/3058561 (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8-in-Zinc-Plated-Standard-SAE-Flat-Washer/3058561)
Spring nuts: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Superstrut-3-8-in-Straight-Strut-Nut/3284278 (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Superstrut-3-8-in-Straight-Strut-Nut/3284278) (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Superstrut-1-4-in-Spring-Strut-Nut/50182239)
You will need two 3/8" x 1" hex head bolts, flat washer, lock washer and nut to attache the CMS390 to the unistrut.
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I like that setup Mike !
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Hi Mike
Can you share some of your build of your baffle wall?
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Hi Mike
Can you share some of your build of your baffle wall?
I have a thread on the other forum and it had several pictures, but it looks like the forum change wiped them out. :( I used 2x4's to build the wall, but double and tripled the studs, so that it is very stiff. Also have two beams behind the studs to stiffen everything up. The right and left main are angled so that speakers are aimed at main listening position. Studs are covered with 3/4" MDF. Everything is screwed together, no nails used. I did not want squeaks or rattles. I have the LCR';s and two 18" subs in the baffle wall. Speakers and subs in the baffle wall are sealed, not ported.
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I have a thread on the other forum and it had several pictures, but it looks like the forum change wiped them out. :( I used 2x4's to build the wall, but double and tripled the studs, so that it is very stiff. Also have two beams behind the studs to stiffen everything up. The right and left main are angled so that speakers are aimed at main listening position. Studs are covered with 3/4" MDF. Everything is screwed together, no nails used. I did not want squeaks or rattles. I have the LCR';s and two 18" subs in the baffle wall. Speakers and subs in the baffle wall are sealed, not ported.
Thank you!
I am debating building one in the new build...its very permanent...what if i dont build it perfectly?
I MAY just stuff the cavity behind the screen w insulation...and skip the baffle part...I dont know...decisions lol
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Thank you!
I am debating building one in the new build...its very permanent...what if i dont build it perfectly?
I MAY just stuff the cavity behind the screen w insulation...and skip the baffle part...I dont know...decisions lol
With baffle wall you want speakers flush and no gap between the opening and the speaker.
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With baffle wall you want speakers flush and no gap between the opening and the speaker.
what did you use to make sure there was no gap there?
did you ever have a setup in your space without the Baffle? if so did you notice a big improvement from non baffle
sorry for all the Q's
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what did you use to make sure there was no gap there?
did you ever have a setup in your space without the Baffle? if so did you notice a big improvement from non baffle
sorry for all the Q's
Don't forget, I designed and built my LCR's. I did something different than I have seen anyone else do. Most people try to cut a tight opening and then fill the gap. What I did that was different, the front baffle is made with an inner baffle of MDO plywood with a second layer of MDF. The MDF layer was cut 3" bigger than the out to out size of the speaker box. That gave me a flange all around the box, that was used to secure the box to the framing of the baffle wall.
On each side of the opening in the framing for the speakers, I have four studs and those studs are only 60" in length, fit between two wood beams. This makes the baffle wall very stiff and rigid. After the three speaker boxes and two subwoofer boxes were placed in the baffle wall framing, I just filled in the space between and above and below the speakers and subs with 3/4" MDF. I also stuffed the cavity with fiberglass insulation, though with as big as the speakers and subs are, there was not a lot of open cavity.
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thank you! im on the fence....kind of like soundproofing...im afraid if one thing isnt perfect it can all be for naught
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My new screen is scheduled to be delivered this Thursday. Ordered in March, so it has been a long wait. Hopefully it happens Thursday. :)
As a reminder, I ordered the Screen Excellence Trim L-110.
http://www.seymourscreenexcellence.com/trim.php (http://www.seymourscreenexcellence.com/trim.php)
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Thank you!
I am debating building one in the new build...its very permanent...what if i dont build it perfectly?
I MAY just stuff the cavity behind the screen w insulation...and skip the baffle part...I dont know...decisions lol
For what it’s worth, I hung pink fluffy (well, technically it was yellow because a friend of mine does commercial insulation) behind my false wall and didn’t see any measurable improvement in either the time or frequency domain using REW. My room was also very susceptible to slap echo but this required traps in the ceiling to side wall corners. Also, don’t “stuff” because it loses its properties when compressed. I made sacks using leftover GOM material and then hung the sacks in the open cavities between the subs and speakers (note: mains and additional insulation are not shown in this pic):
(https://i.imgur.com/UBntaPh.jpg)
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Masking system and screen have been pulled down. Need to remove the blocking and install new blocking, where needed for the new screen.
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New screen is getting close. I have to pull it down and install the black backing, hook up the electronics, Align projector with screen and program my universal remote. Trim L-110 2.37 masking screen.
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Lowered the upper curtain and have grills flush with the screen. Front looks very clean and neat in appearance.
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Mike...that looks great. How well does the masking work?
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Mike...that looks great. How well does the masking work?
Works great. I got dual motor control with stops for 2.37, 2.0, 1.85 and 1.78. Works smoothly and pretty quick.
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Awesome. I have that too...manually :)
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Nice! I’m def making AT masking this time around with magnets
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Looks good Mike.
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Now that the Lumagen has the improved upscaling and sharpening feature added, sending source direct to the Lumagen is now important to me. I have this for disc (Oppo 203), though I rarely watch a disc that is not 4K, but I need it for streaming. Roku is what I had been using, but Roku upscales everything, unless you manually go in and change it each time you want to watch anything that was 1080P content. That would suck to do each time.
So I ordered the Nvidia Shield Pro with FLIRC. Will add the 3rd party APP called Refresh Rate and that will send correct frame rate and resolution for Netflix and VUDU. Read that it may still be a problem with Amazon. Need to set it up and confirm if working correctly. Should receive the Nvidia Shield Pro Thursday. Will be controlling it with a Harmony Elite.
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Making some changes to my sub system. Two of my subs were underpowered. I was only feeding 1,200 watts RMS to my REXXX-18 and 1,200 RMS to my Maelstrom-X 18" subs. I just ordered a new amp. A Crest Pro 9200. https://peaveycommercialaudio.com/product/pro-9200/ (https://peaveycommercialaudio.com/product/pro-9200/)
This new amp will be run bridged and can do 6,500 watts RMS. Will use the new amp with the REXXX-18. Then I will be able to put the Maelstrom-X 18 on an NU6000 by itself, so it should get around 2,000 watts RMS.
Already had 10 gauge wire run to several of my outlets, so only had to switch the breaker to a 30 amp and install a twist lock 30 amp outlet (Nema L5-30R). Then ordered the parts to make a 30 amp relay so that amp can be powered on by my sequencer.
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Cool! Looking forward to your impressions
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Cue Tim "The Toolman Taylor," more power, gruff, gruff, gruff, gruff.
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Cue Tim "The Toolman Taylor," more power, gruff, gruff, gruff, gruff.
I was seriously underpowering my REXXX-18 and my MaelstromX-18. Increasing power to the REXXX by a little over 5 times and nearly doubling power to the MaelstromX.
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Adding the new amp and increasing the wattage to one of my other subs, means reworking my calibration. Have spent a fair amount of time using PEQ and then running Audyssey APP. Pretty happy with my frequency response and curve. I have played with correction to 300, 500, 1,200, 2,000 and 5,000hz vs full range. My room does not have much hard surface exposed and along with absorption panels, floor to ceiling heavy velvet curtains, I did not hear an improvement when I reduced the room correction frequency range. So I am running correction full range.
Here is the left and right speaker curve from Audyssey App. My LCR's are capable of full range, but I run them as small with 40hz crossover to subs. Audyssey calibrated my LCR's flat to 20hz. I bumped up the response 3db at 30hz to give them that slope. Frequency response was smoother, before introducing the tilt. The tilt caused a few jaggies to appear.
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Going to retire my Marantz AV7703 from my HT room. Getting the Audio Control Maestro X7 to replace the AV7703. The 7703 will be going into my family room system.
https://www.audiocontrol.com/home-audio/immersive-av-preamp-processors/maestro-x7/ (https://www.audiocontrol.com/home-audio/immersive-av-preamp-processors/maestro-x7/)
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Wow that processor looks great! Congrats!
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Going to retire my Marantz AV7703 from my HT room. Getting the Audio Control Maestro X7 to replace the AV7703. The 7703 will be going into my family room system.
https://www.audiocontrol.com/home-audio/immersive-av-preamp-processors/maestro-x7/ (https://www.audiocontrol.com/home-audio/immersive-av-preamp-processors/maestro-x7/)
I looked up MSRP and saw the X9 first! 😳 Even so, I hope street price of the X7 is a little more forgiving?!
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I looked up MSRP and saw the X9 first! 😳 Even so, I hope street price of the X7 is a little more forgiving?!
AudioControl Maestro X7 & X9 9.1.6 Immersive AV Preamp Processor | AVS Forum
(https://www.avsforum.com/threads/audiocontrol-maestro-x7-x9-9-1-6-immersive-av-preamp-processor.3148982/)Looks like a great pre - pro, but out of my budget.
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Seven weeks wait to the day. Maestro X7 arrived today. Pulled the Marantz prepro out, and installed the Maestro X7 in my rack. Picture is with the rack ears on the unit. Everything is hooked up and have checked with test tone that everything wired correctly. Have to set levels on amps and then run Dirac live. Have already noticed, my noise floor is a lot lower with the X7 vs my 7703.
I was using two XLR outputs from Marantz to a MiniDSP10x10HD and from there five outputs to my sub amps. With DLBC, I added three more XLR cables for inputs to MniDSP. This is so that I can add PEQ (low end boost for sealed subs) before room correction. Plan to use Dirac Live Bass Control for each sub. 7.1.4 system with five subwoofer outputs, so that uses all sixteen channels.
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Like the sound I am getting right now. Just running standard Dirac curve. Seems to have plenty of bass. I can feel the impact of the bass in my seat, but it is not overbearing. Sound pans are excellent.
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Not looking forward to this next one. I have outgrown my rack. Ordered a new 43RU unit. Have 23 pieces of equipment to move over into new rack.
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Not looking forward to this next one. I have outgrown my rack. Ordered a new 43RU unit. Have 23 pieces of equipment to move over into new rack.
What a terrible burden to bear ;)
Look on the bright side...you can get all your cables rerouted and they'll be "neat" for a while :)
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Not looking forward to this next one. I have outgrown my rack. Ordered a new 43RU unit. Have 23 pieces of equipment to move over into new rack.
what rack are you coming from?
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Not looking forward to this next one. I have outgrown my rack. Ordered a new 43RU unit. Have 23 pieces of equipment to move over into new rack.
That's going to be a re-wiring job. ???
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What a terrible burden to bear ;)
Look on the bright side...you can get all your cables rerouted and they'll be "neat" for a while :)
That is the whole reason for the new rack. :)
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That's going to be a re-wiring job. ???
Yep, and I want to change the order in my rack, so going to require some new longer wires in some cases.
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what rack are you coming from?
Middle Atlantic QAR 35RU
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nice. any interest in selling it?
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nice. any interest in selling it?
I usually keep the boxes for everything, but did not for this rack. I never thought I would be replacing it.
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dang. I could use a real rack\
haha
B
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dang. I could use a real rack\
haha
B
Crimson makes great racks, for a great price. We sell them.
RC42U (crimsonav.com)
A (https://crimsonav.com/product-type/rack-enclosures-823/rc42u.html)lso, Sanus - 44U AV Rack Audio Component Rack and Home Theater (sanus.com) (https://www.sanus.com/en_CA/products/racks/cfr2144/)
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dang. I could use a real rack\
haha
B
That's what she said ;)
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Instead of replacing my Salamander, with one countertop, Salamander replaced the top with two tier shelving.
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1st post for me and interesting for me to come across your HT. How do you find the AudioControl Maestro X7 compared to your previous Marantz? It is probably too expensive for me but still ... interesting to know.
Our mains are quite similar, as LCRs I also use AE's TD12M (1 pcs, not MTM) + Beyma TPL 150H. Front subs are 4 x AE's PB 18H+, at rear wall 4 x AE' SPB 15. (PB 18H+ are the same as TD 18H+ but a dust cap replaces the phase plug.) Front wall is also similar, the LCRs are placed in "dog houses " with baffle width 86 cm, above and behind are combined corner chunks / limp membrane absorbers. Sealed boxes for the 2x2 subs next by goes from floor to ceiling. The room is a "sealed bunker" with all surfaces in thick concrete so I get a substantial room gain. Pressure gain rising about 9-10 dB from 20 to 10 Hz. -No need for extremely powerful amps ...
At the moment I am biding my time for a new AVR, probably it will be Denon X6700H but I might await news on the new Yamahas with Auro-3D. Auro-3Ds hook up with optimum 30 degree vertical angle for the surrounds is more suitable for me than an Atmos setup, as I have a low ceiling height of about 220 cm. 16 surrounds in place now, will probably be 17 pcs.
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Sorry, just now saw this. I liked the Maestro X7, but since I am 99.9% HT, not music, I decided to go back to my Marantz. As long as you are using the Audyssey APP, so that you can adjust the frequency response, after measuring, it is a great system. My TD18K drivers are lower mids in my LCR's. So each LCR is a 3-way with TD18H, two TD12M's and one TPL150H. I am kicking around ideas on subs. Thinking about changing my rear subs. Maybe a couple large sealed 24's. :)
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Ooh sealed 24’s would be awesome. I’m tempted to make a couple 21’s
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Better late than never as they say, Mike. I picked up a Denon X8500H some time ago, instead of the X6700H, seemed to offer some more versatility but lacks the handy pre-sets on the X6700H. I can live with that though and instead load an Atmos or Auro-3D speaker configuration with the phone app or USB and wait a minute. So far I'm happy with it. It's time to get started with some measurements with Audessy + REW.
For me the front + rear subs are "only" to get an even bass response across the room with a CABS / DBA sub positioning. As it is, with front + rear subs hooked up in phase, from left to right in the room, the response in REW is very even from 20-140 Hz, 92 +/-2 dB with about 1 watt to each sub array and without any EQ or time delays applied. There's a huge bump 40 Hz though as long as no time delay is applied to the rear subs. Still, the bump is not very noticeable as the T60 decay is around 430 ms at 40 Hz and around 230 ms for the rest of the range. From 20 Hz down to 10 Hz the response rises to about 100 dB with about 1 watt, due to room and pressure gain. (So, what I'm implying is that very large rear subs may not be necessary to smooth out the bass. Actually one might end up with a lower total SPL in the bass with front + rear subs but a better sounding bass.)
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Hello Mike, I have a question about your screen.
Are you still using the Screen Excellence or did you change?
I am looking to upgrade my AT screen and looking mostly at the DreamScreen.
Thanks!